Hahaha I just noticed that. I have been following Manny since last year, he is really good at speaking in front the camera already. And today I watched this video for a few first minutes, I was like ok let me see how old was this video lol
Manny, I wish you went up two stops higher speed keeping the background a bit less exposed. Then step up the flash to one fourth or something like that. Probably you would have had more dramatic effect to show the power of high-speed sync. Just my thoughts.
I know this video is older but this information was much needed. A lot of creators talk about HSS but do not give the perspective and comparison you just did. Major KUDOS to you, Manny.
For me the biggest advantage of high speed sync is capturing movement in indoor scenarios. If I need the shutter to be 1/500 or 1/1000 that's super helpful. I've never thought of using it for outdoor portraits like this. I feel like in this instance I do prefer the 5.6 image, but in a lot of scenarios this could be valuable. Thanks Manny!
I live in Brooklyn and it’s something about having a softbox on a stand with no one to help, makes me fear someone is gonna run up and steal my light. Brooklyn has change but the Brooklyn in me knows how shit was back in the day.
Jona I agree. I love bokeh, but I also liked how the tower/boat was framed with the the model. Once bokeh was introduced, it completely blew it out and there is no longer anything to appreciate besides the subject. Not all images need to be bokeh-licious.
The reason f5 works here is that there is enought seperation from the model to create some subtle bokeh. At larger apertures it just blurs out. Its all about how you look at it. To me f5 is pleasing.
Yeah there is this silly belief that good photos mean lots of bokeh... When in fact it often fails to tell a story. The f5 looks great because it invites you into the BG and tells a story of where this girl is. So much more interesting. Chasing this want to blur out the background is ridiculous, sometimes I think they may as well shoot in the studio and not on location because they just want to blur it out...
Hey Manny. I need your thoughts. I’m subscribed btw. I just bought a Nikon Z9 with all the 1.8’s and recently the 1.2’s. I also just ordered the Nikon sb5000 flash but I’m looking into getting a Godox but I don’t know which is the best. I only like the best of the best products. Any suggestions? Thanks man!😊. Btw, I shot people not animals. No studio.
My problem with the Sony A6500 is the 1/4000 second shutter limitation. Often on bright Southern California days, I could really use a faster shutter speed (like 1/8000) to shoot wide open with a f/1.4 or even f/1.8 lens. I will be getting the A7iii in the foreseeable future but, it the interim, I will slap on a either a CPL or a ND filter to tone down the light and let me shoot at the slower shutter speed.
So basically high-speed sync is simply opening wide aperture and taking up the shutter speed to get the right exposure, rather than a more closed aperture and slower shutter? There’s no actual setting on the camera or flash where you must select “high-speed sync”?
So what I got out of the video is HSS allows you to drop the f stop to achieve the bokeh without overexposure. Instead of using HSS to achieve this, can you not just use an ND filter? Keep it at 1/250, drop to f1.4, and correct the over exposure with the filter?
MainManManny I’ve been in photography only a year now. Would you please do another tutorial on soft box positions compared to sun positions during our peak photography times you learnt me including shadows, fades etc with HSS flash?Keep up the good work in explaining without making it look like rocket science like the other youtubers lol we won’t mention names. Thanks
I have noticed that in hig speed sinc the power of the flash drops drammatically. The AD600 has more power so less problems. With the ad200 I have, it's a bit more challenging. Furthermore I have seen that the extenal lightmeters are inefficient in high speed sinc.. so I guess only by different attempts you may have the right power to be settled, doesn't it? Do you have some tips more to help to settle the flash power?
Great video and great shot, thanks a lot ! I was wondering what are your thoughts on usind a shoot through umbrella VS soft box for an outside photo session like this one ? Typicaly, the problem with an umbrella would be the indirect light coming from the reflection on walls and other surfaces, where a softbox provide a single source of light. But for an outside photo session, there is not really other surfaces nearby for the light to reflect on, so would you get equivalent result using shoot through umbrella instead of softbox. I´m asking because I´m not to keen on carrying around and setting up a softbox for exterior photoshoot...
i don't consider myself a photographer but i like taking pics every now and then. anyway, i actually prefer the f5.0 shots over the f1.4 ones. just my opinion.
So my question is [& im sure has been asked 1000 times , and if you have a video please link it to me] Should we go with a Monolight or an OCF ?! Ive watched your vids and seen you use both. So if i want to portrait photography like yourself with a light that can be versatile enough for inside and out... which is the best option? Thanks !
How to enable HSS. I have sony SLT A58, Godox AD200, and Sony X1T-s trigger, but still beyond 1/250 sync speed (shutter speed) during bright day light, I am getting dark bands on the face of the photograph. What is the solution. Thanks.
good friend if you didn't feel doing the video ...you should have not... your energy was not the same ... you forgot even the name of your model... believe me when I say we are your viewers and we will wait for your quality videos... we know we will get the best of you ... in this one you feel like improvising and plowing through...
I have noticed with aperture f1.4 only eyes are perfectly sharp, while the rest of the body is blurry to some extent and skin has no texture and fine details. What's the point of buying high resolution camera just to blur everything🤮
D C no need for a light meter. The Godox ST-IV is the perfect solution. It has a feature of TTL Convert to Manual. Basically, you with meter or take a shot in TTL, and press the button to convert the variable TTL value to a fixed Manual value. From there, you can fine tune with third stops or one-tenth of a stop. It’s an awesome feature. But it only works with TTL flashes.
Good information, wrong situation to use it. You completely shit the bed on this one by blurring out what really made the shot beautiful. By using bohak here you might as well put her on a seamless backdrop because there's nothing special about the shot anymore. Like I'm sure somewhere in a photography 101 it says "tho shall not blur out seaside light house backdrop for cheese bohak effect" . Shame on you!
