Heyo everybody! Hope you enjoyed this look at Burden Of Dreams on a vertical wall 🙂Make sure to subscribe to the Lattice channel to see me suffer later!
I'm quite interested to see how you did on the lattice test! This video really put BOD into perspective. There's just an entire world past my climbing.
Small fingers make small holds feel relatively better because a larger percentage of your finger pad is on them, but if larger fingers can access their full surface area (ie on a larger hold) then there will be more total friction, so wide fingers if you can fit all 4 will have better friction - it just won't feel as solid compared to even deeper holds
@@spokanespray I dont think that's correct. Friction does not depend on surface area, just normal force and the coefficient of friction. A larger surface area will distribute the force over a larger area, decreasing the pressure on the fingers. This is in an ideal situation with two rigid bodies, and may not be 100% accurate in practice with fingers which deform when a force is applied. But I think the lower pressure would be perceived as easier.
It would be cool to put burden on an adjustable wall from like -10 to 45 degrees and get a consensus grade for every single angle. Then you could sort of "define" each grade on the V scale from 0 to 17 by how hard a specific angle of Burden of Dreams is. Obviously grades are way too subjective to actually try and use something like that as a definition but it would at least be interesting to see, especially the graph of V grade vs angle to see what sort of shape the V scale takes. Or maybe people have already done this with existing climbs on the moonboard/kilterboard, if so please drop a link to the results.
They do this on the kilterboard but a lot of people don’t grade correctly according the angles. Yokoyama sofya has a nice example video where she does a kilterboard problem on every angle.
really interesting concept, overhangs are my nemesis... but be a bit more fair - if you're a strong climber and panting after a 3-move route then it's not a v2 🤣🤣
This was fucking insane to watch. It really puts into perspective just how strong all the climbers who have done/almost done burden are. Like the fact that they can’t even hold onto the holds from a static position is mind boggling, and they themselves are incredibly strong. This is just fucking ridiculous
@@Gadgetmawombo I think when you're at their level a V2 can just feel similar to a V4, in the same way I don't feel a difference between a VB and a V1. it's like that with lower grades as you progress.
It‘s crazy how much strength a v17 recquiers. And I have to say that I was blown away by Pete‘s performance on this boulder in his last video. Anyway great work on that one. Setting the vertical version of Burden with those small footholds was really making the difference. I would love to play around with those 3d printed replica holds as well.
Genuinely think Pete needs to actually put in a few sessions and see what happens. He made basically as much progress in his first session as other mega wads. Plus he's out in Norway or in Sheffield quite a bit it seems. Although if he did it, he wouldn't be able to remain a dark horse crusher- which is maybe his whole modus. The internet would then demand he go and proj Silence...
Crazy how good that v12 climber on josh's channel did, just shows how style - dependant grades are. Like obviously he couldnt do it either, but seemed way more comfortable in the positions
@@EmilAbrahamsson I am that climber and I’m amazed too frankly. Full disclosure, I’ve never actually tried anything harder than V12. I never boulder, only routes. But I did try Emil’s off the wagon replica on the kilterboard and was utterly useless… Seems I’m ok at one thing. Big moves off small holds 😂 Cool vid Emil. Loved the concept!
this was so rad! bosi's entire method of training for this boulder was so interesting and it seems like one of the only cases where you might be able to apply this type of technology for training. just goes to show how much training for hard climbing had changed in the last decade alone, and how much the boundaries can be pushed in the future. (p.s.-- i'd kill to hop on the "burdenless dream" on slab, seems so cool!)
I absolutely hate bad footholds, but i take them all day over boulder problems with little to no footholds at all so i guess the vertical one doesn't look THAT bad even for a newbie like me. Nice video :)
Super cool to see this collab, Emil! Love it whenever climbing RU-vidrs get together! And I definitely think the vertical one with bad feet looks more interesting.
Loved putting this on a vert wall, what a cool idea. I wish you tried it with exact Burden beta the way Will did it - especially placing the right foot way out right before moving up to the second to last “jug”. Amazing stuff either way!!!
I was hoping to see something like they play with angles and see how much of an angle they can do. I would really like to see them try it at a 10 or 20 degree angle
Fascinating how footholds make such a difference! @Emil so if this was put on an adjustable and you trained all the degrees from 0 - 60, do you think burden is possible in 1 year? (for you personally that is).
Truthfully I would give myself an incredibly low chance at becoming strong enough for Burden, even in several years. The style is what I'd call my anti-style, so I don't think my body could adapt in just a years time for such a hard, specific problem. I'd be very psyched though, would love to try it on various angles and see how much I could progress. I think I could do it at 30 in not too long, but once it gets to around 40 I just wouldn't know how to move anymore :P
@@CorneKooyman I think the style is less important. More important is the fact that Emil has done 1 V15. The gap between V15 and V17 is ENORMOUS, and much larger than is possible to bridge in one year.
Emil! I’d love a follow up video on your thoughts about the lattice training test! You are so good about being transparent about what progress really looks like, how up and down it can be, and how real the mental battle can be! Would love to hear your thoughts, what you’ll work on, what you’re psyched about bc of it!
Agree with everyone else, having this on an adjustable wall would super fun. Would be crazy to try 5° increments and see just how much it changes. I guess I could try this with an adjustable Moonboard and a random problem too
I've been climbing for almost twenty years. Still not my main sport, but something I do weekly. I'm a fairly solid F7 climber. I went to check out Burden when I was out and about around there. I could not even hang from any hold on that rock. It's so brutal, videos don't do it justice.
Good video but that really does not look like a V2. Shows how difficult it is for high grade climbers to grade low grades. They have really good finger strength and strength to weight ratio and were trying the overhanging version shortly before. Still looked like they were putting in good effort to do it. I think they have limited idea what it’s like for lower grade climbers to climb that.
I think lower grades have an absolutely massive discrepancy (as do higher grades). We were both comparing this to Fontainebleau which serves a large amount of vertical climbs, and there I'd say V2 is probably quite spot on. However, close to Sweden there's an island called Åland with pretty generous vertical grades, and there it'd be more like V4 I believe. It always depends on what you're comparing to I think. That being said, you might be right anyway, hard for me to say :P
@@nielswalinga5804difficulty ratings arent existing to flex. They should give people on different skill levels an idea if they can attempt it. If you just be like "nah thats so easy man because I climb 10 years, everythings V0 now" you make grades completely pointless.
Sick, super fun setup. :D Little heads up that the foot for the first move is not the one straight underneath but all the way left. And if I remember correctly on move 4 a drop knee is not useable on the real thing
the harder version of the easy version looked amazing. Definitely retained the "feel" of the real thing a lot better. Very fascinating. Question: do you think training a replica on a lightly less steep angle, but with worse feet could be an effective way to train for the real boulder. So maybe not as extreme as this putting it on a vertical wall. But just decreasing the angle 15 degrees, switch out the feet for slightly worse ones. That way you retain the body tension feel of the boulder and can just work up to the full angle as your body learns the moves.
Watching someone insane I respect and admire as much as Emil try the replica and struggle with it really put into perspective just how fucking crazy this boulder is and how insane Will and Aiden's first attempts were
So far the idea to put them on an adjustable board remains, and also don't worry Stefano is back in Finland trying it right now, and I wouldn't be surprised to see Will try to send the replica also. So much left to do still...
Emil falling off the replica really shows how hard the moves are but also how strong some of the other climbers are far even doing 1 of the moves 🙌🏼🙌🏼🙌🏼respect for everyone
Interesting how much of a difference the gradient makes, At my local gym the moonboard is at 45 degrees rather than the normal 40 but have no idea how much of a difference this actually makes
Not only climbing angle changed, the holds angle is also changed. Maybe 3D print 40deg spacers and put between wall and the holds. That would only change climbing angle, but the difficulty of the holds should remain the same.
It needs to go on an adjustable wall and then train on it 3 times a week adding 1 degree angle a week for 40 weeks, surely this would be the ultimate Burden cheat sheet?
It's the same thought I had when I visited the original. The handholds are actually pretty okay. It's just the extreme angle that makes it almost impossible.
You think it would be a good exercise to gradually increase the gradient by 5 degrees and increase when you feel comfortable with the current gradient and eventually work towards that 45 degrees?
We have the same replica at my gym in gothenburg and you don't get a good feel for how hard it is and how strong they are. we have it on a 20 degrees wall and it's like the wall is telling you NO go home, the real on is 40 degrees! OMG
To me, it looks harder than v2. V3 or v4 maybe. Tbe big moves with the crimps make it seem harder, but id have to climb it in order to say exactly how difficult i think it is. Really cool video!! 😀😀😀
I like the harder vertical replica, it looks like something I could try and have a feeling similar to the original boulder (of course, rescaled to my climbing level...)
Heyyy I know you’re supper strong and everything but I can’t climb 7C+ yet 😩 Haha but I’d love to try the Burden at home on the kilter board! Could you make one for us mortals? Maybe v5/v7 range? 🙏🏽 awesome vid btw 🔥🔥🔥
I'm expecting within six months gyms will be able to buy copies of the burden holds, and we'll see variations popping up in gyms everywhere. Burden of slab, burden rotated thirty degrees to the right.
Started climbing for the first time yesterday and I remember seeing a burden of dreams replica on one of the walls and laughed My friend who came with me asked if we should try it and I said "that's the hardest boulder in the world pal" and he just walked off lmao
Seeing Emil get pummeled like this on a boulder feels just wrong. Like there should be no boulder that someone this strong gets this destroyed on. The potential of this sport is truly endless
I have a home moonboard set closer to 45 degrees to fit in my garage, some problems feel absolutely desperate for the grade. I wonder how much the difficulty would change at each angle, would the difference between 35 and 40 be much bigger than the difference between 15 and 20. What about if it was angled in on a slab.
@CeNoTiX Gaming, I got the 2016 set because it was the cheapest, and I can buy more holds to change it in the future. For the holds, bolts, and T-nuts from Moon, it was £908 plus £67.5 shipping to Ontario, Canada. The framing used seven 2"x6"x12' boards, some 2x4s for blocking and the kicker, then 3/4" sheets of ply, and a coat of paint. I already had the plywood, screws, and paint. I also got double the number of T-nuts and skipped the lighting system. In total, I spent approximately $2000 Canadian after tax. A gym membership is $850 a year here, and I am only starting to go again now. So it's mostly paid for itself in saved gym memberships. But I have noticed my climbing is very weak in the gym style now. I used to be V7 in the gym and V5 on the Moonboard, now I can do some V7s on the Moonboard and V5s in the gym 😅. I also didn't get the board until Summer 2022, so I didn't get to climb for 2.5 years...
V7 on the MB is nails 💪💪 mine is 45 due to height restrictions was thinking of swoping holds for the grasshopper set for a better range esp in easier grades. No GH boards in the Uk to test though 😢
Hard to grade from a video, but from a beginner/intermediate the first looks more like a v3 than a v2 and the second v6. But that's just an impression.
I'd take a whole series of you walking up and trying the v16s and v17s and just repeatedly saying "that's so hard" and telling us how shit the holds are!. What a great watch!
Great video! Do you know if Lattice has the plan to take it down? Would be very cool to try it when I come over to their HQ! Of course the vertical hard version ;)
The company that printed the holds should re-use their scans and sell the set online, this video shows how versatile the holds are. I think a lot of climbing gyms could make use of them, not just as a training tool for the top 0.0001% of climbers, but just as interesting holds to create a variety of problems with, and set replicas on varying grades.
I climbed several years in Montserrat. 7as max grade and the only difference in many of its slabby lines, its the inclination because many are very similar. Just some degrees can turn a 5a into 7a, easily. So nothing new. Inclined walls are the separation from ok climbers to serious climbers
It would be interesting, if you guys could drop it incrementally 5 degrees at a time all the way to 40. I wonder what it feels like at 20 or even 10 degrees.
I was at Burden of Dreams last Saturday and was surprised how good the holds are! I said it would be 6B/V4 on a vertical wall. I wasn’t that far off. Just the angle is crazy and makes it so hard.