Please don’t stop making these overly detailed videos, they are beautiful, they teach a lot and they are greatly appreciated by us starting luthiers. So don’t apologize, on the contrary, we THANK you!
a year late but, i did the first thread inserts on a cheap guitar successfully on my first attempt, you just need the right tools, a good space to work and time/patience. it's not that hard if you put attention to every step. Of course the right tools are important tho
I think it is important to be very precise and detailed in building guitars, it matters in the end result. Therefore, I definitely appreciate seeing the right way to do this. Thanks.
These videos are for the benefit of perhaps those less experienced luthiers starting out and I REALLY appreciate the effort that you go to and the amount of information that you teach. So thank you Steve. Especially during these lockdown periods which allows me to get on with it!👏
I definitely structure my videos to the beginner...although sometimes I come up with some out of the box ideas that benefit everyone. Sometimes I surprise myself! ;-) Glad you are enjoying my videos.
Though I don't think guitar players will take off their necks that often and guitar makers will spend extra time installing bolts instead of screws, you do demonstrate how a perfect neck joint can be and explain why of each step looks like, and the reasons behind them are the most precious and important experiences you spent time sharing with us. Very much appreciated!!!
I have been building guitars for several years as a hobbyist, but I still watch every minute of your videos. I enjoy the detail that you provide as well as your subtle humor. Thanks Steve.
The time you've taken to carefully explain what can go wrong using this method to secure a neck is vital information to us all if we are to avoid making the same mistakes. If people want to leave your video after just 10 minutes then that's their loss. I will admit that I intend to do my neck joint this way but didn't foresee some of what you have shown me so, I personally thank you for the long video and taking the time to explain everything in such detail. Don't ever feel you need to apologize for being thorough. Great job 👍
This is one of the most, if not the most, highly detailed, comprehensive, accurate and honest video i've ever seen on this specific topic! Strongly informative, you kept me glued to the screen till the very last second! THANK YOU!
Greetings again, I ran my mouth on this fine page a few days back. I would like to comment again and say I've watched this video a couple of times and it looks great. The fit, attention to detail. Nice work. Some of the better boutique builders use bolts like these on their steel string acoustics now. Robbie O'Brian has said he can't tell the difference with his ears. And the inevitable reset down the road is way easier. I am a fan of Romanillos wedges with very little glue. That's another subject. Good contact between the components like this example always sound great. Thanks for a great way video.
I will add a vote to loving the detailed descriptions. Those are the things that separate making a "playable" guitar and one that is the best it can be - and often leading to a BETTER playing guitar!
This is absolutely excellent material. All the tiny details add up to a beautifully completed project. The beauty is in the details. Picking up all kinds of little helpful tips here.
i love these long videos very detailed for the guys and gals that want to do this on their own the longer the better thank you for the video i appreciate it
I am a woodworker (joiner) also making my own guitar, and I also watched it till the end. I can confirm, that your measures of detailing the process is right, and necessary for those who hasn't got much experience. So don't be shy, reveal the details, someone has to do that! :) 90% of "how to" videos are just a overcut visual magic bullshit, always leaving out the crucial details, jumping to the finished process, and are no good for anything than wasting other peoples time. So you are the refreshing exemption, keep on detailing! :) And THANK YOU for doing so!
Thank you for the kind words. I think most don't go into as much details for two reasons. One...it takes more time. It takes me about 10 hours to make a 30 minute highly detailed instructional video. I don't do as many videos as most RU-vidrs...because I don't have the time or energy to do that many. I try to make what I do count. Two...you are in the minority. Most people aren't looking to learn...they are looking to be entertained...and the shorter videos sell better. However...I do what I do because I am a detail guy...and a teacher at heart.
just discovered this video so anyway.One thing i discovered in drilling precise holes with a drill press is,not all drill bits are perfectly staight.Chuck the drill bit and start up the press and watch closely to see if the point wiggles,if it does the hole you make will be larger than you intended.Either use the point of a pencil or nail or ? and solidly put the point up against the point of the dill bit to check runout or drill a test hole on a blank piece of wood first.
Thank you! This has saved me a massive headache, I had no information and was about to "upgrade" a partscaster that im modifying/fixing on the fly. Great Video!
Great video, I use the same method to drive my inserts into the neck but I chuck the bolt and nuts into my drill press and use the downforce of the press while hand turning the chuck. I really like your videos and it's because of the amount of detail you provide.
When I was starting out and still to this day when someone is showing me something, the first thing I ask is how not to do it or how it gets messed up. So I appreciate the style,man. Cheers.
Keep the videos longer, Keep those details, Ive gotten a better understanding of not just what to do, but why I should do them, Best teaching method in my honest opinion. Keep up the great work.
Since you use the drill press you can also use that for your 2-nut insert tool to start the insert in the hole exactly perpendicular. I just drop the head down and turn the drill by hand to get it started very straight and perpendicular. Then release it from the press and finish it off with a ratchet. Maybe a little more complicated and unnecessary, but if your after perfection 😉
You made a great point on making sure that the holes in the body are ever so slightly larger than the screws(or bolts) you use Sometimes players use oversize screws for more bite and security for their guitars and forget to enlarge the holes in the body. If the screws or bolts bind even a bit in the body before they find purchase in the neck, the neck will slip.
This is a very interesting concept, but I personally have just not had enough problems with traditional screws to warrant this process for myself. Thanks for the video!
As a complete beginner, I would like to say that I did not find your video overly long or too detailed. I think that half an hour is a perfectly acceptable time which should not tax anyone's attention span. Your attention to detail merely shows your enthusiasm for both the subject and the imparting of your wisdom on the process.
great job! i need to do this to my strat with striped wood screws.... anyway you could ditch the nut driver and chuck your home made driver into the drill press, spin the chuck by hand while putting small amount of pressure on handle for leverage.... a little wax and they go in dead straight every time...
@@maximumguitarworks - don't apologize, just keep making more overly detailed videos. The 1st series with the peach colored limba guitar was great. Honestly, your videos were so detailed and we'll explained, I've learned so much watching you build it step by step. I thought they were the best guitar build instructional videos I've ever seen. I've watched a ton of RU-vid videos regarding fretting for example, there's a few good ones and a ton of bad ones but there are very few about stainless steel fretting and your 2 videos explained everything very well from tools to technique. If I could, I'd join your build class in a heartbeat to build my own guitar with you!
Not too long at all, I love the attention to detail (I just wish I had a workshop like yours). A few suggestions.Use your drill press (since you have it anyway) to drive in the inserts, not _as close_ to perpendicular as possible, but _perfectly_ perpendicular (hand crank only!). And since we're going totally overboard, brush the outer threads of the inserts with some epoxy glue before setting them and finish off with a drop or two of blue Loctite on the threads of the machine bolt when time comes to final install of the neck.
Having worked with wood inserts, various screw types etc. The screw head has the primary job of holding the neck to the body, the insert provides a removable method of neck placement/replacement but often weakens the surrounding wood that the insert is in. Bodies can be Ash, alder, mahogany and plywood as well. For my next neck installation I plan on removing the maple neck finish on the body side, prepping the body side to bare wood , not painted or finished as well. Then gluing the neck on with a Japanese hide glue which has excellent results clamping and then use the the full length Fender style neck screws. The gluing/ clamping results would allow for zero movement and final strength given by the screws. Inside the plate would be the hide glue note of use. Conventional screws as well can go wrong with movement and especially inserts can really be a challenge to get true perpendicular results. Simply apply the standard heat for hide glue and remove if you have to. It’s a blend between Gibson permanence and Fender modular construction.
I free handed it on my bass. That was pre youtube.. If I had seen your video back then I would have probably passed on that. But I got lucky and it turned out well.
I am working on my very first guitar build. Always wanted to do it but never thought I had the skills until recently. Watching as many videos as I can possibly soak up and making as many jigs as I can in hopes this won't be my last guitar. I appreciate the long winded explanations that show good detail like yours. Just discovered your channel and will be watching more or your videos. Please keep up the good work. I look forward to learning more. (As you can see, my comment is long winded as well!) :)
100% appreciate the "I screwed up so you don't have to" approach to instruction. Nothing about this hobby is easy, but things go much better when something is hard because it is inherently difficult rather than because we didn't know about this or that trap. Thanks!
I like the details. I appreciate you taking th time to make these instructional videos. Thanks. BTW I came here from aTexas Toast video on fabric tops Matt did with you about a year ago.
Suggestion drill your first hole then put your plate on insert your screw not tight snug then mark your other hole across drill that hole after taking the plate off and so forth and everything will be lined up perfectly every time 👍I learned that in Vietnam .
I leave the drill off and lower the bit to align it. That way I can look at it on the X and Y. Then I raise the bit, turn on the drill and then drill the hole.
Sounds like a reasonable technique. I do that some of the times...just depends on what I think I can get away with. I continually try to increase efficiency...sometimes it takes more time! ;-)
It really is a better mouse trap. I am about to do my first build from parts and looking to learn as much as I can. My biggest mechanical feat to date was rebuilding my tractor deck last year.
Fun guy to watch. First time viewer will subscribe and like. Only one criticism is the use of perpendicular too many times. But it’s no biggie. Thanks!!
You don't really need perpendicular holes. You need co-linear holes. So drill a smaller pilot hole thru both the body and neck. Then drill at the needed diameters
Man, I‘m so glad I came across this video. I didn‘t know you had a RU-vid channel until today. I‘ve heard a lot about you through Todd‘s videos over at Sweet T Guitars. I have seen him do this and am planning on doing the same in my first electric build. Thanks for the detail! I appreciate it. I am now subscribed as well!
How do you worry about cross threading in steel? I'd worry about cross threading in wood first. Secondarily, going counterclockwise until the click will prevent counter-threading every time!
Awesome, ive gone and ordered me similar stuff before i saw this, i was concerned about the inserts cracking/slitting the neck wood on the edges, seems like it works for you. I DK why modern guitar companies have not done this, its not rocket science.
I have a bass with a bolt-on neck with inserts. And i have a big problem with that because of the body holes wear over the time. The holes are now loose and the neck slightly moves. If the bolts are not tight through the holes you're done. This doesn't happen with wood screws.
You should tell were to buy the stool and parts used. Hard to find stainless steel in all parts and drill size. Make it a list form saying this is what you'll need.
Very nice and instructive video. The only thing I'm afraid of when using bolts..instead of screws…is that they can come loose due to vibrations from the guitar. what is your experience with that? Best Regards Jan
The extension tension achieved with bolts prevents that...sort of like the purpose of a lock washer. I have seen more loose necks with wood screws. It is always personal preference though. Do it on a guitar an see what your results are. I wouldn't trust information online (including mine) without validation through personal experience. Although often that still only proves personal preference.
Great video Steve! Really appreciate all the detail. I’m very much a hobbyists. Can I ask, what I neck angle is applied to eithe the neck or body. Surly the perpendicular holes won’t line up with the threads?
This is awesome! You spoke early of aligning neck/body with low and high strings. Did you do that in-between shots? It looks like you just forced the neck in the pocket, slapped 6 stamps on it, and sent it! Do the bolts/inserts have enough wiggle room to do alignment after inserts are installed?
Hey Doug. Although I can't remember everything in my videos without going back and watching them...I was probably referring to a video in my Tele build series...where I go into depth on dry fitting all of the guitar parts and hardware. The bolt holes are slightly over sized...so there always is a little room for adjustment if needed.
I just built my first electric guitar a custom Tele type, I used threaded inserts & stainless cap screws for my neck, it came out great. Good vid I just found your channel Thanks
This was a great detailed video! Very helpful! I wonder Is there any chance the neck screws getting loose under string vibrations after some period of time? I just worry about the metal to metal contact regarding screws and the inserts. E.g. I faced this problem recently with an aftermarmarket telecaster bridge action screws and I had to use either Loctite or something else to make sure they will retain their position. It Is not the same thing of course and you can allways check how tight the screws are or you can feel If your neck Is getting loose but just wondering. Thanks!
Thanks for the comment. I have never had an issue with the bolts in the neck getting loose. They are tight...and under constant tension...so appears to hold up well. However, there is also no harm in adding a little loctite if you feel it will help. I have had the same thing as you describe happen with bridge screws...so I know where you are coming from. Hopefully you enjoy my other videos too...and spread the word about this channel. Take care.
Steve, I watched your whole video and may have just missed this detail. Having experienced crooked necks on bolt in guitars brought me to your video. My latest is a Jackson Randy Rhoads V3. I had a friend meet the seller to pick up the guitar since they both lived in New Jersey. Then I could get it from my friend a few weeks later. However, once my friend got it, he saw that the string alignment was such that he knew the neck was crooked.
SO, My question to you is, did I miss where and how you aligned the neck prior to marking the hole placement for drilling the neck and thus where your inserts would go? How do you know that the neck is in the pocket straight without a bridge mounted or the e strings attached and sighted straight before you deem the neck in the proper position before the drilling marks are made?
Well...your problem is New Jersey...Everything in New Jersey is crooked! What a minute...I'm originally from NJ. ;-) I'm not sure what you are looking for...but bolts with treaded inserts are typically not a solution for necks that are not straight. It could be many things...starting will as simple as a bad setup. I have seen bad necks...even have own some that needed the fretboard radiused...and new frets installed. But I wouldn't jump to that conclusion without looking at the simple stuff.
In my case...it was new construction...and the bridge was not installed until later...which would be with care of having proper alignment. There are many ways to verify the neck in bolted into the proper position...and if I didn't show that...I have other videos where I do. Most bolt-on necks do have a little wiggle room to tweak the neck before you tighten the bolts fully.
@@maximumguitarworks Steve, you made me laugh to no end, and thanks for your serious answer too. I will look for your alignment procedures in your other videos, thanks. Once I had the guitar in hand. I could examine the neck, screws, neck plate and neck pocket to conclude that the holes in the body are slightly larger than the screws which allows the neck to wiggle in the slightly too large neck pocket. Conclusion: despite the neck holes being a snug fit for the screws, it can still wiggle in the pocket because of the size of the screws vs size of hole drilled in the body.
My idea for how to solve this is to go ahead and line up the neck using the 2 E strings under tension, tightening the screws once things are straight and evenly spaced. I then make reference marks on the neck back and body where they meet. This will allow me to set things in proper position while installing inserts and new larger screws. This combination of things will yield a properly aligned neck that does not allow as much wiggle room in the neck because the tolerances have become a more tight and precise fit. Having the mechanical join of a Machine Screw to Metal Insert, will also yield a dependable less failure prone retention system just like your video shows.
Trying to improve something just to add more problems in the future when a simple thing like stripped thread occurs. I have bought a used Warwick bass with J style pickups mounted on brass threaded inserts. Two of them are stripped. God luck pulling them out.
I saw the whole video, when it comes to technique and learning from other peoples experiences and how they overcome the issues they encounter, there's no such thing as a long video, a 30 min video to learn a skill is nothing. people that watches 10 mins of it probably were looking for a different thing and they stuck around because the video was either well presented/produced/tidy or good enough to leave it playing for a while and see what it had to offer, even if that wasn't what that person was looking for. In another note, i found this method (thread inserts) to be one of the best things that can happen to a guitar with neck joint. IMO every guitar maker should start implementing those, mostly because it gives the player the option to take the neck apart as many times as they want, and it's also a great option if the guitar is going to be shipped by a postal or freight service. i have a 3 guitars that have it mostly because if i travel and i want to take one with me on a suitcase i can take the neck apart and fit the guitar within my clothes on a same suitcase, it makes it so easy and safe. Thanks for this video. Keep em coming!
Thanks for taking the time to go into the details Steve. I’m new to all of this so I highly appreciate the detail and the little tips/tricks that you’ve picked up along the way. Keep making these “long” videos and I’ll keep learning.
Thank you Louis...I appreciate your comment. I am constantly torn between making my videos shorter...but keeping detailed content. I think my brain is wired for details.
This is literally a job I'm about to tackle for myself for the first time in a couple of weeks, I already swear by inserts in my instruments. Have you ever thought about wicking some water-thin CA glue into the threads of the inserts? Only reason I ask is that I've seen other people who use wood glue on the threads, and it seems to me that CA glue would have a better hold if that's what folk are after. Btw, there can never be too much detail on a video like this, you went into everything I possibly needed to hear about doing this.
Watched the entire video to get to neck alignment but you decided to make that your next video but you never made it🤷♂️ 25 minutes down the RU-vid 🤦♂️
My local luthier bought a pneumatic jack to work on larger combo amps, which is about the smartest move I've seen , lately. Saves a lot of extended poor working positions, a lot of stress on the back.
Nice amount of detail my friend. I like your engineering solution too, something I've pondered for a few years now is the use of woodscrews on a 'bolted neck' - not robust enough imho. Great idea of yours to have bolts/captive type nuts etc. I like your version of body shape relative to upper fret access, so much neater than some of the curved heel type joints I've seen.👍😊😊
Suggestion: I use threaded insets for all kinds of stuff, and I tap the coarse external threads. For your necks, you could tap the neck threads using your drill press manually ( just to keep the tap perfectly plumb/square w the surface. I use a few drops of CA glue when inserting the insert. This all allows for just an xtra .001” or so around the insert - it’ll still be very solid but you avoid the risk of the inserts cracking the butt of the neck w seasonal humidity changes. I had that happen a cpl times so I started tapping them first. The coarse tap you’ll need is not common but wherever you get your inserts should be able to fix you up. I got mine from both Grainger and McFeely at one time or another. Try it - it also makes the insert go in like butter, no chance of a slip that could damage the neck.
