Great tip! I use 33% due to the one unknown we can rarely control and that is where the hook is in the mouth of the fish. Don't want to pull the hook due to drag being too tight.
Good stuff! Another option is to remove the reel from the rod, attach line to a predetermined weight(dumbell, a US gallon of water is just over 8 pounds, imperial gallon 10 pounds)and with the reel pointing to the ground adjust the drag until it lifts the weight off the ground.
Very Cool....I like the fact that at 2 turns you know you are at or around the 10 lb. mark...... I don't mind going by feel, but it's nice to have a number in your head. Good video!
As a semi-new fisher this is the type of stuff I want to see, so a new sub from me hoss! I haven't fished since I was a kid, so this is really helpful.
Thanks/good info/I lost a nice size bass last spring due to a low drag setting that aloud him to retreat to heavy structure and snap my line, funny how that experience undermines fishing confidence.
For game fishing in New Zealand we used to set the drag at 33% so 24 kg line we used to set the drag at 8kg. But for spinfishing with 15lb braid and 20 lb fluorocarbon trace i set the drag at around 4lbs. The more expensive the reel you use the more accurate and gradual the drag setting. So a shimano stradic 3000 has maybe 8 turns of drag with each one being about 2lbs. Daiwa sol the same. Stellas and certates even more where cheaper reels may go from start to locked up in two turns.
ive just started fishing about 2 months ago with a dual rod set for £70 off ebay. i had a big fish (bigger than im used to, had my 2.5lb test curve 8ft stalking rod bent over) and the line snapped due to drag being too high. literally the issue with mine is the drag, two clicks is full on. so ive just spent a few quid on a new rod and shimano sahara 4000r hopefully that will perform better than my unbranded ebay shit lol
One other factor is that the drag increases as the spool diameter gets smaller when a fish makes a long run and takes line off the spool. The drag can increase 25% as line goes off and the diameter gets smaller. A big mistake when fighting a fish that is taking line is to dramatically increase the drag. Increasing the drag manually plus the smaller spool diameter from line loss will quickly increase the drag pressure and get to the breaking point of the line/ knot.
Funnily I also set my drags at 33%-ish of the line strength. (Cool to see other anglers do the same, guess we all love Max 😉) 33% fishy fight 33% spare for fishy tricks 33% my mistakes and obstacles 20lbs (10kg) line = 6.6lbs (3,3kg) drag 6.6lbs is ~50% max drag force of the reel (so a ~12lbs max drag force reel is fine here) Now I choose a rod which will bend about 90 degrees and then the drag starts to give line. My rod,reel,line and drag are set to how I enjoy fishing and how my gear does what it’s supposed to do which is work (bend rod and going drag look and sound awesome)
Put the rod in a holder, put the line through the eye guides and then pull as if you were the fish so the rod loads up from more of a distance. Then you get the true feel of the drag, pulling it straight from the reel has less drag. Just so you can get more accuracy.
Hey Steve: Good reasoning. Further FYI for your viewers on the subject of rod power vs action, any rod that is marked "Medium" is referring to the power not necessarily the action. Action is often not marked, unless it's F or XF.
Hi Steve! I’ve never left a reel with the drag tightened down. Since I was a kid I was always told this compresses drag washers and is detrimental to the reel. This may have been only in the old days when some drag washers were a compressible material like felt, or cork? But even on my newer reels with carbon fibre discs, I won’t store them compressed.
Good advice Stewart!!! Congrats!!! Answering your question: No matter the drag material. Keep it loose when storage. Discs may stick together helped by pressure and any debris. Regards. Fred.
Yes, do not store them that way. Only turn it on the way down to find the max and then back off to get to the drag setting you like. You could also use that trick to totally remove the drag tension when storing the rod. Then, when you need it, go all the way the other way and then back it down to the setting.
Fantastic video! I have a couple of other factors in addition to abrasion, rod action, and line and knot strength, that I'm working out solutions for. I'd like to hear your thoughts. I also use medium fast, 20 lb test, but with a bait caster. I fish around oyster beds, and also snook beat up my leaders, factoring abrasion was a great idea! Namely In addition to the things you mentioned I think of hook setting power vs. allowing the fish to run and tire itself out for easier netting. Also I need to be factoring fragility of the the species mouth. Also sometimes I'm in big open flats where there is no structure (the fish can run) other times I've got large red fish hooked next to submerged trees and I need more control. Sea trout have more fragile mouths , and Red fish are far more ruggedly built. Also, sometimes the fish hit 35 yds out, sometimes right as I'm literally lifting the lure out to re cast! I used to set the hook, and regulate the drag a bit with my thumb on the spool allowing to keep a slightly looser drag, then tighten the drag as needed.... but with modern baitcasters I accidentally hit the thumbar and free spool lol.. Thanks for reading my lengthy post! I fish inshore from a kayak. Sea Trout, Snook, Red fish and occasionally Flounder predominantly hit my Jigs.
Everything you mention should be factored into the equation. That is where science becomes influenced by situational judgment. Looks like you have a great handle on that and alter your settings for the species and location.
Hey, this was simple and logical. That's not as common as one would think. I fiddle with the drag permanently, and setting it back from full tight is such a helpful tip.
Great info , I’m old school I just pull it a lil and set it accordingly. Most time baitcasters can always apply some thumb if needed ......set the hook brother
honestly i feel like 25% is so loose. i always thought a good drag is like 35-60% line breaking str depending on the rod...i have a 9ft rod that is Medium power and that thing can flex pretty good. im glad you talked about rod power because most people just tell others to set drag around 25-35% of line str and another thing to factor in when setting drag is the line you are using. with mono i always tell people go 50% of the line str minimum because mono is really good at stretching and sometimes you will not get a good hook set when @ 25% drag. (depends on size of fish and sinker used, and dept/distance involved) mono has way more forgiveness when it comes to drag and rod power so finding that balance is key to landing big fishes. i do striped bass fishing mostly from shore so when they hit your bait they take off REALLY HARD sometimes which can break either your line or pole. a soft pole allows you to set the drag slightly higher because the pole can help absorb some of that initial shock with the fishing line. braid is not very forgiving so you either power the fish in or lose it due to ripping the hook off. but having a medium pole with braid and a 2-3ft mono Leader is good setup too if you really into braid. And before people start flaming me about too much drag i do use circle hooks and get pretty good hook sets 8/10 times.
This was all great information. But i saw a video where its best to use your pounds meter. With the line through the guides . Because the guides will add resistance
I hv a medium rod. I just set the drag at the point where it doesn’t pull at all, then I pull on the line and I set it where it just comes out in a medium tight way.
I use 4 lbs test line so 25% of that is obviously 1 pound or a 16 ounce bottle of water. I take the cap off, insert the line into the water a little and put the cap back on. I then hold the pole and bend it as if I’m catching a fish such as a trout…. Just as the bottle is coming off the floor and and I hear the clicking on the drag where it’s not clicking easily or not at all is precisely where I set it. That’s my story and I’m clicking to it 😊
would another way to calibrate be by taking your line coming off the tip of the rod and attaching it to a weight on the floor that is equivalent to whatever the 25% comes to then raise the tip of the rod lightly as if you are pulling the weight up but just enough to remove the slack on the line and put a bit of tension and keep adjusting the drag till the line starts getting pulled by the weight right?and once the drag is set right the weight should be able to pull the line when you try to lift it correct?
@@KayakhacksFishing ohh really? thats great to hear i like to see you do that , i was just thinking to myself that would be the way to do it but i have not seen anyone on yt do it like that,surely im not the first to have thought of it
your suggest is much better. The guides do increase the strain/ load on reel also the angle at which it is being pulled on makes a great deal of difference he's pulling straight off the reel without any input from the rod which he says correctly has a great influence. A gallon of water weighs approximately 8 lbs it would have at least the same dead weight of a 8 pound Bass or any other fish weighing the same. take a gallon plastic milk jug and put a gallon of water in it and try to lift it with the line through the guides and a tied with a good knot just like you are going to pick it up like you would a 8lb fish you are trying to get into the boat or on the back and you will see reason why the recommended 20 to 30 % suggested setting. How do you think the companies that make these lines, cables or ropes get the ratings they could and have been sued for Think people! They put a measured load on them till they break by lifting or pulling on them. So get you a milk jug or coke bottle and when you need to set your drag look in your wife's kitchen or on the web how much so many ounces of water weighs and put those ounces in a plastic coke bottle or milk jug tie to your rod and line like you are going to fish with it and lift. when it picks it up back off till it falls when it just lifts it you got it. its about as accurate as you can get and all you need is water a jug and your wife's measuring cup. When you do you will get the idea of why those fish get tired of dragging that kind of extra weight around and you will also realized that you don't need 15lb. line for pan fish I"m. 76 and wished I had knew this 40 years ago. I wouldn't have been out fished so badly by the guys who knew it . It has worked for me .Sorry this is so long but if you try it I believe you will like it. We sometimes make simple things very hard, at lest I do.
All good but you forgot one Element and that is your rod guides are going to add friction and help your drag so that’s were the 20 to 30% of your main line comes into play.
I believe now after losing fish with circle hooks while they take off like a rocket heading toward the pilings...im gonna set my drag a bit tighter while using J hooks...I cant afford to worry about drag tension "and" circle hook failures in a moment where pilings and structures are involved. I want to set that hook and keep the fish away from debris...I fish for trout pompano and sheepshead etc to fill my freezer box. If I was fishing for reds or Snook I would probably think more about it but I cant keep those anyway legally now so if I lose them oh well...I wanna keep the target dinner fish on my line . Circle hooks suck to begin with and a harder drag would make those worse to keep my fish out of the pilings.
I use granny knots. I catch medium size catfish and 10 lb 30 inch redfish that I have to fight for 10 minutes to land.. I've Never lost a fish because a granny knot came undone or caused the line to break. I'm 100% convinced, fishing knots are hype.
i have a mitchell 300 c new model spinning reel and it is rated for 10 to 14lb test mono and 20lb test braid and the max drag is 14lb so does this mean i should be able to dead lift up to 14 lbs of weight directly from the reel without any problems or can i most likely expect that either it will start slipping way before i reach 14lb or that the line roller or the bail arm holding the roller will break?
My understanding is the maximum drag setting is the most resistance the reel can provide without breaking. The reel should be designed to provide the 14lbs and then slip after that. The roller and bail should be made to handle the 14lbs of stress. In terms of lifting, that would be a good test to see if the drag rating matches the lift. Theoretically, it should.
@@KayakhacksFishing hmm ok so just as i figured this means that if it works as rated then it should only start slipping once it goes a bit over the 14lb of weight being dead lifted directly by the reel and the components of the reel should not break right,, but i dont think i would risk doing such a test based on there word ,i can not see my reel actually being pulled by me to lift that much weight without anything going wrong,,so idk lol
I have shimano speedmaster 11' Power pro:40 - 65lbs Power: medium heavy Action: moderate fast And a daiwa bg 5000 with 65lbs braid How much lbs do i set the drag?????? Pls help thanks
Problem with your theory: The guides will "add" drag resistance and therefore increase the apparent drag resistance. Better method is to have the scale firmly attached to something and have the line going through the guides to achieve an accurate setting.
When setting the drag, you should take that into account as well - but there is no way I know of to measure that. The key is the drag should be set well below the breaking strength of the line.
I'm going to tell you right away that if you set the drag to 10 pounds the way you have just described, run the line through the rod guides and retie it to the grips, then have a buddy hold the grips with the scale while you put a bend in the rod like you're fighting a fish; that scale is going to read at least 18 pounds IF your line or rod doesn't break first. The pressure of your line against the guides in the fish-fighting position adds an astronomical amount of resistance. The only way to properly set your drag is with a friend holding the scale while you're in the fish-fighting position.
Even catfishin no more than 8lb is needed really. Unless pulling flatheads from cover. Dead lift weights with the rod 5lbs is way more than you would realize
Bruh I just be pulling the line with my hand on 8-10 lb mono or braid… and if it’s decently tight and it doesn’t snap then my drag is good y’all doing too much lmao and for my big game stuff like my Baitrunner or my slammer I just pull till I can barely unspool it … I mean I’m usually running 30lb braid in saltwater minimum with a stronger leader on a double uni knot
Kayak Hack I like your video but I will issue you a challenge. Set your drag to 10 pounds like you just demonstrated,but this time, string your rod fully. Secure your gauge to a vice or whatever, attach your free line to the scale, hold the rod at approximately 45 degrees and pull. I guarantee that the drag will NOT break at 10 pounds. Repeat this experiment with rods of differing lengths and powers, and you will see that your method is good but not great! Most people get this wrong and it’s difficult to understand why considering manufacturers always include instructions on proper drag settings...
Fred set yours to ten pound attach it to a tree branch as though it caught up and try and yank it out of the tree your line will break every time cos of the shock. 25% and your safe.Try it with your 50% er and use an old rod. All the best.
Shouldn’t drag be set from the rod tip with bend. A more realistic setting ? Because the line will be through all your guides and a bend in the rod. So actually, you could be higher than 10 pounds ? 🤷🏻♂️
My perspective is the flex of the rod just adds additional safety. But, there is nothing wrong with following your approach. The key is to make sure your drag is set to a level to protect the line.
To me this is all hogwash. Forget breaking point of your line. You can catch a 100 lbs fish on 10 lb test. You cast, loosen the drag until you can just pull it out with a little ease and stop there. This should still allow you to be able to hook the fish and if he decided to run, let him run pulling out your spool. Now and then when his run slows down real some line back in. When the fish is close to you by say 10 feet tighten your drag a bit more so it will be easier to finish reeling it in. It's all about tiering the fish out so he doesn't fight against you. There is No correct setting because every fish will pull differently.. of course don't use line test so light it's easily snapped either. I use Spiderwire 17 lbs test mono and there isn't anything within reason I cannot catch with it.. including 3 foot alligators.
