Laje da Avalanche - (Avalanche's slab) - Vila Velha - Espirito Santo Known by local fishermen as Baixo do Pacotes, the slab is part of an archipelago of three islands plus the bench that would be a fourth submerged island, according to them. "Imagine that the surrounding depth is more than a thousand meters, and suddenly it drops to four meters", explains Lucas Medeiros. The change in depth causes large southeast/east swells to violently break the bench.
This is the only comment on this video that matters. Bravo @gfrancischelli In my experience, this wave looks like Shark Island, Shallows and Spot X rolled into one, and we dont even have upwellings like this reef on the East Coast bar a couple of talked about slabs that I haven't had the pleasure of riding...
LOL, what makes it worse is that it all happens in slow-motion. He had what seemed like an eternity to ponder his doom. Waves warp time. I've been in that spot. Every surfer has. Not on a slab, but a heavy shallow double-overhead semi-point freight train barrel. It's worse than free-falling into the impact zone or going over at the tip of the lip because you sometimes get shot into the air or out in front of the wave by the explosion, then just steamroll a bit or if you're really lucky pop up behind the wave. But getting pulled over by a lip that's already penetrated the trough, if it's shallow you're gonna get drilled into the bottom and probably sucked back up and over the falls again. My record is three cycles on one wave, hitting the bottom hard each time. I've seen guys come out of the water with broken ribs. That's why surfers push themselves, the power, the danger, the rush of adrenalin, the STOKE.
My uncle use to live right across from the beach to it and I always saw bodyboarder literally paddle all the way to the break but I never knew where they were going. 15 years later i discovered this is it! Next time I go to visit my uncle I want to take a boat there just to watch this beast and maybe if I want to put an end in “my life” give it a go lol
Those you saw paddling were probably going to another point, on Praia da Costa, called D2. Much closer to the coast at 1.5km. Avalanche is about 4km from the coast, and good waves only occur in very rare and specific conditions, unlike D2 which is much more regular and accessible.
My city is beautiful and hospitable. There are beautiful and educated people. And to top it off I see this incredible wave from my window. Itaparica Beach - Viila Velha - ES - Brazil.
You Brazo’s are nut job’s. When you dudes first started showing up at the Jetty in Ocean Beach San Diego Ca. round about 1980 we used to have issues with you in the line up. Breaking your fins out, chasing you out the line up. But you keep your head down and waited and took scraps until the El Niño of 1983. Other than your wide stance you didn’t back down. You showed no fear took off late on Rock waves, took some serious poundings on bounce waves. I’m stoked to have made some of my best friends during those years and fellow waterman. Then in 1997 El Niño took trips to Killers. Todos Santos. Those sessions can’t be replaced. Much Aloha Brothers 1502
yeah it takes balls to lie down and hold on. please if you want to reply to this, at least understand i can surf and boogie board well, i have a frame of reference to compare them to each other. not one surfer has written back to me, i'm guessing they either don't care at all or agree, and the only replies are from boogie boarders. if you can't surf than don't comment about it
@@mysteriouslyenigmaticbodyp5602 hating on sponging is a thing of the past. I don’t care how long or how good you are at surfing. If you can’t show respect to ALL water sports your not a true water man. Your just another stick in the water.
@@nakana_212 I respect things that are difficult but people still do them. you've mistakenly read my comment as though I have disdain for people of lesser skill. not the case. I merely think celebrating mediocrity is stupid. you can keep doing it. I'll keep fighting the good fight. I don't drop in or hassle boogie boarders over any other type of water craft, but I have little respect for what they do. I respect them for wanting to have a go, but if people start worshipping people for lying down and holding onto something I'll probably say something. your comment won't change that. why would I respect things I find easy? I respect people who do things I can't or that are clearly difficult. I bet you're one of those blanket statement people that say retarded things like "all women should be respected", or "we live in a free country". am I right?
@@nakana_212 having more knowledge and skill about the ocean doesn't make me another stick in the water. it makes me an exceptional surfer, exceptional boogie boarder, fisherman, tow surfer, jetski driver, Thundercat driver, spear fisherman, I swim with sharks (cage free) including whites, tigers, etc... I'm an exceptional waterman, the only thing that would come close is my talents in the sky. I'm a pilot, professional skydiver, BASE jumper, paraglider, speed flyer, and I am a god of the sky and ocean. I do not respect people that get praise for doing things easy. call me crazy. IT IS EASY TO LIE DOWN, ESPECIALLY WHEN YOU'RE HOLDING ON. saying that I went for an early surf today with two of my best mates, both boogie boarders. I don't respect them for that, but I do respect them for many other things, and I don't judge them for boogie boarding. people read my comments as though I'm on the verge of tears or something. my comments are completely earnest and have not emotion behind them. they are simply things I believe and want to pass on. my biggest pet peeve is "bodyboarding waves". really they are just waves that take skill to surf, and as bodyboarding is a matter of lying down and holding on, and the risks are far less, there are many more people willing to do it. no surprise. those so called "bodyboarding waves" are the waves I look for. any surfer that uses that phrase can't surf
@@mysteriouslyenigmaticbodyp5602 actually I’m Native Hawaiian and my ancestors have been wave riding for centuries. Paepo’o is one of the most beloved forms of he’e nalu(surfing) in my culture and it resembles what is presently knows as a bodyboard but made of wood. The level of difficulty isn’t why we ride waves. It’s the spiritual connection and relationship with the ocean that fuels our love for wave riding. Am I still one of those “blanket statement people” for respecting and loving all forms of wave riding just the same as my Hawaiian ancestors did?? Is that not a good reason for you?? Try and have some Aloha towards others who don’t want to ride waves the same way you do.
@@mysteriouslyenigmaticbodyp5602 imagine talking shit about guys paddling into something like that, when the only way standups can ride it is by using jet ski’s. Way to show your ignorance. 😂
@@jimmyrussel5606 hahaha my ignorance. so he can't use his legs but he kicked into it? ok. sounds pretty special. you're right my hat goes off to the quadraplegic charger. wow
@@Elloguvanah So sick man I’m from New Mexico, (noooo water) and I’ve only had the opportunity to surf a couple times out in Florida. So needless to say these look huge to me 😂
Haha, you mustn't be a surfer aye bruv? This is what water looks like after storms and rain. Considering the size its gotta be a storm swell. Its probably near a river mouth too. Go check Mavericks.. Or even Bali after rain.. Its almost always this color in giant swell first few days after the main storm. As are MOST decent breaks and beachies. Normal. Not so much sewerage. Haha. 30% of surfing involves this color water.
That first wave forming looks prehistoric, because it probably is. Stay safe out there fellas. And by fellas, I mean "crazy mofos". Wish I was learning about this stuff 25yrs ago.
