Glad you like it, Denise! A video toolkit is a great idea! I'll have to put together some playlists for precisely that purpose. Thanks for watching and happy wrapping to you, too! ❤
After watching this video some time ago, I have tried this technique while I'm practicing wire weaving and it works beautifully every time. Thanks so much for all the information you provide to make things easier for a novice like me.
I'm a beginner wire weaver. This video may have been the first one I've seen of yours. I'll be using your technique from now on. After watching this video, I'm am now subscribed to your channel. So Thank you, thank you.
I think it's a common struggle for all wire workers. It certainly frustrated me when I was starting out, so I hope to eliminate at least this one struggle for everyone who sees this tip. Happy weaving!
3:10 - More like "Even if it's tucked, we both know that it's not the standard we want it to be." I think that's better way of explainig it. Though some people are fine with tucking, I personally don't like it. I know it's there, and to me it's just negative energy lol
You're very welcome! I always hated the results of trimming my weaving wire ends, too. And that's exactly why I figured out a better way to finish my weaving wires.
Best, and most important, tip I’ve run across in any wire weaving tutorials. I’m only starting out with this type of jewelry (I work with wood and copper plate mostly) so this was one of the techniques I really needed to learn. Thank you so much!!
That is soo clever..this truly needs to be shared..it damnaged a few pieces trying to smooth that out..thanks..putting this in my groups..been doing this for years n no other channel has shared this n if someone uses it in their vids i hope they mention ur channel ...7 groupsn my fb...thanks
OMG THANK YOU!!!!! I tried your tip as I watched the video. ….. and my stress on finishing pieces went out the window! I am so grateful to you for sharing, I cannot thank you enough!
Great lesson and I am a self taught wire artist 10 years. Now getting into weaving and just bought this book and followed you on page 43. New to using Copper and plan to use Liver of Sulphur but, how is yours so shiny? Thanks
Glad this lesson was helpful! I get the shine on my jewelry by tumble polishing and/or polishing by hand with Sunshine cloths and Pro Polish pads. I always tumble polish new, freshly-made jewelry. And I maintain the finish on all of my own jewelry by polishing by hand. Here's a link to my tumble polishing video: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-RBOtf38KmdE.html And to my hand polishing video: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-ELlIkQ-5FgY.html
It depends on the wire gauge. For anything 22 ga or larger, I trim the wire with my flush cutters and tuck in the end with chain nose pliers. For wires 24ga and smaller, I break the wire just like I demonstrated in this video.
Thanks so much for this tip! I've never been able to make a wire woven ring I could give to anything because I'd always get a snag when putting it on. Now I just completed a simple 2-2 weave, broke my ends, and have a ring comfortable to wear!
You're very welcome, @Tracy Seymour! This is, by far, one of the most frustrating problems for all wire wrappers. I'm so happy to help you have a better experience! 😊
Just watched one of your videos. Your pieces are absolutely gorgeous gorgeous ❤️. Was wondering if you’ve ever used a rubber polish wheel on a small dremel instead of the files and sandpaper? I find that the rubber polish bits beautifully round off my edges and shine it at the same time. I’m too clumsy to hold those big files and not accidentally nick my piece .
Ps. I watched a different video on my television but looked you up on my computer and commented on the first one I came across. Looking forward to watching many more of your tutorials
Thank you, Leanne. I have used a rotary tool for polishing in the past, but I don't do that now because my workspace currently resides in the corner of my bedroom. Rotary tools throw a lot of dust and debris into the air that I just don't want in my main living space. So, for now, I use hand tools which makes it easier to keep my workspace/bedroom clean. If you have a dedicated studio space with proper ventilation, by all means, use a rotary tool. It's definitely faster and easier to get good results. However, there's a lot to be said for learning to do everything by hand as well. My craftsmanship has improved dramatically since my current living arrangement has forced me to stop relying on power tools. And when I do finally have a dedicated studio space where I can go back to using power tools again, I'll be able to level up the quality of my work again because my eye is so much better trained to spot flaws after years of doing everything 100% by hand.
I'm so happy to hear that, Wayne! Thanks so much for watching my video and letting me know this tip is working for you. It's always nice to get positive feedback!
Make sure your weave is tightly compacted. You may also need to increase your weaving tension a bit if your weave shifts much while you're breaking the tail. And yes, it does take practice. ❤
Welcome to Door 44! Yes, this trick will work with all types of jewelry wire. It even works on most steel wires. Basically any metal that is subject to fatigue, which is essentially all metals, will work harden and break using this technique. Non ferrous wires will break cleaner than steel wires, though. So always test in an inconspicuous place when trying this technique for the first time with a new type of wire.
@@Door44Studios I was checking the comments for this question! I wanted to say I work with galvanized steel wire and I am learning to weave. Snipping ends was irritating me and I struggled to tuck these tiny wires anywhere. This changed everything! I gave it a shot with my 28ga steel and it works the same as it did in your tutorial. Thanks so much for making this!
@@RyanBarnes that's awesome! Thank you so much for sharing your experience with galvanized steel wire. I do believe this trick will work with virtually any type of wire, but it's always good to get confirmation from someone who's using a non-traditional type of wire.
Oh, yes! I'll definitely be making more videos. Earrings are my favorite things to make. So I have lots of earring tutorials in the works! In fact, we'll be making some Twig earrings next, after we finish the Twig pendant series.
Thanks so very much for sharing your techniques for making wire jewelry with us……. I especially like your method for breaking the wire to eliminate the sharp ends……
What do you suggest for trimming wire the wire ends that are 16 or 18 gauge that does not cause the ends to be sharp. I try to bury the ends but they are too stiff and difficult to hide. Any help is appreciated! Do you suggest using copper wire or aluminum (which is softer)?
I definitely do not recommend aluminum wire for jewelry. It's much too soft for wire weaving, and it also doesn't hold up well to long-term use. Copper is my favorite metal to work with, but you can also use brass, bronze, and silver wires to make most of my designs. As for trimming 16 and 18 gauge wire ends, I recommend using a good quality pair of flush cutters, and then tuck the ends of your wires into place with your chain nose pliers. In some instances, as when making wrapped loops with heavier gauge wires, I'll sometimes file the cut ends with my needle file to remove any sharp edges.
This was just for the demo. I used the same short core wires in the wire splice video from last week to demonstrate both the splice and wire finishing techniques. But both principles apply just the same while you're making jewelry. These are the same techniques that I use in my own work every single day.
Hi, Joshlyn. Can you be more specific? What part of securing the start are you struggling with? Typically, I just leave a short tail at the beginning of my weaves, and then I break that tail after I'm finished weaving. If you're using an optimum level of tension, you can usually just break the tail off between two core wires, and it will be secure enough to stay in place. Tension is the key, though. If you don't use enough tension, that tail end can work itself loose.
