I bought the Ender 3 and a month later bought this one too. Great printers! I’ve worked them both hard. A really like the upgrades. Great review. Thank you.
I have one of these. Great machine indeed. Im very happy with it and Id recommend this also for sure as a first printer as it is in addition a machine u can grow with as u learn more and more and advances. However, its NOT quiet. Its not very noisy at first, until till the PSU fan kicks on at wich point it starts screaming almost like a hairdryer on full blast. The PSU fan is by far the loudest part in the machine but this maybee goes for 3D printers in general, (Have not used any other machine then my own so I dont have anything to compare with but seen others also pointing at the PSU fan being very loud.) This however defies a bit the purpose of quiet stepper drivers. Its definitley not something u want to have running during the night while trying to sleep unless u can close a door to the bedroom or the room the machine is running in. (Not sure its a good idea leaving these running overnight anyway but many do for long prints). Despite the loud PSU fan its as said a really good machine. Easy to operate, the precision is there and a guy named Jyers also make a great firmware upgrade for it that fix some bugs and adds lots of functionality. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-o1zXYwgIPLY.html. ONE NOTE! Creality forgot to cut out air outlet vents for the PSU wich completley disables the cooling as the air can't get out again and this can lead to PSU overheating (or fire in worst case!). I removed the cover and cut out vents with an angle grinder but there should be printable replacement covers with proper vents if u dont want to do it that way. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-9e-2i5WE-gI.html The few caveats of the machine are however fixable and its a also a machine with a great community around it if u want support wich is a BIG plus esp for starters including me.
You've got me sold on this printer. I've had some extra funds burning a hole in my pocket, but didn't know where to spend them. I'm a total newb, so I'll be learning on the go. Sounds like the 3 V2 should be a good place to start. I like how you talk to your audience instead of talking down to us. It's obvious that you're speaking from experience, so thanks for your insight.
I have actually just bought this as my first printer and am waiting for it to arrive. It is interesting to watch this review which confirms that I have made the right choice. Just wanting to see the real works in a week or two.
Every single one of your "cons" is already available as an upgrade either as an official upgrade from Creality, or from a 3rd party like Micro Swiss (direct drive). So basically, yeah, the V2 is the perfect printer. Had mine for a week and loving it.
If you've never used a putty knife to remove prints from that bed, then why is there a putty knife literally sitting on the machine under the bed almost getting hit by the bed leveling screw knob? @9:27
I believe that the Z on the display is the Z-offset value. X, Y, and Z positions are probably somewhere else in the display system. Putting the Z-offset in the printer may eliminate the need to reslice the model on partial prints but mostly useless in a normal print job. That is speculation on my part. I have the original version of the Ender 3 and the quality-of-life changes on the v2 are very nice to see.(But, yes, touchscreen please!!!)
Default printer and firmware is okay for PLA but not that great at everything else, bed temp also capped by default. I upgraded mine with an enclosure, G10 / PEI bed, harder bed springs, Klipper, ABL. Also fixed the hot glue issues around the motherboard. Now it prints up to ASA really well.
Having both An Ender 3 and a BIQU B1, there is no comparison. The B1 blows the Ender out of the water. On the B1 I can level the bed manually and it stays level for months at a time. The Ender Z_stop switch is flaky and I'm constantly fighting it. I've been 3D printing for 8 years.
I'm loving this channel , would you recommend it to a 20-year-old who knows very little about 3d printers, but would like to learn, maybe thanks to some courses on RU-vid or by reading manuals?
I just bought a V2 today at Micro Center in Trustin California. Already waiting for the test print to finish. But just looking at the test print. It's preforming better then my Tronxy X5SA. Quitter as well.
I like ender 3 v2 but it is good if the person is good at tinkering around. so my first choice was ender 3 v2 but i am analysing which one i will perchase
Good review! A note though, not sure if that's normal but why there is no print speed and Wattage use / per area or similar comparision to similar products please? I would like to know if that printer is slow/average/fast and if it is going to use a lot of energy (which is both not green usually and expensive these days).
I actually bought one last week. Get the upgraded springs and metal knobs. Bed adhesion sucks but flip the glass over to the smooth side and it sticks like glued in place. Get new Boden tubing as well. Everything else you can print yourself with the printer.
@@The3DPrintingZone I print in PLA, PLA Pro, PETG, and now I'm exclusively using 3D-FUEL Pla Pro as its outperformed everything I've used to date. My bed adhesion has been 100% since flipping my bed. I've just found that a smooth glass surface gives me the best adhesion. I have friends that swear by the magnetic flexible surface but we all dial our machines in differently, its such an interesting topic as there isn't a one size fits all definitive.
Ok, just curious. Are you into CNC machines or laser engraving? Been looking at those and 3D printing and am interested in them all but not sure where to start. Thinking about starting with this 3D printer since it’s the least expensive and looks fun for myself and the kids. Have you gotten into CNC machines or laser engraving? If so, what are your recommendations for a beginner?
Does this have thermal runaway protection I can’t believe people would leave a print run overnight - totally a risk fire 🔥 or other issues like wasting filament 😬
The V2 actually does have TRP, yes. Firmware 1.01 and higher includes it. There are several ways to monitor for fire or wasted filament even as you sleep too, including the Spaghetti Detective and/or placing a smoke detector right above your 3D printer. I understand that many still wouldn't be comfortable printing while sleeping and that's up to the user, of course.
I purchased a Creality Ender 3 Neo but after watching many videos I am now undecided on which one I should buy as a noob. Could you kindly respond and recommend a model for me. I want to print helmets and smaller items such as lighter holders battery pack holders and so on. I would be so grateful for any help and response. Thanks in advance
I just got my ender 3v2 and in less then 2 week it no longer goes up as it print . So it makes the base of a print and then just make a mess. I can't believe the stepper motor would have gone bad this fast. Please anyone can help? I've reached out to the manufacturer so far I have not been acknowledged.
LK5 Pro or Ender 3 v2? I like the printable size of the LK5, but the Ender 3 is big enough for what I am trying to print. Longer cut some corners to keep the LK5 priced well, like how the belt for the x-axis sits below the "strut". Some other reviewers have commented on this, and how it can introduce a variation in the position of the print head compared to where it thinks the head is. Over all the Ender 3 v2 looks like a more detailed/polished beginner 3d printer, but I like the size of the LK5.
Is it possible to upgrade my V2 to reach 300deg tempt? I would like to use high tempt filament. Please list the things I need, if it is possible. Thanks!
I have one and the beds are not great, I do clean them with hot soapy water but I’ve ended up using glue sticks , he’s being economical with his facts !
I've been spraying my smooth glass with Fructis Extreme Hold aerosol hair spray for years. Coat it until it is all wet like you would paint and looks glossy. Lay it on the bed and preheat. Put the clips on once it's to temperature. After the print is done let the bed cool completely and the print will pop right off. You can print for a long time without redoing it. Once and a while clean and reapply. Hot water and dish soap will work fine. Make sure the surface is squeaky clean and dry. then reapply hair spray. ABS will even adhere well.
Hi Nils. I just purchased my first 3d Ender 3 V2 & will have it on Thursday. I am really looking forward to getting into it, since I want to build stowage & other things for my 1/35 scale tanks & trucks & maybe start into making my own models. I am in an apartment & so am wondering about smell. Is there anything I need to be concerned about? If you have any tips for me I would certainly look forward to any help I can get.
I am not sure you should put it in your bedroom - the burning plastic is toxic and not good to breath in. I recommend putting it in a bathroom with the fan on , or maybe in the garage or something.
great channel, great review. This very same printer is what I recently purchased, seemed the best choice for getting into this. runs about $340 here in Australia so thanks for the info. Subscribed.
Hi Nils, love your videos!! Hope you can help me. I have an ender 3 v2, extruder motor stopped moving, Plugged the motor to a different axis and did rotate so the motor is fine, check continuity of the extruder cables and is ok, check voltages and vrefs of the extruder pins and extruder drive and all are ok. Everything seems fine but cant get my extruder axis to work. Do you have any clue what is happening? Appreciate any help of guide. I dont know if I need a new board, or motor, or cables or psu… driving me crazy! Thanks!!!!
Hey Lucas, that definitely sounds pretty strange, especially given that you've done a pretty thorough testing and troubleshooting. As I was reading your comment I kept thinking "he should try this" and then I read that you did, so you were one step ahead all the way through. I honestly don't know what else you can try, other than to reach out to Creality support to see if they can guide you on it. Not sure if someone else on here has any experience with this? Either way, best of luck on it. Sounds pretty frustrating.
what do you think about the CR 6 SE vs this model for first 3d printer? It's a bit more expensive but some of the other features such as bed leveling seem worth it since everyone seems to mod the ender 3 v2 right out of the box.
If you can get the CR-6 SE, it's got a touchscreen, dual z-axis and, as you mentioned, the auto leveling. These are three fairly significant upgrades. There's a definite price increase but if you can buy it, you'll be happy with it.
To provide an opposing opinion, check out Tom's review of both here: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-3jkrblU9lMI.html. He has actually owned both, where I have only owned the V2. He says to skip the 6 and get the 3 V2.
My 9-year old grandson wants to print and design 3-D planes and rockets. Will this machine do that? Are there inexpensive programs or software to do this?
Something like this would be perfect. It can handle most kinds of prints and would be a blast for him to use. As far as software, he'll want to download some slicing software to convert the models he wants to print into printable files. I'd recommend Cura, which is free. He can find models to print on sites like Thingiverse.com or MyMiniFactory.com. Good luck!
two things off the bat i do not like the roll of filament on top, and does not come with auto level i know there is an option to add one but being a novice no thank you. I like the 3 D Mingda magician X it comes with auto level and is quiet. yes it is 500 plus but being a novice at 3d my first buy i would go with Mingda magician x. ender 3 v2 i could buy for 365 at best buy canada.
I’m new to 3d printing but i need my prototype parts to be useable in order for me to know their functionality and what can be sacrificed for weight and so on. Now, I’d like to stay under 400 and that may be asking a lot but i don’t know if i can even do this 3d printing but i imagine if i can i will have many of these units. I found a filament that looks promising and that is nylon with carbon fiber so i need all metal hot ends and the capability to get to 260 degrees. Doing a search to ask this does not return enough info and I’ve been watching a lot of YT videos and you speak well and get to the point in a clear and effective manner so...I’m asking you. TY
My first thought would be for you to buy a solid printer like the Ender 3 V2 but replace the hot end with an all metal one like the E3D V6 (geni.us/HcLp). That'll put you under $340 and give you all that you're looking for. Alternatively you can buy a printer like the Original Prusa Mini +, which supports up to 280 C and is a super solid printer out of the box and costs under 400.
@@hdgardens It sure can. Most 3D Printers are easy to upgrade the hot end unless they're using a fairly proprietary or non-standard setup but the LK5 Pro is fairly straight forward. I haven't tried it myself but there are adapters if needed, like this one: www.ubuy.com.kz/en/product/MNTW9SZK-haldis-3d-all-metal-v6-hotend-bracket-parts-upgrade-bowden-extruder-aluminum-mount-compatible-with-a
I hate to sound stupid, especially on a public forum...However, is that block all the i need to order to make it a “hot end”? I followed the link you sent in the last communication and it sent me to what looks like a bracket with 4 screw contact points and I am so new before I order is that all that is need to make it capable of printing nylon? TY I would contact you direct with these helpful answers to my questions but I don’t know how to.
I haven't had a chance to try out the CR-10 Smart yet but it looks super impressive. Larger build volume, auto leveling, touch screen, WiFi, support arms... the list goes on and it looks super impressive. I'd like to get my hands on one and try it out for sure and, at least by the specs, if that's in your budget, it looks like an amazing machine.
@@The3DPrintingZone thank you very much! I am currently planning to offer a 3d printing project for the school I go to. The buget is around 450€ / 550$. I have the Anycubic mega zero 2.0 at home and I am very happy with it. It is a good alternatieve to the ender 3. But for school I go with the CR-10 Smart then.
Cr-10 smart is like a bigger cr-6. Aaaand the cr-6 is like a fancy and slightly upgraded Ender-3v2. I almost bought an Ender-3v2 instead of the cr-6 se, but man... The cr-6 is really good, I never looked back to the Ender-3 series. But it's just my opinion.
I really don’t. I’ve been leaving these overnight for about five years now. The power supply issues that caused the fires in the past can still happen but I keep smoke detectors right above my printers and cameras with phone alerts.
@@The3DPrintingZone Jeez, that was probably the quickest answer I've ever gotten on RU-vid. Thanks for the great video, I'm about to buy my first 3d printer :)
Someone else said the same thing recently so I looked into the Max. It's all about the priority - size vs features. The Max is, of course, bigger but it seemed to be lacking in most areas as far as features, hardware and how they're built when compared to the V2. If you really need the extra size, the Max wins but if you're looking for a better printing experience, the V2 has it.
@@The3DPrintingZone I really enjoyed my Ender 3 v2. prints realiably and havent done any mods yet. I'm learning alot and emjoying the process. rewatch all your vidz for begineer and it helped me alot! Thanks!
@@The3DPrintingZone clicked the link in the description and it says $360usd + shipping/tax. so convert usd to cad and add shipping+tax and it's well over $500
@@iceboundglaceon Ah, gotcha - try this link. Cheaper by far but it might still be pricey in CAD. The standard Ender 3 is a good option too and less expensive. geni.us/LqgnDqL
Based on this video I've just ordered the Ender 3 V2 direct from Creality. I've been thinking of trying 3D printing for a while and this video convinced me that this is a decent 1st machine, especially for the price. Question, I know the bed must be leveled relative to the print head, but how critical is the level of the surface the printer sits on? I live on a boat (on a river) and while it's not extreme the boat does move around a little when the river is running fast or a big boat goes by.
I really want to see the death of MICRO USB, it is junk breaks too easily and can even break the connector inside. Cannot believe they did not just go to C. My daughter wanted a 3d printer for Xmas so there is an Ender 3V2 under the tree.
