Mite-resistant genetics last only until the colony decides to replace the queen -- unless you have extremely good control over mating (ie, there are no other sources of drones within a couple of miles). That said, there is no magic strain of bees (or hive design) that can compensate for inadequate mite management. I like to tell my classes that winter preparation begins in March by keeping mile counts under 2% ALL season long.
I am one of the old timers that was raising bees before mites showed up. That was in the early 1980s when they came here. So for ~40 years we have been dealing with the monsters and so far for all the work breeders and universities have done we don't have a mite resistant strain and I don't think we ever will. As the bees adapt so do the mites. Call me a pessimist but a pessimist is just an optimist with experience.
@@bduerr5082 Agreed. I started keeping bees as a 4-H project in the early '60s. Like you, over the past 60 years, I've dealt with every problem we have. The only way to conquer the Varroa mite is to successfully and simultaneously requeen EVERY honey bee colony on Earth -- managed and feral -- with mite-proof (not merely mite resistant or mite-tolerant) mated queens while successfully and simultaneously killing all the drones, and while simultaneously treating every colony -- managed and feral -- with an effective product. Sadly, were this 100% effective against Varroa, we might be selecting for other serious negative characteristics. There is no substitute for consistent and wise management of honey bee problems.
You are an absolute inspiration. I love your videos. I love your personality. And I love your spirit. Keep making these videos and I will keep watching. Thank you for what you’re doing for the B community.
Emily put your mated Queens on top , between the frames closest to your feeder .. Helps alot and robbing bee will kill her on the bottom board. My opinion!!
I agree. Placing the queen cage on the bottom board is less than optimal. Bees don't hang out on the bottom board. They hang out on the frames -- especially brood frames. Frames with open brood are packed with nurse bees and nurse bees are the most likely to welcome a new queen. That's where the queen needs to go. The bottom board will see more foragers -- briefly. Foragers are less likely to accept a new queen.
Emily, I’m so glad you feel like you’ve found your calling! I’m late watching your video because I was at the Hive Life Conference it was really big. I encourage you to attend in 2024. The networking possibilities are gigantic along with the deals on beekeeping supplies. Just don’t over buy so you can get it all in your car! I’m looking forward to your videos in spring!
That was an Amazing recap of 2022 my friend and what a Year it was!🤯One of the main things that has always impressed me about U is that Yes mistakes are made but instead of throwing in the towel and walking away u pick urself up, learn from said mistake and move On and thats a Lot harder to do than it sounds believe me! Regardless of whatever 2022 threw at you, and I know it was a lot, u took the punches and kept fighting back and I have So much respect for u for that, u Amaze me each day and I can't wait to see where ur journey goes from here, from the bee yard to the track to life in general, I choose to be here and I wouldn't be Amywhere else☺️👣🐝🍯Cheers to a Great year my Favorite Keeper☺️💛👏 #emilyisthebeesknees #beefitbeeyard #beefitbeekeeping #beekind #beestrong #queenbeeemily #cheersto2023
Like you, I learned a long time ago to not try to save a colony with laying workers. Cut your losses and merge it with a queen-right colony. In fact, that's what I do with any colony that has no evidence of a strong queen (eg, brood).
This is a good strategy for any weak colony. Merge it with another colony and let them work together to get back on their feet and once they take off then you can split them back out to get two colonies again. You would be shocked with some pollen patties and sugar water feeding inside a hive can do to boost a combined colony. Feed well and you will have a monster colony that is ready to split in no time at all.
Idea for ya! Next time splitting a colony, if you don't have nucs, use a dummy or follower board to create smaller space. One side against deep side and the dummy board against the other side creating a two three frame nuc in a deep.
Yes! I love this! I tried a little bit of that this last summer but I didn’t keep them in that box long enough to see how they liked it. Planning to do some work with that this summer tho! Thank you ♥️♥️♥️
Glad you found a goal in life that fills your heart and mind. No one has found a solution to mites, so anyone with a drive to do so I capable. All the best to you!
Great end of year recap of 2022. I have been learning beside you on each step you have taken and which I have made in 2022 during my first year of beekeeping. You are my go to for answers and education. I have so much to learn!! May you have a better and more productive 2023!!
I always put the queen cage up on the frame around food, if no brood. When they are this weak then they need pollen patties and sugar water. Sometimes they will kill the queen when they are stressed. The comb away from the plastic means usually happens when there is not enough. I do not wax mine and the bees do this sometimes. Good information about the laying worker colony.
Good luck this year! Hoping for more successes myself. Watch the hives inside the woods. Last year I started a yard inside the woods and they struggled compared to the ones 25 yards away on the field edge. Lack of heat/sun I suspect.
I have seen the same thing and so I never put my bees in shaded areas anymore. The worst time I ever had was putting them under walnut trees. The hives under the walnut trees swarmed every 2 weeks until I figured out it was the chemical coming off the trees that was causing the problem. So keep them out from under any walnut trees.
I didnt know I had a hole in my sock hahaha sorry made me chuckle lol Make your entrances smaller to prevent robbing, I have had small weak 3 frames nukes and cast swarms survive and become strong with small entrances, Only takes a couple of bees to guard. Most commercial hives have entrances way to big. Mice robber bees hive beetles etc can easily get in even to a strong hive. 3rd generation bee keeper here and only lost 2 colonies in the last 20 years. One of them was due to flooding,
Many vendors sell inadequately-waxed plastic foundation. If you don't add wax, you'll get that wonky comb. In the future, I suggest BRUSHING on melted wax instead of using a roller. (Use a natural fiber brush -- nylon and polyester brushes can curl in the heat of molten wax.) This way, you can limit the wax to the ridges instead of getting it into the bottom of the cells too. Doing it this way, I consistently get perfect combs.
Grafting= cut a small slice in the end of your Chinese grafting tool and it works better. Always keep a damp cloth over your frame till you need to graft. Watch BoB Binine in Georgia about his Caucasian Honey bees, best kind i know of. They swarm less than all honey bees and mine very large 4 deep boxes made no Swarm queens 2022. I used double screen boards on some of them to force them to make me queens plus grafted from some as well. Mild smart bees.
I use two 12 inch blocks and allow the front and back of the hive to hang over a few inches. Its been working well and something to consider because getting them level is challenging.
@@heavymechanic2 The overhang is important to help keep mice from using the blocks at ladder to get up onto the front entrance and thus into the hive. I learned that the hard way when I had all my blocks flush with the front entrance one summer. That fall the mice got into several of my hives before I put mouse guards on.
@@bduerr5082 I never had a mouse and the landing board hangs over 3-4 inches. I did get some plastic mouse guards for a flow hive and attach them to a homemade entrance reducer for easy removal, this allows me to lock the bees inside while the neighbor sprays their fields.
Your Close enough to Ohio to attend our annual massive Bee meeting the first Saturday in March at the Fisher Building in Wooster Ohio. Dealers come from all over America and tons of Amish bring bee boxes by the tons to outside in Carts and wagons. Their boxes are the cheapest in the USA because bee keepers come from many States to buy them including your State. Un-assembled Deep boxes at Arrow head supplies $ 11.75 Large deelers selling everything. Hoping to find Global pollen this year because its the best.
I have no problem with plastic frames. You can buy them prewaxed from the manufactures, I get the Premium wax or triple wax. They draw it out very easily. I have also been moving away from deeps which allows my equipment to be interchange able and easier to lift. Best of luck. I enjoy your channel.
Big fan of your breeding approach to make more mite resistance bees. Will be interested in some good queens if you ever sell them. Do you think there are other genetics worth breeding for? Maybe overwintering or honey producers? Good work 👍
We are working to build a 50 acre habitat for pollinators including bees. Developing a Servant Beekeeping model that is a great deal similar to the Darwinian Black Box Beekeeping model. Would love to share. Hank
Fyi suggest you make only full box strong splits w/ swarm cells as use to be taught. Weak single frame increases are a waste of time as youll learn.... Happy beekeeping
Yes indeed single frame splits unless starting early and building into a 5 over 5 are pointless. It’s crazy how much we learn and improve upon from year to year!
I will have to differ in opinions about waxing your frames. From what I see, I would guess the wonky comb is from not enough wax. You really can't wax it too much. Heavy waxed frames are drawn out a good 2 weeks ahead of non waxed or lightly waxed. It is perfectly fine to have wax laying inside the cell. The bees will rework the extra wax where it is needed and don't have to manufacture it that way. I have seen people take the foundation and literally dip the whole thing in melted wax then put it in a frame after it cools. Try two frames side by side. One heavily waxed and another with wax from the factory. I bet the heavily waxed one will be drawn out way faster and nice and smoot across the foundation.
You might want to try the Carniolan, I have been bee keeping for about 30 years and they are the calmest bee I have ever worked with. If you don't use smoke all you need is a veil and if you use a little smoke you don't even need a veil. They are prone to swarm so you have to stay on top with inspections. PS- You are doing a wonderful job.
Thank you! Yes! I brought a carnolian mix into my yard late last year to add into the mix of my genetics. I love how quickly they build up. Built out an entire deep in a month in July/August
I've killed a lot bees learning why I stay away from them during the winter now.. your doing outstanding for first year.. are you related to Brent from B&K bees ?
Unless you're getting extra wax from the manufacturer on those plastic foundations, I'd HIGHLY recommend waxing them. I've NEVER had the same problem you had when waxing my frames. The opposite was true, I had wonky comb when I didn't wax them, and I've never had too much as the bees will remove what they don't want and use it for the side walls.
@@BlaineNay You’re acceptance rate goes way way down if you have worker bees in the queen cage during introduction. Facts!! You remove the four or five worker bees just before you Introduce the queen to the colony.
@@beefitbeekeeping what the what? I thought I went coocoo with my beekeeping operation but your growth is phenomenal. Are you playing with double nucs yet?? I'm going to just run double nucs from now on. Let them grow to be 3 deeps high (13 frames total 5, 4, 4) and then QE and super.
Sounds like you are learning the hard way why worthy queens cost $40+. Queen rearers put a lot of effort into drone mother colonies. Queen breeders take it a step further and analyze genetics with assays. There is a difference. And walk away splits do neither. There is no silver bullet to combat varroa also. Best you can do is stay local with successful producers. You are doing well analyzing performance.
I kept bees in the 80s & 90s the plastic foundation was awful the bees didn't like them, I assume the foundation has improved since then, I’m getting my first colony today its been 25 years
Poppycock : no one can introduce a new Queen into a honeybee hive by sliding her into the entrance of the colony . You obviously don’t know what you’re doing !! 👎🏻👎🏻