The Red Knob 5.7+ and anchor building 

This is so true

From what I saw doing this could get you killed :(

@@johny79action You're not wrong, rock climbing can get you killed

Thank you! I appreciate the comment! Hoping to film more this year!

Thanks for the comment! This is a super common question for those transitioning to trad. The reason for the extended sling is so the rope has more play and the piece doesn't "walk" out of the crack. If you keep your draws short there is a likelihood of the rope influencing the position of your piece. Hope I explained it well!

You can, but adding the extension prevents movement in the rope from pulling on each piece of protection preventing them from walking and either falling out or getting stuck.

Cams have a tendency to walk if you don't extend them. As you climb past, if you don't extend the gear, the cam may move out of place. If you extend it, then the sling will move around freely and leave the cam in place.

Unless you have a good reason not to, extend every gear placement with a draw. An extended placement decreases the likelihood of the load in the event of a fall being away from the direction of pull, so your cam will work as designed and expected. If you fall on an unextended cam the load may have a changing direction, think you start to weight the cam before you reach the lowest point in the fall. This makes the placement extremely weak unless there is excessive slack in the system. Unless you are in a splitter crack where all placements are deep and all falls are dead vertical, or extending the placement would lead to a potential ground fall, extend it! 3 injuries in the gunks in the past month that Ive heard of would have been saved if the climbers had enough extension.

Just a personal preference if you like cams or tricams or nuts or hexes or ball nuts just use them.

I climb in the UK and its a big difference. I almost always reach for my stoppers over a cam if I have the choice.

Yeah hard to tell from the video but there's no way in hell you'd be able to sling that horn, not nearly as prominent as it appears in the video. At 5:30 I knock on that lighter piece of rock.... that's because I ripped that piece out a few years earlier. Rock quality is pretty sketchy at this site

This route has a rappel anchor about 3 feet up and to the right of my anchor. My partner and I scrambled up to it to rappel. In this area there is also the option of walking back down to the bottom via a trail.

@@Hiker1792 so does your partner grab all your anchors on his way up?

@@JGstunts22 that is correct! I belay hin from the top and he will clean as he climbs.

@@Hiker1792 thx , I'm just thinking about starting to climb . Trying to learn

the second cleans the gear. or if you second is climbing after you, you rappel down and clean it yourself. you can walk around and down the cliff at this crag. you can also loop your rope around a tree so both ends are on the ground, rappel down (cleaning if no second climbed after you), and then pull the rope down. this cliff is only 80ish feet, so a nice single rope rappel to the bottom.

Generally, this risk of a "back clip" incident is much higher with the short, stiff dogbones that are on sport draws. The sling on an alpine draw will rotate relatively freely, and make a that incident unlikely. However, alpine draws may introduce other risks. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-TrlKLS9eK28.html rockandice.com/climbing-accidents/gear-rips-leading-climber-critical/

The key thing to notice about that placement is how I put the spine of the carabiner in the direction I was headed. If I fell off and the gate was on that side there's a chance the rope could open the gate.

I thought the long sling made sence. Seemed like he was over 10ft from the last piece of protection. The long sling put him back in that 10ft area? Just a thought. 🤔

Usually, the lead climber anchors in (as you see in this video), then the belay the follower up. The one following pulls the gear out as he/she is belayed by the person who lead. If you place nuts instead of cams, the follower will have a nut tool to aid in pooping out the nuts.

TheRandomSpectator Hexes and nuts differ in size and shape. look em up and you'll see. Hexes can also have a slight camming action depending on how you place theme, nuts not so much. And for what gear you use when, it's whatever works. The rock determines that for you, and most of the time there's only 1-2 pieces that will fit in any given placement.

TheRandomSpectator Nuts only work in constrictions i.e. where the rock narrows and the nut can wedge in. A cam can grip a parallel sided crack and also allows for protection in multiple directions (nuts lift out when loaded upwards) what you use depends on: 1. Direction of pull 2. Size of crack 3. Shape of crack 4. Whatever you happen to be dragging up the wall with you. When you climb trad for the first time, find someone who knows exactly what they're doing and watch their every move.

yeah i felt like he had no need to add draws to some of the cams

Ok, can you explain your reason why you think slings are unnecessary?

Come on bud I'm anxiously waiting for your answer! I've only been climbing for 6 years I don't know what I'm doing!!

i wouldnt generalize by saying slings are unecessary...in fact they are necessary in most all situations. I only meant to say that for several of the placement you made in this video the extra line created by using the slings on the cams would create more slack hence more exerted force on the cam in the event of the fall. Basically, using the sling on many of the placements did not help you by relocating the rope for the remaining climb, as i think you were meaning for it to do, it instead made the cam placement more likely for a pull out in the event of a fall. did i explain properly? or should i edit?

So I agree with you on a few things here. First of all yes when you extend any piece of gear you are taking the risk of a longer fall and therefor a more forceful fall. However, the dynamic property of the rope, my belayer getting lifted and the very slight dynamic properties of a nylon runner all work together to lessen the forces on the piece of pro. Now could I have just clipped in a shortened draw and kept going like I did for my first pieces? probably. I like to fully extend my placements for 2 reasons. The first is rope drag. By extending pro it helps the rope run in a straight line and keeps drag to a minimum. The second and in my opinion more important reason why you want to extend pro is to prevent it from walking in or out of the crack. If I had clipped the rope directly into the carabiner on any of those cams there would have been a higher risk of the rope playing against it and either causing it to walk deeper into the crack (getting stuck potentially) or walking out, yikes!!

I definitely could have left some gear on the ground especially since I've climbed it in the past. I was trying out that racking system for the day and didn't like it. I now rack my pro on my harness and for multi pitch I do ditch the extra biners and just put the slings over my shoulder. I do rack a few draws with both biners on my harness for nuts though.

Johny Action looked like a pretty bomber placement to me

You can drop a truck on that one... as long as u dont blow out the whole ledge... The Hex nut aint giving...

@@happysnacktime I was more confused by the massive extension for no reason

@@Logibox0494 True true. Unnecessary?