Please keep videos like these coming. So far, I've had a hard time with getting my barndominium approved, and just this video has been more than helpful. Content like this is truly helpful.
I built my post frame residential home back in 2000 with minimal hassle from the bank. I had the inside scoop seeing I was the Building Official in the city next to my township and knew how to explain it to the bank. It is an unconventional home, strong and unique. It certainly pays to know proper construction practices. If I ever built another home, I would certainly call you to see if you were available, you are that good!
I want to build three different sheds, one is already set up. I am pleased to find all the ru-vid.comUgkxGZedDTcDfgD7fG_uU4esfx_EgxzlY2_1 plans and designs for the three sheds included in Ryan's shed plans And how very easy they all are to set up following the detailed instructions on the manual and DVDs. This is simply fantastic!
40 year carpenter here: (also, 21 year licensed contractor) Actually, it's simply stamped architectural plans that include the I.C.C. codes that will get a municipality & bank to approve the construction & financing, respectively, of a barndo.
@RR Buildings yes! Thought I'd be richer but you know.....lol EVERYONE out here buries their posts except me too haha You should see the look of confusion when I mention otherwise 😄
my 45X30X14 is sitting on 3 ply wet set brackets because i saw them on Kyle's channel. They are amazing. Super easy to set and everything aligned perfectly (within 1/8") using the techniques he shows in his videos. Framing the rest of the building was so easy with the foundation these provided, and Kyle's other tips In my region (northern Michigan) the engineer made me put a rebar basket in the concrete pier to eliminate the risk of it sheering below the end if the bracket bars. Building those baskets was a bit of a pain, but if i was starting over i would still use the brackets.
Paint is a deleterious layer that compromises the composite bond of rebar embedded within concrete. Concrete is alkaline and when steel is embedded into a material with a ph greater than 10, it forms a passive layer that protects it from corrosion. Introduction of chlorides and lowering the ph of concrete compromises the passive layer. Just info...
Perma Column, LLC outta Ossian, IN is the parent company. It’s local to me but still not far from you Kyle. Not sure where Midwest Perma Column falls in the scheme but it’s the same products…good stuff!
J-hooks shorten the embedment depth required to develop the anchorage of the rebar. Longer straight bars can be used to get the same structural result. It's just a manufacturer's decision which way they would want to go. Personally, I would put straight bars on the drawings if I were the engineer, as you'll get better edge distances from the rebar to the perimeter of the concrete. Better edge distances are great for ultimate strength, and for long term durability. It is also more forgiving against poor survey control (construction tolerance) As a professional structural engineer, I love your videos. You do great work.
this exactly. use hooks and can shorten bar length or use straight bars and they just need to be longer. both arrangements are perfectly fine with ACI 318
J- bolts are actually very weak compared to drive in anchors or rebar. It is old technology and much testing has since been done proving it. J bolts are smooth and they leave a smooth rounded path in the hardened concrete. When extreme up lift forces are applied, the round path in the hard concrete acts as a mandrel of sorts to straighten the j-bolt as it is pulled out of the concrete. Those brackets and others like them offer a FAR superior hold as compared to the old dinosaur j-bolts. Love your videos. Keep up the good work!
I bought my brackets, same thing probably made by the same company, 2x6 post. From Menards. About 60 bucks each. Well worth going this route over timber in the ground as Kyle has mentioned. Amazing product
As someone who really wishes I found your channel before I got talked into posts in the ground on my barndominium this would have been an invaluable video. I'm not in a big hurry as my building is only 5 years old, but I wonder how hard/expensive it would be to retrofit concrete and brackets into my barndo. The thought of the wood in the ground is always in the back of my mind and bugs me a bit.
Kyle, thanks for all of the awesome content. The generous information you share has been both helpful and educational. My wife and I would love to have you build our barndo one day. However, we live east of Lake Michigan so I may need to continue learning from you and build it myself. Yikes!!
Corrosion on rebar…part of the answer to the question is sufficient concrete coverage and soil conditions which your engineer no doubt understands very well. I personally would store the product indoors and have your engineer field review if corrosion is excessive.
Those brackets are definitely the way to go for longevity. A second best is a post protector. A post protector saves you from building a concrete foundation that will outlast the building.
Kyle love the channel. Was just watching diesel creek doing metal in his new shop build. He stated that it's all new to him so he was trying to follow what you show as it's the best he could find. Take care sir
Thanks for the information, Builder is not getting that this is such a better way. I am working to educate them to help me build my dream on my 40 Acres in Mississippi! Thank you for the information!
The best thing that should be on every wise individual's list is investing into different streams of income that don't depend on government to bring in money especially now
Absolutely loving your channel. So much great info. Hoping to see you build over a basement in the not to distant future. Hope to build my own home in the future which may even use ideas that I learned here.
Great product. Great structural improvement. I used wood in ground - treated wood and about 6 feet off the ground for a shed. One 6x6 post is starting to split. Carpenter bees love to drill holes as well. A good sealant may help prevent carpenter bee problems. The splitting post is not causing any structural problems now after about 15 years. It would be in better shape if it was not exposed to the elements. I have a 1 foot overhang but rain doesn't always come straight down. Reinforcing iron can rust. Rusted reinforcing bars when they rust, the rust expands and cracks concrete. If you are putting these into concrete you would want your post to have enough above ground so your vertical reinforcing on the bottom of these brackets doesn't get into any water. Concrete is porous. If you can prevent the rebar from water of any sort, you won't get any cracked concrete. You can get rust from condensation but a heated building will likely not have any condensation if it is within the building envelop. As a precaution, you might want to caulk the location where the top of the rebar or bottom of the bracket so the holes in the concrete don't accumulate water from condensation.
Good video as always! Hoping to start my POST FRAME building this summer! Not sure if I'm going to do a stem wall or piers, but I like the dry-set brackets that could allow me to move structural components if my design changes at last minute. Thanks Kyle!
@@rhinners3407 I just like the idea of getting all the wood up from grade. No need for a grade board. Obviously you have to really plan your openings but that’s easy enough. One thing I found when doing my building was my jurisdiction was stuck on the old school post must go in the ground theory. That forced me to have a company engineer my building. I used the same company that engineered the perma column brackets. They also do post frame structures. Really easy to work with and cost wasn’t really an issue. Big post frame projects almost always been from an engineer being involved. At the end of the day if it has a stamp on it, the jurisdiction can’t say much.
It's also possible to use threaded 3/4 inch or one inch rods buried in the concrete with a template to keep the rods vertical. Once the concrete hardens you simply thread a nut to the level you want for the elevation of your column, if it's going to be a steel column. You can then lower or raise the nuts on which you set your column set your column on top of the nuts on the threaded rods and tighten the top bolts so the column is exactly where you want it, up and down. If the rods need a small adjustment sideways, you can take a heavy sledge and hit a nut threaded on the rods. Getting the perfect East-West, North-South and perfect horizontal of a steel column is what you hope to achieve. Additionally, you don't want any twists in the column. The final action is to grout the bottom plate of the steel beam from the wall to the bottom plate.
I have been preaching on my RU-vid channel to never put wood in the ground. I pour concrete floors in pole barns and all I can think is this is gonna suck to replace all these rotted 6X6 with concrete poured around them. I give it 20 years and there will be a bunch of work fixing all these barns they are building in my area. I have told people about the permacollum but they won't spend the extra. I do deck foundations with a Sono tube and a Bigfoot funnel on the bottom. Simpson stone tie bracket for the 4X4. Nice video. Bondo 👊
When you say ICC (international code council) approved, most often, it’s a bit of a misnomer. Post frame buildings are generally not code compliant by the text of the code. Not because they violate code, but because the printed span tables don’t go large enough for most of the buildings and walls are taller than code tables specify. But the code allows an engineer to sign for stuff and essentially trump the code. Every single post frame building in my area requires an engineer. When you say ICC approved, I would guess that this product specifically has been tested by an engineer and an ES report generated and approved by ICC.
Thank you for the information body i watching you videos for long time im doing construction remodel but finally i have opportunity building one pole barn for one costumers i work for long time is my chance to start
Great video. You brought up codes. Can you do a video of when codes show up on your job site? Just generally interested in that process and what they look for in a post frame.
@ 05:20 concrete stores water, just like a battery stores electricity.also anything coming in contact with soil will get wet. The concrete pier sitting in the soil will soak up some of the soils moister. Eventually that coating will give way, and the coating will could expedite the corrosion process.i know the green coated highway metal brackets that have had their issues with longevity and premature failure. I'm not suggesting anything about the brackets themselves. They may serve their purpose. Just bring up a potential issue.
Awesome info as usual, attention to detail... The welding is robotic and is done as to relieve the numerous testings that need to be done when welded by humans, for liability, engineering standards, cost, etc.
Have you ever utilized the bolt down brackets on a standard slab? Also, do you foresee any issues making templates to set anchor bolts for the bolt down brackets like you would a red iron building?
Kyle. Another excellent information video. But, just rearrange the title I think it confuses some people until they watch it. How about: The Foundation Bracket: A key to financing a barn home. Love your videos man.
@@RRBuildings Hi Kyle. Sorry. wrong choice of words. Its not misleading I just felt if it was rearranged it would be more obvious. Nonetheless its all good!
Hey Kyle, Great info! Im currently in the process of working out the details and getting ready for site prep for my post frame based on your plans for the “perfect workshop”. Question iv had for a while now while watching you use these brackets was when your running your bolts into the concrete I notice you don’t clean the pile of dust off the top of your bracket from drilling the hole. From my trade in mechanics this would be considered not sufficient due to the separation of concrete powder in between the bolt head and the bracket which over time the power will vibrate out leaving a small gab and a loose bracket. Do I have this wrong or is this something I should be considering when I build my shop? Thanks!
Kyle, thank you so much for all the videos. For the sturdy wall was looking at icf, but would like a cheaper alternative for our archery shop. What concrete do you use for the sturdiwall for the stem wall? Pre poured, or forms poured on site etc.? Thank you so much for all the videos you put out.
The only problem I have with wet setting those brackets is that you are supposed to have rebar placed, and then pour and vibrate the concrete around them. If you shove the rebar in, the ridges will push the concrete away from the rebar. If you do it early enough the concrete may flow back and envelope the rebar. Or it may not and you don’t develop the embedment strength. Placing the brackets before the concrete and vibrating it will fully envelope the rebar. Rebar need full concrete contact for 40 diameters to exceed the rebar’s tensile strength. It’s just questionable if the brackets get that every time when wet setting.
I’ve been enjoying this debate for years. I think he should take a bracket, cut 3 of the rebar off and push it into a pier, no jiggling. Then test that, I have a feeling it’ll pull the pier out of the ground. I think people would be surprised at how durable even horribly constructed buildings are. I have a cabin (it’s actually a shack) that was built in 1972 with the materials at hand. It has lasted through 50 UP winters, it is not attached to the ground at any point. So I think this method is going to be okay.
You jiggle it as you push it in to let the aggregate move around the rebar. This is a non-issue. Also every j-bolt is pushed in the same way and they also aren't an issue.
@@Everythingisgoingtobealright I agree 100%. That rebar is never coming out, also I doubt there's ever gonna be a pulling force on the rebar after all gravity is pretty good at what it does.
If the concrete is at the correct moisture content, it's not a problem. Just use the correct technique. If it's still a worry, give them a little vibrate. I've never had an issue over 30 years as a builder.
@@court2379 J-bolt: the difference is in the name. The legs are bent, and the bend at the end provides a lot more retention strength. These are straight leg, dependent on the ridges in the rebar for retention. I wouldn't worry too much if using appropriate technique to install these after pour, but I'm also not sure the risk is worth the effort savings if there's a mistake. Vibrating is more idiot-proof, and as an occasional idiot I prefer that.
So does your finished concrete pad then go around the post and brackets on 3 sides? Could I keep brackets suspended 4” off pier for finish floor to go under or would that cause issues? Great videos btw.
I’m running into an issue with the engineering, I’m being told that in order to use these wet set bases you also have to build walls in between the posts and sheathe the walls to get the necessary sheer value equivalent to burying the posts. Is this true? And can anyone provide some insight on this?
Kyle Had a question not related to this video but on one video I watched ya'll stacked your sheetmetal and punched it to mark the holes? Did you pre drill after punching or just punch? I've always predrilled my walls but this intrigued me. Can you see the punch all the way through stack?
In one of the videos he explained that they are punched only they stack up to 5 sheets at a time. The drill bit shavings can scratch and rust the panel finish.
What are your thoughts on the new Perma-Column® precast concrete foundation system vs your standard column pour and wet set system? If using when can we expect to see videos? Also, what are your thoughts on the precast skirt boards?
I'm wanting to build my post frame using this method. But all the the builders in my area say they only put posts in the ground due to shear strength. I live in central Louisiana. Any suggestions or advise?
@@mikeerstad4828 sure build stick frame if you want… That’s not everyone’s cup of tea and there’s absolutely nothing wrong with pole barn homes with properly wrapped posts in the ground.
@@LittleMountainLife apparently you can't read. No need to bury the poles you can use any of the brackets like Kyle shows in his videos, either with Simpson, Hilti, etc. structural anchors or the rebar types placed into the concrete similar to the type of anchors used in traditional stick framing. By using the post brackets shown in the videos you do not give up structural or shear strength by burying and you eliminate the risks that are associated with burying them in the earth..But thanks for your comment
I would much rather see these hot dip galvanized. It also probably doesn't cost much different than polymer coatings as it takes time to spray all the angles. Molten metal flows around them automatically. Also the rebar should be bare metal. The coating debonds from the rebar over time and causes failures. The concrete prevents corrosion as long as it is covered by 2in, and sticks well to the bare metal. From what I understand epoxy coating rebar is not used in most places anymore because it was a failure.
Kyle, when do you decide on a triple 2x6, 2x8 or 4plys? I spanned 44ft with a triple 2x6 and wonder when someone would use a 4ply or 2x8’s. Thank you Sir
I have seen you take the wet set bracket and bend the rebar in previous videos. Is that a practice you use to endorse and got away from doing? Also, do you ever build residential barndominiums that use a cement pier system?
Do you ever build post frames that are over a basement. I couldn't find any in your videos. Would love to see how you do them. Got thoughts in mind how I want to build mine. Thought it best to ask the professional.
I'm not going to argue that brackets like these are a great option for folks building pole barn homes and barndominiums. And I know you hate posts in the ground, but its 2023 and there has been great options for protecting in ground posts for decades now. Implying that posts in the ground will rot to nothing in 30-40 years and are impossible to use when financing a build or working with local code is just incorrect. Properly wrap and treat your posts and there's no issue.
Kyle would you do a video on your columns? I've tried looking them up and I cannot find information on Ohio Timberland columns at all. Also what kind of engineering stamps overview do you need? I have a large building and planning next year.
Anyone have experience with these around the coast in sandier soil and harsher environments? I don't see a lot of post frame on the coast of NC that isn't the pylon vibrated to bedrock. Just curious if this would even fly around here.
Kyle, what is your opinion of post protector sleeves? I just finished my barndominium house and that's what I used. I can't see any way the wood could ever rot with those.
Could you let me know where you sourced the rockwool from your recent videos I am doing an icf structure in north central indiana so not all that far from you and would like to use it in my attic.
I bought a piece of property. I think I have enough $ to do a foundation. Once I have the foundation, I want to finance a kit that can be assembled on that foundation. The piece of information I'm missing is - who can tell me exactly how the foundation needs to be built?
I don't understand the connection between the foundation bracket and getting a loan to build my barn home? Why would the bank have any interest in what type of foundation I'm using? Wouldn't that job fall under an inspectors duties?
@@RRBuildings I'm assuming it would be best to do one post at a time atleast on each wall? My building is 20 years old and still solid best i can tell but i know it wont last forever. What type of temporary support setup would be ideal?
@@LittleMountainLife im a constructionql engineer in sweden…. We dont do that here last 200 years and our barns still stands. They used to do that back in the 1700s and those barns are gone. But your preassure treatment are perhaps more toxic since your environmental laws are after us 100 years
GSE's (Freddie and Fannie) are nothing more than insurance companies. They do have a set of standards for structures, uses, and size/dollar amounts, within which they will offer a quasi government guarantee on the underlying mortgage. I believe the meeting of that physical standard is what you are referring to for a residence that is "affixed to the ground" via its' foundation. Brackets look pretty healthy, good info.
