Please see my other video ( ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-mWD3TvXOU0c.html ) for an even EASIER way to fix chair cylinders. NO TOOLS! NO COST!
In a wasteful culture where people just buy things to replace things, your repair videos are a breath of fresh air. I applied your other zero cost simple fix and it worked!
@@LifewithDavid1 We need the unedited non family version with Extra Swearing please. Things don't get repaired without a little curse and swear ! haha jk, but thanks for the Vid David!
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Good work David. Never pass a discarded office chair by the roadside even if it looks trashed the base may have a perfectly functional piston and many office/ gaming chairs share the same 4-bolt configuration under the seat.
Good advice, all my office style chairs are discards, even a $1000 Herman Miller, that only needed a new cylinder 👍 Take the trashed chair off, and you have a great start for an adjustable, rolling work table, just bolt a scrap piece of plywood on top, and Bob's your uncle 🤠
Thanks for such a well presented video. It got me thinking that maybe the rubber seals inside the tube dry out and harden over time. If that's the case the addition of a little bit of stop leak like ATP AT 205 mixed with the jack oil may add more time in between servicing. This type of product is used to rejuvenate seals and restore elasticity to seals within engines, transmissions, hydraulic jacks etc...
That's a good idea. The reason I use jack oil is that it does have some seal rejuvenating properties. The additive might help also, however if the seal is that far gone, you might not be able to bring it back. Thanks for watching!
Fair point. I used ATF as I didn't have any specific hydraulic fluid to hand. I've been running ATF in my motorcycle primary for years without any adverse effects on the shaft seals.
"I hope you appreciate my attempts to keep this a family friendly video". Something tells me there was a lot of blue air off camera, and understanably so. By the way, best explanation Iv'e seen so far. 👍
the video was slow moving , and highly detailed for a small curiosity to fix my darned chair. However, The content it holds is worth every second of watching. I know now if my chair was completely at a loss or if it was repairable. What this brought me was hope. And that, is what the world needs a little more of! thank you.
Thank you for watching and for your kind words. It' can be a little slow. It's always a balancing act to match the video detail to the audience. When I made this one, the videos that were out there all left me wanting more. That's why I got into the weeds. I try to help by adding an index so people can jump to where they are interested.
Thanks very much for this video, David!!!! We've got a lot of chairs in our office just ending up in our stockroom and the junkyard, and some of them still have repairable cylinders.
Great explanation of the mechanism and the fix! You had mentioned you had done this fix previously, is this likely to leak oil over time? Mainly concerned about making a mess of the floor under the chair.
This is VERY IMPRESSIVE! Great technical quality and content. I've been looking for this info for the past 2 weeks and now understand how this type of chair operates. Great job!!!! Many thanks.
Your "one year later video" works just fine....congrats on doing a great job of evaluating the problem and working for the answer.....again nice going!!!
One thing that maybe wasn't obvious, the gas pressure in the upper cylinder is lower than in the lower cylinder because the upper piston area is larger than bottom piston. The force on the piston top is the same as the force on the piston bottom; otherwise the piston would move. Since: Pressure(top) * Area(top) = Pressure(bottom) * Area(bottom) Then a smaller Area(bottom) requires a higher Pressure(bottom).
Yes, this was the "aha!" moment for me, which makes it possible for the overall design to be significantly simpler than you'd expect! I think this only affects the adjustment mechanism though, not the weight it can support, as the latter is just determined by the gas pressure I think
Heavy duty mechanic here, just had to replace a seat and finally got curious enough to look up how these cylinders work with no lines going to them. This was the explanation that I was looking for. Force = pressure x area. Bigger surface area = bigger force if the pressure is constant. Fluid always flows from high pressure to low pressure. You need a force equalization to keep the cylinder stationary, and the seals need to be rated for the pressures involved. I was having a tough time wrapping my head around why a larger surface area would equal less force, but it doesn't. The pressure is what fluctuates, not the force. Even as the cylinder is being actuated, the force remains constant on both sides of the piston. Since air is compressible, the added force of your cheeks compresses the cylinder some, but the piston quickly discovers its new home in the equalization zone of upper and lower forces. Key takeaway: the valve allows the pressure to be adjusted, not the force.
@@alainsauve5903 Glad this helped. Actually, the valve adjusts the volume above and below the piston, everything else finds their own equilibrium (picture of mind blowing up here). Sum the forces around the piston; gas force below the piston = seat force down plus gas force above the piston. Thanks for watching!
I always use a pipe wrench to twist the cylinder out of the chair. Works every time 👍 Thanks for this great video, I always wanted to know how these things worked. Best wishes for your continued success ☮
I wondered about that. I was concerned about damaging the outer cylinder wall so I tried less aggressive methods (like beating on the end with a hammer is less aggressive lol). Thanks for the suggestion!
Thanks so much for creating this! It was easy to follow, and very informative! I was preparing to purchase a new hydraulic lift for my bar stool, but the black ones cost as much as a new stool. Naturally, stainless steel are half the price since that’s not what I need lol. I’m hopeful that this will be a cheaper fix!
Well this might be the only good breakdown of chair piston operation on the net! Congrats on that. I heard cylinder explosions were possible, and that if if were to happen, the plywood base of the seat won't do much to prevent a metal pipe such as the valve stem from being propelled into someone's bottom. These accidents do seem exceptionally rare here, because all cylinders come from a handful of manufacturers and are safety certified, but apparently back in 1983, chair piston explosions were quite common, as i found from an old Spiegel article. What is your risk assessment in this regard? While i do think maintenance of the cylinder with oil is fundamentally safe, i'm not 100% convinced that percussive removal of the cylinder hasn't weakened it.
Thanks for your comments. There is only a small volume of gas in the cylinder, so there is not much energy there. The end construction appears to be such that any incipient failure would result in gas leakage prior to any parts leaving the assembly. The rolled edge around the valve button simply holds soft rubber seals; if it's damaged too much, the cylinder will simply leak gas until it no longer works. So I believe the cylinder design is inherently safe.
Great, I'm glad that helped. However, you might not need to remove the cylinder; check out my newer video; I pinned the link at the top of the comment section. Good luck!
I like how you explained, in detail, how the lift cylinder works. I was surprised to see that the action of the chair's lift cylinder is very similar to how to the piston in a steam locomotive works, although it wasn't actually mentioned in the video. I just recognized the similarity between the two. 🚂
I'm sorry, I'm not familiar with that chair. If you can't move it up or down, check to see if the height adjustment lever is actually pressing on the valve button on the "top" of the cylinder. Also there may be something jamming the mechanism. Good luck, and thanks for watching!
What an excellent video! Very informative and easy to understand - thank you for taking the time to explain this, it helped me fix my sinking office chair!
Nice video Sir. Most people set and never adjust the cylinder after purchase, causing no lubrication to the cylinder. I always recommend extending the life of a cylinder by adjusting the height at least once a week.
hey, i have this problem with a chair, but it only goes down if you sit in it after a while of not being sit in it, is juts happen randomly and never happened when youre it sit in the chair, only when you gonna sit, its the same problem or what is that, is wierd af.
For giggles and grins; try turning the chair upside down for a few hours or days. There might be an accumulation of oil/ grease that has fallen down the cylinder wall, away from the piston seal. By turning the chair upside down, the oil will flow toward the piston seal and may wet it again. Cycle the chair up and down a few times. That might be enough to wet the piston seal and allow it to work better.
i got it, it's actually very usual way of improving performance of piston by applying oil (trying to keep my comment family friendly) 😀 well this video was cool 😎 thanks David.
I found that you don't have to get into that "messy crap". Please see my other video ( ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-mWD3TvXOU0c.html ) for an even EASIER way to fix chair cylinders. NO TOOLS! NO COST!
Interesting method. I've already bought my replacement cylinder though, and so I want to just go ahead and put it in and hopefully the lift will last another three or so years. The problem I'm finding with all these r/r the gas cylinder videos is that they all show someone working on a cheap office chair, typically mostly plastic. My chair is a LaZboy, built for 400-lbs. persons (i.e. a "high capacity" chair). Definitely more metal (and leather) than plastic. I've tried using their own parts vendor's video for how to r/r the cylinder, but it's just not working. For one thing, I don't see how the "five star" leg assembly (made of solid wood, btw) can be removed by whacking the bottom of the cylinder with the side of a hammer (in order to avoid hitting the clip on the end of the cylinder). I've whacked the thing until exhausted, with no movement at all. A closer look seems to show that there is a metal ring around the cylinder that would seem to prevent the cylinder/leg assembly from moving in the desired direction to separate them. Ugh! 🥵 @@LifewithDavid1
It's fun to see a tinkerer explain how these cylinders actually work and that there is often a way to revive them by lubricating them. And the moving CAD illustration is very cool. David doesn't seem to know that there is another way to remove the cylinder from a chair base. I bought a replacement cylinder long ago that came with a pair of collars. One tightens down onto the support rod. The adjacent one can be pushed against the chair base by tightening hex screws that widen the gap between the previously aligned collar pieces. This effectively dislodges the cylinder without the need for a hammer or other tools. Also, if you don't want to go through the mess of reviving an old cylinder you can buy high quality new ones online for about $25 delivered, including ones that extend to a greater length for tall people.
That's a great tip. The comments that I received about the mess was why I came up with an even easier method of rejuvenating the lift cylinders. Thanks for watching!
Perhaps the O-ring on one side of the piston is a little dry or worn. Try holding the support shaft and spinning the chair 180 degrees in order to rotate the piston in the cylinder. That might help; I've done that with mine and it seems to work.
The video was still interesting to watch after the first time I was really able to grasp how the cylinder works, thank you so much for teaching me, currently in the middle of a repair of a gaming/office chair and I didn't get not 1 month of it before it started sinking so I'm really hoping this fix will do the trick so I don't have to sit there and readjust my chair every 2 minutes thanks for the video again and best of luck to you
I took a short piece of PVC pipe, cut it in half length ways, and then clamped it over the chair's cylinder with a couple of hose clamps. ( I guess a couple of black zip ties would have been a bit more inconspicuous. ) I had to trim the length a couple of times but now my chair is mechanically fixed and nothing had to be disassembled / reassembled and no oil dripping on the floor.
That's good. My more recent video doesn't involve any disassembly or oil. It's very easy and may work for you of you ever want to restore adjustability to your chair. Thanks for watching.
I wish I'd seen this last week. I searched for how to fix a chair gas cylinder and saw several other videos how about how easy it is to replace a gas cylinder. Even bought a pipe wrench to "give it a little twist". It is not always as easy as they show. My old cylinder is in 2 parts, there are shards of metal all over and I've cut myself 3 times. Turns out all I needed was a little oil in the right place. This video didn't even come until I searched google for "where is the gas in a chair gas cylinder" because I was thinking about cutting it out. So nice to find a straight forward informative video.
thank you for your effort. my case is little different. it started with squeaky sounds and I didnt know where it was coming so I sprayed everything with WD40. THEN the partially sinking started. it just sinks 1 or 1.5 inches (3-5cm) at any level except when it is at the bottom. sinking doesnt continue in time but makes very weird noise.
My chair compresses a little when I sit on it; maybe 1/2 to 3/4 inch. The lower the pressure in the cylinder the more it will compress when you sit on it until it won't support you weightat all. WD-40 isn't a lubricant; it is for displacing water. It can gum up after it dries a little. That's why I use hydraulic jack oil. I would try flipping your chair upside down overnight and then cycle it up and down a couple times. That might help redistribute the lubricant that is already inside the cylinder. Good luck!.
I saw another video, using WD-40. It seemed totally counterintuitive to use a lubricant to prevent slipping! The WD-40 worked for me (I'll see how long), but I HAD to know WHY. Thanks for explaining the physics behind it!
That must be a Hon chair. Mine has given me as difficult a time to get off as yours. A half hour job became a job that has sat there for months. I’ve tried pipe wrenches, etc. I appreciate your video. - very helpful. I’m also going to check out the other video you’ve mentioned above.
The problem that come with most every convenience we buy (like the cushy adjustable chair) is the question we should ask before we buy. The question is "What is the PIA factor" with the product. "PIA" ? > Pain In The Ass, that come with virtually everything! that is What is the failure rate and the complexity of the repair? Quite frankly, the manufacturers build to fail. And because people generally don't have the patience or facility or the time to fix crap any more.
Excellent explanation and graphics for your video. I liked it. Are you a professor / teacher? Certainly kept the attention span going. Thank you kindly Sir. W4BTK Eduardo
@@LifewithDavid1 20 more years for me :( Keep up with the vids! Also enjoyed the VW car show. My father drove a 1977 Passat when I was a kid. Brought good memories!
ooo, nice animated explanation of how it works! and long live your chair ! mine have mechanism broke in a year but it is a cheap-ish chair and I am obese.
Penguin in the freezer walked by the eating ice cream and dreamy peachy muskrat say looks like you blew a seal? get a better fitting rubber gasket ni no kidding :O bah dump. :P thanks for, keeping it clean shafted well lubed and, friction, push! con sume air fore lookout fish ewe ! bah bah bah/\/
Thanks for a reasonable fix! I found that twisting with a pipe wrench dislodged the cylinder nicely. Took one person holding the chair and the other on the wrench but it worked!
A word of caution. It is possible to compress the rod far enough in the cylinder so all of the compressed gas is released in a flash. Once that happens, you're done. Time to cut some conduit or PVC pipe to slide over the rod to hold the chair up. No more adjustment but you have fixed the sinking problem forever.
I suppose that if the bottom end of the support rod was corroded or damaged, the the support rod seal could be compromised. However, that condition would also occur if the chair was lowered as far as it would go. The chair seat always rests on the support rod and the seat's downward travel is halted by the cylinder bottoming out. It can't be compressed any further, even if it is removed from the chair. You are correct that if the gas pressure is released, the cylinder needs to either be replaced or disabled by using PVC pipe.
@@LifewithDavid1 When I got to the part of the video where you said that, I thought you were giving up too easy. :-) I expect to see a video where you bring a dead cylinder back to life through complete teardown and o-ring replacement, possibly some lathe work, and somehow recharging it with a home-made 2000-psi nitrogen supply. We don't care about no stinkin' budgets, cost is of no importance when bringing this $15 cylinder back to life. Otherwise, great video and thanks for the info. I think my chair sinks slowly enough that it's worth trying to add some oil.
After reading some of your replies, David, I just turned my chair upside-down and cycled the piston a dozen times (to redistribute the original oil as you suggest). It seems to have worked! Thank you! No dismantling at all.
Luv yr vintage eraly days pixel quality & 90s sound. I can't see spending $120. For a new chair made cheaply then waiting weeks or have to take a trip to the store to put up with traffic, parking, people then spending retail. I have 5 feet to walk to my work area, the tools & hydraulic fluid to do this. By 20 minutes I should be having lunch in my fixed chair. Thank u
Hey Dave. I was attempting this wd40 fix and unfortunately it didn't work. I stumbled upon your video where you explained HOW the pressure worked. Mine is too low and dropped. You explained it so well @ 4:10 . I guess i have to get a new chair, but I really do appreciate the knowledge and explanation. Thank you!
What worked for me was cutting a metal pipe with the same length of the shaft and blocking it in place so the chair remains at the highest position at all times.
That works; but it can be a little hard on the tush if you plop down on the chair too quickly. I like to adjust mine since I roll from bench to desk now and then.
What's your opinion David: Are these gas cylinders just NOT really up the job as it appears that EVERYONES chairs seem not to work very long. Is there a way to REALLY fix these things forever perhaps....as most of the videos are just ways to put in a bushing to make your chair stay "up"....your is first to really fix underlying issue but not sure it will last. But....GREAT STUFF, thanks for your video!
It seems more and more people are getting good results by just flipping the chair upside down and cycling the wheels up and down. It's a little awkward but it often seems to work without disassembly. Some chair manufacturers suggest cycling the chair up and down every week to keep the seals lubricated. Good luck!
I've found more info on how to repair this kind of pistons from chairs than from mountain bike dropper post. I knew i could do something before replacing it
Please see my other video ( ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-mWD3TvXOU0c.html ) for an even EASIER way to fix these cylinders. Maybe it will work for your cylinder also. Good luck!
So this is where MacGyver ended up. Nice workshop sir! How is retirement from general bad-ass'ery treating you? Love the instructionally proficient videos! Thanks! Thumbs up and subscribe from me!
Mine sinks, so I put some PVC pipe on it to keep it from sinking as I am the only one who uses it. But I've also seen people use WD40 with success on it.
Thanks for watching. WD-40 sould only work for a short time since it gums up with age. The jack oil is formulated to work with seals so they don't harden over time.
I don't have an Hydraulic Jack Oil David, however I have a lot of Shimano hydraulic brake oil (brake fluid) used them to replace or bleed my brakes on all of my mountain bikes, Can I use that oil instead? Viscosity is very light, like similar to a baby oil. Do I need to use higher viscosity or thicker oil? I don't have a car yet so I don't have Hydraulic Jack and never need an oil for that either. I don't wanna spend that much on an oil since I will only use a teaspoon of it, so I was thinking to use what I already have instead. Anyone please help me. Thank you so much
I'm not sure. The thicker the oil the better. But before you buy jack oil, try using the the brake fluid. It might work well enough to fix the issue. If not, you can always try jack oil later.. It's less than $4 on Amazon. Good luck!
I took the simpler route. When the boss was out of the office I wrapped the cylinder in a spiral of corrugated cardboard an packing tape. Otherwise I would get yelled at that there is no budget for chairs and get back to work!
Operation diagrams are great, however you really did tonsillectomy via hind end of alligator to remove cylinder from seat of chair. just put chair upside down or on angle on floor, put wd-40 or teflon spray lube into cylinder hole of seat and let sit for a few minutes, then grab cylinder with pipe wrench and wiggle out. I even do that as first step since removing cylinder from base is so easy as step two, just invert, hold chair feet and give a tap to edge of cylinder with mallet. watch your own feet when doing that, 2 lbs cylinder falling on foot might be bad 8D
Thank you for the comments. Those are all really good suggestions. I had actually tried all of them as well as making a cylinder puller that also didn't work. I didn't show those on the video since they did fail. My particular chair's taper is such that the cylinder completely jams in there; sometimes there are just difficult "children " out there. That's why I developed my other video ( ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-mWD3TvXOU0c.html ) that doesn't need the cylinder removed. Thanks for watching!
My chair started this went and got a brand new one last month and started doing it again! I'm starting to think they have a weight capacity of 17st now! I'm just pushing 17st now not getting my usual exercise just got lazy really too! But a brand new chair shouldn't be doing it unless made with recycled or cheap ass parts! Doesn't do it all the time it's if you sit off centre slightly it'll sink but sometimes it'll just sink but it's doing more often to whare it's now an annoying issue I had to come back and leave a wee edit after trying your fix I have first done it my taking the hydrolic back off and turned it upside down and gave it a few pumps without the oil as you said you weren't sure what worked but one of them did? Well touch wood but my sinking chair hasn't gone down yet with just the upside down pumping haha but if doesn't work I'll get some hydrolic jack oil tomorrow! Also I have noticed a max weight in Chinese a sticker says max 17!?
Glad it worked for you! I need to adjust my chair for different situations so I chose to restore the cylinder. My more recent video shows how to fix the chair without disassembly. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-mWD3TvXOU0c.html
I must say, the removal of the underseat mechanism and whacking from the other side was the key info for me. But what about all those videos with pipe wrenches?....I now have a new pipe wrench surplus to requirements...
My chair doesn’t steadily sink, but rather it has a habit of compressing about 4” from its maximum height when it bares my full weight. It’s more than just wiggle room or a little bounciness, it slips down and stays stuck there until the weight is removed. Will these methods work for my problem?
I'm afraid your lift cylinder has leaked out some of its gas. Unfortunately, there is no way to restore function to this cylinder; cylinder replacement is your only option if you want to be able to adjust the chair in the future. Otherwise, you could use some of the "clamping" methods demonstrated here on RU-vid to lock your chair in place.
It is difficult to detach the cylinder from the chair without considerable effort. Finally I solved it using pipe and clamps, though the height is fixed and not adjustable now, but it works for me.
Check out my more recent video where repairs don't require removing the cylinder from the chair. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-mWD3TvXOU0c.html
I recently found out that this is potentially dangerous. Those cylinders are filled with nitrogen, not oxygen. The reason is that if you fill that cylinder with oxygen it increases the odds of an actual explosion when combined with friction heat. I recommend just buying a new gas cylinder unless you want a metal rod impaling you.
Thanks for the comment. You are correct that the cylinders are filled with nitrogen; but not for the reason you suggest. Oxygen is an oxidizer (go figure with the name) and will cause seal degradation and could cause spontaneous combustion unless expensive non-combustible oil is used. As mentioned, you should never damage the cylinder because a high pressure gas leak could cause eye damage; however it is an urban legend that the rod will impale you. However, if you don't feel comfortable doing any of this, then don''t. For an even easier solution that doesn't use any tools see my more recent video: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-mWD3TvXOU0c.html
waht the heck. I knew hydraulic machines needed fluid. I just had no idea I needed to refill this thing, or that it even needed it.......... I just put some used motor oil in there with the gasket additives and it's working like a charm XD.
yaaaaaaay thank you Sir I watched this and Ive fixed my chair in just under in just ten minutes I did it with oil and to push the piston down I just happened to have an old drill chuck (3/8 10mm) so i slid this over the piston rod and hand tightened it up I used duck tape to wrap around to contain the oil then topped it up and pushed the rod up and down Then to get the cylinder out I used a pair of stilsons (large adjustble grips) and just twisted the clylinder out of the chair seat mout then refixed the piston rod back in to the spider leg base then same again with duck tape oil and work it in reassemble job done
Thanks for watching. If it happens again; check out my other video ( ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-mWD3TvXOU0c.html ) for an even EASIER way to fix chair cylinders. NO TOOLS! NO COST!
Lets just be realistic in this!! There are a few factors that show you lying about the age of that Chair!! That chair is +- 5 Years old!! 5-10 years is average life span of an office chair.
An easier solution is to fix it is by putting something like a pvc pipe between the washers in the piston rod, sure it will be at a fixed height but there will never be any more sinking problems unless the pipe you put breaks which if you put something like a sturdy think pvc pipe it will never break under normal circumstances.
Hi David, best video on this subject I have seen, my chair issue is the cylinder still works and holds but the chair does not extend high enough anymore? Any thoughts?
If it compresses a lot when you sit on it; I would guess that some of the gas leaked out. Try the fix in my most recent video; it is easier than the repairs in this video. Good luck. Thanks for watching.
Great video. I am embarrassed to admit that I don't have a vise and you mentioned that the first time you did it was without disassembling the chair, can you explain how you do that? Thank you.
The first thing I would suggest is to simply flip the chair upside down and cycle the cylinder up and down (it's kind of awkward). Recently I've often seen that redistribute the oil/grease inside the inner cylinder and eliminate the need to use jack oil on the shaft. If that doesn't work, you can use the same position for the chair (upside down) and put a little jack oil on the shaft and again cycle the wheels up and down. The last thing I would try is to take the seat off and squirt a little jack oil around the valve button. It's messy without the foil dam; so do that as a last resort.
Hi uncle Dave is it just a lubrication problem? I have bought a new gaslift set for 4$ in set. but I still want to fix the old gaslift with the same problem.
It's an internal lubrication problem. Over time the gas piston seal dries out and starts to leak. I found an even easier method to fix these cylinders. Check out this video and you may not have to do any disassembly: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-mWD3TvXOU0c.html Thanks for watching!
I'm not sure. Is the handle still activating the valve at the top of the cylinder? If it still does, then it sounds like the cylinder has lost pressure. Unfortunately, if you've lost pressure then the cylinder is shot and must be replaced. Good luck.
as soon as I heard you say 2000 psi I was spooked so I got online and ordered one for 26 euro... used the pvc tube fix method over the top of the piston to set a permanent height while I waited for the delivery of replacement
Sorry you got spooked. 2000 psi may seem like a big number, but the steel in the springs in your car seat is under much higher stress. However, as I said; if you don't feel comfortable doing any of these activities; then don't! Thanks for watching!
One of my chair legs is snapped what bonder / adhesive do i need or do you have part link for the base of the chair with the wheels on? If the wheels are separate how do i remove the wheels. My chair is also sinking too so i will get to this after, thank you for sharing
If the chair base is made of polypropylene. then I'm afraid you are out of luck. Nothing bonds to polypropylene. You could contact the manufacturer to see if he sells spare parts. As far as removing the wheels, they normally just snap in, so they should just pull out. Good luck!
It probably is, but I didn't know how thin the outer cylinder was. I didn't want to damage the outer cylinder so I stayed away from anything too aggressive; like a pipe wrench or Vice Grips.
I actually met Norm and talked to him nearly 35 years ago. He was at the Cleveland Home and Flower show and he was was at the booth early. Nobody was there and we had a 15 minute conversation; just the two of us. A nicer, more genuine man you will never meet. I figured if the lawyers at WGBH where happy with the phraseology; who was I to try and improve on it. Thanks for watching!
Lol I love how he is sinking the who time at the start. I am going to us a pvc pipe sliced with a hose clamp on it. It will keep my chair up where I need it.
Thank you; it did take a while to present the theory of operation. I couldn't find it anywhere else on the web. The PVC pipe is permanent; but my old back appreciates the cushion that the pneumatic cylinder provides.
Try my other, easier fix first! The link is pinned to the top of the comments. All the hydraulic fluid you need may already be in the cylinder. I would stay away from any oil that could soften the seals that are used in the cylinder. Good luck.
This didn't work for me. It seems my issue is there is popping coming from the space between the gas lift and the steel base. Idk what to do about that.
Thanks for watching. Sorry this didn't work for you; you might watch my other video ( ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-mWD3TvXOU0c.html ). It might work. However, If these don't help; then the cylinder might be damaged beyond repair. You may have no other option but to replace the cylinder. Good luck.
I appreciate the advice. Without opening the cylinder, I spray the outside with knife oil, flipped the chair over and started compressions. Works perfectly fine and no sinking yet, the only issue is, when I stand up and sit back down, the chair rumbles the floor lol But hey, such a small price to make the random sinking go away!
Luckily they are cheap and can last up to a year or so. Mine lasted for a year but I have a hard time to removed it. Other method is to use a pipe inside to fix the height of the chair.
Thanks for watching. My chair cylinder has lasted for over 25 years. Please see my other video ( ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-mWD3TvXOU0c.html ) for an even EASIER way to fix chair cylinders. NO TOOLS! NO COST!
Try my other video ( ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-mWD3TvXOU0c.html ) for an even easier way to fix your chair cylinder. Thanks for watching and good luck!
Unfortunately, neither will work. Do not cut into the cylinder (fat part) because that contains the high pressure gas. Any damage to that end is dangerous, and would render the mechanism inoperable. Cutting the rod will reduce how high the chair goes; but not how low. However, I think you can purchase shorter cylinders; the critical dimensions are the cylinder and rod diameters. Compare the length of the cylinder and the rod length when the cylinder is compressed. Good luck.
