A lot of your complaints have to do with the very nature of the bike. It is a 250. It's really not meant for sustained highway driving in excess of 50 MPH hence the disc brakes, smaller tires etc. You SHOULD feel nervous over 55 MPH because you're literally pushing the bike to its absolute limit. It only performs well around town because that is what it is built and designed to do. Likewise it wouldn't be fair to complain that a Hayabusa is too touchy and powerful for neighborhood street driving, because it isn't at all designed to do that.
Hi Allagi. Thank you for your comment. You do make some valid points. I was hoping that Suzuki come to its senses and put in a bigger engine. I really love the style of the bike.
@@ReluctantBikerNYC I’m not a biker but looking to get into riding (mid life crisis lol)….I read the original post as well as your valid response with interest….and it made me wonder, whether Suzuki, didn’t put a more powerful engine in it because it might come into direct conflict with other products in their range (as well as find themselves lacking in other areas such as use of drum brakes at the rear when compared to their competitors who may have similarly big engines, but much more updated ‘stuff’). I know car companies do this a lot - one example is how marquees deliberately don’t fit bigger engines /more power to avoid being in direct competition with other marquees i their same ‘family’. I can’t remember the model but I think it was Maserati or Alfa Romeo, who’s engine at the time could have been more powerful but they chose not to because that would make it more powerful than one of the Ferrari models (at the time Ferrari and Maserati or was it Alfa were part of the same family). As you can imagine, things would definitely not go down well hahahahaha So perhaps using this as an example, is why this model isn’t fitted with a more ‘beefier’ engine? As I say, I’m not a biker so happy to be shot down by others who do ride lol, but I will confess I’ve always wanted to own and ride a Hayabusa (so pre-2012 model) before they start chucking on too many electronic restrictions, which I fear may happen in years to come. With this in mind I’m looking at good bikes for newbies and like yourself I do love the look of the bike…..I’ve been strongly advised by experienced rider friends not to get a Suzuki Hayabusa as a first bike, because regardless of how careful I am, the throttle response and size/weight of the bike means it would be more easier for a newbie to get into serious trouble unlike a less powerful / smaller model. Either way your video about things you ‘hate’ about this model is great for someone like me as I get to see both sides of the coin….and reading through comments, means I can see the advise people provide to address some of these issues. Thanks mate 🙏😎
@friktion rc Thanks mate! I appreciate your input! I absolutely agree with your friends when they say you should not get a Suzuki Hayabusa as a first bike. Please stay away from such a speed demon. It's only trouble, especially since this will be your first bike. Believe, recently I learned a very good lesson in biting more than one can chew. After selling my Guzzi V7, I purchased a Z900RS, and man, I gradually started sensing that the bike was trouble. And it turned out that it was. Will share that story very soon with you. Have you look at the Royal Enfields, especially the Interceptor 650? Please do. They are amazing bikes!
@@ReluctantBikerNYC Thanks for the extremely kind advice...and yes you are right such powerful machines will not end well for a newbie like me (I think the love affair with a hayabusa is is more heart ruling head!!) but your advice is duly noted and will be heeded 😊 As for other options it's funny you mention the R.E. My first contact with a real bike was my Uncle's Royal Enfield (I was 2 and it was mid 1970s hahahaha) so it is deffinitely a brand I love, but as a newbie I'm just not familiar with the different models so again thanks for the heads-up. I will check it out/do some more research about it 😎👍 Ride safe mate 🙏🙏
Brogue booster plug will cure that problem, and it will smooth out the throttle as well. Totally agree with the 16 tooth front sprocket as well, more top end speed before it starts to howl and a little more space between the gears. Made riding my TU a way funner experience.
Michael...thanks for responding here...can you explain what the booster plug mod does? I love the way this little scoot looks. Hoping to back on 2 wheels soon. edit: plug not blug lol
@@robjones8733 There are many manufacturers of booster plugs for allmosy every bike, I went with the Brogue plug. You can search online for others. What they do is make the fuel mixture richer in lower gears (1 to 3), and shut off at in higher gears allowing the fuel mixture to be leaner. This makes the throttle and shifting way smoother, and gets rid of the annoying stall that can happen every so often. There are lots of vids on booster plugs, I recommend watching a few.
Michael I'm 5'11" & 245 lbs, so I'm concerned the TU-250 would be far too underpowered (wishing it came in a 300 or 350). What do you think about horsepower modifications (in addition to the larger sprock front sprocket) such as a big bore kit, headers & a pipe... would those things work, plus do you have any other ideas?
@@walkerskii Brian, I understand you're concerns, they're valid. I am 6 feet 190lbs and I feel that the tu250 is the smallest bike I could ride. Around town it's great, it's not a tiny bike but it is so light I never feel like I could drop it. But getting up to highway speed 100k - 110k you really feel that single cylinder working hard. I have not yet tried any of the other mods like exhaust or cylinder bore, but I'm sure you can get a few more horse out of her. The tu250 is my first bike and I'm glad I didn't start out on the Triumph bonneville that I really wanted. It's given me a ton of confidence.
Thanks for your take on this! I started out on a KH 100 Kawasaki....drum brakes front and rear lol. I really like this little 'zuki. That Kawie 100 was an interesting critter. Two cycle. It had what Kawasaki called a Rotary Valve engine. The carburetor was on the side of the engine under a metal cover. The timing for intake was controlled by a spinning disc, as close to a cam for a two stroke we will ever see I think. That design allowed that little 100cc engine to have pretty respectable power down low plus it revved of course being a two stroker. This was an unusual alternative to the Reed Valve design that you usually see on two-cycle engines. Apologies for the history lesson. I have a soft spot for two strokers. : - ) Oh. Dad had a "Samurai" 250 Kawasaki when I was a kid, same Rotary Valve design, one carb on each side! Kawie also made a 350 "Avenger" same design. You could get these in low pipe or high pipe Scrambler like pop had!
Hi Rob, thanks for sharing your story, and no apologies needed. I truly enjoyed it, and I believe this is the proper forum for sharing those stories. I wish I had some of my own. Honestly your story made learn something new: the nature of rotary valves engines. It appears that that type of engine goes back quite a bit, all the way to 1903. The KH 100 sounds like the bike I would definitely have liked. It has the looks of an 1980s CBR 500. Very cool. Thanks again. Cheers!
If the gear gets stuck in neutral, don't rock the bike back and forth, slowly roll it forward till it drops into first. You should only have to roll it a foot to 18".
Might want to try switching to Amsoil motorcycle oil. I remembered that issue in 2011 when I bought my TU, but haven’t had it since, am now at 15,000 miles.
Tip, get a better exhaust, go to 16t front sprocket. Get a smaller rear sprocket, get a better air box for better airflow. You should be able to gain 5 more HP
Hi. Thank you for your suggestions. My TU250X does have a better exhaust. The previous owner put in a high performance muffler, and it's amazing. As for the sprocket, I will look into it. You're the second person who suggested it to me. Regarding the air box, I don't feel great about messing with it. Will keep it in mind, though. Thanks again. Be well.
Oh, man, I love the look of your bike on those Shinkos. Wow, what a difference! It looks a bit meaner with them on. Very cool. (Thanks for sharing the picture!) You seem to have done some substantial work in terms of improving your TU's performance. Did you do all that by yourself?
@Christopher Yack dude...you da man with all that gear on that scoot! Thanks for the input you are helping other folks out...oh and so is Reluctant Biker..thanks y'all
1. Breaks are superb at both low and high speeds for me. You have to break evenly using both breaks 2. This bike NEVER stalls. It has so much low end torque that you can start off from a complete stop in 2nd gear with no problem. I've been riding my TUX for 5 years for almost 135000KM so I know my bike 3. Use 90-90/18 for front and 120-80/17 for rear. Will do the trick of your "no confidence when taking corners" issue. Recently had a 490km long trip to up country on a very bendy road, so I know what I'm saying! 4. This bike made for higher low end torque, not high speeds. Also re-check your sprocket theeth count and use default values 5. Try to learn the mileage of your bike. Your brain will start to work as a fuel guage by just reading the tachometer
Hi Shyam. It is clear that you're very proud of your TU. They are fantastic bikes. I'm glad you find the brakes efficient on your TU. I have been riding bikes (Italians scooters for the most part, such as Vespa GTS 300 & the road king, BV 350) for about 6 years now, and when I compare the TU's brakes to my scooters, the TU's do not come close in quality or performance to those of my scooters. Then again, they cost twice as much. As for your comment that this bike never stalls, I find your case an exception. Many of my fellow riders on tu250riders.com/ would also find that odd since the TU is quite notorious for stalling with the rider being at no particular fault. As for the fuel gauge, I like your advice, though I don't particularly mind that it doesn't have one. And as far as the tires go, I will look into it. There is another fellow biker here who has given me some terrific advice on tires. In short, I thank you for sharing your opinion.
Hi Range Ryder. Coasting with the clutch in does not necessarily hurt the bike, but the theory is that it compromises the rider's safety. First, when coasting, if downhill, the rider does not have full control of the bike because the engine is not engaged.This point is not addressed in the video. Second, in the video, the point was--and so far it is a theory--that coasting with the clutch in can stall a bike. I have not noticed this happening with my bike, but there have been a few fellow riders who suggested I look into it. Thanks for tuning in, Range Ryder. Be well.
Hi Jedz. Yes, I think so. And I also think that the clutch cable might be responsible for the occasional stalling when the rider is at no particular fault. Come spring, I will definitely have it looked at.
Hi Bill! I’m sorry for not getting back to you sooner. I actually never tried lifting it for the purpose of removing the tire. I did use my car jack to lift the rear tire when cleaning the chain, but that’s it. Sorry I couldn’t be of more help. Hope you resolve the issue! Let me know. All the best!
Is this an easy shifting bike? The shifting has always intimidated me which is why I have stuck with LSM bikes early on. I am thinking to move up to a real bike though. Would you recommend for someone like me? Most of the reviews on it state one of the best for beginning rider...
Hi there. Yes, gear shifting on the TU is effortless. Would I recommend this bike? 100% yes without reservations. I have had this bike for about a year now, and the more I ride it, the more I love it--and man, one of the main reasons is the special exhaust pipe on it, which is not the stock one. The thing is, though, do some research because I can tell you that the Honda Rebel is also pretty good. Here are some bikes I considered when I made the switch from scooters to motorcycles: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-2wFgYVkH3VQh.htmlttps://ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-2wFgYVkH3VQ.html Hope this helps.
Sorry for the stupid question, but can the rear brake be swapped to disc brakes and if so, will that help from a safety perspective. I’m looking to get into riding and am pretty much sold as a TU250X as a first bike. I live in London, UK (outskirts) so won’t be doing much if any motorway (highway) riding…mainly on local roads and roads in built up areas. I’ve seen vids of folks doing lots of mods to this bike some aesthetic some more mechanical (e.g changing sprockets etc), but never seen anyone change the rear brakes hence why I was wondering if this was ever possible?
Hi brother from London! I no longer have the TU, but I do not think it is possible. I do not know of anyone who has done it. I do, however, suggest that you visit this TU forum (tu250riders.com/viewforum.php?f=1) and investigate there. If anyone has done it, you will find it there. Good luck and all the best!
Appreciate your postings wrt the smaller displacement motorcycles. I was pleasantly surprised to hear your assessment of the Honda Rebel 300. And no doubt the TU250X is a fine motorcycle when riding on lower speed roads.
The engine is heavily regulated by factory its setup for economy over performance a properly tuned 249cc can easily hit speeds of 90-102mph with a good retune, engine stall at idle is normally a carb issue one of the tuning needles could have a worn thread that is allowing it to turn in and out making the fuel air mix to rich or to lean.
@@ReluctantBikerNYC regarding the underwhelming engine power output and the random engine stalls it’s just things I experienced and how I went around improving/fixing them
Thanks for the video, but your incessant whining is out of line. You bought a 250cc, accept it for what it is. If you need more power and large engine performance, buy a bike with a larger engine.
Hi Paul. You make a good point, and I do appreciate your feedback. But what is life without a bit of whining in the face of reason? It wouldn't be as interesting :). Thanks, man, and wish you well.
hell.. he bought the lowest powered modern 250 single you can get, This is NOT a valid criticism of the bike..it was purposely designed that way ! only the mind of the unhappy rider deserves the criticism. T,hen didn't know how to maintain it properly... so his fuel injection and his brakes and his tires are not good ! Two of the lowest hp/weight vehicles in history are also two the most popular and widely produced vehicles ever: the honda cub and the VW beetle. Folks who bitch about them.. not worth bothering with. They want be someone else, doing something else. So they take to the stage !
John, I thought I replied to you yesterday, but apparently I didn't save it correctly. I just wanted to say that you made my day with your comment. That is exactly how I feel, and admittedly, it is a bit silly. Why 5 and why hate? I really don't know. I guess it's a thing with the way we humans react to certain numbers--such as 3, 7, and 13--and certain words. For us bikers, though, the word "hate" is just another way of saying "I'm not crazy about such and such." That's all.
Hi Don. Good question. When riding up a hill, I always put it in 2nd gear, and you roll on the throttle depending on the steepness of the hill. Unfortunately, with the TU, one usually keeps it on full throttle, but it will get the job done without complaining. So to answer your question, yes, you may have to constantly keep it on full throttle.
Here’s what happens when you have ABS brakes on a motorcycle. They stop working. The brakes quit working. I have had two motorcycles with ABS brakes. On gravel roads that slope downhill, you don’t have any brakes .. do you want to avoid a motorcycle that has ABS brakes if you have to drive on steep slippery gravel or sand or even possibly get caught in the snow which has happened to me a few times. I went to work on a cold morning, and it snowed, one time I drove home in about 6 inches of snow. If I had ABS brakes, I would have been unable to ride the bike home. I wish they would quit coming up with these fixes for problems that don’t exist. Such as traction control, stability control, ABS brakes. That stuff is for idiots. At least my moto guzzi has a button on the dashboard, that I can turn the ABS brakes off and just have regular breaks for those times when I’m on slippery surfaces like gravel downhill roads, dirt roads in the rain, snow. to give your rear brake more feeling at the pedal when you have a drum rear brake which is perfectly adequate, take the brake rod nut off, and remove the rod from the rear brake arm. Put a slight bend in that straight brake rod that goes from the pedal to the rear brake arm. bend the brakerod.. this was a set up tweak it was done by the Suzuki factory motocross mechanics when Roger DeCoster was riding for them, to give him more feel at the brake pedal and to prevent the rear wheel from locking up as the rear suspension compressed.Make the bend about 30°.. this will give you more feel at the pedal, it won’t be like stepping on a brick. You will actually feel that rod straightening out as you press down on the rear brake pedal. If you don’t trust your front brake to bite when you need it. Try changing your front brake pads to EBC brand brake pads. they have a higher coefficiency. don’t ever wish for dual front discs on such a light motorcycle. The liabilities outweigh the assets 4 to1. The only benefit having a door front disc brake set up has , is that the motorcycle will break in a straight line while you are upright, but if you are leaned over and breaking, the door front discs will pull the wheel straight and make the bike stand up in the turn. not only that, but a second disc and caliper and pads and hoses add to unsprung weight. when you add unsprung weight to a moving part of your suspension, it takes longer for your suspension to recover between bumps, and, you have to have heavier springs to control that weight in motion, and heavier fork oil to control the spring. these have your components result in a harsher ride. Then a second disc is an additional gyroscope. Have you ever held a gyroscope while it’s spinning? It does not like to change directions. When you have that additional gyroscope spinning on your front wheel, when you turn, that’s actually called rotating, the motorcycle does not want to rotate left to right or right to left as quickly as it would with a single disc. then there’s fly wheel effect. Remember the little cars you had when you were a kid that had a fly wheel in them and you would run the car on the ground in to get the fly wheel spinning, and then you put the car down and the car would takeoff. To spin that fly wheel takes energy, to get that fly wheel to slow down also takes energy. A second disc is also an additional fly wheel. when you have brake pad drag. Disc brakes drag. Don’t believe me? Get your front wheel in the air and give that we are a good healthy spin. I’ll bet it doesn’t even do one whole turn. Do that on a bicycle front wheel, it will spin for at least 30 seconds. The reason the wheel will not spin while you have a diss break, is the pads drag, a second disc is twice the drag. I forgot to mention about unsprung weight being the enemy of your bikes handling, your suspension, and your rotation, not to mention your acceleration. It is so critical, that Porsche uses titanium Lugnuts to save a few ounces. Most motorcycles would handle, accelerate, track over bumps, and rt8 left to right, or right to left much better if they only had one disc. A single disc makes Around 200 hp. Who needs 400 hp front brakes? They don’t put double disc brakes on each front wheel of your car that Weighs at least five times more than your motorcycle and maybe as much as 20 times more when you get into trucks. They only get one disc on each wheel. i used to road race motorcycles.. I thought I needed double discs on my race bike. It was slower on acceleration, it did not handle bumpy turns without drifting off line, it did not want to rotate in switchbacks, my bike was slower on acceleration, because fellow racers that I was just at the same speed with usually, we’re pulling away from me about 5 miles an hour all of a sudden, that is a very quick brisk walking pace. At the end of a 30 minute sprint race, I almost got lapped..my bike was about five seconds a lap slower with the additional front disc..
Hey Harry. I totally understand your point of view. I good set of brake pads will do the job quite well. But if I had the choice between ABS and standard non-ABS, I would choose ABS brakes in a heart beat. I have found them quite useful in my experience. You mentioned you have a Moto Guzzi; I too have one (V7 III). Got it about a couple of months ago. I have not tried yet, but I think I can turn it off as well, which probably I will do in certain road conditions. You are right: one does not need the ABS all the time. Which Guzzi do you have?
Thanks for the long post, lots of great information that I never heard before. I need to learn more about sprung and unsprung weight, and its effect on the bike. Question: I have a Virago 250; and I am thinking to put bigger tires on it the next time around, for looks and better handling. My thinking is that the wider tires will give better traction, and soak up bumps better. My main concern would be regarding issues of sprung and unsprung weight. What do you think?? Note, my stock tires are 3.00-18 (front) and 130/90-15 (rear); and I would like to change to 100/90-18 (front) and 140/90-15 (rear).
