The STARTER (2of2): Removal and Overhaul (Replace brushes) | HONDA INNOVA GARAGE | WAVE | 2010 

Thanks!👍

My Suzuki service manual for my bike specified sanding it with 400 grit to clean it…

@@bmicona yep, i did too. I lightly sanded the commutator on my car's starter, installed the new brushes, new solenoid and cleaned everything. It still works well 3 years later.

Thank you sir🎉♥️👍

thank you very much sir.

THANKS👍

Thanks for sharing. It is very difficult to give online advice, it is a little like trying to learn swimming by written explanations. If you are ready to play a game as a hobby, you will upload a short video to RU-vid describing the problem. Adjusting Expectations: It is NOT always easy to see the problem, NOT even on video. Then you'll attach a link to your video here. Good luck.

No, just clean and do not sand, because it will destroy the special coating. Cleaning with 70% alcohol is fine. Just recently I opened the starter of the CBR250R after 66,000km. I found a lot of powder dust from the abrasion of the brushes, and of course I cleaned it and greasing the contacts with electrically conductive grease (Vaseline). The brushes were in excellent condition almost like new (in terms of length), and there were slight abrasion marks on the rotor. I can not measure how much this treatment prolongs the life of the starter, but it is a hobby, and I do not pay a mechanic's salary, so I did it. Today the brushes are not made from a major component of charcoal as was customary in the past, but are made from complex materials that are much more durable and probably do not need any special maintenance. As I understand it, traditionally Honda still presents an explosion drawing of the starter and allows the purchase of brushes as part of the list of spare parts. To me it seems almost unnecessary.

Hey. If there is electrical conductivity or there is no electrical conductivity, I tested it with the function that has a diode drawing (On my multimeter dial that function is at 6 o'clock), and the multimeter I used also had a speaker that makes a "beep" sound when there is conductivity. But in the video the original sound is muted so you do not hear that "beep". Look at: 3:24 4:55 6:50

Hi YES at 7:21 NO at 7:36 It's nice that you noticed that, at 7:36 it's a mistake But not a mistake that has meaning. And as I will explain now: The ring from the brown material should be between two metal rings. So it possible as you see at 7:21 (between two metal rings) and at 7:33 (between two metal rings) And yes, in my case there are three rings, and there is the front ring at 7:33 That means four rings together (3 + the one at the front) These rings do not have a separate catalog number, but all four are shown in the exploded view. In my Honda's catalog parts there is no special explanation about a ring that is made of a different material (the brown ring), I first saw that brown ring when I disassembled the motor myself.

The chance for a problem at the starter is low, the battery is more likely to fail, that's the statistics. Always start with the simple and cheap things. The side stend is folded? Is there fuel in the fuel tank? Shake the motorcycle from side to side, do you hear the movement of fuel in the tank? Is the battery powerful enough to run the fuel pump? Do you hear the pump buzzing in the ON position switch? Even without a battery at all, when pushing the motorcycle and shifting into first gear, the engine starting? (and with the Kickstarter)?

@@MyINNOVAMotorcycling thanks for getting back to me. The bike has had issues in that I let it get wet one night and then it struggled to start. I don’t hear the fuel pump engaging upon turning the key, and the only way which is will start is by running it into second (no kick, it’s an L4). I do know that there is a power drain because my battery never lasts long and I have two spares which I charge and swap. Could this be complicated by the indicators which are currently not working? Thank you for any advice🙏

@@joshturner3263 If you manage to start the engine it is an encouraging condition, a good condition. In such a situation the motor only operates on voltage from the coils, the coils do not have enough power to operate the indicators. See here: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-d9PcDVDjBK8.html Try to measure if there is a current leak, for that measurement see here: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-erj0A4pQLFY.html Chances are your two batteries are out of order, and all you need to do is replace the battery. And maybe I'm wrong??? Just please, sharing my experience is one thing, the responsibility for using the information is on you. If you have difficulty solving the problem, please consult a qualified mechanic in your area. Thank you very much.

@@MyINNOVAMotorcycling I’ve charged a lead battery and tried that today... it started! I know there is still a leak from the blown indicators, so when I get the sprockets changed I’ll get that checked as well. Thank you for your help and expertise! Joshua

In motorcycles with 4 cylinders engine there are 4 carburetor that should be tuned with Carburetor Synchronizer and Adjustment Tool Kit - Vacuum Gauge. Each carburetor should be tuned separately. In each carburetor there are usually two screws: main jet adjustment screw, and idle mixture screw. As far as I understand, your carburetors came out of tuned. And maybe the problem is more complex, or it's not about carburetors at all. Please go to a qualified mechanic who will see the problem. If you like Doing-It-Yourself like me, you might find an interesting in the following video: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-eplUH9hXa8c.html

This is my honda passport c70 it only has one carb and one cylinder an idle adjustment and fuel screw

@@thomaslockley945 Okay. If so, it's probably much simpler. Maybe you're not using the choke properly? And maybe the carburetor is not adjusted right, and then you don't need any special tool except a flat screwdriver. Maybe your jet syringe is not suitable, it should fit to the altitud where you living, there is a differences between sea level or in the high mountains. Maybe the problem is somewhere else? Please contact a qualified mechanic, it seems to me that he will easily solve your problem. Thank you very much.

03:17 metal-fiber-metal 07:18

@@MyINNOVAMotorcycling Thanks- that makes sense if the role of the fiber shim is to restrict any current from either side. I appreciate the quick response. thank you!

The fiber does not make electrical insulation, because the electricity in any case could passes through the axis. The fiber functions as a bearing, a type of friction bearing, whose function is to take axial loads.

@@MyINNOVAMotorcycling Good to know- thank you!!

Yes it is possible. The O-RING area should be coverd and sealed well so as the hinge and bearing area. Also, covering the positive pole, the connecting flangs for not to damage the electrical conductivity of the negative pole. The two black cylindrical stripes are sealing rubber, should coverd them too. Can the process be completed safely, it much depends on your acquired skill? How much would you be prepared to pay for it? How much time and patience do you have? These are questions that only you can answer them.

שקד, אני שמח שאתה צוחק. יש הרבה הומור סמוי בסרטים שלי, מי שמבין וצוחק זה טוב. אני חושב שעיקר המנויים שלי כאן בעבור סוג של בילוי כמו לצפות בטלוויזיה. לגבי הסטרטר הנוסף, אתה כמובן צודק. כמעט. אני מסביר: לדעתי הטעות הקלסית, אם אפשר לומר ככה, שרבים נוטים לחשוב שעשה-זאת-בעצמך חוסך כסף. האמת תלוי איך מתמחרים את עלות הלימוד? כי מחיר הלימוד יקר, גם ארון כלי עבודה לא תמיד יהיה זול...אז יותר חוסכים? אולי יותר נהנים? או שניהם? אסור להסתכן בנושאים של בטיחות, ואם לא הולך צריך לשים את האגו בצד ולפנות למוסך מורשה. מי שלא מסוגל שלא יתחיל לתקן לבד. במוסך המכונאי תמיד יכול לשלוף חלק משומש לצורך בדיקה, החובבים אין להם זמינות כזאת לחלקים. לפעמים אני מזמין חלק ואז לא עושה בו שימוש, מזמין רק כדי לא להפריע לשתף העבודה למקרה שהזדקק לו. אמרתי, מדובר בתחביב שעולה כסף. סלונואיד גנרי, שעומד במפרט החשמלי, אבל לא עומד במפרט של מידות וגודל מכני, לפעמים ידרוש התאמות ולפעמים לא. זה עניין של סוג החיבורים, מאיכן הם נכנסים, וגם עניין הגודל הפיזי. אם יש לך מפרט חשמלי מלא, ומפרט מכני מלא, אתה בהחלט יכול לחפש לפיו תחליפים. אין כאן בלעדיות להונדה. לגבי הסטרטר, צריך את התושבות המכניות שמתאימות למנוע. לבנות מתאמים מכניים זה בדרך כלל נחשב ליותר קשה (צריך יכולת עיבוד מכני, וכו). אבל תחליפים שמתאימים לדגם אופנוע מסוים יש, עם תושבות מסויימות, זה יש, כגון: התחליף שאני הזמנתי מחברת "MAX". גם הסטרטר הוא גנרי, אין כאן פטנטים מיוחדים, ורוב הסיכוי שהמוצר התחליפי לא יפחת מאיכות המוצר המקורי. יש תחליפים זולים, ויש תחליפים משופרים שיכולים להיות יקרים יותר מהמקור. מי שמתקשה בקריאת מפרטים, ואין לו ידע רב בהנדסת מכונות, מומלץ לו להצמד לחלקים המקוריים של הונדה. הפיתוי ללכת על תחליפי גדול כאשר פערי המחיר גדולים. תודה על המילים היפות, תמשיך ליהנות מצפיה בערוץ, רוב רכיבות טובות ובטוחות.

YES The dark marking in the commutator is a special coating to reduce wear. Vaseline is to prevent rust.

My INNOVA Motorcycling I’ve been reading further and electrical contacts corrode - apply the Vaseline after you connect them and not before. The dark coating on the commutator is copper oxide from the copper in the commutator and not a special coating. It is perfectly in order to clean it off and definitely not a special coating

In my INNOVA I do not have a carburetor, Your idea is good. Maybe I'll find a carburetor, and one day I'll upload a video as your good advice. Thanks.

@@MyINNOVAMotorcycling thank you sir,her in phillippines like your motorcycle hondawave 125 have a carborator.i hope someday you can upload thank you sir more power

The magnet is permanently attached to the metal cylinder which is the central part of the motor housing. The gluing is done with a special glue. This central part, the "cylinder", does not have a separate Catalog Number, and if it broken then a NEW Starting-Motor needs to be ordered. It may be possible to gluing what is broken, but these are usually special and expensive adhesives that will cost you more than a NEW Starting-Motor . Also not sure the gluing will help. Buy a NEW Starting-Motor, sometimes an Aftermarket Part("MAX") is good and cheaper, see here: 8:32 [Google-Translate mula sa Ingles tungo sa Filipino] Ang pang-akit ay permanenteng nakakabit sa silindro ng metal na kung saan ay ang gitnang bahagi ng pabahay ng motor. Ang pagdikit ay tapos na sa isang espesyal na pandikit. Ang gitnang bahagi na ito, ang "silindro", ay walang hiwalay na Numero ng Catalog, at kung nasira ito pagkatapos ay isang BAGONG Simula-Motor ay kailangang mag-order. Maaaring posible na idikit kung ano ang nasira, ngunit kadalasan ito ay mga espesyal at mamahaling mga adhesive na mas malaki ang gastos sa iyo kaysa sa isang BAGONG Simulang-Motor. Hindi rin sigurado na makakatulong ang gluing. Bumili ng isang BAGONG Simula-Motor, kung minsan ang isang Aftermarket Part ay mabuti at mas mura, tingnan dito:

Thanks sir for the advice

היי. אני לא זוכר, אולי כדי לראות שהוא מסתובב טוב ולא תקוע, לראות שהוא תקין באופן עקרוני. בדיקה כללית. בדיקות חשובות אחרת לא נמצאות בסירטון הזה בכלל. למשל צריך לבדוק כאשר מנוע הסטרטר מחובר למנוע, צריך לבדוק נפילת מתח על ההדקים של המצבר בזמן ההתנעה. אם המתח במצבר תקין, מעל 12.4V שזה תנאי בסיסי, ואז מודדים בנוסף אם המתח בזמן התנעה נופל מתחת ל 10V. מצבר שלא מסוגל להיטען למתח מעל 12.4V, או מצבר שאינו מחזיק מתח מעל 10V בזמן התנעה, הוא מצבר מקולקל. ואם כבר מחזיקים מד מתח אז בודקים גם שיש הטענה תקינה: מתח מעל 13.2 וולט בטורים של סרק. ולא יותר מ 15.5 וולט בסל"ד 5000 ומעלה. עינבר שים לב שהסרטים שלי מיועדים למי שיודע, או לצורך ידע כללי ובידור. אני לא מעודד לעשה זאת בעצמך, ההפך, אני נגד. הם לא קורס ללימוד רציני. אני לא פתחתי קורס במכונאות, זאת גם לא הכוונה שלי. אני נהנה לשתף, זה יותר בידורי, תחביב שלי. לכן אל תניח שכל מה שאני כותב זה ככה וככה. אני משתף. מה שאנשים עושים במידע זה על אחריותם הבלעדית. מכונאות דורשת הרבה מאוד ידע,, כלי עבודה ויכולות שיש במוסך מורשה, ולבד זה ממש לא מומלץ ויכול להסתיים באסון. אני רק אומר שככה וככה, משתף. כל אחד עושה את השיקולים שלו.

The problem for me was somewhere else. The coal brush in my starter was just fine. So now I have two starters, the "MAX" starter and the originel of "Honda". The elusive problem I had was the battery, I had a weak battery.

You're right, there was no need to replace the starter. I was looking for a problem that would appear and then disappear, so I said to myself: "I will replace...and then I will see what happens". The technique of replacing parts to rule out problems is an accepted technique in the industry.

@@MyINNOVAMotorcycling Mine won't start on the button only the kickstarter, just trying process of elimination.

@@MyINNOVAMotorcycling Taken the starter motor off and decided to strip it down and guess what there was a lot of engine oil in it 😢

@@stevepowell4946 Maybe your battery is weak? ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-d9PcDVDjBK8.html

@@MyINNOVAMotorcycling Removed the starter motor and decided to open it up to check the brushes and found it to have engine oil in it.

You are absolutely right👍👍👍 There is a one-way clutch, when there is the small resistance of the electric motor it really does not rotate. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-VXwEpMLnFHg.html

@@MyINNOVAMotorcycling Thank you so much

According to pictures on the internet ,I looked for: "Honda XR200 Starter Motor", it has a different adapter (Different location for the screws). I do not know what about the other dimensions. It does not seem to fit. It is best that you contact and asking someone that understand and can see your model with their own eyes. Sometimes even models with the same name only from different production series, different years, can be different. good luck.

@@MyINNOVAMotorcycling thank u sir

You are absolutely right. Probably your did a wrong translation. I didn't wrote "water resistant coating" 4:51, I wrote "'wear resistant coating. Wear coatink like Anti-abrasion coating. NOT wear like "Water"', whitch these are two different words. Anyway thank you so much for your attention.

@@MyINNOVAMotorcycling even still, that is not a wear resistant coating! that is dirt and it needs cleaning off!, with fine sand paper.......... you should also clean out the gaps between each part of the commutator.

@@firstnamelastname-lr2vf NO NO NO No, it's NOT dirt, it's a chocolate brown coating. It's a coating that improves abrasion resistance. If you take it down with sandpaper it just won't be there, not critical, but why ruin a Special Coating which comes to help you?

Cant even admit when your WRONG WRONG WRONG WRONG??? Can you read? If you know how to do something so well but your trolling around other videos to talk crap your a TROLL TROLL TROLL TROLL... So much nonsense on the internet ... LOL

@@clg_pro2009 I agree with you. That's definitely carbon build up on the comutator but why so rude bro? Lol