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The PowerWall and Battery Shelf in sunny hot Australia at 40°C. What can we do though? 

Off-Grid Garage
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For the last few days, we have experienced outside temperatures of around 40°C. During this time, I had a closer look at the #PowerWall, the #Battery2.0 and other components of the solar system to find hot zones, hot spots and other areas which need some attention.
With the FLIR camera we can easily detect these areas and can measure some extreme temperatures of up to 80°C! Some of these problems are easy to fix, some are not so easy to identify and are probably just what we will get in these climate conditions during summer.
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12 дек 2022

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Комментарии : 380   
@JB1978
@JB1978 Год назад
Thank you Andy! It is 19C in my apartment (energy saving due to the war-driven crisis), -5C outside, but I felt so much warmth coming form your roof through my monitor, that now I feel much warmer myself! :D
@victorshane4134
@victorshane4134 Год назад
16C in my house... :D Same problems :D
@OffGridGarageAustralia
@OffGridGarageAustralia Год назад
Oh, that is great. In the next video, I can lay at the pool for a while and bake in the sun 😊
@JB1978
@JB1978 Год назад
@@OffGridGarageAustralia that would immediately impact my performance at work... 🤣
@williamhustonrn6160
@williamhustonrn6160 Год назад
I ran into heat issues with my solar system on my sailboat similar to your issues. The way I’ve combat it is I 3d printed brackets to mount multiple 120mm computer fans blowing onto the charge controllers and onto the breakers and just that alone was enough to solve my heat issues during peak of the summer here in Florida, USA
@JayDee25895
@JayDee25895 Год назад
Makes my day every time I see you have posted another video.
@OffGridGarageAustralia
@OffGridGarageAustralia Год назад
Great, I'll dome some more... 😉
@jasonhensley947
@jasonhensley947 Год назад
you are the nerd that lives inside of me... thank you for what you do!!!
@OffGridGarageAustralia
@OffGridGarageAustralia Год назад
Thanks, Jason. I'm really in a nice spot with my setup. I'm grateful, I have the garage and can just close the doors in the evening just to keep going in the morning again. And I've got a supportive wife, so that helps a lot too...
@drfous
@drfous Год назад
Put a mini-split AC in your garage. You've got the power. I'm in sunny hot Arizona and put in a garage mini-split. Best investment ever.
@OffGridGarageAustralia
@OffGridGarageAustralia Год назад
I have no wall space to put it anywhere near the PowerWall.
@BradCagle
@BradCagle Год назад
Andy, I had the same problem with fuse holders like those, and fuses in general. I switch to breakers, and problem solved.
@OffGridGarageAustralia
@OffGridGarageAustralia Год назад
Ah, great to hear. Yeah, the combiner box in the roof space is now like 25°C cooler with all breakers installed. A further insulation of the roof in this area will bring it down a bit more.
@henvan8737
@henvan8737 Год назад
You are dealing with connections that are mostly over looked. I questioned the fuses in fuse holders all along. Anyway you have corrected this weak point now. Good job.
@PeterMilanovski
@PeterMilanovski Год назад
You can always put the fuses back in during winter for a bit of extra heat LoL....
@OffGridGarageAustralia
@OffGridGarageAustralia Год назад
Hahaha, yeah, I could actually 😊
@mausball
@mausball Год назад
I've been moving away from ferrules in compression connections like are found in main lugs, circuit breakers, and SSRs because bare wire provides surface area for contact, after hot spots were found on equipment in the field. Bare wire runs an average of about 10c cooler in the products I work on. Also, if you can pull your ferrules off, they were NOT crimped correctly. The ferrule should never be able to removed that easily.
@john_in_phoenix
@john_in_phoenix Год назад
I must admit that I wondered about that, I can't pull off my ferrules after I crimp them on.
@awo1fman
@awo1fman Год назад
The crimps were fine. When he squeezed them it was in an orientation that reversed the crimp. That's another reason why ferrules are not a good idea: a little mechanical force in the wrong direction and the crimp is loosened and you're *much* worse off than without them.
@john_in_phoenix
@john_in_phoenix Год назад
@@awo1fman Some of the first ones he pulled off he didn't need to "reverse crimp" was what I noticed. What can I say except none of the ferrules I've used could be pulled off by hand, I've always had to cut them off. Probably a good thing his weren't that way, since he didn't need to shorten the wires.
@mausball
@mausball Год назад
@@awo1fman I strongly disagree. A proper crimp should never slide off that easily. That would fail a pull test spectacularly. Read up on what crimps should be. I recommend starting with NASA-STD 8739.4A. Also, there are international standards for absolute minimum pull limits. For those cables, it's around 250N. Ref DIN 60352-2.
@mayterrace1971
@mayterrace1971 Год назад
These are edited videos guys, they will not show every detail, im sure Andy really knows what he’s doing. 👍
@PabloTBrave
@PabloTBrave Год назад
With all the excess power you generate you considered a 12/24v fan turning on when temp exceeds a certain temp installation on the roof directly above the connection boxes
@MarkPrince1317
@MarkPrince1317 Год назад
Always Learning good fron you so much useful information Thank you Andy your the best Best regards from Philippines 🇵🇭☕☕
@OffGridGarageAustralia
@OffGridGarageAustralia Год назад
Thanks a lot, my friend!
@AveRage_Joe
@AveRage_Joe Год назад
Love the Dedication Man!!!
@OffGridGarageAustralia
@OffGridGarageAustralia Год назад
Thanks Joe!
@manfredoort
@manfredoort Год назад
The torque will have a bigger effect on the temperature then if there is a ferrule or no. Maybe get a torque screwdriver. Nice video keep it up
@dig1035
@dig1035 Год назад
Farrell vs no Ferrell temp comparison interesting, thanks 🙏! Thumbs up and yes still subscribed!
@OffGridGarageAustralia
@OffGridGarageAustralia Год назад
Thanks a lot, Dig!
@dc1544
@dc1544 Год назад
Very interesting. Another great video. Did you see (EG4 Hybrid AC/DC Solar Mini Split Air Conditioner Heat Pump | 12000 BTU | Direct Solar Input) maybe those old panels could power it during the day to cool you Garage. I wonder if my MC4 inline fuses have much resistance. I finally got my solar all sorted. Only if I could get more days with sun as I am in the shortest days of the year and day after day full clouds. I am looking into adding a wind turbine since we have plenty of wind where I am at and solar for December in north USA only handles my loads if the sun comes out partially. I had to use Grid power for 2 days (10 days of shitty cloud cover). I could have done another day but didn't want to take my batteries under 50V. 50-54 is where I keep them.
@victorchorques4893
@victorchorques4893 Год назад
Thanks for the detail on the ferrule tests!! Extensive testing using the IR Camera (:
@rickharold7884
@rickharold7884 Год назад
That was super awesome, thanks for taking us through all the steps and verification. Love it!
@OffGridGarageAustralia
@OffGridGarageAustralia Год назад
Thanks a lot Rick!
@gregb1714
@gregb1714 Год назад
Mini-splits are good for air conditioning, efficient and also can DIY.
@OffGridGarageAustralia
@OffGridGarageAustralia Год назад
But where to put it? I have literally no wall space for such an installation.
@schunkelndedschunke6914
@schunkelndedschunke6914 Год назад
What I have learned from your video. Space between all components and cables are very helpful.
@dirk_p
@dirk_p Год назад
I'd like the self coaching "come on Andy"👍
@MoaningGit
@MoaningGit Год назад
I hope your liquid refreshments are staying cool, you forgot to show us that thermal image. Great video as always Andy 👍
@OffGridGarageAustralia
@OffGridGarageAustralia Год назад
Oh, yeah, they are very cold!
@kelgadeke5102
@kelgadeke5102 Год назад
Thanks Andy.
@OffGridGarageAustralia
@OffGridGarageAustralia Год назад
Any time
@SVImpavidus
@SVImpavidus Год назад
Computer fans. Watch our video on Victron B2B cooling. Great stuff as always. Ant.
@niclas.lindstrom
@niclas.lindstrom Год назад
It looks like a perfect day to calibrate a SPAT... ;-)
@davidkettell6236
@davidkettell6236 Год назад
Great informative tests Andy. i have seen many comments about not using ferrules but you have proved that it makes no difference .
@gumpster6
@gumpster6 Год назад
Interesting look at the heating of wires/connections. I think you were fine with the ferrules as nothing was improved without them. The only thing I could think of might be a small oscillating fan hanging from the beam and blowing on the power wall. You said it's only hot for a few months so an A/C unit seems like overkill. Great video as always.
@OffGridGarageAustralia
@OffGridGarageAustralia Год назад
Yeah, I will put the ferrules back on on these connections. Not a fan of bare wires.
@Sylvan_dB
@Sylvan_dB Год назад
Instead of a fan, a cm or two of foil back insulation under the roof - leave a small gap between foil and roof - will be a fine passive solution.
@OffGridGarageAustralia
@OffGridGarageAustralia Год назад
@@Sylvan_dB Yeah, that's what they tried with the cloths under the ceiling. It works quite well actually.
@FutureSystem738
@FutureSystem738 Год назад
Thanks Andy, all very interesting! 👍 It just shows how quickly a slightly bad connection could turn into a very bad thing.
@Arishomestead
@Arishomestead Год назад
I like your detailed tests Andy. 👍 We have -20 celsius and 50cm of snow, and no sun at all for a week😀 I would rather like to have + 40 and turnig heat into cold by runing air conditioner, than -20 and can turn cold to heat. Need to move to sunnier place for winter 😂
@OffGridGarageAustralia
@OffGridGarageAustralia Год назад
It's just crazy to think about the difference between our both places right now and the different problems we have. Stay warm over there!
@DaCat2
@DaCat2 Год назад
Hi Andy, try leave an air gap between the circuit breakers and see if that helps drop some of the heat soaking between components. Keep up the great videos, always a pleasure watching your videos.
@decibel_tastic2869
@decibel_tastic2869 Год назад
Yes, the moral of the story children ..is....space stuff out, to permit ambient air to circulate. From -1C France.
@fldutch
@fldutch Год назад
Interesting Video. Bought some Fuse-Holders and thought about installing them - in rainy cold Northern Germany ;). Maybe not. As i got to know recently: if you bundle cables in a duct, you have to adjust for wider cable diameters - even with DC-cables. I will watch that closely on my installation, when more DC cabling may go into the duct.
@OffGridGarageAustralia
@OffGridGarageAustralia Год назад
Do it and install them. You won't have any problems in North Germany with them. Yes, the cables are already oversized a bit and only a few are carrying large currents at a time, so not all of them heat up the same time.
@taulli1
@taulli1 Год назад
Fuse boxes are out, ferrules are in!
@tanishqbhaiji103
@tanishqbhaiji103 Год назад
One side of the MCB has the bimetallic strip which gets hot, the other side doesn't. And fuses and MCB have different types of thermal overload protection MCBs have a bimetallic strip which bends and trips the actuation mechanism, whereas fuses rely on the fuse element to get hot and melt away this breaking the connection, you typically oversize the fuse and MCBs if you want low watt loss.
@vickipps6821
@vickipps6821 Год назад
Thank you Andy for your very interesting program and a Merry Christmas to you and family have a awesome New Year
@OffGridGarageAustralia
@OffGridGarageAustralia Год назад
Thanks a lot, Vic. Merry Christmas to you too!
@michaelwilkes2519
@michaelwilkes2519 Год назад
Your video documentation is absolutely brilliant Andy. I'm sure it quadruples the time to do any task, but from a viewers point of view, it doesn't get any better. You show that anyone can do this, if they put in the effort to learn and don't mind hard work. Its a brilliant, practical hobby and I've found maintaining my very own power station to be wonderful. Next project for me... doubling my battery capacity from 15kW to 30kW. You are an inspiration Andy and in my mind, the best solar channel on RU-vid.
@JR.M.S
@JR.M.S Год назад
It’s so simple Andy. Just place some cold Spats on everything.
@OffGridGarageAustralia
@OffGridGarageAustralia Год назад
Great! I didn't think about that solution 🍺🍺🍺🍺🍺🍺🍺
@farside87
@farside87 Год назад
Thankyou Andy for all of these tests. I have also been considering the heat build up when I finally get around to building my system in Texas. Have been looking at plans of building off the side of the garage with a special room for just the power wall and batteries, and putting a mini split to keep it all cool during the hot summer days. Was also thinking of stepping up the wire sizes to prevent loss and to keep the temp down. You have shown that it might be worth the extra effort. Thanks again.
@OffGridGarageAustralia
@OffGridGarageAustralia Год назад
Yes, that makes sense and you're on the right track with your design. I'm constantly thinking of building this extra room inside the garage now. It would make so much sense in many ways.
@ricardomarcelino8388
@ricardomarcelino8388 Год назад
Great video and diagnostics. Great content... Cheers Andy!!
@OffGridGarageAustralia
@OffGridGarageAustralia Год назад
Thank you very much, Ricardo!
@acinfla9615
@acinfla9615 Год назад
Instead of throttling back your charging I would just get a inverter Ac unit. Having conditioned a garage is almost a must for me here in Florida during peek summer. Not just for cooling the equipment but me also when working on projects. Set it to 80 and it makes it tolerable even with your door open.
@masklessninja
@masklessninja Год назад
Great work! Thank you
@OffGridGarageAustralia
@OffGridGarageAustralia Год назад
Thank you too!
@gregb1714
@gregb1714 Год назад
For the charge controllers, I put a couple 1 inch fans to blow air up through the bottom of the heatsink. I control the fans with an aliexpress temperature controller with relay output. Probe attached to heatsink, set fan on/off to desired temps.
@OffGridGarageAustralia
@OffGridGarageAustralia Год назад
Yeah, but as I said, it won't help the rest of the installation...
@KillaBitz
@KillaBitz Год назад
On my charge controllers I run a small a small PC fan, I have it connected to a timer that I turn on in the summer. the fan just sits on the top and blows air over the fins at the back
@mcsg_pelecan
@mcsg_pelecan Год назад
I added a nut between the SCC mounting flange and the wall to allow for additional air flow across the back... Any spacer would do. Although you would think that your aluminum would help dissipate some heat as well.
@OffGridGarageAustralia
@OffGridGarageAustralia Год назад
The heat sinks on these controllers are massive and yes, the aluminium back wall could help or make it worse, depending if the sun shines on the outside wall.
@peteradshead2383
@peteradshead2383 Год назад
Lucky you !!! , here in the UK it is full on brass monkeys , freezing inside and out .
@a__133
@a__133 Год назад
As is in Lower Bavaria currently 🖖
@lucdesmedt7056
@lucdesmedt7056 Год назад
Andy, If you let a little air spacing between the fuses or circuit breakers they will not get so hot. Putting some small openings on the bottom and top of your fuse boxes will give some natural cooling. Good luck
@OffGridGarageAustralia
@OffGridGarageAustralia Год назад
I could actually space them out a bit as I still have two modules unused in these boxes. Holes in these boxes are not good! Insects will get in and start building a home.
@JPHER217
@JPHER217 Год назад
I wonder if ferrules would have been better,. Well the noark switches looks nice Andy:)
@jimm7165
@jimm7165 Год назад
Get a few of those PC slot fans to blow up through the MPPT heatsink fins
@OffGridGarageAustralia
@OffGridGarageAustralia Год назад
Yeah, but the rest of the system...
@nigelcharles511
@nigelcharles511 Год назад
Even in UK summer my Victron MPPT controllers were becoming too hot to touch. I fitted a pair of 90mm centrifugal fans under each controller blowing upwards. These are controlled using temperature controllers which I have set to cycle between 35degC and 40degC. They work well. With your higher ambient temperatures you would probably need to accept higher settings to avoid the fans with all the time.
@garys-half-baked-offgrid-dream
I would give all that a cuddle right now. It is -6c if we turn the gas central heating up to a comfortable temperature it cost £9 to £13 per day. A lot of Grannies are going to freeze to death this winter in the UK
@FutureSystem738
@FutureSystem738 Год назад
Putin is harming sooo many people 😢
@garys-half-baked-offgrid-dream
@@FutureSystem738 The UK energy crisis started well before Putin kicking off with all the uk energy retailers going bust and the price cap rise. October last year our supplier went bust and screwed us over, in January we knew the price cap was rising for the second time to 34p per unit that came into affect in April.
@butchwilliams7637
@butchwilliams7637 Год назад
Woooh, It's just hard to keep your hands off things you design sometimes. I'm that way. Good job Andy.🐸
@myparadiseonbantayanisland9030
@myparadiseonbantayanisland9030 11 месяцев назад
you could measure for a voltage drop across the fuses vs the circuit breakers.
@clint965
@clint965 Год назад
-10°C outside in Germany, but it can be the inside temperature as well. if things go bad here.
@peters8080
@peters8080 Год назад
While it is all rather toasty, i would say that You can be pretty content with those tests, shows you did your homework on wiresize, fill factor and termination. Nice. Ok, so active cooling, or build a dedicated passively cooled structure.
@OffGridGarageAustralia
@OffGridGarageAustralia Год назад
Active cooling incoming...
@batterynerd8779
@batterynerd8779 Год назад
You could use pc fans that push air from behind onto the heatsink of the mppt‘s.
@OffGridGarageAustralia
@OffGridGarageAustralia Год назад
As I said, and the rest of the installation?
@batterynerd8779
@batterynerd8779 Год назад
@@OffGridGarageAustralia install a fan into every device. The breakers dont really need cooling. You could still use your portable AC unit, but if you use that, you‘ll have to insulate your shed. Big difference.
@evil17
@evil17 Год назад
Great investigative work & experimentation Andy, the FLIR is a great tool for proving these theories. I would lean toward using a 50-60C thermistor on each controller with it’s own small/quiet fan or a larger one to do them all, independent fans would also let you know (optically & acoustically) which controller/panel set, is getting hotter at the different times of day. I like the idea of A/Con a sectioned off work area which includes all ur power wall gear, u have plenty of power to at least do this for the extremes & would make a good solar dump also, but I thought ur wiring @ 10-20C above ambient doesn’t seem too bad under those conditions. Getting accurate Ambient Temp can be tricky, as you know this can vary a lot by sensor location, I believe the correct sensor placement for ambient readings is supposed to be 1m (3’ USA) above the ground in a shaded position. As others have said, a piece of wood will help to insulate the Nuvi from the iron cladding, but I do think it will be hard to get accurate ambient temps in that location, being high and close to the shed cladding could influence it greatly depending on many factors, ie: time of day & if Rolla-doors are open or shut even, wind, etc. Walls influence sensors in a bad way also, in that they can slow the sensor reaction time & if sun hits the wall or ground near it can channel heat, even the gravel on ur driveway with a slight breeze could blow across & up the shed wall to give false readings, but you will get used to this anomaly of temp differences. It would be a nice feature if you could calibrate the Nuvi temp sensor in ur settings to give u a more accurate ambient temp on ur monitor, as u can with volts & amps in ur BMS’s to match ur main shunt. Congrats on ur 50+K Sub’s, always look forward to ur vids. Cheers
@Pey5531
@Pey5531 Год назад
I found the using the C45 copper lug for circuit breaker works much batter then ferules especially with big strand copper cable.
@johannesgross1732
@johannesgross1732 Год назад
Andy, I appreciate your methodical approach and explanations. Every video ist entertaining and at same time a great piece of teaching. 🙂 My experience is that soldering at these applications (high current) is not the best idea in order to reduce contact resistance. Solder is far less conductive than copper. Depending on the type of alloy the factor is 4 up to 10 while pure Sn/Pb is the worst. On other hand solder might migrate away from the pressure of the clamp. Such issues get important the more current we squeeze through lugs or clamps.
@OffGridGarageAustralia
@OffGridGarageAustralia Год назад
Thank you, Johannes. I never solder such cables or connections. That is definitely the wrong method and will cause trouble in the future. I always crimp.
@docelliott7229
@docelliott7229 Год назад
I suggest that you look at the current in each of your circuits. As all of your terminations are new and shiny, there should not be any resistance problems. Although you did see the difference between the fuses and the CB's. Therefore the only reason for temperature difference would be the amount of current through the conductor. I do like your presentation style.
@OffGridGarageAustralia
@OffGridGarageAustralia Год назад
Thank you. I can check all cables with my connected MPPTs, shunts and inverters/loads and have over sized all cables a bit to the max current initially designed for this system.
@oznerol256
@oznerol256 Год назад
Ferrules should be unnecessary with those breakers. That is because they have a fancy mechanism instead of a screw that goes directly into the wire. Ferrules are needed when a simple screw is used because the screw can push individual strands out of the way.
@friedrich-w.g.511
@friedrich-w.g.511 Год назад
As far as I know, if the Victron Solarcharger are over 40 C, they reduce the outputpower. I put a little fan on my charger controlled by the cerbo and a temp sensor comming with the Multiplus II.
@OffGridGarageAustralia
@OffGridGarageAustralia Год назад
Yes, that is correct, they will throttle down. I have not seen it yet. They still output close to 4kW, the max they can do, under these hot conditions.
@mediocre_moto
@mediocre_moto Год назад
How about some cheap DC fans (PC fans) to move some air over the hot components? Can be hooked up to a thermostat sensor. I've had some good success doing this instead of the huge cost and electrical overhead of installing a refrigerated AC. A little bit of airflow goes a long way!
@Micro_Gen
@Micro_Gen Год назад
Andy my MPPT fan turns on at 30oC and my wiring, disconnect switch is cool
@waylonhartwell
@waylonhartwell Год назад
Spray foam the entire garage and put in a mini split then you'll be comfortable in the entire building
@porter5976
@porter5976 Год назад
Did anyone else catch the hard drive magnets holding his USB cables? Repurposing at its finest!
@solexxx8588
@solexxx8588 Год назад
Put in a cheap mini-split heat pump.
@nathoilboy2053
@nathoilboy2053 Год назад
Hey Andy mount the Temp sensor on some wood then space it off the wood as an air gap and that should sort out that sensor.
@OffGridGarageAustralia
@OffGridGarageAustralia Год назад
Some insulation... good idea, thanks.
@turbosigma
@turbosigma Год назад
Drill a 120mm hole behind the chargers. Install 120mm fan on the inside of your aluminium, that will then cool the heat sink on the charger.
@excillisbank2611
@excillisbank2611 Год назад
Très bon test ANDY'S ! cette vidéo était vraiment attendu, car il y a toujours un grand débat sur l'utilisation avec terminaux ou sans terminaux..., personnellement je préfère mes installations avec des terminaux pour plus de sécurités avant tout cause des brins de cables, mais aussi pour un meilleurs rendement. Toutefois effectivement pour la chaleur au bout des cables parfois c'est de la même température et parfois la température est plus faible de 2 ou 3 degrés si les terminaux sont en pure cuivre et de bonne qualité. merci pour la suite.👍
@alexandergunda8916
@alexandergunda8916 Год назад
Andy have a look at the Noark Datasheet: the fastening torque of terminals is between 2 - 3.5 Nm.
@OffGridGarageAustralia
@OffGridGarageAustralia Год назад
Yes, I know. All breakers are torqued to their specs as I have shown many times in previous videos. Don't want to bother everyone to death...😉
@Crawfa79
@Crawfa79 Год назад
I sense a DC powered split air-conditioner coming, maybe ground mounted with your older panels?
@OffGridGarageAustralia
@OffGridGarageAustralia Год назад
They don't exist down here in Australia. Saw Will's recent video about the G4 or what it was called. Nice AC. I also don't have the wall space to mount one...
@electromechanicalstuff2602
@electromechanicalstuff2602 Год назад
We use small control cabinet ac units at my work. But they are all 3 phase 480 cabinets
@Stefan_Dahn
@Stefan_Dahn Год назад
4:00 You could also leave 5 mm space between the fuse holders. I learned this from a German "Elektromeister" 10 years ago in connection (😉) with PV installations.
@OffGridGarageAustralia
@OffGridGarageAustralia Год назад
Yep, I still have some space in these combiner boxes to space them out a bit...
@SVAdAstra
@SVAdAstra Год назад
Fuses have resistive losses that produce heat. They must in order to melt above their rated current. Magnetic breakers do not depend on heat to trip. Fuses are actually quite lossy. If you measure the voltage drop across a fuse running near its rated current, and calculate the power loss (P=IxE), it's actually rather high. You've made the right choice by substituting breakers. You won't get a valid estimate of the power loss through a fuse by measuring its cold resistance. The fuse link resistance has a positive temperature coefficient. To calculate the loss, you need instead to measure the voltage drop across the fuse with actual measured operational current while in the actual operational environment.
@OffGridGarageAustralia
@OffGridGarageAustralia Год назад
Thanks for your explanation. That makes sense to me. Breakers do have a thermal trip mechanism as well, so they will heat up too.
@mariostreibelt7516
@mariostreibelt7516 Год назад
Struggling with -5°C in the van here in Switzerland. And since it's so cold I can't discharge my LiFePo4 with my diesel heater
@mateuszmazur1482
@mateuszmazur1482 Год назад
I checked the resistance of my fuse (15A) and fuse holder (max 30A). Both are from EATON so rather good company and are designed for DC and PV. Resistance for the fuse is 8,8 mOhm and for the fuse and holder together, it is 9,3 mOhm. Multiply by the square of the current assuming max 15A gives around 2W of power and it corresponds to datasheets. So good quality fuses and holders are very important for power loss and heat. And in general, I recommend staying with fuses (gPV characteristic) as a first stage/level of PV protection. For the second we can use DC breakers.
@mytube7473
@mytube7473 Год назад
VIDEO IDEA: Hi Andy, love all your tests. Could you connect your NoArk breaker to a spare lifepo4 cell and induce a short and see if the breaker protects the battery from damage by testing its capacity afterwards. Thanks.
@OffGridGarageAustralia
@OffGridGarageAustralia Год назад
Thanks for the suggestion. I will have to stay away from any short testing with these batteries and breakers. I don't have the equipment here to safely do such testing in case something goes wrong. A garage is not the right environment for that. But we can probably have a 20A breaker loaded with 150A and see what happens.
@rogerandlyndabeall3840
@rogerandlyndabeall3840 Год назад
Measure the volt drop across the fuses under load
@OffGridGarageAustralia
@OffGridGarageAustralia Год назад
I forgot doing that 🤦‍♂️
@silverleapers
@silverleapers Год назад
Solar direct DC heat/ac pump...please get sponsored and show us an install.
@OffGridGarageAustralia
@OffGridGarageAustralia Год назад
There is none here in Australia.
@centerrightproudamerican5727
Keep in mind that the Amp rating does NOT ensure the wire will not get hot. It only ensures it will not get so hot that it damages the insulator or conductor. Also, many of the hot spots were at the connection between the wire and a device. This is typical. Do any of the devices have torque specs on the terminals?
@nateb3105
@nateb3105 Год назад
Paint the external walls & area with white paint - huge difference
@OffGridGarageAustralia
@OffGridGarageAustralia Год назад
There is literally no sun on the outside walls. The sun is straight up in summer. Through the other seasons, it does not matter as it is not that hot...
@nateb3105
@nateb3105 Год назад
@@OffGridGarageAustralia wow ok - so not radiating from outside. so then its heat rising from inside - insulation may make it worse, add ventillation at the top then?
@nateb3105
@nateb3105 Год назад
Power supplies/inverters, temperatures are CRITICAL!!! Arrhenius' Law of Chemical Activity: The capacitor’s life doubles for every 10 degree Celsius decrease in temperature. Caps are why most power supplies fail... keep working that temperature! Also the fuses are probably (correct me if i'm wrong) Ohmic resistors, so the larger the current the higher the resistance. Test to see what the resistance is at when they have current flowing - using a multimeter is probably best possible conditions & they'd be worse when running.
@salimnaufal1779
@salimnaufal1779 Год назад
Thanks Andy for the thorough testing. Why didn't you choose the 250 Volts MPPT from Victron? For the same amount of power incoming from the solar strings you have less current.
@OffGridGarageAustralia
@OffGridGarageAustralia Год назад
I have made a few video here on the channel about that. The main reason is: shading.
@Sylvan_dB
@Sylvan_dB Год назад
The thermal camera showed you a strong clue that it wasn't the ferrules in the breakers. * the wire showed a warmer spot at the breaker, cooling rapidly away from the breaker, both below and above the breaker. this indicates the heat is either from the connection or the breaker, conducted into the wire. the small size of the spot and rapid decrease indicates the heat is from further away. similar pattern ferrule and without indicates the ferrule isn't the issue. * the upper connections were warmer. This is partially expected (heat rises, heat from roof?) but may indicate heat is from the breaker. A correctly crimped ferrule should not be a significant heat factor unless high current relative to the wire size as the resistance added by the ferrule should be insignificant. But perhaps the terminal and the ferrule are not correctly shaped. A square crimped ferrule is better for flat connections. A hex crimped ferrule is sometimes better for round/curved compression plates.
@anthonyrstrawbridge
@anthonyrstrawbridge Год назад
Meine Mutter sagt, platziere die Batterien unten und VECC oben First, I would focus on the Batteries. I would put a heat pump on them set at just 30°c. Then I'd look at the VECC's and want to control the temperature at 20°c.. No? Three coats on here. Sometimes I think about just flying the Gulfstream down there this time of year. Maybe stop over at Fiji or Hawaii for a spell. But having this much money makes winter awesomeness Vail - Telluride - Jackson Hole baby!
@anthonyrstrawbridge
@anthonyrstrawbridge Год назад
The heat pump increases efficiency by lowering the temperature to where the battery cell und BMS generate peak power with good buffer for load and charge while the VECC need be cooler to extend the life of the fish oil inside which is stinky when burned
@Stefan_Dahn
@Stefan_Dahn Год назад
15:20 Metal surfaces are like "mirrors" for infrared light. So you measured your rood temperature, most likely. If you would paint it black (matte), then you would see the bus bar's own temperature.
@OffGridGarageAustralia
@OffGridGarageAustralia Год назад
Yes, we saw this in previous videos when looking at the batteries and shiny bus bars...
@rhendersbee685
@rhendersbee685 Год назад
Ta Andy. Your Victron solar charge controllers are a bit boxed in and the aluminium vanes are behind. Victron note the energy efficiency of its devices by temperature, and the fall off at 40' and 60' is considerable. Ceiling insulation makes a massive difference and the temperature gradient within the shed despite it being open will still be great. Lowering the charge controllers to the floor and setting them out from the wall may help. Victron I think suggests no ferules despite ferules being common in European wiring.
@ihorkukharchuk
@ihorkukharchuk Год назад
Hey! How do your panels behave? I mean you have a lot of them, what happens when your batteries are 100% and panels are still producing a lot of power and all that power has no place to go, as a bonus it's extremely hot outside. Do they overheat?
@OffGridGarageAustralia
@OffGridGarageAustralia Год назад
The Solar charge controller take care of that and control the charging of the batteries. If they get full, they turn off charging and the panels will sit there producing very little power (depending on your load). They actually cool down then as there is no current running through them anymore.
@ciciedee5474
@ciciedee5474 Год назад
With a proper crimp, you get a cold weld . The crimp should never be able to separate. The working of fuses and breakers depends on heat.
@awesomusmaximus3766
@awesomusmaximus3766 Год назад
I use an industrial exhaust fan temperature controlled and a vent fan in the battery box
@danielp5208
@danielp5208 Год назад
Hey Andy, love following here, even though I've completed my own setup months ago. I can't help but think that you could simplify your setup A LOT with using a Deye string inverter instead and your system would work much more efficient. You have an insane amount of thick gauge cables that could all be eliminated. I am running a 36kW system(3x 12kW inverters and 43kW panels) and the panels are connected with 6mm2 cable, 8 strings, around 450-650V each, but very few amps(13 MAX), so no thick wires required even though my runs are long(+100m). The only thick wires in the setup are the 50mm2 going from the inverters to a common busbar and then connected to my 3 Seplos Mason 280Ah DIY kits. Running high voltage strings also further has the benefint of not needing breakers or fuses as you are not paralleling anything, you could never go over the rating of the panels and you can make do with a simple on/off switch if you want the ability to cut each string(I did this). A single SUN-12K-SG04LP3-EU/AU could handle all your panels and all your batteries, 15600W solar input and 12000W charging up to 240A@48V. It also has a true off grid output creating it's own net and a gen input which can also serve as another output if need be.
@OffGridGarageAustralia
@OffGridGarageAustralia Год назад
Thanks Daniel. A string inverter won't help and will be far less efficient in my situation. I have a lot of shading on the roof and the parallel strings work a treat. I have a string connected array on the house and it is far less productive in partial shading. I have a made quite a few videos about it here on the channel. The low voltage parallel strings have more cables and connections, true, but the overall yield is insanely high.
@danielp5208
@danielp5208 Год назад
@@OffGridGarageAustralia Hey Andy. If the shade is enough to enable the built-in bypass diodes it shouldn't matter much. If not, then perhaps coupled with optimizers.
@alanblyde8502
@alanblyde8502 Год назад
Superb fault finding Andy👌 Do you think having MPPT with standouts would make any difference so cooling fins have air around them?
@RichardSteigmann
@RichardSteigmann 11 месяцев назад
5 degrees between upper and lower clamp is by convention. IR thermometer works poorly with shiny metal. Make black with Eding before measuring 👍😎
@bloodcarver913
@bloodcarver913 Год назад
Yeah...always use ferrules.
@OffGridGarageAustralia
@OffGridGarageAustralia Год назад
Yep, big fan of ferrules. Especially with these large cables.
@regnerusb
@regnerusb Год назад
You have a new fan!
@KevIsOffGrid
@KevIsOffGrid Год назад
I'm in -5 degrees here now, batteries at 10 degrees. However currently 27 in the truck, wood fired stove kicking out heat to get the right oven temp for cooking my food :)
@ithames2753
@ithames2753 Год назад
It seems that your equipment and cabling gets only 10-15 degrees hotter than ambient temperature at full 70A of current. That's actually quite impressive!
@edwardvanhazendonk
@edwardvanhazendonk Год назад
It might be the breaking wire in the fuse holders will heat up under load, what A are they rated for?
@Dutch_off_grid_homesteading
@Dutch_off_grid_homesteading 7 месяцев назад
Heya, yeah I guess you have to cool your instalation in summer the rest of the year it will be oke
@GapRecordingsNamibia
@GapRecordingsNamibia Год назад
Hi Andy, With me, where we also sit now with 40 odd C temps I have mounted 120mm fan over my MPPT's and it makes a difference that much I can tell you. I have it so that 3/4 of the air goes behind through the heat sink and a 1/4 over the front case, it helps a lot having active cooling, I've hooked up the fans through the VGX and have DIY'ed with the LM335 temp sensors to switch the fans on and off via temperature measured from the MPPT's heatsink. My MPPT's do not have temp relays so yours I think do and could be controlled from the MPPT Firmware....
@SkypowerwithKarl
@SkypowerwithKarl Год назад
I don’t think many others have a clue as to how much copper you got around the power system$$$. Congrats on a cool system. Go big wire or go home 😅
@OffGridGarageAustralia
@OffGridGarageAustralia Год назад
Yea, it must be a lot. Due to the parallel strings on the roof, the sparky used around 200m of double 4mm wire to connect all the strings.
@wa7215
@wa7215 Год назад
Welcome to Summer, in ‘Sunny Australia’ Andy 😁 If you really, want to ‘enjoy’ just what that truly means, I would suggest that you try a little experiment like sitting inside of your ‘steel-sheds’, with all, of the doors closed, on a sunny Summer’s day, at midday, or even anytime from about 10am onwards, should suffice, to give you a very quick and clear understanding of just how, a stuffed XMAS Turkey feels, while it is sitting inside a kitchen oven while being cooked in preparation for XMAS lunch…! 😉😁
@OffGridGarageAustralia
@OffGridGarageAustralia Год назад
Yeah, hahaha, I know how hot it can get inside. The panels on the roof make already a huge difference, keeping a good portion of the heat away. I will fully insulate the roof at some stage, but that's future...
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