The Pig Chute, the way it's meant to be ridden! 

Thanks Man!

Thank you!

Look for a "how to carve" video coming soon! It'll include all my best tips.

@@cherrycarves Hi James, I love your carving style! Heel side is crazy good! Can't wait for the "how to carve" video!

So... First I throw away the Burton liners, get yourself a good stiff liner instead. I get mine from the discard pile at my local bootfitter, I like the ones with the plastic tongue down the front. Then I take a plastic tongue from an old ski boot shell, trim it to size and put it inside my boot between the liner and the stock tongue. Finally, I strap it all up with a velcro loop and a Booster Strap. Game changer. For the bindings, I might suggest you forget about mechanics and logic and just go on feel. Every body is different and different setups work for different riding styles. I have experimented with so many setups in part because the industry generally doesn't cater to my style of riding so I have to go custom for the kind of steep turns I prefer and the extreme edge pressure I create. So I tried to replicate the cant and lift I ride in hardboots and it works very well. This one's a not a game changer, more of a slight tweak. I put a 1/4" strip of rubber along the outsides of both baseplates for the canting, and another strip under the toes of the front foot and the heel of the backfoot then trim or fill the transitions. The result is 1/2" height under the pinky toe of the front foot and flat to the baseplate on the inside of the front heel (1/4" under the big toe and 1/4" under the outside of the heel). On the back foot it's 1/2" under the outside of my heel and flat to the baseplate under the big toe (1/4" under the pinky toe and 1/4" on the medial side of the heel). And riser too, 1/2" (13mm). I have two types: one just lifts the bindings for more clearance and less boot out, the other is more like a plate and stiffens the board under the bindings. The latter I use on production boards which are always too soft; it makes them stiffer under the feet and thus able to hold more edge pressure and carve faster, which is necessary to carve steeper runs. Mine are pretty fancy but risers and plates can be made of plywood (or rubber or anything dense enough) and fastened through the bindings into the board inserts with longer screws.

@M C Look for Palmer risers on Amazon.com, or order the JJA version through email at jaseyjay.com. The JJAs will stiffen your board and make it carve better, the Palmers are designed for minimal effect on board performance. Personally, I start to chatter on heelside with anything less than +12 degrees in the back foot. Of course that stance is not ideal for jumps and park so that's why you need two setups (at least) or just change your stance on carving days.

Pretty sure that's a Coiler Contra, T3 titanal, 12m sidecut radius, 296mm waist. Definitely a carving specific board... Among the best softboot carving boards on the planet actually; newest tech, latest edition.

@@cherrycarves thanks!