The Top 5 Most OVERPRICED Mopar Parts You Find At A Swap Meet! 

I didn't realize they made that many hemi blocks in 66 compared to the later years. Awesome info. Thank you.

Points plugs i started on them back in the late 1970s you could set all the gaps with a paper match pack and use the striker portion to file the points. Never had an issue

Everything is over priced

Tom, talk about calling the kettle black I've seen the prices you charge as if they were made of gold.

Thanks Tom. Great info.

If ya don’t have a Jamie…. Lmao great vid Tom.

Thanks for the history lesson. It is amazing how you can keep all these facts straight.

Rocket Man... Burning out that fuse up there alone.

I remember a young guy in my home town who's parent's money bought him a new 1965 Plymouth Sport Fury with a 426 Hemi. He seemed to have many small issues with the engine-- it was very finicky. I don't recall any other 426 Hemis in town- the Mopar guys had either 383's or 440's

Well done!

Great video Tom! Im 28 and I prefer carburetors over fuel injection and I’m happy with the factory mopar electronic ignition. It’s a lot simpler and easier to work on than all of this computerized modern stuff.

Every shop & parts store should have a Jamie. :)

Great video Tom, and I know it goes without saying but for those youngsters out there, let the buyer beware. Good job Sir.

The long ram has the "sexy induction"tax lol.

Great subject Tom...I would add B body seats to the overpriced list..bench and bucket !

As a Chevy guy restoring his first Plymouth i can say everything Mopar is over priced and yes those 69 Barracuda plastic headlight bezels are 600.00 plus for NOS if you can find them or primo used. Plastic grills , tail light's, tail panels, dash panels. solid steel front fenders etc. has whip lashed my wallet and is still going strong to date.

As a lot of people have said, these parts and the cars that use them will drop. Just like Cords and other 30's cars dropped. 40 years ago they said a 50's Nomad would be 2 million dollars by the year 2000. That did not happen but Cudas hit 2 million. Almost every one driving a vintage muscle car is over 65 and some will pass away and others will go to senior housing where they have no room for most of their cars. Most people under 30 aren't interested in vintage cars and many aren't interested in cars at all.

One thing about the long rams. There is not a single set of the exhaust manifolds for sale. The only way to buy one would be to buy a 80 thousand dollar letter series car. You need the exhaust manifolds to support the weight, or the intakes will crack in short order. I used to see guys put them in cars without the manifolds. They claimed there is no problem, but, when pressed, admitted that the car is just moved on a trailer, not actually driven. Smarter guys rig up some kind of angle iron to provide support, though, obviously that does not solve the warm up problem. Also, the manifolds hit the fenders of any car 1965 and newer.

Hey Tom-Great video, thanks for sharing! I was actually surprised to hear the information on 71’ challengers…not so much about the rear panel displayed but information about the RT stuff that wasn’t available. I have a 71’ challenger (original 383/4barrel car) that was basically a “sleeper”-(rally gauges, slapstick, suregrip, RT-options but modest dressings-flat hood, no callout badging) I didn’t realize that none of the higher option stuff was available that year; kinda strange. Question…Is there any chance you have a rear glass for a 66’ Sport Fury? We had a tornado come through a month ago and it got both my windshield and rear glass. I know the windshields are available but I have not found any sources for the rear glass if it is being reproduced. I’m near Tulsa so I know it would be an expensive piece to ship but I also know you guys have love for C body’s and figured you would be a good place to ask. Thanks, Ryan

YOu made me sad a bit about the '71 Challenger tail panel. Every one I've seen at a swap meet has been in two pieces, usually broken apart rather than cleanly separated. Mine is well weathered but complete, but unless a nice shiny complete one shows up at a swap meet I'm going to have to refurb it. Looking forward to the most expensive/best value video... when I started buying still available parts from the dealer back in the early '80s maybe I managed to win a little lottery ticket (probably not though) ;)

I've found that 1 year only, really drives up the price. My '57 D100, is basically unchanged from previous models. But the front clip is '57 specific. Decent front trim and headlight buckets hard to find. I've had this truck since the early 80's, and Ive been told the wrap around rear window is hard to replace. "80 Powerwagon grill. Quad headlights. Mine has a bad crease on the drivers side. And snap on buttons for an old style weather front. I picked up a '76-'78 in very good condition for a $100. Quad headlamp they want $800 or more.

I am not really a MoPar guy “by nature” but always wanted and finally (as in 35 years later) purchased a first generation Barracuda. I doubt I will own another; not because I don’t like others but with budget and storage space constraints, I have to “chose my battles” carefully! I would generally say that most parts common parts for it are reasonably priced (given the current economic conditions we live in), with the exceptions being things like plastic tail light and backup light lens and the chrome surrounds they reside in, and the as already mentioned headlight bezels. The one area that seems overpriced to me are the interior parts: $1000 for a full set of seat covers, another $800-1000 for door panels, armrest are not cheap, carpet sets are not cheap but probably not horrible given the acreage they have to cover. I understand some of it (supply and demand) but looking at the same parts prices for a ‘64-‘66 Mustang sure can make a guy’s heart sink! I do see quite a few parts I need that I don’t go after just because they are overpriced and the sellers are convinced they have something much rarer than they actually are! Yeah, sometimes I am willing to pay a few extra buck for something just out of convenience (I am standing in front of it, I need it, and don’t want to waste more time and gasoline just to save a few bucks). But some of the parts I need are just not high demand items. Example, I need the fold down back section of the rear seat and the “towel bar” seat release and I am just not willing to overpay for one when I know some patience will yield one at a price I can feel good about … and that I don’t have to pay to ship. 👍 on the “top ten” list videos for me! Being a noob and not really active within MoPar circles, it is good to know how the parts market is moving, what to expect to find, and what to expect to pay.

Hi there! Thanks for the info! What is your take on the hyper pack manifold for the slant 6?

6al MSD fired by points will eliminate points burning by dropping the current across points to a few hundred miliamps vs. several amps in stock ignition

Re old points distributors and vacuum advance, they aren't worth using with points because the point cam lobes wear down. This is why there's all these problems with them. You might think the wear can be adjusted out, which it can to a point. If the wear goes beyond a certain point however, as the vac cannister pulls the breaker plate during cruise what happens is the point gap goes very close to closing because the breaker plate rotates on an arc that is offset to the distributor shaft. When the lobes are in good condition, the slight closing of the points is irrelevant at light load cruise, but when worn the car can misfire and cut out and as soon as you floor it miraculously come back to life. This happened to me on a 383 point distributor, so I went looking through my parts, and eventually found a 440 distributor, swapped in the top part of the distributor shaft and it was almost the same. They're just not worth mucking around with. As you say the points just don't adjust within spec and the worn lobes are the primary reason for it.

Dual points, like on a 69 GTX with the Track Pac were great. I mean 100-200 dollar great. Not (ROFL) 750 dollar great. You got a better spark because you get a longer dwell.

These parts easier to find today but the younger kids have no interest in these motors or 18 foot land barges

You forgot to mention a833s especially the early 65 ones and the overdrive transmissions. Lately I see people asking $500-600 I’ve routinely bought OD trans for $150 ish

I wonder why that is Tom.. you tend to demand premium prices for your parts. You are talking about what you will pay, not what you sell them for...

You forgot the '66-'67 Charger back tail light configuration and front grill with the matching hide away headlights.

Personally, I think EVERYTHING is overpriced these days.... especially almost anything Mopar-related. It's even spilled over into the AMC world where Rebel Machines, AMX's and even the later-shape Javelins are topping 50-grand. Or when people (who have no idea what it takes to restore a car) offer up a vehicle that has absolutely ZERO aftermarket support, and they will try to sell it at restored-car prices all the time crowing about "how easy it would be to fix!". You just need a welder, several years of welding practise, a frame jig, a sheet metal brake, several english wheels, a computer -aided Plasma cutter, and a crew of at least 10 men of virtual true. SO EASY!

Did you get to buy the small block six pack intake at the estate sale in Montana? Complete setups are sometimes way overpriced. Jamie was looking for one sometime back.

That distributor was not a 340. It was big block for sure.

Top 5 classic Mopars you can still afford to buy and drive. Bonus if 4 of the 5 are not A bodies. AMC and Jeed would also be acceptable. Top 5 mods to make your classic Mopar a better daily driver. Side note: I really want to replace my winter beater Imprezza with an AMC Eagle.

Anything and everything Australian Chrysler is going through a grossly overpriced phase. I'm thinking of getting rid of all mine, and getting an old Holden, which used to be the big dollar item.

I believe there was Hemi blocks cast on February 8 67, and many casting dates in late 66, which would have been destined for 67 model year cars.

"If you dont have a Jamie" LOL

Nothing wrong with a humble brag at all.

Hemis didn't sell very well because they were different. Regular car buyers, even people who wanted big power wanted nothing to do with hemis because they did not understand them. They thought they would cost more over the long run to maintain and would be difficult to work on. The old reliable 440 was usually the choice.

Cool video , not asking price but how rare is 72 440ci w/ 6-barrel complete ?

Jamie is gonna want a raise if you keep vaunting him...

Hello, I want a hood molding for my 67 satellite that is in like new condition. Do you have any for sale? I may have a friend going to Chryslers at Carlisle. Are you going?

I am confused. There were 71 Challeger R/T's 383, 440 six pac, 426 Hemi. Hard tops, not converts.

We’re all going to get rich selling muscle cars (and parts) to each other.

The most overpriced mopars .. 1. All 2. of 3 .them 4. especially 5. Forward look

So, for people who want to run points, are NOS point sets or even aftermarket point sets made many years ago worth much?

I need a 64 Dodge Dart 270 tail light lens check that price

Find me a fan shroud, A FAN SHROUD, that isn't $150. It's ridiculous. I could go on.

Face it just about anything from the mopar years back then is way over priced. But try to find something. Like my '60 Fury, fender emblems don't exist. My '79 Lil Red Express a used grill folks want like $1,000.00 for it. Ok you can get re-pops for the like 67-71 stuff. But the forward look era cars nothing. Heck LMC has realized dodge truck owners are out there and they got bumpers and the fuel tank sending unit, which no one made.

There is a reason why they quit making all this crazy stuff most of it don’t work

I will agree with you, I have seen people who have paid thousands for them and I have also seen people who have jacked the car up wrong and either pop them loose or break them.

Just get a used 5.0 coyote mustang n beat so called engine builders on RU-vid lol. But if justmoparjoe pulls up on you just make a left turn n avoid him.

Engine cores for rebuilding. It blows me away that people are paying $1200-1500 or more for low compression RV 440s that are usually missing parts. 383s. Unless you are selling a factory 4bbl magnum/SuperCommando type 383, you don't have anything special. There is more power potential in a 400, so if you are rebuilding, I wouldn't bother with a 383. 413 Industrial/RV/Truck motors. They have oddball heads/water pump configuration that are worthless and unusable in any other application. Low compression pistons with very few options for replacement and none that are cheap. You are basically selling a block, crank, rods, and whatever other doodads you can salvage like the oil pan and valve and timing chain covers. They aren't worth $800, Hoss. Rant over.

Watch those Pertronic conversions!!

basically too basic of a basically too basic video

(1) There's a SUCKER born every minute... (2) Most of these parts are "unicorns". This video was useless to the majority of Mopar enthusiasts.

The problem with points from the parts stores today are most of the parts store sell the cheap ones which are junk there is a better brand I believe it's Blue streak but I'm not 100% sure we got an old Ford tractor what is 8N that uses points you put them cheap ones in there two or three weeks later

I was told that the short rams are the hard ones to find I had to set of long Rams 30 years ago I think I sold them for 20 bucks but that's all I had was the manifolds I didn't have no hardware