In October 2021, Tom Livingstone and Matt Glenn climbed a major new route on Tengkangpoche’s North-East pillar in Nepal, after spending a total of 7 days on the route. MB01LFUKK7XBVFL
It takes a lot of effort to bring gear and food from the valley to halfway up a mountain. Clearly they intended to use this material themselves and didn't leave it behind to help their "competitors". In any case, the ideal in alpinism is to carry up your own gear and bring everything back down with you, leaving the mountain as unperturbed as possible. This story shows that it's not always easy to follow that ideal.
As an armchair alpinist, I'd be interested to hear from anyone who knows, how does a climb like this compare to the North Wall of the Eiger (apart from the approach)?
I depends on the route you choose to climb Eiger. Comparing this climb to the Heckmair route, the historic one on Eiger NF, it's is almost on another planet. First of all, just taking in consideration the technical difficulty, this new route is much harder than the Heckmair. And to make things even worse, climbing hard pitches at 6000 meters of elevation is far from an easy task. Altitude impacts the level of a climb in two ways. One is by just making everything more physically demanding, as you're performing at high levels without oxygen. The other is the fact that the environment at such high altitude is really severe and unpredictable. It's colder, there's more risk of avalanches, and in general a climber has to fight against so many variables. It becomes a game of chess against the mountains, but while thinking about the next move you're not just thinking, you're up a massive wall holding on tiny holds...
CONGRATS SuperGreat Master!!!!!!!! GREAT Masterpiece!!!!!!!!!!!!! CHAPEAU!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Best Wishes.
That yellow Kryos Jacket got a lot of puncture holes into it. You might use this footage and send it to your R&D department to think of a solution and reinforce the material for this jacket. As a prospecting customer after seeing this I would not buy this product.
@@purplemonkeyelephant as a matter of fact there are no durable down filled jackets, not even the down suits used on very high elevation. I was stating that for a brand such as Mountain Equipment with a long experience, how can you make the outer shell of jacket intented to winter alpine climbing which involves a lot of mixed climbing (meaning you will be draging your arms and other areas on rock, etc) by using a material thickness of only 10 denier? Plus at the price of the jacket you should expect that they figured out this kind of issues during the prototype phase.
