I would suggest a Knipex Pliers Wrench instead of an adjustable wrench. They open wider than most adjustable wrenches and they don’t slip and round off nuts like adjustables. They’re not a replacement for a socket or box end wrench but they’re a much better option for nuts and bolts that you don’t want to destroy.
NOTES TO A NEW MACHINIST/MACHINE OPERATOR: This is a good list. I would also recommend a decent sized rubber mallet, a few varying sized plastic (to avoid damaging a part on 2nd op) and metal stocks of material (though these can be accumulated over time with left over bar stock) ranging from 1/4" - 1" diameter and a mag base with an adjustable arm for an indicator to help with indicating parts in on a lathe. Overall this is a good starter list. As you gain knowledge and experience, you will learn tips, tricks and what tools you need to adequately do your job everyday no matter what situations arise. Just keep an open mind and try to think about things from different perspectives. More often than not, there are solutions to problems that may not be easy to see at first.
And inspect your parts!! (Regarding CNC operation) No matter if you're running a large quantity order or a small, always check the dimensions of your parts regularly. Especially the tight/critical dimensions. It's very easy to miss something or not notice a dimension fall out of tolerance. Check concentricity, indicate parts and tools in.. One bad dimension, even if it's only a few tenths off can mean the difference between a good part and a scrap part! Check that tools are properly loaded and properly set up, one small mistake can ruin the way a tool is supposed to work and tools/materials are expensive! A good machinst will have a minimal scrap rate while maintaining safe operation combined with high productivity. Close tool watch can help to avoid bigger problems - TOOLS WEAR (keep an eye, visually, on how your tools are wearing, listen to how they are supposed to normally sound while they're in use and notice any abnormalities, check that they're getting sufficient coolant/airflow throughout the tool's use etc).. change out your roughing inserts regularly as they're the ones taking the main beating. Use the optional stops to check the part and tools if needed (they're usually there for a reason). Once you gain experience, you can even start making edits to improve the program overall.. often with new programs/parts, there are going to be mistakes that need to be corrected or altered. RPM adjustments, tool elimination etc etc. Learn to be able to fully read your program. A printout is always recommended; with that you can do a mental overview of how the program will play out and catch any potential mistakes. (I.E. Maybe the turret is set to index before backing out to home or a minimally safe distance and a crash is imminent unless the mistake is caught). Slow it down and always run your program with extra caution, until you have your first TWO good parts to ensure that everything is running smoothly. Then you can start to let it run at 100%.. Most importantly, never get complacent and always stay safe! You can't do your job if you're dead or get injured.. On a lathe, you need to be especially careful. No dangling clothing artifacts, keep your hair short or out of the way, keep most of your nails short (it's handy to keep 1 long for things like feeling burrs or finishes on parts etc)..always be mindful of the jaws that're spinning right in front of you, often at 3,000+ RPM! They'll grab onto anything they can, and trust me, THEY WON'T LET GO. Any experienced machinist can tell you about some of the horror stories they've seen. I could go on, but these are just some of the main tips that I'd give to anyone new to machining. Good luck!
Great great video. I started my Tool & Die/Toolmaker apprenticeship in 2020. Just my 2¢, I would add tweezers, (for splinters) telescope magnet, telescope mirror, small wire brush, feeler gauges, brass punches, small/large cheater pipe, a good pick, and utility knife. Everything ive said is $40-60 added to the list.
You already have the best tool to deal with splinters. It's your caliper. Who are these guys you are apprenticing under that didn't tell you this day one!
For the cost... might as well get a 12" Caliper to start...You're gonna be using it sooner than you think! Also maybe a 6" or 8" piece of a course saw blade with all the blade filed down except maybe the last inch. Great for pulling crap out of taped holes like chips from taping! Must have! That tool is free and takes 1 minute to make.
Depends on the job I guess. I loved using the 4" on the bridgeport for quick checks of thickness. Obviously if your part is larger than 6 or 8" than you need a larger caliper...so the collection begins. 'Once you get into a serious caliper collection, the tendency is to push it as far as you can'
Truth. I’m like two weeks in and after 3rd day, I got the hang of old Vertical Machine. Prep all my pieces ahead of time and now I usually have 30mins in between operations. One of old guy said to me” I been here 15yrs and never seen this back side of shop so clean 😂. My reply was, I got to keep a tight ship around my work space in order to function. Can’t be at comfort level like these old timers on their phone when you’re new. Got to stay on top of things and constantly learning during those down time.
I'd suggest a set of radius & thread pitch gages... appropriate for the work you're doing. Nothing worse than grabbing a tool with a too large or small radius tip. It's just as bad to get a tap with an incorrect thread pitch. An optivisor or equivalent magnifying device is invaluable. Last but not least, a good pair of tweezers will pay for themselves in no time at all.
Oh ya, good TWEEZERS!!! I always used those cheap ones until one day I borrowed my wifes. Just like with real tools, you get what you pay for, I now use the fancy revlon tweezers lol
Nice. Can you make a video about tooling needed for someone who bought a new quality milling machine which we usually convert to CNC? I have no idea what type of tooling I'll be needed for making all sorts of things.
Good video. I like the shop talk type videos. I'm a firm believer in only buying top quality measuring tools. Are you Canadian? I noticed the Mastercraft wrenches.
i dropped my phone inside the machine once doing some service repair on it. It was damn lucky it was under service because it meant there was no coolant
@@CamInstructor shock and water rated phone would be nice. if i ever fucked up my phone while doindg work stuff id just go and get a new one and bring the bill upstairs. if i cant get proper tools and have to use my own and they are broken then i see the company compensates me new.
Caminstructor . By all means I was just giving my two cents worth. The most important things is for new girls and guys starting in the trade is always listen and be open minded .
Very few shops will require you to have a 0 to 1 micrometer (0:50). Given that 95% of the world's population uses Metric, the majority will want you to have a 0 to 25 (mm) Same for most of the other tools.
Haha, it should go without saying that if you work in a metric shop you would buy metric measuring tools! Any good machinist will be able to use either and convert when needed.
@@CamInstructor Except the tools have to match the measuring equipment. Metric drills match the micrometer (decimal); imperial do not. A mix of fractional, letter and number… few of which match the imperial micrometer scale, which is decimal. One of the reasons 95% use metric. Given that the US went officially metric in the mid seventies, why would you use such a clumsy system?
