Lmaoo I sometimes get frustrated when the part like warps slightly and then I can’t use it so I gotta reorient it and try it again. (Also my files have thumbnails that show up on my printer and I’m too lazy to descriptively name them)
@@tiger3dprinting Yes, definitely. What may be a bigger problem is when you have too many files related to a single project and only one of them is meant to actually be printed. You have to make sure you can remember what they were all for later and also you have to name them in such a way that you don't lose track of the "final" one. "FINAL VERSION for real" "BROKEN VERSION doesnt work" "Component number 1 UNFINISHED" "IMPORT INTO BLENDER"
While I am late to this video, I was wondering what the exposure times you used on the SL1S for this resin were. Also, curious about the washing and curing times so as to avoid over-exposure to IPA and UV. Thanks
Try increasing the light off delay to reduce warping. Use that light off delay to try to add three seconds of print time to each layer overall and see if that helps.
Though normally that helps, the printer o used doesn’t use light off delay. Rather it uses a tilting vat which effectively eliminates the need for light off delay. That being said I saw no noticable difference by having fast vat tilting speed vs slow tilting. Me and my friend did an experiment and with this resin using light off delay there was no quantifiable differences in print quality using light off delay. Some printers reacted differently than others.
@@tiger3dprinting I see. You may want experiment with the light intensity to see if a lower or higher setting prevents warping. I would think a lower intensity setting would result in a slower cure time and so that would help, but it would be interesting to experiment with it.
I’m waiting on a printer that allows adjustment in uv intensity so I will likely be doing testing with this, but on both my printers of vastly different light intensity I’m seeing no differences.
@@tiger3dprinting The light off delay serves a very different purpose than you think. It's not there to let the resin flow back under the building area. It's present *after* the build plate is released back down (in this case the vat is tilted back to horizontal position) and lets the resin being squeezed out properly as it doesn't happen instantaneously but takes time.
Might I suggest that if you want to test UTS you could suspend a barrel from your testpiece and then begin to fill it with a hosepipe. 1 Litre of water weighs 1kg of course.
That’s a good idea, although i would have to make an extremely small test piece which might give an unfair advantage to resin parts when comparing it to fdm since resin works much better with small objects. The reason I say this is that I tried printing a 5mm by 5mm sample to see if I could break it by hanging on it and it took my entire weight on that small area (I don’t think I have a bucket large enough)
I know I'm late to the game on this, but how does it hold up for balljoints? Does it dust really bad or does it work better than M58 ABS-Like resin that has basically no dusting? (Dusting being when the ball grinds against the inside of the joint the resin grinds away instead of glides over itself resulting in quickly deteriorating joints)
@@protostar8 Siraya Fast Mecha is supposed to have no dusting and is kind of self-lubricating, do a search for "make gears and drives with fast mecha - Siraya tech", hope that helps, I have some that I just received but haven't tested it yet.
Hey mate... Brand new to the Resin printing world. I've just gotten myself a Resin printer and i was wondering if you had to change any settings to print with this resin?
Hey, yeah you always have to adjust the settings for every resin, this resin comes with a sheet with settings for most common printers but if yours isn’t on there, then you’ll need to adjust the settings.
You need to adjust settings for every resin. Sometimes even between different colors, but fortunately, 3dmaterials include a little paper with the exposure settings for many printers, so that will get you very close
I use a mix of standard and siriya Tenacious at the moment. After printing I use hot water to bend to reshape my prints and then cold water to solidify them in their new shape. From what I read I will be able to do the same with this resin. After a few hours/days the print will always go back to its original flat shape. I use CA glue to hold it back but the force pulling it back to its original shape is strong. Do you think I'll have better results with this resin ? I have tried to shape and then UV cure but it doesn't change much...
The problem with trying to reshape parts after printing is that almost all resins will slowly spring back to their original shape. If you try to counteract this with glue or anything else it may work but will cause the part to have internal stresses reducing the overall strength. My recommendation would just be to design something as such that when printed you don’t need to modify the shape with hot water to make it fit. That being said this resin I have managed to bend and then post cure in that bent shape and it somewhat keeps that shape but there will be internal stresses in the part.
I'm looking for tough resin to print a 14 cm diameter centrifuge drum spinning at ~12,000 RPM, which should generate ~10,000 g. Tinting it is easy, but warping worries me, perfect balance at very high RPM is critical. But perhaps I experiment mixing it with other resins (if I can find it near me - ie in EU) Thanks for the video!
Tbh, last time I tried spinning some resin at 20k rpm the resin shattered and launched some plastic through my hand, so I’m a little bit weary of reccomending spinning resin
@@tiger3dprinting , yeah 20k RPM are a bit too much! From what I know CD/DVD discs shatter at ~22k RPM and they're made of polycarbonate which is considerably stronger than most resins. That's why I'm aiming at 12k for now. But I'll make few tests (in a box) to see how many RPM the resin print can survive, and dial it down if needed.
Yeah the hdt probably makes it not an amazing candidate for pellet extruder. SuperHDT is actually pretty strong and by far not the most brittle resin I’ve used though
@@tiger3dprinting it's priced similarly to Phrozen. Curing at 40 and 90deg helps with standard resin? Beko makes nice uvc5033ta oven that can be converted to UV-A. Often seen in outlets for 25$.
Yeah I roughly compared it to siraya blu near the end of the video, and based on further looking into it, this resin is more impact resistant by a fair bit, but doesn’t print quite as nice on its own as siraya blu. Tenacious is in a league of its own, and I have a video I’m working on comparing tenacious to superFlex resin, from 3DMaterials. The elephant foot is due to a slight issue with this resin that causes it sometimes to “overcure” or cure past where it’s supposed to, I explained it as best I could in the video
That stuff looks amazing. For Suraya, it's recommended to blend the tenacious with the blue to add impact resistance and ductility, giving what you have there. I've tried the blue and its very hard and on the way to shatterable but not tried blend yet.
I wonder if adjusting the wavelength of light might have an effect at reducing (or amplifying) light penetration for the curved gradient facing the LCD problem, higher intensity light tends to penetrate more things, and lower intensity light tends to penetrate fewer things (the difference between gamma or xrays and radio-microwaves)
Yeah it probably would have an effect, although printers don’t have adjustable uv intensity so it’s hard to test. 365-395 would likely have the most the light penetration issue although I don’t know by how much.
@@tiger3dprinting Actually it's just pwm modulated. I was responding to the sub-comment on the fact that no printers are adjustable for intensity. The main comment seems to be conflating wavelength and intensity. We do not want to change wavelength as the reaction wavelength of the resins is fixed to a relatively narrow band generally speaking. Changing the intensity, however, is useful for bleed.
It was badly phrased on my part but I was phrasing it how Sam phrased it, using intensity as wavelength, as he mentioned different wavelength light as intensity. I know that lower intensity helps with bleed but I do not think that would have as large of an impact in this case as you might expect because lower uv power for longer time is easier for the lcd to block in non printing portions of the VAT but not necessarily helps with the issue I was finding here. I tried it on both the sl1s and the sl1 which have vastly different light intensities and if anything it was better on the SL1S because of the shorter cure times.
Many, I have like 4kg of this stuff and Plan to continue with testing combinations. So far I’ve found if I mix it with abs like resin it gets quite nice properties
@@tiger3dprinting Alas, the slaughter of serpents and clips must continue in the name of absolutely detailed and satisfying print videos and comparisons. If you were a seller, I'd drop $20 for an Aeon Pro pusher to be printed with your resin magic 🙌
@@tiger3dprinting No worries, your stellar craftsmanship is beyond what I can offer to pay~ In the end, so long as the automatic cheese grater is operational, the resin will be of good personal use~
I reprinted the gear on that and it worked until something completely unrelated to my printed fix exploded😂 Do let me know tho if you need anything printed that’s within my price offering (anything less than that the shipping is ridiculous)
@@tiger3dprinting nice ..oh and be careful stress testing parts with your fingers. I managed to separate my knuckle and break a tendon stress testing my prototypes. Getting old sux
Yeah I’ve gotten plastic through my finger so I am definitely trying to take precaution especially with facial protection but also during some of the more sketchy stuff I wore welding gloves
Thanks so much for the video. I have not heard of this resin before, so glad you published a video on it. Also, I appreciate your 'common persons' approach to testing the strength of the resins. Some (ok most) RU-vid videos I've come across involve testing apparatuses that have lots of interesting data - but only applicable for engineers that understand that data. Are the links you used affiliate marketing for you? If so, I'll gladly use them
I’m glad you found this video useful👍 I would like to find some better ways of actually comparing the different resins, as in actually testing them to their breaking point, but yeah I find visualization is a good method of depicting strength. The links are not affiliate unfortunately.
@@tiger3dprinting to be honest, I think there are too many of those technically tested clips. Unless people are engineers, the more common the test the more relative it is to people. Do a height drop test, a crush test with a weight. Whatever the common way people may damage a print, do a test that way. Makes it more relevant to those that may be using these prints.
Yeah I was more saying like, comparison of a drop test of this versus another material just to give a sense of how much tougher it is, and also test it to its breaking point. Like for example I couldn’t get the carabiner to break by hanging my full weight on it, but I also couldn’t get the siraya tech blu one to break so that doesn’t really give a useful metric of comparison between the two except that they’re both extremely strong. In the future I will try to create tests that actually show differences between the materials I test.
i had a test run with 3DMaterials water washable clear. It wasnt a great success for me... the supports became "welded together", but the print was too soft... can anybody recommend how to set up my Mars3 to that? maybe my exposure times were not right?
This resin requires much lower exposure time, I’d try closer to 0.8s exposure time rather than the default. That’s what I use on my sl1s. Let me know if it works.
I have the SUPERPP from them and I have to say it is still very flexible after even a few days. Tried curing it in water to make it more rigid but nothing seems to help. I ured it for like an hour. They said it need more then 405nm but on their site they say 405 is enough. Any idee what I could do to stop it from bending. It does not break.
I think just as a material it is designed to be relatively flexible since they wanted it to be comparable to polyporpolene, but you could always try leaving it out in the sun to cure for a while since the sun has stronger uv light. Again though it’s pretty flexible no matter what you do.
Yeah I’ve noticed the smell is almost zero. They currently do not have any stiffer resins unless you want to use their superFast but that is just a standard resin. I think they are working on a stiff glass filled resin, I will let them know that there’s interest.
this video doesn't really prove anything, no real tests here, so you can't break a miniature, yeah cause tats the industry standard for doing strength tests, not every prints minis , it not like they need to be strong, you have given no information and its very easy to scam people with the video, you could put some flexible resin in the mix , and you only really comparing it to elegoo resin which is known for being brittle
😂 "Nothing of value" while the comment itself is NOTHING OF VALUE. F yourself dude. This example showed me exactly what I was looking for and no one else, especially not you, is adding ANYTHING. Beta af
Closer to the end of the video I did some comparisons to siraya blu, but tldr blu is slightly weaker and definitely less impact resistant but it prints with higher detail.
Interesting resin. Why not just narrate your videos with a voice? Having to listen to music and try to read the subtitles is way way harder and frankly annoying.
No I have not found that, I washed it in isopropyl alcohol and then cured it with 405nm uv light for 10 minutes, and it cleans very nicely in my opinion. 3DMaterials says that it cures better in 395nm uv light if you’re still having better.
I would say that is one of its strong suits, since it has an impact strength of 120j/m it is 2-10x better than any other resin I’ve tried when it comes to dropping/throwing it at hard surfaces
When I mixed them I basically just took the average of both settings so for my sl1(rgb display) I got 6.5 seconds for a 50-50 split, and then for my sl1s(mono screen) I got 1.4s for the same 50-50 split. Keep in mind different printers will have vastly different exposure times.
