The Science of Horticultural LEDs 

Doc is very good at delivering a message that is very understandable. Those are hallmarks of a great teacher imo.. nice to see you Matthew 💯

Hell yeah!!

it's one for the ages!

This is a very knowledgeable video. i learned alot about LEDs in the last couple of days!

People will learn from this video beyond our life span!!!

Glad you liked it! Grower Love

Thank you so much for the Blurple contribution Berk! Grower Love!!!

Great rosemary blurp shots 💯 a lot of work in a short time and while not feeling well..kudos berk.. shout out to mrsberk for crushing the rosemary 💯💯

Happy to hear it! Grower Love

TYVM Jack! Grower Love

Seems we all owe you a round of applause too ledestar .. great collaboration 💯💯

Thanks Jordan :)

Agreed

That's awesome Crispy! Thanks for your support. Grower Love

You are very welcome. Thank you for the support.

Glad you liked it! See you on the Sunday show

@@DrMJCoco growers love my friend ! See you Sunday🫶

Happy to help! Grower Love

My pleasure - Grower Love

I have tested lights from Mogobe and Atreum Lighting that use LEDestar diodes. Grower Love

Grower Love!

Thank you! 😊 You are so kind Gg. Grower Love

Nah F that. This is a magnum opus

Thank you! Grower Love

As long as you can cover your plants. So when they are small absolutely, but as the coverage area gets larger you typically need more height (and more power) for even distribution. Grower Love

@@DrMJCoco Thanks Doc!

Hey Chef! Glad you got to see me :) Grower Love growmie!

NaLite led grow light

It is a good light, but not a hood light! Grower Love

Hahaha fat fingers

I'll look into it. Grower Love!

I have 8x Qb120s that I built into a fixture prob 3 years ago, and I usually run the total array between 150 and 350 watts (or between 150mA and 350mA per led). Mine are the Samsung LM561C leds for what it's worth. My driver is a meanwell hlg 480h-24B (so 24 v, adjustable pwm, max 480W.) My driver and LED draw need to be in the range that each needs for max efficiency- since the LEDS are pretty much max efficiency when the current is lower (higher light also equals exponentially increased heat losses) it means I want to run them as low as I can while getting enough light. However, based on my lighting needs, I want about 200W in veg and 350W-400W in flower, so I want a driver that is most efficient in that range. IIRC my driver was most efficient between 80% and 100% load, meaning I want to be pulling 380-480W, but since the LEDs are more efficient at lower draws it means my overall system efficiency is somewhat even across the brightness range I run it at. Also since I wanted a 24V system for safety reasons it limits the type of drivers I can pick from. Takeaway- you need to match your driver to your expected load if you want to maximize efficiency, and LEDs in general are going to be individually more efficient at lower current draws. The most efficient way I could build my system would have been a 24V driver with probably max 100W so I could run the driver at max load while driving the LEDs at the bottom of their range, but the problem with that is my max brightness would be very dim. Its a tough balancing act! And if you're building your own it requires some reading and understanding of spec sheets.

@@kj_H65f thank you. Are you saying thermal efficiency or % of possible par efficiency? I don't think that MJCoco and Migro address the driver portion very much, which I think should be a big topic. It seems like serious growers should be considering choosing their drivers, and I feel the advice seems blind to the driver issue. For example, I think I can run the Qb96 harder than is suggested by the 3-4 led per watt rule of thumb before the driver feels even a little warm.

You will get fungus gnats, regardless, in a grow medium that is always moist. Ranked in descending order from the highest efficacy first, look into a product that goes by the name mosquito dunks or mosquito bites/bits or something similar. They all use bti or Bacillus Thuringiensis Subspecies Isrealensis which is a bacterium specialized for.the purpose of eradicating the larvae of specific pests like gnats. This isn't a once n done magic bullet. This is an ongoing, yet highly effective, treatment to be applied as w irrigation. Next, top dressing the plants with sand, rock and/or other aggregate to at least a 1"/25.4mm layer above the potting mix to inhibit the growth of their larvae. Here, the smaller the particles the better, but not so small it all migrates to the bottom of the pot. Yellow sticky sheets are the least effective, but still decent to keep infestations from occurring, and can be used in combination w one or both of the previous options. All three used together and most likely won't ever see a gnat again.

I'm curious what lights you think are higher and than chilled, photontek, etc. Please don't say scynce lol

True that. Silver is a slightly better conductor, but gold doesn't oxidize as readily which is the main reason it's chosen in specific applications. Also, it is more malleable, whereas silver is more brittle. So, it can be formed much easier as well as applied in layers an atom thin. No other conductors can and this keeps overall costs competitive w less expensive options.

I don't think that's what he said.

I don't think that's what he said.

The door is not shut, but at this point we do not have good science that supports the benefits that most growers attribute to UV light. I am happy to consider other benefits, but my point remains that there is no good science that supports them. On the contrary the studies that do exist suggest that UV is more often harmful rather than beneficial - particularly shorter wavelength (UVB). Coupled with the fact that UV diodes terrible efficiency, I do not recommend them at all. Happy to agree to disagree ;) Grower Love

@@DrMJCoco You can't argue with "bro science", lol.