The Ultimate Guide to Buying GRADABLE Cards from eBay in 2024 

Thank you for watching! Hope to keep providing good value with the videos I put out

Yeah I’ve seen that quite a bit. Some sellers probably just don’t inspect their cards very well and choose lower conditions to protect themselves from returns

Yeah, I think its a good strategy at times if sellers want to underpromise and over deliver. @@synergycards

I can tell you why. They think they are covering themselves and minimizing possible return requests down the line, which is not going to help them at all

​@@XYouVandalThis is exactly why

Thanks for the support! I really appreciate it!

Thank you for the support! I really appreciate it! Another psa reveal video coming either today or tomorrow!

@@synergycards Awesome! I can't wait!

Awesome! Good luck with your goals! I definitely think that’s attainable! Thanks for the support!

It’s a good process! Plenty of cards out there for everyone

Great questions! I consign with Probstein123. I made a video about that you can find on my channel. I prefer to sell all slabs (especially psa 10’s) by myself on eBay or fb/insta, but I will send some of them to Probstein if I have a bunch of duplicates or dead inventory that I need to liquidate. Hopefully that answers your questions!

No problem!

Thanks! Yeah that’s generally why I stick to newer cards. They tend to have sharp corners. And if there’s something in the pictures that suggests otherwise I’ll often message the seller and ask about it

There are plenty of cards out there to grade for the people who are willing to put in the work

That’s a great question. If you’re planning to get cards graded I would recommend buying ~20 cards in the ~$15 dollar range and get them graded at the cheapest level. This way you’re not putting your money into one or two big cards hoping they grade well. But definitely research and make sure the cards you buy will sell for much more as psa 10’s

Great question. I’ve started focusing more on higher value cards and this is still the approach I use. I personally prefer to stick to newer cards especially when they’re higher value

Great question. I usually try to sell them as BINs. I’ll send them to consignment if they’ve been sitting for awhile or if I am short on time. But regardless, I expect to take a 20-30 percent loss on those after shipping, fees, etc

They recently changed the zoom feature in eBay and this video was recorded before it was changed. I like the old way better unfortunately.. thank you for watching!

Great questions. I think to start out it’s a great idea to focus in on 1 sport and a couple players. If you want to focus on rookies/prospects, keep in mind that you’ll want to generally flip them right before their season starts. I’ve gotten burned on a lot of basketball rookies that I held onto for too long. I think PSA has a minimum of 20 cards per submission to get their lowest price, so I would recommend starting with an order about that size and slowly work your way up to getting ~20 cards per week to get graded. But don’t get too focused on quality that you end up buying cards that aren’t very profitable even as psa 10’s

If they don’t hit 10’s they are worth nothing pretty much… Barry sanders rookie PSA 10 is over 2 grand… my psa 8 is worth 50… to give you an idea

Great question. Everyone does it differently but personally I shoot for an average of $20 profit per card. That accounts for all the lower grade cards as well. I’ve found that to be pretty attainable

Yes, that’s my thought process behind it. I know there are exceptions, but I tend to avoid it to be safe

Great question. It is allowed according to eBay’s help section on their website. You can google it if you need more info.

Good question. I often send duplicates in but personally I do 4 or 5 max. If I had 10 of the same card I would probably split those between 2 orders.

Depends on the card. I gemmed 20/20 Topps Now cards last month. But they were freshly printed with borderless design so that helps a lot

All depends on the grader. I’ve gotten 10’s with minor print lines a lot. I’ve only gotten one 10 ever with a major print line. So I don’t submit cards with super noticeable print lines anymore

@@synergycardsfantastic, I appreciate the info. I’m a bit of a degen and am getting sucked into this. Bought a hobby box and pulled a Stroud Crusade but it has a noticeable print line down the middle. I’ll avoid the risk and just sell raw, thanks bud and please keep up the actual useful videos unlike all these other channels.

Thank you! I definitely have a lot more grading content coming soon!

Yes. It depends though. If you only see graded cards with really old serial numbers, or just a few graded cards, I don’t consider that as much of a red flag.

I can provide my point of view on this topic. I have been selling sports cards on eBay since 11/30/2023. I grade cards with PSA and screen every card before listing them. The near mint/mint disclosure on eBay is pretty much a PSA 8, so most modern raw cards fall into this category. Yes, some cards that have minor chipping or slight corner dings aren't going to be sent for grading, BUT I have sold some cards raw just because 1. I don't grade 99% of base cards anymore. 2. Timing-most inserts of new products sell for crazy money week 1, then it's a race to bottom 3. I can't grade everything I sell probably 60/40 graded to raw on eBay, and so far, so good. Got the top seller ratting, so I just be doing something right, lol. Great video and content. 👏

If there are major defects I will return them. But near mint technically means PSA 7. So if there are minor issues then I’ll just resell the card raw and lose a few dollars but that’s okay with me

@@synergycards yea that is true but grading is subjective so you can really argue that it would get a 7 even with just one scratch, almost every time ebay sides with the buyer too just due to their policy

Good question, I usually use 130point so I haven’t checked eBay sold listings in awhile. That would be nice if they’re showing those now

@synergycards yeah its kind of under the radar, but if you look at the price guide beta after you run a search, click some of the recent sales that say Buy it now and the original listings will show a different price crossed out. The best offer is the figure that was paid in the price guide

Nice, that’s good to know

Thank you for all the comments! My instagram is synergycardsinsta