Here is a link for the stainless barbed fittings I used in the video and a littany of other great plumbing parts from Merrill. www.merrillmfg.com/collections/stainless-steel-insert-fittiings
I’m in the middle of replacing a 30 year-old Simmons hydrant with a Woodford Y34 (based on your recommendation). Can’t get a plumber out here 30 miles from Cody, so I had to dig it out by hand (6 foot bury). Next time, I’ll rent a backhoe. I’m an old hippie and I’m just too friggin old.
Wow! Let’s hope there isn’t a next time, but if there is…backhoe for sure! Thanks for reaching out. I sure am glad to see little inklings of spring. That was a rough winter…almost burned through our whole pile of wood. 😬
Job well done, best execution of mechanical coupling install I have seen yet.... Short of actually fusing the P.E. pipe with the proper fittings, this looks like the way to go.
Thank you Sierratradesman8132! I have never even heard of the fusion method. How does that work? Are there special fittings for that? I will definitely will look into it. Thanks again!
What I do is get paper towel that would be the width of the barb say 2 inches max, fold multiple layers of paper towel to become well padded; I make use of used tea bags inside the folded paper towel. Soak it in very hot water for a few minutes until the entire paper towel pad is soaked and hot. At the site of the poly pipe where you are trying to connect the fittings wrap the hot paper towel pad around for about 3 or 4 minutes. The pipe becomes very malleable and uniform heat is spread evenly around the circumference. Makes it very easy to push the barbed fittings through without a gas torch that can ruin with uneven heat.
i've raised ponies 40 odd years have installed several of these and rebuilt a couple. The right angle fitting going into the hydrant looks like galvanized. i know you said the hose barb was stainless. I have had the galvanized fail after years underground, and so I just finally starting using plastic for everything. there's not too much stress when you secure the hydrant to an upright like you did. Just sayin. otherwise fun watching someone else work haha
Thanks Lonnie. The street 90 going into the hydrant is stainless but it does look a bit different from the others. Stainless works the best with our soil and water type out here. Haven’t been able to bring myself to go with plastic, but it sounds like it holds up pretty good! Thanks for reaching out! I pinned a link to all the stainless fittings at the top of the comments. You may have to navigate around the Merrill site a bit to find the street 90s. Thanks again!
Thanks for your video, as I am running the same type of water line and was looking at different options. I was trying to find the barb pipe connection and the double banded clamps. Did you buy these locally or online. I would appreciate a link to them if you have it available. Thanks in advance,
Hey Frederick, I bought them at Grover’s plumbing supply in Klamath Falls, OR. If I can find something online I will shoot you a message. Thanks for reaching out.
I am thinking of replacing my 300' water line from the meter and come across your video. I saw other video using pack joint fittings with stiffener, I guess either that or your fitting would withstand the PSI from the city water.
"Shockey-tow"?!?! What did he say? LoL. Like the video. I'm installing a few hydrant around my small property this coming weekend. Three to be exact. At my daughter's house, the step-dad left a 6-ft. hose attached overnight at the end of February. Yea...that sucker split like the Titanic. I got an ice shower when I went to wwter the animals. Uggggg! LoL. We were able to replace the cast iron body on top and didn't need to dig anything up. THAT was nice.
Oooh nice! I tried to find a head for one of the hydrants that split on me awhile back, but it was long discontinued. I like not having to dig stuff back up! Love the comment! Thanks!
Very useful, thank you! What is the name of the 1" stainless Straight fitting by the shot off valve 7:05 & T-fitting 7:15 ? Why you used with threads instead of only barbed? Why did you offset the hydrant instead of putting in line the pipe go? What do you think about Monitor Magnum Frost-Proof Hydrant by Baker?
The fittings are 1” male threaded on one side to barbed on the other since the shutoff had a female thread and so did the stainless tee. Sometimes you can find a barbed tee. Which would save some money and fittings. I just went that route since that was what they had available at the plumbing shop. Thanks!
@@BidwellCanyonFarm Thanks for replying! There are 2 more questions in my list. 🙂 1) Why did you offset the hydrant instead of putting in line the pipe go? 2) What do you think about Monitor Magnum Frost-Proof Hydrant by Baker?
I offset the hydrant because it fit best with our trenching layout. It also puts a lot less pressure on the mainline and gives more flex when opening and closing each hydrant to have them on their own leg. I have never seen or used the hydrant by Baker. It definitely has a strong name! I will try to look it up when I get a chance and let you know what I think.
@@BidwellCanyonFarm Thank you so much! You are awesome! I wonder if I can connect with you via call. I also have a small ranch. Relatively new to this. Replacing 2 hydrants. Have a leak, because our pump recharge every 2 minutes. I tuned off pump, only put on when needed to use water.
Thanks! The clamps were purchased at a place in Klamath falls, Oregon called Grovers. They were sleeved stainless steel pipe clamps for 1” poly pipe. I can’t seem to find the same ones online anywhere though…good luck!
You know, i never tried it. I wouldn’t be surprised if it made things a heck of a lot easier, but I do think it’s going to be more difficult taking it back off once those ribs make indents on the inside of the poly. Worth a try for sure!
When you bury this poly pipe do you just throw the dirt back over and compact it or do you use a layer of sand or anything? Just curious I have to bury some poly pipe soon
I like to shade the trench with at least 2-4” of sand below the poly and 2-4” above. Then i can backfill with the tractor with no worry of damaging the line. We have really rocky soil though. If your soil is soft the shading may not be necessary. Hope this helps! Have a great day and thanks for the question!
I was confused why you needed a hydrant in Bidwell Canyon which is near Oroville. Then I see you are near Fort Bidwell which is a totally different place.
Hi Devin, the black tape i used around the hydrant is called Harvey’s 10 mil pipe wrap. The blue teflon on the barbed fitting is called “Blue Monster” It costs a bit more, but it is way more substantial than the typical Teflon tape and seems to do a really good job. Hope this helps!
Got to check out the Ford compression fittings first hand. I am installing a water line from a 6" PVC main that we had to hot tap...Cool experience! Thanks for the shout!
Shading the trench with 2-4” of sand over the pipe helps keep the pipe right where you want it. In the off chance you had a faulty stretch of pipe it would be easy to see a leak as the sand would almost instantly show up as a darker, wet spot. A pressure test before backfilling can also be done to ensure no leaks are present.
Hi Craig, I tried using a heat gun running off a generator and that did not work. In my experience, it took the high heat of a torch to make it pliable.
@@BidwellCanyonFarm that's what the video showed, but the average water heater will go cold pretty quickly. Not finding a temperature spec, but figure somewhere 140..200F? Haven't done it yet. Thinking: 1. For just the ends, dip them in a pot of boiling water. 2. Fill the pipe then trickle hot water though to keep warm? 3. Circulation through a pot on a gas or propane stove. Pump has to take the heat. 4. Knock together a frame and line with a tarp (that will take the heat) 5. Welding gloves for handling the hot pipe 6. Knock together a box, and run hot air in. Maybe a sheet of insulation under and on top.
You’re making it seem way harder than it is… get the torch out and heat it for maybe 5 -10 seconds and stick it in. If it want go then use a little more heat or tap the fitting with something to get it in all the way. And if you forget the clamps you don’t have to cut the pipe. Just take the clamps apart and put them on that way.
Thanks for the advice Steven! I was a little nervous after I heated one too quick and it got all gooey and was ruined. Yes the clamps can be taken apart. Good point. Have a great spring!
Yeah. At first I was pumped on the Merril hydrant because it comes with a 1” female inlet at the bottom which is nice when you are working with 1” fittings etc. You get more volume right up until the hose.
Read your print line and understand (research) the difference between IPS -iron pipe size- and CTS -copper tube size- in addition to the DR -wall thickness-. All make a difference as to what mechanical fittings or fusion fittings you use.
Hey Vance, I found the barbed fittings for you. They are Merrill XL Stainless fittings located here... www.merrillmfg.com/collections/stainless-steel-insert-fittiings The XL are typically used for drop pipes to well pumps and are maybe a little overkill for water line applications, but, I like to overkill things. It is a great site, I just ordered a gaggle more parts and was super pleased with the checkout experience! BEST!
For mechanical couplers on thinner DR such as dr19 or dr32, this is a good trick. For thick wall -250 psi, DR9, better use some heat. Or do it right and fuse the pipe vs. mechanical couplers.
I got them in Klamath falls at a place called Grover’s but i have had trouble finding them online. Heavy duty sleeved hose clamp offers mixed results online but not the exact ones.
Oooh nice tip. I have a cheapy heat gun that I was using in a snow storm, I think anything would have done better. When i switched to the torch all my worries went away. I didn’t even know they made a good industrial heat gun.😂
As a plumber of 20 years please people never put a pipe or bucket around the base of your hydrant. It only makes for a harder time digging it up later.
Interesting, I have never had any more of an issue digging up one with a bucket or one without. Digging is digging, it always sux! In my experience, having the base surrounded by a bucket w/gravel only keeps the base of the hydrant cleaner and easier to expose once you dig around the bucket. What have you run into that causes problems? Thank you for the comment!
@@BidwellCanyonFarm i dont know bud maybe your ground is just easier to hand dig then here in ky. But around here you want to dig as small a hole as you possibly can. It may also be that if you only have to dig one up every few years or so you may not even notice. But it really just may be a difference in location because I see you are useing IPS pipe with barbed fittings ( that I hope are stainless and not galvanized) and hose clamps. We haven’t used that stuff in new installations in this area since the 70s. But anyways, to each their own.
I personally think this is a bit over the top for the project. If you overheat poly (polypropylene) you will get pinpricks in the pipe. This resin has a melting point of 320 degrees. Most polypro is dried from 2-4hrs at 200 degrees before ejection, or not even dried at all due to its low melting point. This is especially typical when you heat the pipe in a cold weather environment. It will hold, but the pinpricks or craters you cannot see will expand with pressure from the water and the temperature variance throughout the seasons. The fitting is overkill as well. A simple standard PVC fitting will work just fine under many pressure exposures. How you fasten it will determine how it will perform and it's longevity. There is absolutely no need for this elaborate rig. Also make note that the trench appears to be hand dug. Assuming he does not enjoy digging by hand I would have borrowed or rented a trenching machine of some form. Even 1 1/4" poly pipe can sit 6" in a residential setting that experiences all for seasons safely. 4ft if ideal but not necessary at all.
Wow! Lots of info going on here. Thanks for the comment! Not sure where you get the hand dug part, but if I was hand digging this, I would still be down there digging and there would not yet be a video about it. I assure you the trench was dug with a backhoe. What do you mean by 1 1/4” poly in 6”? Are you saying it can be set at 6” deep in all four seasons? I disagree with you there, if that is what you are trying to say. It is important to check your local codes to determine how deep your plumbing should be set. The poly might be able to handle freezing temperatures at 6” deep, but I am certain the fittings could not, especially if using the plastic fittings you are recommending. I will stick with over the top. Thanks!
Bro fords fittings would have saved you so much time and end result is way better, if is a barb fitting you will be digging it out few years later, at least what the salesman from hd fowler said
Once upon a time I watched a ford fitting blow apart a couple days after a supposed pro installed it. Never had an issue with a barbed fitting. Maybe the guy didn’t get it installed right. Sounds like a good salesman!
Stop writing 'poly'! It makes no sense. Look through IPC approved materials and tell me how many times you see 'poly'. I'm assuming you mean polybutylene
