The Shark Gill Tree Felling Cut: Double or Triple your Hinge Wood 

Residential tree surgery is totally different to commercial logging.

Got it a much slower drop...

Yes and straightening up a leaner

I'm wondering the same.....

Don’t know, but it made a great colon noise as it fell 😂😂😂

Not this one…thats for sure

Абсолютно никогда вам это не понадобится. С такой скоростью спиливания на лесозаготовках вы бы остались без работы. Достаточно было выпилить стандартный клин и одним резом с противоположной стороны добиться аналогичного эффекта.

I like to use this cut when there are cars etc. around. You can bring the tree down very slowly an make it less likely for branches to burst and hit nearby objects

I'm a fellow faller! I use humboldtes on higher stumps when I'm trying to get my first log out of the stump flare in softwoods because the flare lowers the value of the log in my market. I use conventional on hardwood when I'm trying to fell the tree as low as possible because the hardwood flare still has value and doesn't lower the grade of the log. Despite what many say, you can be deadly accurate when you start with your upper 45. You just have to plumb your sight when you start the cut.

Hi r.g. I have always done my angle cut first, I use my gunning sights in the same way but they are lined up from the centre of the face rather than sweeping across. Much easier to match up a flat cut to an angled cut than the other way around. I have always believed that the traditional style of face (e.g. flat cut first, then angled cut) is a holdover from the days long before chainsaws, when all they had was crosscut saws and axes. At that time the best way to do it was to start with the crosscut saw (flat cut), then use the axes to chip out the angled part of the face. Then the back cut was with the crosscut saw. So when the chainsaw came along, it seems to me that they just continued the method that was familiar to them. I don't know how long it took before someone realized that a chainsaw opened up many more possibilities, e.g. bore cutting, or making the angled cut first, etc. I know that angled cut first is not the "traditional" way of cutting faces, but it is every bit as accurate once you have the technique dialed in, and it is much faster and easier to learn for anyone just starting out... As far as the Shark Gill cut goes, this is my friend's technique and I am just trying it out. It has very specific use cases which I didn't get into here, but if you watch David's tutorial which is linked at the end of the video, he goes in depth as to when this could be useful... Cheers from Canuckistan - Patrick

Does it make a difference? I cut predominantly old growth and large second growth, and I often take my lower (angled) cut first, because then I don't have a 200 pound face cut sitting on my bar when I finish that bottom cut...

@@TreeMuggs_PatrickM I agree with making the angled cut first and is ded nutz aim. I know from experience this felling cut works wonders on side leaned or weighted hardwoods. Keep up the great vids thanx.

You absolutely can cut your angle cut first almost all european/Scandinavian fellers do that so thats some BS...and i dont care if your 71 or 171.

There is another better way to cut extremely heavy side/back learners. For some reason the entire globe is fixated by doing straight face and back cuts, if you angle the bottom of the face cut 5-10 degrees and just go 1cm under that level with the back cut the tree can hold much more. See it as a threshold for the tree plus for heavy sides a more triangled cut will help the tree straighten before going over

​@PumaTomten I'm curious about this tecnique and don't understand what you mean? Could you explain more?

Check out David's tutorial at the end of this video, he goes over the use cases for this cut... - Patrick

I'm humbled Fred, appreciate it... - Patrick

@@fuqutube lol I would not triple hinge that tree. There are trees I do that with but, not on straight coniferous trees

@@fuqutube it’s just to keep a side leaned tree from drifting off course prematurely. This cut isn’t insurance but it can make a tree into a tree that can be felled without a rope

@@fuqutube yeah seriously try it out when trees got a good bit of side lean. You will use it. I know what you mean about not needing it. But it’s definitely another tool in the trick bag. Once you try it on a tree with side lean, you will notice how ridiculous the pull wood is on the stump and understand the holding power advantage of the triple hinge.

Batter up! Your turn. Show us how it’s done. This was his first one. How many have you shown now? Link to your channel?

It is...

Several days and nights were spent on this tree

Firm rule

@@TreeMuggs_PatrickM The good old "while you're here" or the neighbour coming over and asking for a quote and then explaining that doing the job now would save us driving back....

@@SebKrause661 Exactly

Customers are the WORST!!!

Yeah what he said

I could see it being used on a heavy side leaner and you’re trying to directionally fell it away from the lean. Maintaining a strong hinge to prevent the hinge of popping on one side.

@@JEEDUHCHRI Yes, or backleaner, that's the first use case that David describes for this cut... I want to try it out on something really brittle like Norway Maple.... - Patrick

@@kennethowenby2600 Check out David's tutorial video for more in depth discussion... - Patrick

It's audio only, available on podcast apps, called The Educated Climber Podcast... - Patrick

We use this technique daily because it’s much easier than trying to isolate a point in the canopy to send up a running bowline or climb up to install the pull line.

I don't do it for mechanical advantage, it's just much faster and easier than isolating and sending up a running bow, also gives you more options for changing the setup if you need to since you maintain access to both ends of the line... - Patrick

@@TreeMuggs_PatrickM thank you for responding and my mistake thought I heard you say it gave more control over the pull thanks I'm a huge fan love the mistake videos keep up the good work

My first thought as well, that's what I first commented on David's tutorial - Patrick

It actually lessens the odds of a barberchair, it allows the tension to be released slowly and step by step. It works good on alder. We don't have a name for it, we just refer to that as double or triple hinge

@@Northwoods208 but do you have a vertical cut in front of hinge? I've never seen it done like that

@@Imageloading... no, not unless in putting in a sizwheel, but that serves a different purpose entirely

@@Northwoods208 I couldn't remember the name of the sizwheel, but yes I agree. And the vertical cuts should start after the hinge, and extend both below and above point of wedge, and be lots taller. Like over a foot

Saturday knots....

troll

Works best on hardwoods. Keeps the hinge longer. Great for side lean

Agree!!!

It has its place.

@@lashlarue7924 no it doesn't. As a qualified tree surgeon I can safely say its bollocks

No way...just a wide hinge!

Useless...no need!

The hinge wont fail as easy. Even with a side lean. How much? well thats experience to know what you can get away with.

Check out David's tutorial which is linked at the end of this video... - Patrick

That was my first thought when I saw it, I would ratchet strap on a big hardwood that's for sure... - Patrick