The Solution to All My R6 Issues?! 

Auto-ISO is great for outdoor sports where the light is constantly changing and there is no time to adjust your shutter speed like you normally do. This is also true for wildlife. I do this and have my control ring set to exposure compensation. I think yours is set to K. For your type of work, setting a minimum shutter speed to protect yourself is a much better idea. I like that you are a $10,000 wedding photographer but you are still willing and able to learn things. Bravo!

I've never seen someone make something so hard that is so easy. Choose your exposure to what you want, put Auto iso on, set the camera to follow her eyes. done.

I've been full time for 15 years and I teach photography workshops and teach how to shoot manual. But what I use for portrait sessions 100% of the time when I'm not using flash is Aperture priority, Auto ISO, evaluative metering, eye autofocus. With the R6, that simply means... one finger on aperture, thumb on the wheel for exposure compensation with exposure sim through the viewfinder and that's it. My clients see every shot SOOC that I take and the exposure and focus is correct on 99.9% of them every time. And that's with 3rd party EF mount lenses.

That last one was a great suggestion! I changed mine right away! Because literally the next session I did AFTER I watched your video about the low shutter speed I did the same thing!! This will make me feel much safer!

I truly love seeing you shoot through the camera like this! I think we could all learn from more videos like this! Just hands on watching you work through things and your flow, love it!

I’ve watched both videos and none of these issues are R6 problems. If you’re shooting manual, as you’ve stated, you’re the one physically changing the shutter speed. If you’re not aware of what your settings are throughout your session, respectfully, it’s a user error. The best thing to teach is shooting with purpose. To slow down and being more intentional. As someone who has also been shooting 13 years, teaches / trains other photographers, and owns a Canon r6, I don’t have any of these problems. I love all of your other videos and I usually don’t comment. I just don’t want these videos to deter anyone from purchasing the Canon R6, because it’s an incredible camera. This is said out of love, not judgement. So please don’t think I’m being negative. That’s not my intention.

i have been shooting events with Auto ISO and Aperture Priority professionally for years. Minimum Shutter Speed set to 1/125 usually. Works great.

I use auto ISO often to shoot dance in a theater setting, the light is shifting all over the place and I use the lowest shutter speed that freezes the motion enough usually 160 or 200th a wide aperture to let in as much light as possible, widest for solos and more depth for groups. Auto ISO follows the ever changing lighting when the shutter and aperture are essentially slammed to the limit due to the low light with dance in motion. Exposure compensation also becomes necessary for spotlights and backlights, that is what I have track and move around during the performance.

what's the brand of the clear filter you have in your lens?

Katelyn, the problem is you didn't go full auto. Does the R6 have the incredible FV mode? It's a game changer. The way I set up my EOS R was so that everything I want to shoot in auto, is in auto by default in FV mode. Then as soon as you change iso, shutter, aperture they stay locked in, but everything else is full auto. I use the lens control ring to change exposure (this is key*) and eye/face AF. The last thing I do is set the FV reset so that little useless tiny button on top resets everything back to full auto FV. You can still set your minimum shutter, I'm telling you the engineers that thought up this FV mode are brilliant and most dinosaurs don't use it. Just like wanting the joystick back haha. Who uses a joystick when your thumb can literally drag focus in a split second to anywhere in your viewfinder??? The multi function touch bar was actually a step forward and much more valuable than a joystick but everybody complained and now we get the uselss joystick back haha. It's absurd, embrace innovation people!

Hi Katelyn, I followed a lot of your courses, basically because: 1. You own the same camera, 2. You’re creative approach, 3. Your editing skills and high-end delivery, 4. Your preset and black and white proces, 5. Learning how to pose people, 6. Learning about secondary light and consistency and of course your personality! But, technically 🙈. Still love you ❤️

Thank si much for this great advise! i was just thinking about paying attention but i deeply appreciate your suggestion of shooting at higher iso

Not sure if you've covered it before but there's also a shutter speed limit setting so it won't go below a set value. Thanks for making great content for us all!

I think the r6 is so good even with high iso. That instead of changing the shutter speed, just raising the iso manually for more light

PROBLEM: I have a R61 , the ISO change to auto automatically, but all the photos get super exposed, I change the adapter, lens but nothing changes! I'm using the last firmware on canon website. someone can help me?

Thanks for keeping it real Katelyn. I love the fact that you are willing to point out flaws (so that the manufacturers can work on issues) and not just 'hype up' a product. Oh, I also noted that your grass looks magnificent now (I know that you had some issues of patchiness a while back)...let's just call that a Photographer's eye..haha :)

Great video..! I completely agree, and relate to you on every point you made.. I've been a "M" shooter since I started shooting weddings, while wearing a tux, back in 1994, lugging around Medium Format cameras. Some old school techniques are just better. Cheers!

Unless I’m using flash, I almost always use auto iso and exposure compensation to adjust accordingly. I find it to be a bit of a safety net and much faster to shoot in that I will likely never have a shot that’s too over/underexposed, and typically only have to adjust shutter and aperture for the effect I want, camera will sort iso.

Have you tried the setting in the camera where you can lock it to not go lower then a certain shutter speed? Not sure if that was in your last video or not. I lock mine to not go lower than what I’m comfortable with and then just turn that off when I need to go lower for reception dancing or something like that

Another thing to try is to set the slowest shutter speed your camera will do to a 1/125 th, so it won't let you dial your shutter speed slower, so when you're adjusting things it'll stop at 1/125th and then you'll notice and then adjust ISO.

I really stay away from Auto ISO like the plague! I had my thumb wheel on the R5/R6 set to ISO and when the camera was at my side it would always get bumped to ISO. I fixed this by having my ISO now using the Set button and shutter dial. The thumb wheel is now reserved for Kelvin.I just like being in total control so I agree with everything you mentioned.

How does changing from ISO 100 to say ISO 400 effect your batch editing? Also what are you going to do if limiting your shutter to 1/250 results in an underexposed image? Are you then bumping your ISO or opening up your shutter?

I’m a fan of manual mode with auto iso, then using the control ring you can control iso if you don’t want to use exposure comp. Been working a treat for me

Hi, I'm a bit of a newby at this--what is the piece of equipment on the top of your camera ?

I noticed you said that your device on the R6 disable touch and drag. In this situation when using a single subject are you still not comfortable with the eye tracking ?

You mentioned that you don’t focus and recompose. How do you focus? It’s one thing that I feel I can’t trust my camera to do so am constantly tapping the screen but it’s slow and I miss shots or some are unfocused

LOVEEEEEEEEEE This! I just set mine to 250! THANKS sweetheart!

There is a setting to lock exposure when the shutter is half pressed. This would lock the iso to the value you or the camera found on the place where the focus point was set. In your camera might be off as its changes when you recompuse.

I just happened upon this video while browsing youtube and I have to say it confused me. If you are used to shooting manual all the time that means you control the triangle of ISO, shutter speed and aperture. How does your shutter speed get too slow without you knowing it? If you're the one setting it? Or did I miss something?

I understand that using a camera in complete auto is not really professional. But, to let the camera pick the iso, now that it doesn't compromise image quality, it is not a matter of letting the camera thinking for you. It doesn't make any photographer less or more professional or in control of their work. I know that you didn't say that, but I know where it comes from: professionals shoot manual. Flash in manual. Camera in manual. Sometimes technology helps. The same thing was with focus (in the past). "I don't use auto focus at all". Now, we just select one focus point, and we let the camera do the rest. So, sometimes we need to get advantage of technology, and it doesn't make us less professional to the world.

Older Canon camera here - but I've been loving auto ISO in place of when I'd use Aperture Priority mode, rather than in place of when I'd use Manual. On the other hand - what Canon could add to help is *warn* below a minimum shutter speed, rather than *block* it. That would be a setting you could leave on all the time, and selectively ignore when necessary.

Thanks for the video. I'm however a bit confused and would love some clarity. You stated that you will not be using auto iso because it would require too much additional steps to correct the exposure, however you will be using I asume aperture priority mode where the shutter speed will adjust it self for exposure. But I believe and feel free to correct me where i'm wrong, that you will have the same exposure issues you had while using spot metering, where you will still be required to make the extra steps to compensate for the adjustments that the camera will be making for you. So I'm confused as to how is one better than the other?

what 4K HDMI Monitor and bracket are you using

Loved this video, Kate. Thank you!

I’m with you, I totally like to be in control of my camera settings, no auto anything.

I am glad i found ur chanell,u explain things so well

Aperture priority, autoiso from 100-25600, shutter min. speed at 1/250 - alle problems solved ;) working like that from 3 years. You just seting aperture and using exposition wheel to make picture "brighter or darker" . thats it.. works perfectly

I have read that the minimum shutter speed is only in effect in P or Av mode. Does it work in manual??

Thanks for teaching me how to shoot raw and dual record in Raw and JPEG indirectly through this video.

I think that with mirrorless technologies it’s a good idea to expose full manually because you have final result before you shot in the viewfinder. I always have done like this and I love it.

I alwasy LOVE your teaching videos. :) Thank you so much for taking the time to do them. :) Quick question. What is that device on your hotshoe? I'm assuming it's the thing that allows us to see your screen? But what's it called? Thanks. :)

You can set it to lock exposure (not talking about using ae-l button) and lock focus with the half press/ back button. That is the problem you are facing. Your camera is only locking focus, not exposure. Therefore when you recompose, it recalculate exposure for where the focus point now rests. with that function enabled, it would work like a charm.

Yes setting the minimum available shutter speed is the best for you. Go team "Minimum shutter speed.". I have tried what you did in this video and quickly realized that I needed to focus and recompose what I was getting away from with the mirrorless setup.

Hi Katelyn, love the vids, learning lots from them, what's the big item attached to the top of your cam? looks interesting 😊.

Set minimum shutter speed and make sure not going below that ( unsafe zone) 👍🏼

Hey Katelyn...Have you ever had an R6 stop working (shooting stills) on a really hot day? I took my R6 with me to a job photographing a home exterior, but it was close to 100 degrees in the evening. Camera died. Had to send it to Canon repair. Not repaired yet but they charged me mucho $$ just to look at it. Just curious if you have had that issue... Joe Homsy

Please help me please I got my r6 And I don’t love it and feel lost Some pics are not sharp some soft And the shutter can’t make over 200 like my old camera

I tend to shoot in auto iso mode unless I’m in a low light situation and purposely don’t want the higher iso settings because of noise in the image. I think the bigger issue though is slow shutter speeds creating motion blur. Most of the time Lightroom saves my butt on an underexposed or overexposed image whereas it can’t really do much with a blurry image. Love my r6 though, good advice!

This video shows you really read the comments. Very good! I understand your point. Thanks for trying auto ISO

Did you know that when you use ISO Auto in M mode that you can program the SET button for exposure compensation? The R6 has the Fv modes, which allow you to give the camera a different way of automatically only adjusting ISO.

do you notice your ISO showing more grain in lower light? i thought my r6 would be better in low light than my mkiv but i'm not impressed

Have had my R6 for a few weeks now and here's what I've settled on. SS and Aperture are the creative things I want to control. ISO just is what it is. So, I'm playing around with shooting in Manual with Auto ISO. I tried FV, but didn't care for the interface and IIRC, Exposure Comp goes away (it may have been a different control - but I lost the ability to do SOMETHING in Fv --- though I may play around with it more.).

If you are on full manual, why do you have to set the shutter speed range?

Haha. 90% of the time I shoot auto ISO. 99% hit rate with my R6 with any lens EF or RF

Auto ISO never works for me. It messes up way more photos that way. I have tried it shooting softball. Batter is in the shade, fielders in bright sun. Going from batter to fielders is impossible. So I tried auto ISO to solve this and it was no help for me. Now I take the batter, if the ball is hit, I turn the shutter down 3 stops as fast as I can. Forget auto ISO.

Interesting choice. I wonder if Apature priority would work better. Auto ISO on many cameras is just not there yet in all honesty.

I have also started to use auto iso but not to go over 800 on my lumix camera and also if in low light conditions and see noise I wack out topaz denoise as that does a sterling job of repairing.

so this is what i do on my canon rp. i'm using manual and set the lowest shutter speed to 1/125 and change it manually if my subject is moving really fast. for aperture i set it to 1.8 most of the time cause that's how i like it and i'm always using auto iso and set the max range of 6400. the reason for that is 6400 iso is the highest usable iso for my taste, you can go higher if your camera handles it very well or just don't care of the noise. note that i'm using Variable ND Filter during the day so i don't crank up my shutter speed every time especially if i want to capture a motion. also i'm using Servo AF instead of One Shot AF. hope this simple settings helps for beginners. Happy Shooting

Great video, very helpful! What king of monitor are you using here?

is that a polarizing filter on your lens?

1:50 If you’re just shooting one person why not use Eye AF with tracking? Is that a recorder issue?

Insteaf of focus and recompose, couldnt' you just enable eye tracking and it would just grab her eye?

If I'm on a tripod (and stable) I set the ISO. If I'm hand held and moving around, I set the ISO to Auto. Aperture and shutter speed I set. Works for me. Like your videos.

Good morning from Sunny Malta. Love your posts….so fresh.

What’s that on top of your camera?

my R6 experience... purchased my R6 last year.. had it less than 3 weeks.. it would not AutoFocus.. called Canon .. they said to send it in for repair.. not happening repairing a brand new camera so I returned it for a refund.. left me with bad vibes about the R6.. I'm sure it is a great camera .. guess I just had a bad copy... waiting for the R7 to show up hopefully being announced in a few days or so the rumors go.. to upgrade from my 6dMkII.. great videos... thanx :)

When using digital cameras with high AF point counts, instead of focusing and recomposing, you can meter and recompose focus. When using Spot Metering is they R6 only metering at the circle in the center of the view? When you use Evaluative Metering, then camera meters the scene at locked AF point. Digital cameras allow for completely different shooting techniques compared to film. Zone AF modes are more reliable than you might realize. It allows the camera to focus and meter with any active AF point.

What is the setup with your flash? what is that?

I am having issues with my EOS R and using Godox flashes. It sometimes switches to AUTO ISO. Most of my wedding ceremonies are on the beach and couple's portraits are against a beautiful sunset. The AUTO ISO makes it impossible to get properly exposed couples in the foreground and a little darker sunset background. AUTO ISO takes away most of the creativity.

Just use evaluative metering, keep the camera in program mode for all natural light shots and touch up with exposure compensation as needed. I’ve been doing photography since 1972 when I became our yearbook photographer. All we had was manual then. You guys have it easy! Stop trying to make photography difficult!!!

The reason why your focus recompose chaging exposure may be because you have assigned the half press to metering? just my guess.

I do the same for street photography and birds in flight with the RF 100-400 but I leave my exposure compensation +1. The screen recorder seems to make this harder than what it is.

Are you just using the 24-70 F2 and the 85mm? A majority of the time.

auto-iso is great for shooting video for events, but you have to limit it or the camera will go to extremely high numbers in low light situations.

I use auto iso in video RAW or 10 bit pro res HQ 422 so that I can adjust easy in post. I look at the waveform and adjust to whatever value I want. My brain is too slow to not do auto iso in fast situations

It is fascinating how naturally you speak to the camera. Good job!

Why still focus recompose??? just move te focus point or use face detection!

Off the bat, auto iso fixed those blown out highlights. We can always brighten, we cannot recover blown highlights

This has quickly become one of my favourite youtube channels. I shoot mostly everything with a zoom lens and have decided to make the jump today and bought the RF 28-70. Thank you for all your content on it, I'm so excited !!!

I love auto ISO + spot metering but I LOCK it which my star button to highlights or skin tones - I was taught this technique years ago during a hummingbird photography class

Why are you shooting in One Shot instead of Servo? Why are you not using the joystick to place the focus point (instead of the touch screen | enabled under C.Fn3)? Why are you not using head tracking (arguably the biggest strength of the R5/R6)? Change Initial Point for AF Tracking from Auto to either of the options (Page AF5 | Recommend following the other focus points) which gives you back control on where you want it to attach focus (like you were doing here), and then compose. Choose 0 on AF4 -- Switching Tracked Subjects if you need that locked on person to be extra sticky. Eye AF is great, but if you're shooting a group, ehhh. Lastly (and I don't really get why it's in a different spot) -- ISO Speed Settings on Shoot2 -- Change the Auto Range. You can limit what your ISO can climb to so it won't be wildly different. I get that you've been using a DLSR for the past X years, but don't be afraid to use the assists of the new. :) Thanks for the content and walk through!

If someone recommends aperture priority with auto ISO, make sure you go into Settings and set a minimum shutter speed! Aperture priority gives you control of the aperture and the camera takes care of the shutter speed and ISO (because you set auto ISO), so you've really lost a lot of control. The camera could choose a lower than desired shutter speed, or a higher than needed shutter speed and hence a higher than needed ISO. With the exposure simulation and histogram, I can't see any reason not to shoot full manual, it's actually the easiest way to expose on a mirrorless camera. The exception being sports or situations where the subject is constantly coming in and out of shade into direct light. It's impossible to manually keep up with exposure changes in those circumstances.

interesting. So if you're all manual, how are you determining "correct exposure"? Using the meter in the viewfinder? I'm one of those that suggested auto iso and exposure compensation. Yes, it can be unsettling at first, but if you have the controls set up for that and use exposure simulation and evaluative metering it's actually very consistent. Part of of what it looked like watching the video was you were cranking too hard on the controls. Remember, with evaluative metering, it will set an ISO that fits as much of the tonal scale in the picture into the middle of the histogram and if you have face detect/Eye AF enabled, it prioritizes correct exposure for the detected face/eyes. It knows where the faces and skin tones are in the picture and will set the exposure to give the best face and skin tones if you let it. Canon's metering is very accurate and you will rarely need to adjust more than a stop, which is only 3 clicks in either direction, and more often than not, it's one or two clicks. It's less of a "crank that thing" and more of a "finesse it up and down a click at a time". Of course, this is coming from a fellow R6 user who does this all the time. You're not really giving up that control, you're guiding it, but being able to effectively do that means that you have to have the camera set up so that you can actually use the controls to your advantage. If you want to directly control every single aspect, this will be difficult to do as you surmised, but if you let the camera find and focus on the faces/eyes and set ISO for the best skin tones then finesse that up and down and have the physical controls set to intuitively do that, it very quickly turns into a fluid shooting machine with a very high hit rate. Alternatively, if you prefer not to give that control up, you can just set your ISO 1 to 2 stops higher than what you'd normally shoot for a given light level to give yourself more shutter speed buffer. The R6 is basically a mirrorless 1DXIII (minus the 1DX video features) and has industry leading high ISO performance, so while the mantra usually is "shoot as low of an ISO as possible", the with the R6, you can really crank it up way higher than you'd think.

This video reminds me of the Northrup's (great photographers, but when they find a product they don't like, they try to make it seem as if the product is flawed or difficult to use). Seems like when people get popular on RU-vid, they become the "bee's knees.

Your problem seems to me to have a lot to do with the exposure metering modes. Modern cameras produce a sensitive effect that affects the photometer reading. I also noticed that you tend to focus and then recompose, which seems unnecessary since you can use face detection and compose without worrying about the autofocus, as the system keeps the person's face detectable, this prevents that when there is recomposition the exposure changes suddenly

Control Freak..!!!😝.The thing with Auto ISO…Quick changing environments…It generally gets you to where you want to be…It’s not for everyone… But..If your a beginner…It helps eliminate having to do it all…Great video lesson as always…Ty for the education…😎

Use the R6 with the 28-70mm lens, set the shutter at 1/250, f2.0, and auto ISO. Shoot in the different lighting situations you would in a wedding and process the images. You will NEVER have a motion blur image. I doubt you will see any noise. Your life will be so much easier. Trust the camera, or buy the R5.

I was in a similar boat of being anti-auto anything. However, I've found that the R6's auto ISO is pretty decent in about 65-75% of situations. By keeping my dial available to override when it does get it wrong, I find I can use auto ISO in quite a lot of fast moving situations, or where the lighting is changing subtly and I don't want to keep manually hopping back and forth. For example, when shooting toasts at weddings where the head table might be slightly better lit than the person with the mic. When moving back and forth from one subject to the other, auto ISO does a pretty decent job of keeping up. Having said that, given that this video began with a discussion about motion blur, I will never understand why photographers will hamstring their steadiness by holding the camera away from their bodies. Yes, the live view function is great and all and immensely useful for some situations, but utilizing the viewfinder will always create much more stable shooting, even with modern image stabilization.

Place your focus on the back button and your exposure lock on the shutter button. Focus with AF-On, half press shutter, and recompose. Becomes second nature.

I wouldn't shoot Auto ISO, I would just set the shutter speed where you want and just switch to changing ISO to adjust exposure instead of changing shutter speed to adjust exposure

What does the guy mean with the shutter as low as you can go? Low speed or short time? Mathematically 1/200 IS a HIGHER number than 1/1600. Please explain. This is confusing.

Yes, yes and yes. The headache of semi-auto settings. 😂

Why not use face detect??

Why would you not move the focal point instead of decomposing? That would solve the problem of exposure shifting.

When watching the video, I did wonder why you weren't using auto ISO on the R6, which I've been a fan of since it came in around the 5Diii, one thing I've found though is that it's handy to cap the auto ISO especially if you have harsh lighting, indoor sports in my case. Center-weighted metering is also handy I think. If the shutter drops too low, then why not put a limit on the lowest shutter speed that it's allowed to select for you. (just got to this part of the video...ooops)

It’s the funniest thing, I was listening and understanding everything you were saying. Then as soon as Ty comes on, it’s like, he started speaking Russian and I had to *FOCUS* to get what he was saying. I just learn so much better from other women!!!

More an user issue than camera. Set auto iso with range limitation to avoid not usable iso. And please switch to Servo and Eye AF for portraiture. Then 99% of shots would be fine.

Auto ISO helps me a lot with wildlife photography when I suddenly will see something I wish to photograph and don't have a lot of time to make adjustments.

why do you recompose? you can compose en put the af pount where it has to be. that is easy with the R6

What is that flash you’re using!