I'd say if you have the space to take your time with the older motor, throw a new one in that possibly has a warranty on it and steadily rebuild the old as a spare, maybe even sell it in the future? Regardless, you have yourself an excellent opportunity to really learn that bike inside and out
@@PeaJayYt I'd be very interested in watching the series. The only other complete teardown for an R1 motor on RU-vid is on an older carbureted model done by SupermotoJohn
This engine (09-14) is very strong, but in extreme cases this might happen. I would rebuild this one, it's just a few parts and the engine itself looks in great shape. Buy a second hand engine, but rebuild this one to spec.
This brings memories. But my engines were Kawasaki KZ 1000s. I had the same choice you do, get a new engine and/or rebuild the old one. Since I was drag racing them I took the later option. Having a second engine ready to bolt in was why I won the state nationals in 1975. Two engine's are better! Carry on Dude. T.
Don’t forget to put the shims in that stop side to side play in the crank or the balance shaft will hit the crank and it will snap VERY COMMON PROBLEM there’s a lot of videos on it 👍
Harbor freight 4 leg engine stand, and a bar of 3/16" x 1" flat bar stock steel to fab a motorcycle engine stand. We do this in our race shop all the time. Properly designed you can flip the engine over to remove the bottom case half too. Don't use the 3 leg engine stands as they tip over really easy. The 4 leg is overkill weight capacity wise, but they don't tip over like the 3 legger. You can use your existing engine case bolts or get a section of GRADE 5 ALL THREAD, and cut to length.
first you have to find the cause of the bearing failure before rebuilding the old engine or you will be back to square one with a good amount of money wasted
Keyboard warrior here, so take what I say with a grain of salt. Isn't there an issue with the R1 motor not having proper mitigation of thrust on the crank? There is a known (Yammie hasn't acknowledged it though) issue that has caused cranks to actually break in the exact same spot, and your failed bearing is in that same area. That thrust could have caused that bearing to rub on the crank and get that smoosh out the side of the cap. That might give you a cause, faulty engineering, but maybe it's something different. Good luck getting it fixed m8.
@@tommydillon4931 except yamaha didn't actually fix the problem. the newer engines are also failing. not sure what is causing the cranks to break. I don't agree with "the workshop" videos that he thinks the cranks are hitting the counter balance shaft. as both ends are identical but only one end he claims hits the crank and binds it up. there's to many variables and the fact the counter balance is much less mass so it should bend first. not the other way around. he doesn't address the fact it can hit on both ends but no engine has ever broke on that side. he also has only looked or seen 1 crankshaft in person. this means he has little to no data on the type of damage on the parts of other engines to come up with an explanation. and his model he 3d printed is more than likely not even remotely close to the real engine so his demonstration is very misleading. I do know there is an issue but I honestly don't think it's what he claims to have discovered. if he could demonstrate it inside an actual engine case then he may change my mind. a sloppy 3d printed model that isn't even assembled correctly doesn't convince me at all. and EDR performance said the 2016+ engines are also breaking cranks. so that throws out "the workshop" theory of the thrust bearing fixing the problem. it didn't fix anything. the 09 to 2014 models have a oiling system issue. they often spin the #1 connecting rod bearings. the 2015+ seems to only be breaking cranks. and it's random. some guys have 20K+ miles on theirs and some break in 2k miles. some break with less than that on the track. and it's on both stock and built engines. I think there is a major design flaw in the block or the crank to be honest. until I see or hear about an aftermarket crank breaking or causing the rubbing issues in the block I will stick with my theory that the crank is a flawed casting problem due to a bad mold design. I worked in a foundry and know all too well that a mold with the wrong design will cause poor castings. there is a lot of engineering that goes into the mold design and the engineer has to take a lot into account for the metal type being used and how it solidifies in the sand molds. then the foundry has to get the metal chemistry just right. if it's being done in china all bets are off on quality. they probably aren't even forging the cranks if they're supposed to be. I will bet you $100 yamaha isn't making those cranks. they build motorcycles, they don't own foundry's. I would bet if yamaha put some kind of testing of these cranks in place the foundry is pumping out flawed crankshafts with porosity or the way the molecules are flowing in that area during pouring are causing a weak spot. where I worked sometimes the castings look just fine but upon an x-ray there is air pockets and the casting is scrapped. then there's the fact that 14,500 rpm on a 1000 is a hell of a lot. I backed my rev limiter down to 13k. still high for a 1000.
@@blue03r6 The balance shaft has thrust bearings, so no lateral movement. Balance shaft web only hits one end, the engine would have to spin in reverse to hit the other side of the crank web. It's not the hitting of the web its the sideways force., putting large tension forces on the bearing journal this is multiplied by the distance from the edge of the web to the journal failure point. Drop forged steel is relatively weak in tension, would start as a crack and then spread.
I'm sure this has all been sorted by now a year later, but if I had the funds I would have purchased the other motor, and rebuilt the old. Then sold it to help recover the costs. Some suggest certain year R1 engines have a bad design regarding the crank and was resolved in later years.
To anyone with knowledge. Bought an 07 r1 and recently started hearing a knocking/clanking on my right side (believed to be just inside crankcase). I think it’s a loose rod/spun bearing. Anyway to remove crankcase from bike, replace the rod/bearing and reinstall without dropping the entire engine?? TIA!!
I'm thinking like a mechanic check if the crankshaft still on spec and get a new bearings and rebuild that engine is going to be cheaper the get a used one the can blown the bearing again.
hello friend, I want to ask, I have a yamaha yzf R1, but I want to use it on the airplane, because the engine conversion yamaha aircraft is not allowed the crank engine is directly connected to the gear shift, so my question; can this yamaha r1 engine be separated from the crank connection to the engine. gear shift? if possible I would disassemble my engine further separating (removing) the connection to the gear👍
Since it was a rod bearing and not a crankcase bearing I would just rebuild that one. You have plenty of time and you will know exactly what you have. Even with a warranty on a different motor you still have time in replacing and playing.by their rules if you want said warranty to be good when needed.
you cant just rebuild 1 you need a crank and a matched set of weighted rods. really its cheaper to purchase another engine, done it many times over 45 years in repairing bikes , and R1 is my baby .. Have a great day.
Got a question, i just picked up a 2006 R1, and I'm needing to replace the rod bearings. Is it possible/able to be done to leave the timing chain attached when I split the case? or will I need to do a complete tare down to prevent the crank from possibly warping/ jumping timing?
Years ago. Bought 81 GS 750 e in the exchange free paper. Get to sellers house. Sitting out side under a bike cover . And I see some parts underneath. Pull cover Black 4100 miles on it. Looks like the day it was bought off showroom floor. This is 1996. Metzler tires the heads off.jug still on.the pipes the Head carbs underneath. Dude says it was my roommates he bought it new. It spun a rod berring . He started tearing down. He moved few years ago. It's been the same spot for 12 years. We stay in contact.I can get you paper.I got it for 100.00 bucks.Took it home. The #2 barring I I fixed it. I didn't have to take the bottom end out the bike. If the herring didn't fall the crank. Polished it long strip Emery. Put berring in.top end gasket set. Put access plate on bottom motor..The carbs we're fucked. From sitting outside.bad crosion.I wanted to hear it run. Oh I found a bassani header wracking yard I got it for 25.00 those were the days.Took some starting fluid..hit the bottom and sprayed. Sounded sweet.
I’d say those scars are a little too bad. I’d replace engine and maybe see about getting that one cleaned up. But I’d definitely not just throw new bearing in that. Because the new bearing would probably almost immediately start turning.
The crank is nitrated and won't work if you machine the journal.. so get a new crank bearings to match the case letters and new crank letters a new con rod and good as new
Call it an engine first off old buddy not a motor! Lol. Seriously though i give you props for even attempting that repair its alot of work and it can be a headache . I for one would source another engine its easier and less to worry about.
Find the cause of the bearing failure , look if you can do / modify something about it ! Depending on the Situation if you can do something about the failure , then keep the bike if not then go for another brand!!!
@@PeaJayYt All i saw was a video of you driving four hours and picking up a motor. I was hoping you would of posted a video of an actual rebuild. Buuddddy
@@mikeg3529 that could be an interesting point never owned an R1 but i always see videos of this issue, my mate also had one for a while and this happened to his bike it only covered 21k miles was serviced on time as per Yamaha's service intervals at Yamaha, its also on the tip of every ones tongue when you talk about an r1 to other bikers may be a design flaw who can say one thing i can say is i will never own an r1 i think there over rated much prefer a kawasaki zx10 or a bmw s1000
So what ist the solution in this case, is it enougt to change the toasted rod bearing and clean the engine? or you have to change the crankshaft and rod too because it got hot (change even the colour). Ofcourse the thermal impact change the property of the material, but i think the crankshaft can't not get broken if i use it again (dont using my bike on racetrack). I think Kevin Chamberlain (comment below) ist right its a design flow, so the engine per se ist ok. I'v got exactly the same problem in my RN04, its a verry old bike and investing in/buing all new parts or "renewed" engine is not meaningful because uneconomical, so i wanna repair it really cheap :D Verry cool video, thank you! Sorry for my English ;)
Moto-P I need to replace the bottom half only of my crankcase. When you had the engine apart, does it appear that the bottom half can be removed while the engine is still installed after dropping the oil pan and pump? Looks like the only issue with it would possibly be the transmission. Trying to avoid having to drop the whole engine to speed things up.
Take out the crank, measure it and find out if it is in tollerance, if not...decide if you want to have it machined with the with the correct bearing or just replace the crank with the oem original and bearings who come allong... AND USE FUCKING GOOD OIL AND DON'T DO REV'S TO SHOW OFF...
@@PeaJayYt yeah that may be the point...... or may may be the low oil wheelie... i don't know.. but if the engine is in warranty u should change it.🙂 coz that i can see is whole lot of mess in your garage.
