The Rise and Fall of Burberry 

My grandmother - Elsa Marie Burberry (after whom I am named) had a great saying "If you feel inferior it's because you are). She was the wife of one of the last two directors of Burberry's, Arthur Ralph Burberry. With whom she had a son , Thomas Ralph Newman Burberry, who was a Mink Farmer...Chairman of The British Mink Society. A member of this family I have been dismayed at the downgrading of this Brand. It isn't , never was meant to be worn by 'Esturial England'. Too grand , too exclusive. The original tartan has been mucked about with. Burberry was never suited to The Catwalk nor to the Mass Market Place. Burberry looks good in a Bugatti Royale , in a Morgan 4/4 , but not in a Ford Fiesta.The Brand is unique.I don't have one !

In my opinion, the best era of Burberry was Christopher Bailey's era. Everything was done beautifully, elegant and classic pieces that were not terribly trendy, the era of the early 2010's was their golden age. I'm excited to see Daniel's Lee take on it and whether or not we'd get back to that Burberry.

I remember my grocery store manager mom bringing me a copy of Australian vogue when I was 13/14 and there was this full page ad of newcomer Sam Riley in a Burberry coat, brooding in the cold out in the woods somewhere. I fell in love with this coat. I knew there was nothing quite like it because even back then my eyes - which would not be able to tell luxury from fast fashion- could recognise the quality, the tactile tweed fabric, the warmth, the clean lines through this BLACK and WHITE ad. I showed the picture to my 11 year old brother in awe, who fell in love with this coat just as much. It was decided, this was the first piece of designer item we would get when we become rich. To own burberry, was akin to being embraced by the English upper echelon. Oh to walk briskly across London town, on a gloomy afternoon in my grey Burberry coat. I carefully cut out the ad and to this day it sits prefectly glossy inside it's clear sleeve, waiting to be hung on a wall, or pasted onto a scrapbook or displayed at a gallery. But i keep it to myself. Offcourse I'm an adult now, I can let go of this piece of paper and go buy myself a coat. But my fulfilment of teenage dreams can't be bought with money. I'll never be able to buy what Bailey and Co tried to sell me all those years ago with their glossy pages, modeled by hot, young, not yet established, British, creatives like Roo Panes, Douglas Booth, Rosie Huntington, Emma Watson looking moody but snuggled in those thick heavy coats. That and the Australian weather would make me look like a fool. As for my brother, the keys to his BMW hang on a Burberry key chain.

I didn't know Daniel Lee went to Burberry, this is all super interesting to see. Personally, I have a positive opinion of Burberry's coats/jackets in particular. I went to a major outlet mall a few months back and was surprised at how low the quality of materials were in most of the luxury stores - I know it's on purpose, but it was still shocking to experience. And since I'm blind, quality of material is a really big proponent of buying expensive clothes. So I was particularly impressed with how nice their outerwear felt. Especially with Daniel Lee joining the brand I'll be pining for a jacket

Honestly the whole time Bailey was CD of Burberry was its golden era. I remember epic, very emotionally touching Fashion Shows or perfume ads. Burberry used to be my favorite back in the day. Let’s hope it will get its resurrection :)

I was not aware Burberry invented Gabardine - thanks for educating me, I love learning about textile

I'll never forget being on the bus in London and seeing Burberry's AW 11' campaign with Jourdan Dunn and Sacha M'baye plastered over the Burberry shop in Knightsbridge. It was amazing! The Christopher Bailey era of Burberry will always be my favourite, it really was something special.

I would so wish that you were my Fashion History lecturer❤ Loved and enjoyed every video, so well done, meticulously prepared and researched, articulate presentation, and all the vintage photos and news. I really think it’s almost perfect and absolutely professional. Thank you so so much!

Wow that’s exciting! Going to bed now but this is the first thing I’m watching tomorrow morning enjoying a cup of coffee

The FW10 shearling coats and the following collections from Christopher Bailey was pure gold. I miss his designs so much and I hope to see him in other fashion projects in near future!

It’s been so interesting to observe the ups and downs of Burberry over the years. I have a few pieces I’ve collected over the years but my impression was that they were really struggling in America and on a decidedly downhill trajectory. Then this past spring I went to S. Korea and it seems to be absolutely booming there. My pre-owned Burberry Brit puffer bought from TRR fit in perfectly. Know thy market!

I just want want to add that I adore your videos! Your videos, especially this one, are amazingly well done. They are well-researched and charmingly presented. You make the history, heritage, and timeline of the fashion house or label so riveting. Great to see the vintage pictures and ads; the way you highlight text is such a creative and effective presentation device, and I love your voice! You sound the way I imagine all fashion people sound! LOL!

I really liked Christopher Bailey's Burberry of the early 2010s. Seeing those Emma Watson campaigns were chef's kiss for me in my 20s.

LOVE this video. Please do one on The Row!

I was literally looking at vogue runway app at DL’s collection when the notification flashed for this video. Yay!! Thank you for the great timing bc I’m a little perplexed by Lee’s presentation…I love the styling with the gigantic hats, hopefully faux fur, great statement to differentiate from past seasons. And the initial coats are so strong!! But it’s more relaxed than I expected, in silhouettes and fabrics. And Im confused by the diagonal checks, or maybe I just don’t like the use of dark secondary colours, green and purple. I had been expecting to be immediately thrilled, anything would be better than RT. But I’m going to have to look at it again!

I remember Christopher Bailey's era and how popular Burberry was back in those days, those trenches with leather sleeves became a meme, cloned and copied everywhere.

Personally loved the new direction. It felt quite fresh and youthful and I would love to wear a few of their coats!

A very well-researched documentary. Thank you . . .

Just finished watching the show. A lot to be desired. Very few garments felt elevated, few aspirational pieces. It skewed very young, alienating a lot of other clients that were probably looking for more polished pieces.

love ur channel! Great videos

Another excellent video! I enjoy them sooo much!

the collection was really bad 😭

I just found your account and I'm so excited to watch every one of your videos! I love fashion history and you explain it in a way that's easy, interesting, and just gives so much more context on the fashion world.

This most recent Burberry show made me sit up straight in my seat. Talk about a breath of fresh air. Can’t wait to see more from Lee.

An interesting and well-researched yet succinct video on Burberry - a good listen.

Excellent analysis as always, your research and commentary is astounding! I sincerely am very upset at companies just throwing away their entire identity in some short sighted bid to “be relevant” but in doing so becoming utterly generic, stale, and bland like every other company. At that rate, make a new line, don’t destroy what makes up the entire essence of what you represent and what has attracted your customers to you Thank goodness Burberry had this awakening and backpeddled. Hope they all learn before it’s too late

I really loved Burberry during Christopher Bailey's tenure. It's one of those fashion shows that I was excited to see on fashion TV or on RU-vid. I was saddened by his departure from the brand. I specifically remember when Burberry changed its logo and I knew right there and then that it wasn't going to go well. It's like the brand lost all its prestige and glamor with just that one misstep. Tisci, while a good designer in his own right, was not a good fit for Burberry. I'm really hoping this change with Daniel Lee is a step in the right direction.

I have to say Daniel's output at Burberry is aesthetically pleasing. I am a stockholder at Kering and LVMH to justify my spending on luxury goods. I have since retired from purchasing luxury items as I have too many.....but Daniel's recent designs at Burberry are tempting.

Excellent review! I just got a couple of Burberry dress shirts and love them.

I agree with you. The runway show starting at around 19:05 is a great direction. I think if it all comes together can do well over here in the USA.

Love your channel! Great content. Would love to hear your thoughts about Visvim. And also, the brand Magnolia Pearl. Wondering if they are in the rising, falling or the resurrection stage...?

The early to mid 2000s looks are just awful. They couldn’t go toe to toe with other luxury brands of that time. The early 2010s and Bailey’s last collection were def an improvement. Daniel Lee’s collection is my personal favorite. Love the nod to British punk rock too. Can’t wait to see what Daniel does next.

Very exciting to see how Daniel Lee transforms the brand

Fashion is creative in its every molecule. The idea that a 19th century home counties raincoat maker can turn into what it is today is remarkable, but a transformation that seems to happen often in fashion. I can't think of another industry where a brand can evolve from anything into a new idea.

Yes! I personally think that logomania boom can be credited to 2004 YA American movies (Burberry print, Louis Vuitton, Fendi, Dior monogram)

I love the new line!

❤ very excited to see what’s new at Burberry❤

Great video

i think Tisci-Burberry was a case of a house-designer mismatch Burberry just solidified it’s image as a heritage brand and Tisci turned that upside down when he injected his Givenchy touch into Burberry. Suddenly Burberry was churning out streetwear and a lot of modern/young aesthetic which was out of brand for Burberry and almost harkened back to the chav culture Burberry was desperately trying to distance itself from. Burberry lost it’s heritage when the EKD disappeared from the designs and replaced with that horrendous ‘TB’ monogram. Burberry also decided to go away with its recognisable font and chose to go with that Sans Serif font every fashion house was using. Daniel Lee seems to know what he’s doing by recognising Burberry’s heritage. Him choosing to resurrect the EKD by putting it front and centre on Burberry’s campaigns is a good first step. I’m excited for what’s to come.

This video touches on two really fascinating topics (1) Asian tourists, and (2) Design houses relationships with the Asian Market. I wonder if you can elaborate on this relationship, maybe even a whole video. Where Asian buyers get their spending power, how they as consumers influence primarily European markets, how designers are incorporating Asian culture - Lunar New Year, Mid Autumn Festival - and spokes people.

I saw, I click, I watch, I love.

I live in Southeast Asia and wasn’t aware about the chav culture situation before. It’s a shame because the Burberry check is cute! Beige, black, and red go well with our black hair and clothes. Now it feels ruined for me😂

Can you provide a link to the research paper in 05:15

Can you do a video about Mark Jacobs!

When we talk about Burberry I always feel sorry for Mackintosh. The ORIGINAL inventor of the rubberised cotton coats 🧥 I feel like they aren’t as well known, when I went to their store in London it’s so much smaller than Burberry’s palatial retail space, and that was Mackintosh’s only retail space in Europe. They do most of their trade in Japan though. The stores there are much better 🇯🇵 I hope you can do a video about Mackintosh sometime! 👏

Interesting I had a couple of bits of Thomas Burberry never quite knew its relationship was to the main brand. Explains how they ended up in TK Maxx. I had a legit Burberry suit I picked up in a sale 20 years ago I wore through the seat of in the end I wore it so much. I think it was navy with a brown/red pinstripe.

I was excited to see Daniel Lee's changes, especially in handbags. The collection and handbags now have a coheseiveness and pair well together. The collection is elevated updated wearable streetwear that supports the looks of Lee's diminished "TB" logo and replaces it with just the right amount of fresh branding details and hardware. I am looking forward to his new tote interpretations as well as everyday luxury handbags.

The ig livestream at the end 🤣🤣 but yeah I agree the new logo that Ricardo created and the B print was a bit meh but very of the times, like they leaned into that aesthetic seemingly over night which was a shocker

Thanks for the video! I personally loved this show and looking forward to see these pieces in the stores! There are already few pieces I want to buy 🥰 I am so glad Burberry is going back to the British! I didn’t buy anything from RT’s collection cuz I am not a fan!

This is an exciting new chapter for Burberry. DL presented lots of bold, graphic and unique pieces that are going to photograph beautifully!

Lol I could care less about fashion brand talk but you somehow made these videos so interesting I binged nearly all of them in one night. Good stuff!💕

It’s FASHIONDAY and You’re watching UNDERSTITCH✨

I remember when the Burberry trench was the poor man's Aquascutum trench. This is long before it went viral/boo. The most recent scandal I paid any attention to involved the brand dumping countless thousands of unsold items into landfills to avoid becoming available on the secondary market. As if anyone cared by then.

Finally one on burberry!! Armani and Tom Ford next?

Are you planning to do a video on Armani? :D

Nigo next!!!

i love your channel

I'm so glad Burberry got rid of Tisci. I've ignored the brand ever since he took over. The one thing that should be consistently present in any Burberry collection is its 'Britishness.' Tisci never got that. So, in my view, his tenure was an epic fail. In the States, Burberry's rep isn't as wide-ranging (nor as damaged) as it was abroad. Soccer wasn't big here when the chav culture reigned. And the Burberry 'check' is almost the only thing that Americans recognize. Again, that 'Britishness' is key to success here. Most Americans are insular and haven't traveled the globe. But I think that well-made clothes from THE British fashion house from a country with such sartorial heritage is a winner.

What a great change. Love the new logo. Brought back memories of Tomas Maier at BV. It was such an elevated time for menswear before the onslaught of street wear.

ricardo tisci was a mistake

Waiiit waittt at 11:14, is that Freddie Windsor? Omgg, 90s Burberry really said: Poshhh!

a great video

Burberry have almost completely eradicated Roberto Menichettis legacy from the house. He put into place what Bailey would then build on. An incredible designer whose pieces are just as modern today as they were 20 years ago.

This new line of Burberry is fabulous and fun. The pop of color raises the level of fashion to a modern look.

I doubt if that What I just saw will shake any tables here 🤔

I personally love Tisci TB monogram, but I understand not everyone like it. For me, burberry will forever have a hard time to move on since everyone expect them to keep tradition. People hate change, change can be scary.

Give us this day our daily rain 🤦🏻‍♂️

I skipped through this video to see if you'd mention chavs/charvs because as a Brit growing up in that era, I still don't know anyone my age (30s) or up who would wear Burberry. Going to watch properly now =]

There was a large helping of Adrover early 00's archival references in this latest collection by Lee (especially in look 06 and 08), however, I'm none too mad about it as it's great reference point and it feels fresh currently. I also appreciated his take on the staples of English countryside /romanticism in a grunge way. It's very understated and it feels appropriate for this moment I would say. Although, I will say that although that while the floral dresses towards the end of the show were pretty they felt very much like a nod to Erdem and a little lazy (just saying). However, aside from that, again, I felt it was very lowkey. There were suprisingly no statement accessories whatsover so it will be interesting to see how that that component evolves in the seasons to come.

Your videos are just so extremely well researched, well paced and eloquent. I’m in awe!!

The leadership of Angela, Stacy and Christopher at Burberry was amazing and indeed truly the golden era of Burberry in terms of design and innovation.

Why do so many designers have their runway models perform the jerky, aggressive "stomp-n-klomp" style of movement? The time is ripe for a designer to capitalize on this by having her/his models move gracefully as they traverse the runway. It would be a welcome change (or reversion).

I used to love society perfume by Burberry -80s- 90s! Those where the best times

So...am I the only person that kinda likes the Burberry monogram print??? 😭

Growing up i had one of those Burberry trench coats :)

Do you know why Bailey left the company? Was he fired or he just moved on to something else?

The new collection by Daniel Lee? - I only remember the fur hat and the diagonal check. Still Exited to see what’s come next. Tisci new logo and print was extremely tacky. And I only see influencers with his designs. I still see Baileys designs on the streets here in Copenhagen. He’s era was legendary. Many thought that Burberry needed something new - that can be very healthy. But Burberry was my go-to-brand when thinking about luxury and looking at great cuts, beautiful colours and ‘casual chic’

No mention of Angela Ahrendts?!?

What is the history of the Belstaff brand?

I knew Daniel could give well made, well finished clothing but tbh I was worried it might be a bit of a safe, bland, yawnfest taking no risks. Thankfully this was full of character, a very British character, it had playful elements and odd elements too. A battiness, a kind of eccentric heritage that brits recognise. Very promising debut cos I see the Burberry guy/gal they're going for and it's a real person. This had a very modern louche refinement a relaxedness I loved about Bailey's Burberry but with a touch of the bombast of genz.

Their tartan pattern together with Louis Vuitton logo and color scheme are just one of those things that give me the creeps: they are supposed to signify style, but their image is just so laughably ugly and it's like one is erasing one's individuality in lieu of wearing this recognizable merchandise. So you are basically saying they are sinking? Good.

I'm so excited to see where Daniel takes Burberry going forward. Ricardo Tisci's time made the brand quite tacky in my opinion. Daniel is the right person to bring a healthy dose of coolness to the brand.

I have a vintage “Burberrys” era trench. ❤❤❤

The main problem with Burberry that has cussed lots of people including myself stop buying their products is price. Their stuff have skyrocketed in terms of pricing. Just few years ago I used to buy their shirts for less than 300$ now same shirt is 800$, their polo used to be around 200$ with sale I remember even buying them for 100$ each now they are 500$ and absolutely no sales whatsoever. They are definitely not in a place of Hermes or Dior and more importantly people are not stupid!

I heard a rumor that Armani has its clothes made in North Korea is that true?

Absolutely agree, I lost interest when Tisci was creative designer but I loved him for Givenchy, I didn’t understand the direction for Burberry and being that it’s a very traditional brand, I didn’t see any classic nods 🤷🏾‍♂️ the brand just needed a mix right down the middle of classic / modern and Daniel Lee did that straight away so I’m fan already!

I hated the rebrand by Tisci. Did like some of their advertising and some of his surrealism but Daniel Lee seems to be bringing that Britishness back. Also the use of British models and actors is back and I’m so happy to see that.

The collection was underwhelming. It’s not hard to get a trench coat wrong but he managed to.

And Oscar De La Renta❤

The first collection is okay, it's alright. The styling is not that exciting. I imagined he will immediately release new bag with a bang but I missed lol. The footwear are so bad. But the new trenches are fun. The prints are nice (those ducks make me giggle). He will be okay at least.

I remember seeing a book everywhere called Chavs: The Demonization of the Working Class by Owen Jones which has a Burberry cap on the cover. No matter how they rebrand, I personally can’t get over the link with the chav culture in the U.K when I was growing up. Younger people don’t have that association and I envy that.

daniels collection was just okay imo, im sure it will sell okay with the younger clientele they are reaching for who will be able to afford it

The collection was okay, I feel like Burberrys plan is to create “it” accessories. So, I feel like a bunch of influencers will be pushing these accessories in the coming months.

This video is very good and I’m a fan of all your content. I just have to speak up on your comments regarding “chavs” and “chav culture.” Chav was not a subculture, it was a classist term to demonise the working class of the UK. Burberry and its clientele weren’t put off because those wearing the check were “aggressive” or “antisocial”, it was because poor people were now wearing the same clothes as them and it disgusted them. There are lots of resources out there in regards to classism in 00’s Britain which I’d advise you look into if you want more information.

Daniel Lee started modestly, but I enjoyed the approach so far. Excited to see what comes next.

Burberry in 11-14 was definitely it's rock star era

To me, it still doesn't feel like Burberry has resurrected. The elegance and heritage of the brand died when Christopher Bailey left. It's such a shame, as the house used to be one of my favourites. Thanks for the video though!

I ❤️ when Burberry is very British 🇬🇧 I’m loving it again

💙💙💙

I worked at Burberry in London during Tisci’s time, it was very disappointing and none of the staff were fans of the designs.