bit.ly/2OWmGCg - Check out Beckett Simonon's hand-made premium men's dress shoes at a reasonable price. Use code RMRS for an extra special discount! Do you know the difference between Oxfords and Brogues? Comment below! 👇 ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-fGo5V90LTnY.html - Click here to watch 10 Style Secrets To Steal From The Kingsmen's Dress Code.
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I’m English and (at least where I live) Oxford would generally refer to plain/cap toe oxfords and brogues refer to and brogue whether an Oxford or derby (pronounced “darby” like the city btw)
Great video, Antonio! The phrase should have been “Oxfords, without brogues.” A brogue is not a type of shoe, but rather a decorative element. The type of shoe is the derby, as is the oxford.
There is a scene in the film where the Harry character addresses the ‘oxfords not brogues’ term. He describes the oxford as ‘any shoe with *OPEN* lacing.’ It’s a deliberate error, surely.
@@Tmanaz480 I'm pretty sure that was deliberate on Fleming's part. In Casino Royale he orders quite an elaborate cocktail, and only later switches to vodka martinis. It fits Bond's character, as shaking would dilute the martini more, than stirring, which means getting less drunk, which makes sense for a secret agent. Also, he orders it with vodka and not gin, further emphasising that despite the appearances, Bond is a brute.
@@ModernGrimm shaking makes any cocktail makes it colder. as for dilution it would be so minimal if at all, to be essentially irrelevant. besides the fact that if the all the content is drank, you've consumed all the alcohol anyways. the whole point of the shaken *vodka* martini had another element. any smart Englishman would never shake a martini ( you don't have to say gin that's understood, but you do have to designate vodka. ). if you shake gin, it bruises. the bruising is actually air bubbles and ice crystals from shaking. but doing so is, "bad form" as they say.
@@josephcampese5347 I guess you're right with the amount of dilution not being a factor in getting less drunk or hangover, but I think we both made the same point, that despite the appearence, Bond is unsophisticated brute. He basically violates every rule you might have with a martini. Vodka has less taste than gin (even less, if it's cold), and shaking does dilute cocktails more than just stirring - as you've said, it might not be enough to stay hydrated, but it definitely alters the taste. Add the bruising you've mentioned, and the result is probably a drink that you chug down instantly, rather than properly tasting and sipping it. So while he still orders a cocktail that might seem elegant to the uninitiated (a fancy martini with a unique signature twist), in reality he's going for a quick and easy buzz.
This video has made shoe shopping infuriating! LMAO The number of companies that make dress shoes and do not know the distinction is ridiculous. Searching for oxfords on some of their sites will pull up a wide variety of open-laced shoes that are labeled as oxfords... smh
Dude u went way to deep into this movie quote... he clearly meant decorative brogueing on shoes is not for him or kingsmen. Which makes sense bcs they were historically nobility/white collar, born with a silver spoon up their ass, and would never have to wear peasant shoes with brogueing bcs they aren't farm hands walking through marshes. They r the elite, upper class. They r kingsmen. U could argue that eggsy could be badass and wear some oxfords with slight brogueing to rep his set. Lol
Historically gentlemen did all sorts of things outdoors, like hunting and horseback riding. Hunting boots would very often have broguing, as would other outdoor shoes. The "fashion rules" never really applied to actual aristocrats, but were adopted mostly by the middle classes trying to emulate what they thought the upper classes were like. A true gentleman is going to do whatever he likes doing, and is going to wear whatever is appropriate to the activity. Likewise speaking with a posh accent - actual aristocrats spoke like normal people, but the middle classes always tried to differentiate themselves from the poor. The same is true today. Billionaires wear what they want. They know they are not peasants, so they don't need to prove it. It's the middle class "striver" plebs trying to show that they are less plebeian than the other plebs. At least that's what's going on with "designer" clothes.
Yep RC nailed it. I truly believe it was meant to be a high standard dress code of a gentlemen. The video literally defines Brogues as more casual. Kingsman dont do casual when they are in official capacity
Brogues are worn by the gentry in the country and with Highland dress. They are also worn with some uniforms in the British Army, particularly Scottish ones. The word "brogue" simply means "shoe" in Irish. The word is also used in Scottish Gaelic. If you said "wingtip" to a Briton, they'd assume you were talking about an aeroplane.
It really annoys me when Antonio says Derby pronounced Derbee rather than Darbee, I do know it is the American pronunciation, but it still gets me😂. Keep up the videos Antonio!
I believe a black oxford with semi broguing on the cap toe is versatile. It can be worn with business attire and casual clothes, even jeans. For example the Allen Edmonds Fifth Avenue.
Superb presentation, very interested in this shoe manufacturer and I believe the meaning of “Oxford not brogues” Is simply. This is business not pleasure.
If you don’t understand what’s being said in the movie, you should go to London and work in the professional services sector for a while. You will get to know exactly what is meant: one does not wear brogues in town - ever. And contrary to what many Americans (I have noticed) tend to do: one does not EVER wear brown shoes to a dark suit.
He actually explains the differences in the movie. And if you actually pay attention you can catch what makes an Oxford and what makes a brogue. The line oxords not brogues was not meaning pick oxfords over brogues but rather that an Oxford style is not a brogue. Yes an Oxford can have brogue work on it but it doesn't replace the style. Watch the scene again there's a slight inflection to his voice when he says it in the scene describing the difference which helps you understand what he means. But you need to understand British accents to catch it. Every other scene doesn't have that inflection because it's more important that the line is a spy greeting than a description.
Thanks for always being engaged with your audience and responsive when you have the chance. Next year I'll be entering my 30's so been trying to upgrade my wardrobe little by little.I'm still gong to keep my short sleeve button downs as I feel they would be good for certain occasions like the beach, a theme park, or even just going out doing errands; however I will buy long sleeves for formal situations ones that are more for things like Church or job interviews...etc..the long ones I have now are more BBQ or different get togethers with friends or family. Sorry hope my comment isn't confusing. To clarify: 6 Dress shirt long sleeves casual,5 Dress shirts business related/Formal and around 5 short sleeve button downs.The numbers might be a little off but I'll post a short update next time that's more accurate:)
Personally I think short sleeve button-downs are great for casual wear. They go great with jeans or chinos in a variety of situations. Especially in hot weather, they are much more comfortable than long sleeves, even with the sleeves rolled up.
The first shoe is an Oxford, or cap toe, or cap toe Oxford; no brogueing. The second shoe is a Balmoral with brogueing; because the brogue is continuous, front to back, without a break. The third shoe is an Oxford with brogueing and beautiful. Brogueing is a decoration/ perforation added to the seam. Brogue is not a type of shoe, it's a feature. Just like leather interior is a feature.
I have bought 6 pairs of shoes from Beckett Simonon as well as belts, a brief case and a back pack. Very High quality leather goods that are worth the wait.
He probably should have said something like smooth leather Oxfords not brogues. Shoes intended to dress more formally. Kingsman don’t dress informally. Or if he wanted to discern between formal and less formal, the movie phrase maybe should have been “Oxfords not Derby’s.” And then display these two styles side-by-side when he selected the Oxford shoes for Eggsy to try. Then he could have said “and never broguing.” That way less informed people won’t be confused to know broguing are also on Oxfords. And of course on Derby’s. The movie caused unnecessary confusion.
It's pronounced "Blu-ker" not "Blu-cher." For reference, see the movie "Waterloo" starring Christopher Plummer. Other than that, great explanation on the subject.
I dont think he was saying "black, not white" i understood it as "black, not shiny". Does that make sense? He was saying to wear oxfords that arent brogues.
In my humble opinion, That third shoe isn’t actually a Oxford and a Brogue it’s just simply a brogue’d Oxford. Brogue is the perforations in a dress shoe and broguing is the act of making those perforations. That said the second shoe is actually called a brogue’d gibson shoe how they might call back in the old days or derby pronounced “Darby” in England. So basically any dress shoe can be a brogue just put the prefix of brogue’d before what style it is. But I do agree they probably should have said oxfords not derbies to be more accurate. It’s just that in the video I think it’s implied that Oxford means a clean straight cap plain Oxford and brogue would refer to anything less formal then that :)
Exactly. "Brogue" is not really a type of shoe, but rather a descriptor or trait that can apply to any kind of shoe. The presence or absence of broguing is a property or attribute of a shoe, like its color, rather than a style or type of shoe.
It's the equivalent of ordering a martini, shaken not stirred. You can do both. Oxfords but not in Brogue. As he was never casual. Its a typical manner of speech and phrase in the UK. As Brogues is plural its. not brogues. Without would be no. As in Tea no sugar. Although Tea not sugar would be o.k but. Less polite. The suit was his armour. Derby is pronounced Darrby. With an AR sound Not Er.
I hope Brock and John are watching this one! On their podcast they ask a series of questions at the end of the interview. One of them being Oxfords or Brogues? Lol
It is like comparing apples to oranges. They are a whole different piece of music. and they connote differently meaning and message. BTW Brogues rule. imho
Forty four years ago, the Navy gave me a pair of shoes that they called "oxfords." You call them "derbies," you must be wrong because the Navy never is.
the definitions in this video are way off, first of all harry means oxfords without broguing, but also any shoe with closed lacing (an oxford) WITH BROGUING is called a BROGUE as within the context of the shoe, the patterning takes precedence over the lacing, you cannot have brogued oxfords as INFACT they are named closed-lace brogues as no OXFORD shoe has broguing, those would be brogues
You know some people might label this as nitpicking :/ But I totally noticed this while watching it and it effectively *ruined* my enjoyment of the rest of the movie.
Its just a slur against the working class. Brogue comes from the Irish for shoe, and it was a shoe with a bit more frills to it. Ireland used to be el derado the land of gold and they were known for high design in everything. Its transformed over time but brogue still has its "working man" link that stinks like cow maneure to an English gentleman, they would strip off anything that had a hint of english/welsh/scottish if they can. If you want to go full saxon and be accepted as a colonial then oxfords or a plain shoe with no decoraction, leaving the bottom button on your waist coat open cause they had a fat pig king and you dont want to offend. But you can also just get a pair of really nice brogues, put them with a nice tweed suit, and button up the waistcoat fully, cause I am not an English toff and have no desire to be one. All that said even the royals wear wing tip brogues, harry got spotted wearing a pair he wears so often a hole was in the sole, and he wore them to a wedding. This would be unacceptable to a london english gent, but hes not a london english gent is he.
Dude after the kings man this is completely wrong hahaha. Oxfords is the last name of the person who started the kingsman agency. That’s what it refers to
In German he says: "oxfords keine Budapester" wich means oxfords no budepesters. Where Budapester is the German name for wingtip, fullbrogue Derbys with some additional features. So German was more spot on as well
First shoe, with bar across toe, is called, a Gibson, Second shoe, is a Cambridge brogue, punched holes down the side of shoe, Then there is a oxford brogue,( most common), no punch holes down the side, mainly on an around toe area,
To resume Oxford ( or Richelieu as we call it in France) is to be "opposed" to derby shoe. Brogue is just actually a decor in shoe. Harry should have telled "Oxford not brogued"
Interesting topic to take up, Antonio! I like it. It's informative, yet entertaining at the same time. Also, the dramatic music (4 answers, 3 shoes & Crocs) is hilarious!
Although Harry's description of the shoe was wrong, I think it can still be a good motto to live by, meaning "Always opt to be refined rather than casual. Don't just be a man, be a gentleman."
That's the wrong way to look at it. One should always strive for what is appropriate. You shouldn't wear hunting boots to a wedding, but likewise you shouldn't wear calfskin Oxfords on a hunting trip. There are many times when being casual is precisely what is called for. Real gentleman historically did all kinds of things. They didn't just sit indoors and drink tea. They did everything from hunting to warfare to even manual labor. They were well-rounded. All the pomp of rules of formality actually comes out of the middle classes, the "strivers" who are always trying to show everyone that they are "better" than the common plebs. Real gentlemen are secure in their station and have no need for such things. Rules like that are appropriate for the Kingsmen because they are servants (bordering on slaves, even) and expendable ones at that.
Great explanation Antonio! In the video Harry actually says an Oxford is a shoe with an open-lacing system. Think the writers just fumbled that one. Should've brought you on as a consultant for the movie!
Did you consider that he may have meant: "Oxfords without broguing"? "Oxfords not brogues" is just another way of saying "Oxfords not Derbies. Formal not brogued."
Watching this particular scene from the movie, I also got the impression that the writers didn‘t know classic menswear too well as an oxford is referred to as „any formal shoe with open lacing“. They should‘ve studied your videos!
1 Oxford without brogue 2 Derby with long-wing brogue 3 Oxford with semi brogue Please note Derby is not pronounced Durby, it is pronounced Darby. It is a town in the East Mids of UK.
in the new movie it finally answers our demand, in the movie that was set in the past, the phrase “oxford not brouges” was originally “oxford not rouges”. Maybe this is the reason why the phrase is like that, due to its heritage.
@ Mark Richards I get that it’s of English origin and I don’t knock your pronunciation. But I’ve also gotten tired of the English correcting me when I say jaguar with American pronunciation. They say that’s not how you pronounce it then proceed to correct me. Even though the word was borrowed by the English from the Spanish and Portuguese and their pronunciation is wrong by if done by origin. I mean to say that someone’s pronunciation of borrowed words from other languages like renaissance, rendezvous, tacos, burritos aren’t spot on aren’t important. I don’t get offended when British say jaguar the way they do. So when someone like Ian Barkham comes in with some statement about something being done wrong it seems arrogant and pseudo intellectual.
@@JohnWayne-qx3je by the way I'm. Not English I'm. Welsh or British if your referring to great Britain not trying to be pedantic but I'm. Not English. The fact thst the item is pronounced Darby is just a fact as it is from English British origin therefore should use the local prouncuation. The hagar example is bit different as even though the root of thebig cat from South America is Spanish the car company was born in UK and jaguar is pronounced in the English way as thsts what the way the founders intended it. Not trying to be pretentious but that's way of the world the founder or genesis of the word should be respected as thsts what the founders or inventors created it to be sorry really long a d maybe to you a bit if wanker by writing it but it's a reply cheers
Maybe he meant in a figurative speech, "you are now entering a secret world, no longer being part of an open network" by saying "Oxford's NOT Brogues" just saying...........🤔😋😁
First one is Oxford cap toe and it's the most formal shoes. 2nd is derby with brogue, informal, and the last one is Oxford with brogue, less formal than oxford cap toe.