Thanks for the shout out. I have use this plane a few time, and encountered the same balancing issue as you described. I do, however, figured out a slightly different way to use it. Let say you tilt the tote to your right by 45 degrees, push the left side of the sole on the work piece with left thumb, then push the plane with right hand with pressure towards the work piece, not down, only left. This way you have more of the plane on the work piece. It is still challenging to balance the front tip to the beginning of the work piece, so I skip that portion, and move forward a little per pass. When the far side of the work piece is close to or at the desired chambfer size, turn around the plane the other direction. Now you have the whole chambfer to reference the sole onto.
I've heard of the Stanley #72 but never saw one until now. Thanks for showing it to us. Personally, if I want perfection, I'd use a router or router table (not likely). One of the nicest things about hand-tool woodworking is that no two pieces are ever really the same as if done by a machine. I'll stick with my beat-up coffin plane to do my chamfers. LOL!!!
Good vid, thanks. I was surprised by how useful my block plane's chamfer attachment is. It allowed me to break the corners on a bed evenly, consistently and quickly. It really raised my game. Was it worth the $30 or so I paid for it? Yes. Absolutely.
I have some cheep tiny wooden clone planes, I put 2 45°channels Diagonally across the sole to allow angled/downcut chamfers for easier end grain chsmfers
Actually it does more than cut 45 degree chamfers. Stanley made a second attachment for it that holds beading blades. You cut a chamfer and then add beading. I have one, but embarrassed to say have not used it to do more than the chamfer.
I built a set of attachments for my Harbor Freight power plainer when I was doing a timberframe. There were a lot of big chamfers on the posts and beams about an inch wide I did the ends of the chamfers with a router and the middles with the modified plainer. It was fast and they looked rite
I have a a 72 and I love it ( the one with a sole and knob at the front.) Stand still near me and you’ll leave with a chamfer. Don’t remember it being too expensive when I bought it but that might be UK prices
The UK is usually a lot cheaper for hand planes. there are several people that make a living going there to buy tools then selling them in other countries.
James, Love the video. Thanks for making my 72 more valuable. That said you made a statement that it could only do one thing: chamfers. Using the other attachments you can also do beading. Additionally the 72 came with a larger sole attachment standard. The bullnose attachment you have there is not the standard attachment. Your complaint about not having enough sole to start would be solved with the standard attachment, no need to drill into that valuable body. You end up with about a 1 inch sole to start. The beading attachment (makes it a 72 1/2) uses the same beading cutters that the Stanley 66 uses and replaces the bull nose attachment. Imagine all the fun you can have with that. If you want to chat some time about the other attachments and see my 72 1/2 / 66 collection let me know. We can do a zoom and chat about it.
@@WoodByWrightHowTo the 72 had the normal front end and the bullnose attachment as I understand it. The 72 1/2 has the beading attachment also, as I understand it.
This specific video is good but I just stopped by to say I have been watching a ton of your stuff lately and it’s all great. You have become my go to source for all kinds of woodworking info and especially on different tools and how they work. Your videos are clear, fun, informative, and just the right balance of long enough to be helpful but not so long it’s a major investment of time to learn something relatively simple. Thanks for all the great vids.
I love the shirt so much I took a screen shot and emailed it to my wife. Personally I'm happy freehanding chamfers. But if you really wanted a perfect 45 chamfer, just get a little scrap of hardwood, and cut a vee groove in it. Then get your least favorite sharp block plane or ugly #4, drill and tap the sole for a couple 1/4"-20 screws, and bolt the little vee block in there. Done. But if I was in a production shop chamfering boards all day, I'd want a dedicated plane, and that was probably their target market.
Re:the short front lead. Can you start at the end and work back like a plough plane. And BTW, I learn so much watching your videos and madcap live videos.
I have 3d printed a "shoe" that fits on my low angle block plane for chamfers. Works like a champ. Can't help but combine a little new with a little old.
I have seen a few of these with the stock standard front end with a knob. From what I gather, the bullnose version came in later as an optional extra... Just found one at my fave vintage tool shop.... a cool 1200 AUD with both front ends and a selection of beading, grooving and fluting cutters....😳
That's an interesting design of plane, never seen one of those! I've long thought about making one of those Japanese chamfer planes (mentori kanna) where you can adjust the width of the sides, but… then I just saved up and bought it 😁 It has a slanted blade too so it's easier to use on end grain.
I have one of these, likely circa 1930's. It makes real nice chamfers. But the sliding front sole on mine is different - It's a little under two inches long and has a period-typical wood front knob. I've not seen one like yours. Stanley must have made optional attachments for these. Cool video, BTW!
One thing that I find funny about specialty tools is that as you stated there are not really necessary as you can do pretty much anything with a number 4 or 5, saws and chisels but you kind of need the specialty tools until you develop the skill to do it properly with a more versatile tool. For example, it takes skill and knowledge to straighten a long edge with a number 4, a jointer is a more foul proof way to do it.
Neat too. I want one! Will watch for them at random yard sales for the rest of my life looking for one in the wild as will never pay the ebay price for that one!
A while ago I 3D printed a set of jigs to use with my Stanley 220 to try to put 45 degree edges on acrylic/polycarbonate pieces for a project... they worked okay, was working on a second version but haven't finished yet. It's interesting to know that there was a tool specifically designed to do that.
So a couple of thoughts: How about using a bevel gauge, like the Stanley 386 or the ones from Veritas? You're still counting strokes or striking stop lines but you get perfect 45's. The other is it's a bit like those using a corner tool for sheet rock joints. They do work nicely but the pros wouldn't be caught dead using one. :)
Loved the video, but as you said, it's rare and expensive. Here's an idea for others: block planes are cheap and plentiful, and there are many 'rubbishy' ones about that might even come free. How about making adjustable wooden cheeks to fit on the sides of one of those (drilled and tapped) , and make your own chamfer plane? Come on James, design it for us. :)
Right now there is a guy at Lee Valley who just opened up a drafting program and is frantically designing a chamfer fence add on for their custom planes and I’ll probably spend $150 on it next year.
I’ve never seen a No.72 in the flesh…looks interesting but definitely a one trick pony. If I have a one off job I go for my No.4 or block plane. If I had a lot to do and needed a high level of consistency (very rarely) I’d cheat and go with my 1/4” power router (I know, I know, it’s heresy).
The short nose suggests it’s also for doing stopped chamfers perhaps? I’ve yet to see a method better than free-handing them with a chisel and spokeshave
If your chance for has any decent size you wouldn't be able to do a stopped chamfer with it. You would end up having to stop six or seven inches away. You can do it with a chisel plane but for the exact corner nothing can do it like a chisel.
Could you change the shape of the blade to create different profiles that are all uniform. i.e. a perfect bullnose (or some other fancy design) that are exactly the same on the whole of your table? Also, how does it go going across the grain?
Why not just pick one of the sides of the groove and put it flat on one of the surfaces meeting in the edge to be chamfered and work inward? Then you get sole contact for the whole operation without any extra wedge.
Great video . Just a little off topic but , here goes . Would you do a video on the Irwin number 22A ? I bought one second-hand , spent some time removing rust and luckily , it was sharp . How does a fellow sharpen one of these ?
If you want to advance as you plane, like Rob does, and you're left-handed, it's priceless. (You're pulling *up* on the side of the wheel from the left.)
They have different front end detachments you could purchase. One of them had a longer nose. But out of the box if you purchased a 72 it came with the short nose. It helps with stopped chamfers but if you're doing a decent size chamfer you wouldn't be able to get within six to eight inches of a stop. You'd still have to come in with a chisel and do it by hand.
Yes, if you do anything decent then you chop most of the waste rougly and quickly with a chisel or a drawknife and then you refine with the plane i guess. (Thus the narrow sole)
Another interesting unique tool vids, so like these, so interesting and educational for those who like to know the history of our passion. Bit OT, but plane related, want to buy a brand new plane, one that would be the most useful generally and I think I've finally narrowed it down to 2, either a No.5 or No.62, both with 2 blades setup 1 for smoothing, 2 for bit rougher cut, which would you choose James if you were making this decision for a versatile plane?
for me I would get the #5. the low angle is great for the beginner, but after getting the skills down I find the higher angel to be far more versatile.
Thanks for the reply James. Now the 2nd part of the question - which brand would you choose? I'm looking hard at the WoodRiver as my option, anything better in that sort of price range
They are far more expensive to produce. And for general use was an able-bodied person is a tend to get in the way more than provide function. But for someone with hand issues it is a fantastic addition.
there is a longer nose as well as the bull nose plus a beading attachment 72 1/2… the sounds not great on these but watch…. Stanley Number 72 - Chamfer Plane ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-EZw2nrjPsw0.html Stanley Number 72 1/2 Chamfer Beading Plane ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-A_7UyM6OBis.html
