On the net you can find many advices about servicing your wristwatch. Some are based more on faith then on facts. In this video you'll find 5 myths around watch service plus some informations how to trade serviced and unserviced watches
The real problem is when you buy a cheap vintage watch--it's really hard to justify a 200€+ service for a 50€ watch. So I'm happy I found a watchsmith in Estonia who services watches for 15€ (really). I send him all of my
The best comment was at the end Tim. Watches are the worst investments. Even though purchased few for that reason in the past I never sold them. And as someone said... “ I have a passion for watches, I have to convince myself of stop buying more...”
Mechanical watches have an inbuilt service indicator. They stop working. Then you service them. Unlike a car engine, which will suffer badly from lack of maintenance, a watch has such low dynamic load it simply stops or keeps poor time when it needs servicing. Then all you have to do is decide if it's worth the cost. Seiko 5, maybe not, Rolex yes, but it will cost!
Thank you for your honest and frank comments. I also think it is worth mentioning that there are competent watchmakers outside the major brand service departments. I'm not sure how that effects a watch's warranty, but the cost can be half or less for the same service. That's exactly what I did with an older Seamaster that I purchased used. Sent it to a small, established watchmaker who took it apart, cleaned and lubed it, then timed it, for $175 US.
Makes a lot of sense, with humour, as always. Your comment about watches vs. shares as an investment apply equally to property. People never count their maintenance costs, taxes, etc., when they consider how much they "made" on their flat or house.
If you have a watch with one of the common movements (Seiko, Sellita, ETA, Miyota) and it just stops working, it may be less expensive to buy a new movement than to do a major service. I've done this twice for older watches that I really liked, and both times managed to find replacement movements with black date wheels, fixing the annoying white date on black dial.issue.
If you couldn't find one, wouldn't it be minimal effort to take the black day and/or date wheel from the old movement and swap it onto the new? I mean, you already have the watch apart, and the dial and hands removed....
Unfortunately, by my experience and experience of some other people, buying an unserviced watch can bring lot of pain. Usually, they are delivered in working condition, but they fail after month or two, and then they need a proper service which for luxury time piece may take 6 months both at the manufacturer or at the local Watchmaker expert. And what is worst, the watch may return from service with a defect (which happened to me), and then again there is another couple of months of waiting. At least by my experience, buying unserviced watch from a unknown seller on ebay is too much risk, unless maybe it is a Rolex or Omega which tend to be quite robust. Finally, these used cheaper luxury watches have no papers, and brands like Zenith and Rolex will not service them at all, then you have to find a local Watchmaker which is good, but then he tells you he cannot restore the original specs, he can only do ca. - 15/+15 s/d on a Rolex watch...
One other comment for the cheaper end of the spectrum (where a full service might cost more than a new watch) -- If you like your watch and don't want a new one, look into the cost and difficulty of just swapping out the movement for a new one. Given so many watches use NH35 or NH36 movements, these can be bought for less than $100, and you can either install it yourself, or pay a watchmaker to do it. Given most of the cost of a watchmaker is time/labour, it is much faster to swap a movement than tear down, replace parts, and rebuild one.
Thank you for another great video, Tim. I humbly suggest your audience considers investing in an inexpensive multifunction timegrapher. For anyone who buys vintage watches, a timegrapher can be a wonderful tool in letting you know if a service should be considered.
Hey Tim, there are variety of companies out there that sell the No. 1000 Timegrapher including Weishi and Ace, but the one I purchased on Amazon is labeled simply Timegrapher; www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0081SSJZG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1. I believe they're all the same unit however, just with slightly different exterior cases. For $135, it's a great tool to have. Not surprisingly, a few of my low end Seikos showed noise on the Timegrapher screen indicating possible issues (although they run fine). The Timegrapher did genuinely come in handy though when I purchased my first Rolex, an Explorer 1 from 2003, when the unit let me know there were some issues with the watch, so I returned it. Here's a video I've found helpful: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-lcCKrioYKMo.html. Please let me know if you have any questions, and thanks again for all your great content!
I got a 1981 citizen automatic watch at a pawnshop for about $25.00, and sure enough it was running awfully fast, + about one hour!, useless. I live in Mexico though, and the watch guys service cost was only $40.00, now the watch runs perfectly. I don't have any luxury timepieces and I don't know if I would take an expensive watch to them, but I think I'll take advantage of the low cost here for sure. Great video!
I have a collection of most high Horologie vintage watches including a few German. Mainly Swiss. I have a private watchmaker who services them every 10-15 years. Everything works perfectly for the last 35 years. No problems at all.
IMO, If you can afford a Patak, Lange & Sohne, or Rolex or any other watch over 10k at the bottom of your list of concerns, right below which dog foot to buy, is the cost of servicing them. On the other hand, if a collector of high end vintage pieces then that item on your concerns list is considerably higher due mainly to the scarcity of parts. Lastly, if you own just a couple of high end watches but collect more mid range vintage stuff then you may want to learn to service them yourself, which is what I did. In doing so I opened a can of worms because now 10 years later I absolutely love working on them and have learned a so much about the many different facets of watchmaking, it's history, and the industry in general that it blows my mind. It's truly my favorite hobby but certainly I'm no "professional" by any means. However, I did pick up a friend's 1979 Rolex Datejust non-runner the other day and am having the time of my life servicing it. My bet advice is find some old beaters buy some great tools and start taking things apart and put them back together but most of all enjoy the failure.
Maintenance free watches: no winding, no battery change, shock proof, no adjustment of seconds, perpetual calender, 100% reliability... they do exist: Casio Oceanus
I simply live by these guidelines..... I buy brand new watches ONLY so I know the exact condition at all times.... Should anything occur, or regular maintenance be required, I ONLY send to the OEM....Original Manufacturer. While the watch is gone for weeks at a time, I let THEM decide what to do and always have them polish. I NEVER use private watch makers because I don't know any well enough to trust. In 40 years of wearing Automatic (Rolex) Watches, I've had no issues handling my watches in this fashion. Thanks Tim!
Could you state how often you send a watch to the Manufacturer? My experience with Rolex is that most of their watches runs an entire decade without problems. Do you second that?
Caseback Watches Yes, 10 years easily....so while they are gone, I have the works performed....whatever that means. I only wear Rolex due to ruggedness and good looks in an automatic watch. NONE of these are special priceless heirlooms....that’s why I include polishing too... I find it silly that people chase the old ones. I own the old ones, but only buy the new ones.
Your guidelines are bad. Every time they are polishing the watch, and you lose material, and at the end the shape of the design. If you buy brand new you pay often far more than a watch that was pre-owned for one year and is still in great condition. The Brand that was building the watch is not always the best for servicing it. As example if you send a vintage Omega to Omega, they will change a lot of original parts and you lose a lot of value. While a independent qualified Watchmaker will keep the watch as close to original and help it hold its value. Also independent Watchmakers are often cheaper (and better if you find good ones) I'm pretty sure the Rolex you own would be worth more if Rolex haven't serviced it and changed parts. With parts, I don't mean parts of the movement that are worn out (that makes sense) but things like dial, hands, bezel and the case.
CleverSmart123 You simply don’t understand another person’s (me) perspective. I’ve been in precision machining/grinding of rotating aircraft engine parts for 40 years, so please don’t try and school me on metals and metal removal. In addition, I only have any of my watches polished once per 10 or 15 years.....so I can live with loss of metal for a cleaner look. I buy only NEW because I would NEVER wear a watch worn or owned buy ANYONE else....unless from a family member for sentimental reasons. Pay attention now....watches have NOTHING to do with MONEY for me.....I don’t giph a phuk about sell price, investment value, resale, etc. Watches are simply shiny trinkets to me (and many others). You’re placing your personal value system across others to whom they don’t apply. Thanks for playing!
mrg1911 I have to politely disagree. Some watches I buy new, some I buy used (ones that they don't make anymore). But I would NEVER want to own a watch that has been polished, and it has nothing to do with loss of material. For me, watches are all about the design. Being such a small, intimate object that you look at many times each day, every detail is amplified. It's important to me that the design retains its original sharpness. When the edges become rounded and the lines become soft, the design is ruined. I'd rather have an original watch with a few dents and scratches, than a shiny, rounded blob on my wrist.
Great programmes and I really like watching your channel. I have a question. Where to service your watch? For example are most manufacturers do their own service or is it contracted out? For example does Tissot do their own service, or do they contract it out. Is it better to send to Tissot watch manufacturer or any good service person will do a reasonable service. Long question, but appreciate an advice from you. Many thanks Wigen
I keep a log of when things were last serviced and what not. I just bought a Nomos and I think if anything, I will be more cautious with taking that in to service over my Seikos or Hamilton. My Seiko SARG011 was worn EVERYDAY outside in the elements and didn't need an oiling for 4 years. Thats pretty good! My Hamilton H70455533 that I got from Jomashop didn't make it a year before it needed service... Helicopter rotor is no good
Tim, modern synthetic watch oils allow extended service intervals. And watches like rolex with screw down crowns crowns keep contamination of the movement to a minimum.
Not really. Rolex Daytona cost around the same due to their complication. It is a misconception because people judge the price tag of the watch with the servicing.
Very interesting video as always Tim. Thank you. My titanium Breitling aerospace really scratches easily. It's lightweight as well as hard but just seems to scratch.
There's a difference here between considering a factory service for a new watch from a luxury brand, and older watches. As the owner, it will cost you a lot more to wear a vintage watch until it malfunctions rather than get a regular service (at a far more reasonable price than luxury brands charge). For one, it is much easier to keep an obsolete part clean and oiled than wear it out and then attempt sourcing a replacement. If you are running a watch dirty and unoiled, bushes and pivots wear out of round. Again, more costly to rebush a mainplate/bridge or replace pivots in an obsolete escape wheel rather than keep originals clean and oiled. This goes double for flattened obsolete balance wheel pivots.
I have a Tag SEL that I bought off a friend that never wore it ( he purchased it in 1995}. I serviced it in 2000, 2005, 2010 and then it sat in the dresser for a good 8 years. I recently sent it in this year just because it’s been a while. And to my surprise, they said I needed a new crown and tube, again. I’m not hard on my watches, even my daily beaters but each time I sent the watch it, it seemed like they were recommending excessive repairs. Now I have 2 subs and recently sent them in for service, one was $1000 (COA, crystal and bezel insert) and the Blusey was $2500 (COA, crystal, bezel insert and bezel). The Bluesy I purchased from a local jeweler and this was its first service with me. It was more than usual because the bezel was damaged and it had an after market bezel insert. I like to take them to the RSC because I get a better comfort feel for the watch...now I know every piece is genuine. That’s what sucks when buying from anywhere other than an AD - there are shortcuts the sellers do to make the watches presentable for sell and we can’t always tell. I thought I was pretty good at spotting aftermarket parts but this one slipped passed me. Love your channel!
I live in Greece and I went to the rolex service center its an old watch when I took it it worked perfectly they told me that the watch had been serviced outside of the official service center which is false also the lady in the front desk told me that besides the 450euro service I need to pay 3and a half grand to fix it (she said a lot of things are broken and the dial needed a service and that alone costed 2000)i said its an vintage watch she said that the reason the watch does not work then I understood that she was trying to scam me as the watch was working perfectly for a month that I had it so I took it
Sinn quoted me 411 euros not only to fully service my watch but also to refinish the case and bracelet. That's cheaper than many independents in the USA charge just to service the movement. Shame that many of the much more expensive Swiss brands don't treat their customers with the same decency.
I am happy to report a company that doesn't take part in the service scam: Sinn. I was looking to buy a 144 that ran well but hasn't been serviced since new, so I asked then what it would cost to service and they responded with the price but that there was no reason to do so if it runs well.
I'm pretty new to watches, and I've been mystified by the entire idea of watches needing periodic maintenance. Without abuse, they are inherently reliable machines...especially relatively modern ones. There must be a psychological need in some people to make them want to do things like this. Possibly it makes them feel like the watch is more special, and maybe by extension that they are more special as well.
Philip J Would you drive your car until it runs out of oil so you can save money on servicing? In my opinion it all depends on the price of the watch. The cost to service a $10k Rolex and a $50k Rolex isn't that much different, but relative to the purchase price there is a big difference.
Put the watch on a timegrapher. The only parameter you care about is the amplitude. If the movement runs strong it is healthy and doesn't need a service.
meanwhile i was so unlucky... got my used el primero in Singapore for SGD4000 and it broke down the moment i got it.. but lucky found a good watchmaker to service for 450 and without parts replacement.
Great video Tim! I also never get my watches serviced without an issue. I have one question: Do you let your watches service only by the manufacturer or do you give them to a local watchmaker too? Thank you very much again! Ulrich
I do this when i know up front what the issues are or what the issues very likely are. I've bought and sold a bunch of slightly older motorcycles, and I know upfront I'm going to have to by tires pretty quickly and likely most maintenance items.....but fortunately i can do the actual work myself.
Actually, I believe that watch($2k)+service($650) should cost more than $2650 and not less as you didn't count in the service time. Buyers who buy watches without the service and then sending them to the service should wait to their watch to come back and by buying watch with the service you actually skip this waiting period.
You should try to find an independent watchmaker in your town. A service for an ETA movement is about 200 Euro. The Seagull around the same price. Of course it's questionable if this makes economic sense. But my experience with those watches is: Either they break in the first 6 weeks (under warranty) or they run years and sometimes decades without any malfunctions.
Hi I have a Lange 1 I bought it oct 2019 it’s 15 yr old I had it for 2 months admiring it lots then one day the crown fell out after I noticed that when I just touched it that the hands moved forward so I sent it to A Lange n sohne instead of where I bought it and to get it serviced I got told it had been treated badly and it would now cost $7000 Australian dollars do you think that a a good valuation
Ein brillantes Video. Bitte verzeih mir wenn ich das jetzt in Deutsch schreibe. Ich denke darüber nach mir eine Vintage Datejust (1970er) zu kaufen, dieser Vintage-Vibe spricht mich einfach an. Allerdings bin ich etwas zwiegespalten, weil ich gerne wüsste wie das in Zukunft mit eventueller Ersatzteilversorgung gegeben ist... Vielleicht bin ich da etwas paranoid, aber naja... Was denkst Du darüber? Du hast ja auch ein paar schöne Datejusts... Was würdest Du mir raten? Danke schon mal, ich finde deine Videos echt gut, erst gestern entdeckt...
The solution is simple, buy a microbrand watch with a NH35 movement, every 10 years buy a new movement and replace the old one, the movement cost much less than a service and you can do it yourself.
I took my 14yr old rolex to the AD for service as it was running +13 secs fast/day. Cost a lot of money, i think £500ish. 14 months later its running +9 secs fast/day. Well outside of COSC. :-(
Caseback Watches probably not. For it me it also depends on the watch and if it’s even worth the service. I have a few Seiko automatics that I wear and love, but I’ll probably just wear them until they break and possibly buy a new one
Tim don't try to use logic to the idiots who buy so called luxury watches. Most of the watches are just stainless steel and sapphire crystal which costs less than $100 per watch. The name on the watch well that's $1,000's. If they want them serviced every 5 years let them. A fool and their money are easily parted.
