What I'm realizing is that me being lazy and always hand tightening my muzzle devices has been saving my shot groups for years now 😹😹 thank you for confirming
FYI, If you don't like that the stock folds to the right over the bolt, remove bolt from the stock, then remove bolt from the frame, slide hinge to the left, install bolt back in frame, then install bolt back in stock. Now stock folds to the left and you can access bolt with stock folded.
I also own a 308 Cross, and have a suppressor QD muzzle device torqued to 45ft/lbs and have seen similar results as you experienced previously. I will take it off and shoot it hand tight with the same ammo to see if it shrinks the groups. Thanks for doing the research on this, hopefully it works for my rifle too.
Interesting. I just bought a 308 cross, first shots will hopefully be tomorrow. Was going to sight it then try my muzzle brake after. I got a precision armaments hypertap. It has a self timing nut, wonder if that will be different.
@@sortoftactical So I went shooting with it for the first time last Sunday. Unfortunately it's just an indoor range I have access to right now so they farthest I can stretch out to is 35 ish meters, 38 yards. When really focusing the 2 best groups I could achieve were a .5 inch and .75 inch with 147 grain PMC bronze tip. I have some options to try of match ammo but going to go to a longer range in the future. When I did a basic sight in the grouping wasn't bad somewhere around an inch. Then when I put the brake on, what I would call hand tight it opened up. Took the brake off it was a bit better but I then came to the conclusion it was probably me as I'm a fairly new shooter. This being a fairly light rifle, it seems to be much more sensitive to input. I found better consistency with my thumb on the same side using the safety as a rest. I put the brake back on only this time I put it on almost as hard as I could while lining it up correctly. My brake comes with 2 unique wrenches that are approx 2.5-3 inches max. Not really sure how much torque that would equal but it didn't feel remotely bad. Basic grouping seemed better didn't get anything I would call weird, unless it was my error. Tightest groups were with the brake on after me cranking it as mentioned. The tightest .5 inch was shots 40-45 with really just enough time for cooling between reloading the only magazine I have and removal and putting on the brake.
I bought one in 6.5 cm back in November. I was finally able to shoot it last weekend and I couldn’t get thing to zero because my elevation and windage would max out. They told be it was something with my guns rail and how it was tapped into the receiver. But when I got home I was looking at the barrel and it’s crooked. I don’t know if I should send the gun in or if I should tear into it and check it out for myself.
Straight Jacket Armory is gearing up to start selling Benchmark barrels in a few weeks also. The Schnee’s barrels are made by CarbonSix which is a wrapped McGowen. I’m thinking about a barrel in 6 ARC. That would be a screaming combo.
Just wondering, when you installed your muzzle break as before, did you use a 'brand new' crush washer during alignment? I saw using the crush washer is the recommended method by VG6 but if you use the crush washer, it's irreversible. Not sure if that may be part of the issue.
I used a new one. I also tried peel washers. The issue was torque. I figured out timing to within less then 1/8 of a turn and applied 10 ft lbs on the muzzle brake. Now it shoots around a half inch.
@@sortoftactical That's awesome. I having been thinking to get a Sig Cross but worried about the accuracy issue reported by many RU-vidr. So now your method is to get rid of the crush washer and use stack peel washer/shim to roughly align, then torque wrench to 10 ft lbs?
@@ddhi essentially. Torque on my rifle killed accuracy. After testing at hand tight and only applying the roughly 10 lbs I was shooting half inch. I tested this with 2 rangentrips. After it was confirmed I rocksett the brake. Problem solved. I know a few others here did the same.
Just out of curiosity what is your C O L with the 150sst? I just got a Cross 2 days ago and picked up 150sst already had a few pounds of Varget and about 1000 CCI 200s. I checked the lands today and they are about 2.820. Bullet seated to 2.800 doesn't look right on the 150sst. I went down to 2.785 and we will see how that goes.
It is snappy without the brake isnt It? I found a brake that shoots well on mine as well im hitting 12x6 steel plates at 850 with mine. Its a shooter for sure. Glad you finally got it to shoot, have you tried the 175 sierra match kings Yet?
Sig cross has a design defect I have even emailed Sig about. I first noticed it when my rifle was throwing shots 8-10 inches high. the screws on the lower handguard turned out to be super loose and by loading my bipod it was translating flex into the scope base. Sig should never have mounted the scope base to the handguard. All it did was introduce a new mode of failure to the rifle and was lazy engineering. All I know is that the cross cannot be loaded on a bipod or directly mounted to an tripod if any consistency is expected. The barrel is also too slim to even expect anything under 1.5 MOA. There is simply too much heat expansion while the first 2 shots are fired. If I don't count my first 2 shots the rifle shoots under .5 MOA.
Interesting. My scope base does not seems to be bothered by that. I went back out today and shot several sub half moa groups back to back on a warm to hot barrel.
His whole video is pointless. Let’s ignore the “about 2 steps above a 2x4” bipod that loosens every shot and talk about barrel harmonics and inconsistency 😂😂😂. It defies logic
my 308 cross shoots like shit…gotta send it in this week. kinda bummed. all i wanted was a 1-1.5 inch hunting rifle and its slinging rounds over a 6-8 inch circle
@@tonydamato4313 the torque used to seat the brake created an imbalance with the barrels harmonics. It is now shooting very well. I made a new vid on it.
Not a huge discernible difference between first groupings and second groupings. The fact that you decided that barrel harmonics was the issue and clearly not the sub par bipod is beyond me. Snipers hide has some good stuff but some of the regurgitated bullshit on there is mind numbing. Before anyone starts doing science experiments with their barrels start with the basics (I.e. torque specs on everything, quality parts installed properly and then fundamentals) based of this video and your two step above a 2x4 bipod the groups you did shoot were great considering. People it isn’t always a complex problem LOL
You are 100% right. I made a lot of mistakes when I got this. I ended up fixing all my torque issues. Got a new bipod. Stopped shooting groups from a bench. Upped my reloading game with better components, and more recently stopped worrying about 100 yard performance.
