The ONLY Wood Finish I Need

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With about 15 years of woodworking experience under my belt, I've tinkered with a LOT of wood finishes. Over time I developed this finish, a shop-made blend of oils and urethanes that gives the protection of a film building finish but is as easy to use as an oil finish. It's truly the only finish I need!
*Just to be clear, this is NOT food safe. Perhaps a video on my favorite food safe finish down the line? Let me know in the comments if you'd like to see that!
Thanks for watching! If you enjoyed this video please consider subscribing and hitting that notification bell. It really helps small channels like mine.
Products I use in this video:
Minwax Polyurethane: amzn.to/3kPgpuO
Liberon Finishing Oil: amzn.to/3kXkIEf
Danish Oil (alternative): amzn.to/3Njlabs
Liberon Beeswax: amzn.to/3Jm2yFN
Turpentine: amzn.to/3SWFznB
Mineral Spirits (alternative): amzn.to/3oKU83h
--------
Items I keep on hand in the shop:
Glue:
Titebond I Wood Glue: amzn.to/3zRXHGv
Titebond III Wood Glue: amzn.to/3MVnG6j
Titebond Quick and Thick: amzn.to/42HGuMC
Power Tools and Accessories:
Table Saw Blade - Woodworkers II: amzn.to/42bIOLa
My favorite trim router: amzn.to/3LbCbTF
DeWalt Trim Router fence: amzn.to/43cYwr2
My Festool Router Setup: amzn.to/3ZPIQal
Extra Fence: amzn.to/3KHi9jI
1/2" dia Router bit: amzn.to/3UkRFYI
A Better Alternative (Spiral Up Cut): amzn.to/3mcPsSp
Sharpening:
Ohishi Waterstones: amzn.to/3TkoZhP
1,000/8,000 Combo (great budget option): amzn.to/3Lqj7Sh
Angle Setting Jig Plans: www.lie-nielsen.com/pages/dow...
Inexpensive Honing Guide: amzn.to/3Jo2Uub
Lie-Nieslen Honing Guide: www.lie-nielsen.com/nodes/423... guide
Sandpaper for Flattening: amzn.to/3Jor73F
My Finish Mix:
Minwax Polyurethane: amzn.to/3kPgpuO
Liberon Finishing Oil: amzn.to/3kXkIEf
Liberon Beeswax: amzn.to/3Jm2yFN
Turpentine: amzn.to/3SWFznB
You can stay up to date with my work here:
/ encurtis
/ encurtis
encurtis.com/

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27 янв 2023

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Комментарии : 1 тыс.

@xisotopex Год назад

I never ever considered that a day would come where I would watch hours of videos solely about finishing wood...

@kylejones2525 Год назад

Same.

@michaelbauer7023 Год назад

proof that you are nearing the beginning of the end... until such time that you learn that some of the original "basics" are now drawn into question.... in short, this is a never-ending rat hole... LOL

@smittywarbenyagermangensen4860 Год назад

bruh

@ocelot-makes Год назад

i've seen loads now. some of them have naked ladies in them too. that finished my wood.

@finneganswake4128 11 месяцев назад

Amen

@jeffreydickson8888 9 месяцев назад

I am now in my late 70s. My great uncle was a fine cabinetmaker from the 1920s into the 1970s. I spent uncounted hours in his shop as a kid. One of my jobs was to measure the mix he used for all of his finish word - a 50/50 mix of Linseed Oil and Turpentine. This sounds like an update of that recipe. The final step was a coating of paste was and elbow grease. This video brought back those memories.

@petermacmillan6756 8 месяцев назад

50/50 is old school! You can build a great finish that way, but it takes many applications and a lot of evaporation. I bet a lot of your uncle's work still looks great.

@mjremy2605 7 месяцев назад

WOOD, not WORD.

@hkbondar 7 месяцев назад

Maybe WORK, not WORD or WOOD @@mjremy2605

@joentexas 7 месяцев назад

maybe "work" not wood? @@mjremy2605

@feelingold2995 6 месяцев назад

@@mjremy2605 Word🤘

@ninjasownpirates 4 дня назад

My one contribution to those who don't want to wait for the beeswax to dissolve into the turp/oil but also are afraid of having it all near an open flame or hot surface needed for a double boiler. Get a sous vide cooker! 1) they're just great to have for cooking, but you can melt even solid beeswax at 140-150F (the liberon is a mix of beeswax and turpentine, the wax i use is similar but mineral spirits). It's still technically above the flash point so not riskless, but far less risky without a ignition source present. All you have to do is throw all three things in a CANNING jar, put it in your bath and set the cooker to 150. I think you could get away with leaving it until the wax dissolves fully, but every 15-20F I crack the jar open to relieve the pressure since there is likely a large volume of air inside. It's probably much safer to leave it closed, since opening the jar would let out some of the vapors which could in theory be ignited by a spark of some kind. Anyways once the wax is fully dissolved, just take it out and it will solidify at room temperature. My mix of Turp/Watco danish oil/Furniture Clinic Beeswax Polish came out perfectly at the crossroads of liquid and solid. It's technically solid, but just the heat from your fingers will melt it which I find is perfect. Maybe it will be an issue in the summer though? I used pint size jars to make about 300mL, but if I did it differently I'd go with jars that are shorter and/or wider as it's hard to reach in the larger jar easily. Ball's "elite wide mouth half-pint" jar looks like the perfect dimensions, but they don't have the graduation on the side for easy mixing...

@kkmpalmer Год назад

I’ve referred back to the finishing tips in your Insta stories many times-love having this info as a video. Thanks for taking the time to share your knowledge.

@christianslater8980 Год назад

It’s awesome to see from one wood worker to another seeing the different finishing materials and techniques. I will definitely be trying this on smaller projects.

@judeking2174 Год назад

Absolutely brilliant! Thanks for sharing!

@Dirkthrustxxx Год назад

Love the simplicity of your mixes!! No need for strict measurements here - much easier to follow!! Definitely going to give this a go!! 🇬🇧

@bluewren65 11 месяцев назад

I love this idea of an oil/wax finish aesthetic with a dose of poly durability! This is a must try.

@myerscok Год назад

Erik thank you for taking the time to share your hard gained experience with us. 👍

@ENCurtis Год назад

Thank you for taking the time to watch 🙏

@michaelbradford4444 Год назад

Been trying different finishes staying away from polys and I'm thinking you may have my solution with your ingenious mix. Also , storing in a jar seems a much better way than the leak prone cans seem to be . Thank you sincerely for sharing that!

@crafts_avenue Год назад

that's life saving mix you have there sir! thank you

@YoMomma781 5 месяцев назад

Applying with the scotch pad on the last coat is a great idea and tip. Thank you for sharing!

@brianmcurtis 11 месяцев назад

I love the fact you’re sanding while adding the next coat. Perfect!

@ehRalph Год назад

It’s helpful when there are links to products in the description - I’ve been using several types of wax over the years, and currently use Howard’s Feed n Wax which is a Bee’s wax mix. But now plan to pickup a tin of Liberon and give it a go

@BentusiProgenitors 2 месяца назад

Thank you for the finish recipes. I also fell in love with this box. I've made a few like it since taking full inspiration from you. Really took my skills up a notch. Your my idol among all woodworkers.

@JamesCouch777 5 месяцев назад

Thank you very much for sharing. I've been looking for something like this since I began wood turning about a year ago. I've tried lots of things with mixed results but I am definitely going to give this a try.

@FiscalWoofer 11 месяцев назад

Well that is exactly what I’ve been looking for to compare with my normal method - this wins hands down! It is fairly time consuming for larger items like desks though! Super video, I love the easy repair aspect, as clients always do something to the finish that needs a small touch up in a few years.

@DW-ph2xg Год назад

Well done! Thanks for sharing the fire hazard concerns of these products. I am a F/F and I have extinguished the fires related to this issue.

@LiloUkulele Год назад

Nicely presented video. Friendly finish for furniture. Glad you brought up the safety aspect, I had a inst. combustion in my shop a few years back.

@KnotWorking-si8zu Месяц назад

Thank you for sharing! I LOVE the finish and really appreciate your videos.

@smacfe Год назад

Very cool. Love to see the techniques that the pros have perfected for their use. I marvel at the different pros different prefferred methods; the common demoninator seems to be that they use quility products, avoid shortcuts and invest the adequate time and effort plus the years of trial and error it takes to master something. I personally like to spray laquers and 2-part polys, but then again, I have years invested in the technique so it works really well for me. I will try this!

@patrickadair7025 6 месяцев назад

Wow. Thank you so much for this. I tested this out previously and just finished my first mantle with it. This looks amazing and I’m quite proud of the results. Super high end piece that I made in my driveway that’ll be the center of my home for the next 50 years. Pretty cool

@leethompson5942 Месяц назад

I love your finish. I will be giving this mixture a go. Thanks for sharing ❤

@michaelarbuckle6098 6 месяцев назад

Thank you, my friend. Made a big difference in putting a beautiful crowning touch on a large sculptural piece I've been working on for the past 6 months

@daveodonnell5656 4 месяца назад

I’m half way through this technique on some sweet chestnut and so far it’s looking amazing! Thank you for this. I’ve messed around with various finishes using oils and wax and this is the best

@tex87sae 5 месяцев назад

This is by far the best and easiest finish I have ever used. I normally ruin (in my mind) the pieces I have built until I used this. Super easy to make and use. Thank you for sharing.

@mattsgarageshop Год назад

I’m using this approach right now on a small shaker style coffee table (cherry w a walnut strip down the center of the top). So far so good - thanks!

@MrAnimal1971 9 месяцев назад

This has been my only finish. When you build a piece that looks good AND feels good, it!'s so satisfying.

@user-lm9gi9gu9g 8 месяцев назад

I made a couple of mahogany winding sticks and used this finish as directed. The finish is amazing. You can increase the shine by polishing with a few coats of beeswax and there is no build up, just an amazing finish. I will definitely use this method again, brill..........

@woodnotestudio 10 месяцев назад

I would love to see a video on how you finish cutting boards. This was excellent and I will be using this going forward. Do you have a timeframe on how long this mix lasts after you make a batch?

@JeffFontecchio Год назад

Beautiful finish!

@FirstLast-gs8tt 2 месяца назад

Wow!! Super cool! Can’t wait to try it on my Walnut Speaker Cabinets!

@alfredobanuelos4730 Год назад

I first came across the poly blend about 1993. It was Sam Maloof’s blend. I’ve used it on many projects, from furniture to kitchen cabinets. It is very durable. It is easy to apply. But yeah, if you want to last, you do have to wait in between coats.

@KM-bl3vy 11 месяцев назад

I came here to say this also, if it's good enough for Sam, it's good enough for me. The only difference I remember with Sam Maloof was that he would wipe the wood clean until no residue was left on the rag immediately after applying the oil. I've followed this with great results for years.

@mongreldesigns9195 10 месяцев назад

Apologies if this is a stupid question, the poly blend is the recipe in this video or another recipe?

@gerarddelmonte8776 7 месяцев назад

@@mongreldesigns9195 Evidently the poly is used in the Step 1 finish, then replaced with beeswax for Step 2.

@leegillow3475 9 месяцев назад

Finishing is the most complicated part of woodworking. Thank you

@anthonydtobias Год назад

I'll give it a try! Thanks man!

@edsweeney7266 2 месяца назад

This guys channel is one of the best. 'This guy' said with the upmost respect. I am employing this recipe and method and so far it's fantastic.

@keithpeterson9915 11 месяцев назад

I like the simplicity of your method which tight-pored woods like hard maple look beautiful. Years ago I built a period-correct longrifle out of a red maple stock blank with a beautiful curl. I used the period-correct stain of a dangerous combination of 18-molar nitric acid, water and a ball of steel wool. My mixture was 4 parts water to one part acid AND ALWAYS POUR THE ACID INTO THE WATER! Wearing both safety googles and a face shield I added the water. Taking the mixture outside and pointing away from my face, I put the entire steel wool ball in the solution. It flashed off instantly and left me a beautiful reddish-brown stain. The process requires all smoothing prior to application of the stain - NO STEEL WOOL, or the acid and steel fibers will make "freckles" in the finish. After drying overnight, I flashed off the stain with a propane torch with low flame and light passes. Funny, it looked like a rusty rifle, LOL. Then was the time for steel wool and final smoothing. After a once-over with a tack cloth, I began applying boiled linseed oil. I applied 20 coats, rubbing vigorously after each coat was dry. The end result was deep-rubbed luster and prominent display of the wood's curl. Beautiful.

@tbassbu2b 11 месяцев назад

I’m using this finish process on a black limba bass guitar body. So far I’ve done the first two coats. It’s looking really good.

@cfbarnett 8 месяцев назад

can you show photos here or is there a link? Thanks!

@rbc725 Год назад

Thank you for sharing...will give this a try...but more importantly...thanks for the use of "chatoyance"! Fantastic!

@jimaspinii7579 11 месяцев назад

Food safe finish video would be wonderful! Thanks for all you do!!!

@Familytreewoodworks Год назад

Thanks for sharing this. I’ve been struggling to figure out the “buttery finish” that I love about things like Rubio or odies, but wanting the sturdiness of a poly. Looks like you’ve nailed exactly what I’ve been scratching my head about.

@ENCurtis Год назад

You are so welcome!

@boulderguywhy 8 месяцев назад

Poly isn't really any more sturdy than a good hardwax oil, in fact, it's often less sturdy. Urethane bonds have inferior chemical resistance. They degrade over time. hilariously enough, one of the products you mentions actually IS a urethane. Rubio monocoat turns into polyurethane when you mix the part two in. The second part is an isocyanate reactant, not a catalyst. It's there to form urethane bonds with the linseed oil creating polyurethane. The resulting finish is prone to the same decay as poly because it is poly. To get a real hardwax oil finish out of rubio you'd have to drop the part two, which might be doable but i don't think they recommend it.

@Rick-the-Swift 6 месяцев назад

@@boulderguywhy How much time does it take for ply to degrade? I have reclaimed barn furniture that I built 20 some years ago and it still looks as good as the day I finish coated it. Also as a side curiosity, I never understood why anyone would have much trouble getting that "buttery" finish, when just about any varnish, tung/danish oil can produce it, so long as it's sanded and polished properly. I sometimes suspect the reason everyone loves it so much is because a high mirror like sheen can be so difficult to achieve, therefor it's just easier to love the satin finish 🤔

@PLaTerra Год назад

I’m a changed man. Will go out and buy the ingredients today. Thanks!

@ENCurtis Год назад

Hope you enjoy!

@bobsmith3790 11 месяцев назад

That was a great video. I really like the style and pace you use as a teacher. I’m betting a lot of us will get better watching this. Thanks for sharing this.

@davekreucher 3 месяца назад

Thanks so much for sharing your finish process, I tried it works great

@SuperDuperTango Год назад

Question, if a piece gets a ding or scrape that you want to repair after being in use for a while, what is your repair/refinish procedure? Thanks!

@pgfollett Год назад

So, basically a wiping varnish having the second and third coats applied with the grey Scotchbrite. A good, solid finish, for sure. I will give it a try; I have all the ingredients in my shop. Have you used similar materials other than the 3 shown? Mineral spirits vs turpentine? Danish oil? Tung oil? Spar varnish? Have you consulted Bob Flexner's wood finishing bible? Maybe you could expand a bit on your tinkering with finishes and how you arrived at this combination.

@ENCurtis Год назад

Yes, it is nothing more than a wiping varnish. I’ve used MS and danish oil, both work fine as replacements. Spar varnish should work in theory as well.

@dandanklerdandankler2244 9 месяцев назад

Love your content. Absolutely impressive, your delivery is crystal clear. Looking forward to more good things.

@jmj936 9 месяцев назад

Likewise! Eric has become one of my top 5 guy's to watch and learn from. Right now he's my no. 1.

@richie-rich3035 Год назад

Great video! Thanks for the info.

@colinbateman8233 Год назад

I use to use a lot of oil finishes in the late 70s early 80s and applied wax finishes you can add aniline powders to your mixtures by dissolving the Alnline powders in methyl hydrate first I commonly did this in a double boiler but I also added carnuba wax as it sets up harder and polishes to a luster just food for thought

@ENCurtis Год назад

Great tip. Thanks for sharing

@jimfromri Год назад

A beautiful finish and a really well done video! Thanks! I’ve always used a finish that has been attributed to Malloy: 1/3 each of polyurethane, linseed oil (or tung oil) and mineral spirits (or turpentine). It’s similar to yours except you use a Danish oil, which is essentially a wiping varnish. So your total resin content is much higher. Have you tried using just linseed oil instead of Danish oil?

@cdnbean 9 месяцев назад

I would be interested in seeing a comparison -Do you think there would be much of a difference?

@sandyallsopp6778 5 месяцев назад

Great presentation. Thanks!

@kimsullivan9020 Год назад

Thank you for sharing this finish! Can’t wait to try it😊

@ENCurtis Год назад

Happy to! Thanks for watching 👊

@carlcarlssen4299 11 месяцев назад

As a new woodworker, dust collection and learning about spontaneous combustion ( which i thought were myths) have probably been the best safety measures ive learned. I think actual blades come in second. Lets keep spreading the word on the combustion issue, as it would be a horrible nightmare for someone to burn down their shop or home,due to something some ppl would never have thought was possible.

@charlesclark3840 10 месяцев назад

There is an idea called "spontaneous human combustion" about humans spontaneously burning, and this is a myth. It mostly comes from prople passing out (due to alcohol or a serious medical health event of some sort) while smoking, and the burnt remains often have no visible or testable evidence of how the fire started or why the person didn't wake up from the heat. However, spontaneous combustion due to a slow exothermic chemical reaction in the right conditions is very real. A bunch of rags in a pile soaked in anything that "cures" can be the right conditions.

@peterwmullins 9 месяцев назад

ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-3Gqi2cNCKQY.html

@robboberts6899 9 месяцев назад

I too thought combusting oily rags was a myth from shop class movies at school. BUT, I saw it with my own eyes one hot summer day. My dad put some oily rags in a trash can on his just finished deck. It was a big can and in direct sunlight. 20 mins later I saw the smoke coming from the can. Luckily, I saw it before it burned down the house. Never treated finish rags the same since.

@ksmith8019 4 месяца назад

In college I rented an old farmhouse. The landlord lived in a new mobile home and worked antique furniture in his shop. My truck was parked in front of the south window of the shop. I was leaving for class , or work, about 2pm and saw flames about halfway up that south facing window. I ran to his trailer and he and I went in with a garden hose. I sprayed the fire while he was furiously trying to save some special pieces out the back door. What happened was his finish rags in a trash can were in the direct path of sunlight through the window. Spontaneous combustion for sure. Ultimately I was going in and out with the hose due to smoke until the rural fire guys showed up. Lots of water damage once they got going. To this day my rags go outside as soon as I am done with them.

@Cuizma 5 месяцев назад

Thanks for great video! Could you provide more information about the mixture of bee wax with oil and turpentine? I followed the instructions from a video, but the mixture seems too fluid even though the wax has melted with the other ingredients.

@TGamel 5 месяцев назад

I would like an idea of the amounts used as well is it two scoops then fill the quart jar with equal amounts of the turpentine and oil?

@ColtsCorn3r 5 месяцев назад

I’m having the same issue. I’ve added more wax and it is still a fluid instead of a “thin wax” have you been able to get some different results?

@DanMac2222 Год назад

I have always used Dana Robes blend and tried your last step on some urns I made Turned out fantastic,much easier than buffing wax coat,thanks Dan

@TheBenAbney 27 дней назад

I just used this finishing method on a project, and it’s the best finish I’ve ever gotten, so thank you for the advice.

@richmannwoodstudio Год назад

Beautiful! A few questions: 1. What did you sand to? 2. Is there any stain in the top?

@ENCurtis Год назад

320g generally. And no there is no stain on it.

@OzNeill Год назад

Hi, how long would the mixed up finishes last in the jar?

@eugeneboyarskiy7694 10 месяцев назад

Having tried some cheap beewax over x-finely sanded ash I was a bit surprised by the resulting smoothness of the surface. Now I'm sure to do next blending steps. Thanx and compliments!

@Bogie3855 Год назад

I have been using linspeed finish since the 60s. It also takes oil based artist tints so you can stain and finish at the same time in gradual applications. Adding poly to this just adds more base but hand rubbed oil finishes adorns all my gun stocks and it is a bulletproof finish. I also use past wax over top sometimes. I apply my finish with 0000 steel wool. Hard to mess this up and the steel wool burnishes the wood without using other abrasives.

@theofarmmanager267 Год назад

Very interesting - don’t disagree with any of it. When making large pieces commercially, I think the time/effect balance wouldn’t allow for all these coats and waiting time - but for smaller, very high end pieces, that balance doesn’t really matter. When making tables for instance, we used to go halfway between your solution and just something like Osmo. We would apply 2 coats of Osmo and then thinned wax (I would suggest buying beeswax in blocks and thinning it yourself) scrubbed in with a scotch pad. We got the durability of hard wax/oil; that buttery smoothness of wax plus the ability to easily refinish years down the line. In summary, the industry that makes finishes would love you to believe it is either all very complex - or that a one simple coat of magic solves everything. Neither is true in my experience. Time and effort brings rewards.

@coppulor6500 7 месяцев назад

Comments from experienced people weighing in is gold for us starting to get into learning finishes and the fuster cluck of a situation it is.

@theofarmmanager267 7 месяцев назад

It’s a great pleasure for me that others might get something positive from all our experience (aka mistakes). We have now switched to using a 2 pack hard wax oil - our favourite for performance and price is Natura Onecoat which is becoming more widely available in the US but we in Europe have to wait a little longer. The advantage of 2C is that it cures very quickly and therefore the piece can be moved without fear of damage to the finish plus it dramatically lessens the chances of dust contaminating the surface. The hardener is the more expensive chemical but that cost is nothing to the cost of having to refinish a surface because it got dust on it@@coppulor6500

@mcdermottwoodworking Год назад

Awesome video: Question; any reason why you lean towards Clear Gloss for the poly instead of a Satin poly? I assume the scotchbrite knocks down any high gloss sheen in the last step but would love to know if there are any additional benefits to a high gloss bottom coat.

@ENCurtis Год назад

Indeed there is a reason! Any “non-gloss” sheen from the manufacturer is dulled with flattening agent-a silica of some kind. And while that flattens the sheen, it dulls and muddies the grain. So I prefer to keep a clearer finish and lower the sheen mechanically through abrasion.

@s0ysauce88 Год назад

Glad I read this… this miniwax Amazon links to warm semigloss for me.

@s0ysauce88 Год назад

Am not able to find miniwax clear gloss anywhere! Will warm gloss suffice? That’s what Lowe’s has now

@bigd1451 2 месяца назад

I was wondering the same thing.

@gunnarguggs2725 Год назад

An intriguing insight into combinations of typically stand-alone products. Thanks. Your lighting is inadequate to provide good views of the project surface.

@markh5889 Год назад

Looks like a good system. Thanks

@DanielBobke Год назад

Really appreciate this video - thanks for doing it. I have a beautiful old dining table with two built-in leaves that needs to be refinished. Taking the old finish off will be the hard part, but this video provides a great idea for the new finish!

@ENCurtis Год назад

Glad it was helpful!

@euphioquestion420 Год назад

please do a food safe one, this was incredibly helpful

@ENCurtis Год назад

I’m glad to hear that! I will try to do so in the near future.

@norrdal Год назад

I'm also interested in a food safe finish. This one looks great though and I'm thinking of giving it a try. Thanks for sharing!

@brianshorter7562 2 месяца назад

Absolutely love this finish!!!! Like silk on a piece of wood, I definitely didn’t want to hide any of the character of the wood under a glossy or glassy finish.So easy to apply, with few elements to worry about…time, temperature and dust free environment. Thanks so much for this simple process and finish. I will use it many times in the near future

@TheDrewdaddy44 7 месяцев назад

Your the man ! nice shop & great results! Thank you

@johnhiemstra1464 Год назад

Can you substitute mineral spirits for the turpentine? Thanks for sharing your elixir!

@deborahking3284 Год назад

Thin with turpentine and nitro cellulose/lacquer with mineral spirits.

@ENCurtis Год назад

Sure can. MS and turp are interchangeable in this case.

@johnhiemstra1464 Год назад

@@ENCurtis Thanks

@dalleger Год назад

Couple additional tips: Unless you are using a very high quality steel wool, probably not a good idea to apply finish with it. I also would suggest adding a little bit of Japan drier to your finish mix to speed the dry time.

@michaelbradford4444 Год назад

Japan drier ? What is it and where can I find .

@dalleger Год назад

@@michaelbradford4444 it’s an additive that accelerates the dry time of oil based finishes. Use sparingly, especially with polyurethane. You can find it at most hardware or big box home centers. I love the stuff.

@michaelbradford4444 Год назад

@@dalleger I'm gonna look for it today, TY!

@dennisoshea4906 2 месяца назад

Just finished a project with your finish recipe I must say it's awesome thank you so much for your video's love them all When you go back to the school in Maine this summer say hi to my daughter in law Joanne she works in the office

@cedricwilford 6 месяцев назад

Thanks for this. Great stuff!

@edwardr1250 3 месяца назад

You've probably heard this comment before, but I haven't seen it or a response. Essentially, you present your "mixed" finish as a combination of varnish, oil and turpentine (or a thinner). However, the "oil" you use is already a combination of varnish, oil and thinner. So to create your finish, you take the already mixed and thinned varnish and oil and mix it with more varnish and thinner. So the actual ratio of "oil" to your mixture is miniscule. Why not just use pure oil, varnish and thinner, and not pay the exorbitant price for an already diluted product? If you think 1/3 of pure oil is too much, you can use less and still end up with what is the diluted pre-mix that is Liberon. Given your ratio of varnish and thinner to the pre-mix, I imagine the amount of oil is negligible.

@AZ-vt7dt 2 месяца назад

What about adding a few drops of stain to add some color ??

@edwardr1250 2 месяца назад

Premix stain is too diluted to add color in the 1/3 oil - 1/3 varnish - 1/3 thinner solution. If you want to add color you can use oil-based pigment or mica-powder dissolved in acetone (if you try mixing directly with oil-based varnish it will form globules like oil and vinegar).

@rottenheavenly6245 Год назад

Your work bench looks like you’ve never actually used it

@ConcreteLand Год назад

Hah! I was thinking he’s never stained anything on that bench. 🤣🤣

@WilhelmFreidrich Год назад

Sick burn

@elchimpo9590 Год назад

Actually, he does. At 2:02 he uses it when applying the finish on the off cut 🤪🤪🤪🤪🤪

@JamesBrown-js3lm Год назад

My bench was new looking for a short while, I use it a good bit but my wife stacks stuff all over the place in my shop. I have had her helping break it in…. Not by choice lol

@xMyNameisJames88 Год назад

Mine has 1000 beer can ring stains

@robertsoncletokoerner7012 Год назад

Agradeço pelo aprendizado, muito obrigado. Robertson (Brasil)

@davidlewis9572 Год назад

Thanks for finish recipe, nice shop …clean n organized. Beautiful box

@ENCurtis Год назад

Thank you! Glad you enjoyed it.

@jeisonfernandez2414 5 месяцев назад

I just tried this finish method and…. Wow. Super easy, consistent and easy to fix.

@TheAgeOfAnalog 4 месяца назад

Thanks. I may try this on my next speaker or turntable veneer project.

@randypowell4799 Год назад

Like your blend of your woods.

@meepcaster 4 месяца назад

Just want to say, used this to finish my first project and it came out gorgeous. Used tung oil and wax I found off Amazon and I'm happy. Thanks!

@bobwallace6812 6 месяцев назад

Excellent video. Thank you.😊

@charlieabel1533 6 месяцев назад

By far, this is the best method I've seen....

@viti8347 Год назад

Have just made a table from Australian hardwood. Having been looking for a finish that won't look "artificial". You've nailed it for me - Thank you.

@ENCurtis Год назад

Glad I could help!

@christoszografos3468 11 месяцев назад

Nice simple video. Thanks for the tip. I'm making a kitchen island with butcher block top mixed with tiles. So, I'm definitely going to try the second part of the finish (waxing). Only difference is I'm using a water based polyurethane finish... Thanks again.

@Hotrod66149 3 месяца назад

Dude I cannot thank you enough, I use transtint a lot and that stuff is getting more expensive as I go but to make a toner not only looks better,( I tried your method ) a little goes a long way! Like I said earlier, I can’t thank you enough so the least I could do is subscribe which I did, keep blessing us my friend.

@jimyoung9262 Год назад

This is fantastic. Thanks.

@TheBlakerunner Год назад

Wow. Thanks for this. going to give it a try. and YES, please do something on food safe finishes... I have some salad bowls that I need to finish. Thanks!

@stevevogt866 9 месяцев назад

Thank you for this as this is great info for me A beginner.

@gerarddelmonte8776 7 месяцев назад

Excellent info, thanks. When I was in boat school we did some simple projects like a tool box, and the go-to finish was three coats of Daly's Seafin Teak Oil, wet sanded to 400, then a final wax buff with #0000 steel wool. I tried simplifying it to Watco Danish Oil, but still wasn't pleased with the results for my sculptural art boxes. I realized after viewing this vid that you simply cannot get away from a great finish taking days, it's as simple as that, and you have to make allowances accordingly. Anyway, I followed your suggestion herein, more than pleased. Thanks again.

@WorkingTimbersCo Год назад

Excellent, will be trying this. 👍🏼

@ENCurtis Год назад

Have fun!

@stevennachlas9596 Год назад

I’m going to try this, or try these. I’ve worked with “3-2-1” finish before, but I like the prospect of these. Thanks

@redliner4965 Год назад

i love the job that you done on the box , Beautiful job , i'm off to watch some more of your videos , god bless you and keep up the good work. 🤘🤘😁😁

@littleeaglewoodworks Год назад

This was very helpful. Thank you!

@ENCurtis Год назад

You are so welcome!

@danbgt 9 месяцев назад

Wow! Way cool! Thanks! I have “tinkered” with woodworking for most of my 73 years on this Earth. The one thing that I have always just despised is finishes. I just hate it. This is pretty darned simple and looks great. I’m stealing it!

@BernhardSchwarz-xs8kp 3 месяца назад

Working with wood - turning a piece of wood into something that is not only beautiful but has a sustainable economic value for practical use in our daily lives - is in my humble opinion - a way more complex topic than I ever imagined. The more I learn about "wood" and how to treat wood - the more I get frustrated about how little I know.