I’m a plumber but it’s been two and half years that I haven’t been able to do any work due to being paralyzed from the waist down. Watching this video makes me miss it even more. I’m ready to get healed and get back out there!
Double J, I'm just a random dude on the internet, but your comment makes me want to wish you the best. I hope you heal up quickly and get back to doing things that you're not able to do right now. Always throw positive energy out into the universe and it will answer in kind. Best of luck to you!
@@postingid3214 thank you very much for your kind and uplifting words! I really appreciate it! It’s been a rough time so far and I don’t know how much longer it will be or if I’ll ever get back to normal. I’m keeping my spirits up though and hoping/working to get back to walking. Thanks again and wish the best of luck to you as well my friend!
While I have always included deburring , one great incentive for everyone to follow a rule, is understanding why it is necessary, nice illustration Got2Learn
When I started my plumbing training 61 years ago, one of the first things we learned was iron pipe work. There are what's known as the 5 steps for iron pipe. Measure, mark, cut, ream ( DEBUR ) , thread. 55 year retired plumber
@@kceros I started as an electrician at 18, im 31 now and so I've been working for 13 years and I still have a long time to put in... so I dont get what you're saying.
Great comment. Same thing happened to me. It was magically suggested on the side panel. The producer of this video did an outstanding job explaining things. I'm 53-years-old and have done some DIY plumbing. This video answered some questions that I've had and some that I haven't even thought of. Again, great job to Got2Learn!! Thank you.
I worked for a plumber friend for a day doing some copper piping. He saw me deburing the inside of copper pipe and said he had never heard of that before. Glad to know I was right in the first place, thanks.
Just a homeowner, but re did a lot of plumbing on my 3 houses. I use the cone type inner/ outer deburrer. Plumbing is not something I care to re visit. Doesn't take much longer at all to do it right.
I'm not a plumber, but I do love how you explained this scientifically and used a turbulence model to explain why it's important to deburr pipes. I learned a lot in this video, so thanks!
If you flip a pencil reamer 180, you can use it on the outside of pipe. Held correctly, the little bump on the tip of the blade actually rides on the end of the pipe and allows you to ream the outside equally well as the inside.
What do you mean flip it 180º? This sounds like a great tip, but I'm haing trouble following you. Do you mean reverse the direction of travel? I tend to use mine clockwise around the bore, are you suggesting to use it anti-clockwise on the outside?
@@bennyd8471 I've tried, but not persevered. Not currently in possession of one else I'd try again. @Cody Moncrief Have you tried this with success, personally?
@@kinzieconrad105 But when you're a professional, learning the quickest and easiest ways mean you get the job done faster and the customers are happier. And you always have the correct tools to hand if you're organised. For DIY, a knife is fine and does a good job.
Yep, that’s the main downside to copper pipes. Even a little piece of sand that gets stuck somewhere will cause pitting that leads to the pin holes. That’s also why it’s not a good idea to use copper pipes for any kind of drain piping. As long as there’s constant flow, copper pipes can last as long as any house.
I'm not a plumber by trade but I do alot of plumbing from time to time, when I was taught how to sweat copper, the old guy said you never ever sweat pipe without deburring! Pride and craftsmanship is a rare thing these days
@Deon Denis totally agree, whenever I walk into a newly remodeled restaurant or a new one, the tiles are always crooked and uneven, I've yet to see caulking done properly, trim work is horrible, it's just sad that things are like that now
When I first got into the trades over 20yrs ago, i knew this old drunk plumber, he deburred every pipe. That guy was drunk when by the time he got to work and sipped on beer all day at work, but he was a great plumber
@@buzzsaw301 yea that's how alot of them old timers were back in the day, I've worked with quite a few, drank through out the day but took work very serious as hard to believe as that is, they took pride in what they did, also they could get away with drinking because things were different back then, you didn't have to tie off and wear a hard hat just to fart like you do today
42+ year plumber here and I couldn’t agree more. Great explanation. I just repaired a pinhole in a 3/4”copper pipe (type L) in a wall behind a water heater last week because of this.
Thank you, for adding the plastic pipe section. Another thing that, some, people don't realize is that plastic pipe needs to be cleaned before you glue it. It's just my preference, but I like to use cleaner, rather than primer, because it's easier to see that the pipe has been thoroughly cleaned. I have had people tell me that new plastic doesn't need cleaning and I've, also, seen their fittings leak.
Silicone seal, applied in same manner (both pipe and socket) as cement, works well for decently supported non pressure pipe. Still need to rough up both surfaces but joint is quite strong.
@@xenuno I’ve used silicone on TEMPORARY drain lines. Works fine and easier to strip and re-use. The silicone really doesn’t bond to the plastic, acts more as a gasket. Would never consider using on a pressure line or for a permanent install.
Nice animations and close ups! As a machinist, we deburr almost everything out of habit for our own safety so we don't cut ourselves while handling parts between setups (and also so a bur doesn't skew the work in a setup). All round best practice, thanks for sharing :)
You are absolutely correct, deburring is necessary for any project with a long lifespan. In a pinch, and for short term projects, a pocket knife can suffice.
Loved seeing the water turbulence graphics and the clear plastic pipe connections. Especially the example showing the glue being pushed up to the front.
Yes learned the hard way didn't debur and one of the burrs after soldering and the shut off valves had a plastic ball (home depot shut off vs actual plumbing shop valve with a steel ball) put a hole in the ball water damaged a brand new rehab, in the middle of the winter valve failed due to my mistake and it cost me, alot.Good info.👍
I know for a fact that im the only Technician where i work that reams my copper tubing before installation which is crazy! Same goes for using an inspection mirror. Also having 2 containers of flux, one to solder and one to clean after soldering as you should never use one for both because it melts the brush and makes the flux dirty which causes leaks. These 3 reasons are why i have less than 10 callbacks a year and havent had a callback for a leaky solder joint in 5 years!
In home appliance repair we tend to deburr with sandpaper when working on sealed systems. Sandpaper tends to take most of the particles with it, which helps keeps them from getting in and clogging the capillary tube.
I have done many service calls of pinholes near a fitting. After running black iron for hydronics and fire protection I always deburred. It was easy on the 300 and it just became a good habit.
Great information. I'm no plumber, but I decided to take on the task of replacing poorly placed pipes leading up into my kitchen sink from the basement below, and running hot and cold water pipes about 10 feet over to a sink that had been installed in the basement by previous owners, who had never gotten around to actually doing it. I decided to use a copper-to-PVC adapter, and to do the new plumbing in PVC. I bought a DIY manual and asked advice. I was told that, should I eventually sell the house, the home inspectors would specifically look for purple PVC primer on all the joints, and may fail it if it wasn't there, despite the fact that modern PVC cement actually precluded the need for the purple primer. So I made sure to slop on the purple stuff before cementing everything together, so that it would be VERY easy to see, just in case! I lived there for 6 more years, and never had any leaks or problems with my first-ever plumbing job...
@@Got2Learn Thanks. That was the quickest response I've ever gotten to a post! There were a few copper pipe joints I had to solder before adapting them to PVC the rest of the way, and I remember being impressed by what I guess would be referred to as the "capillary action" of how the solder was automatically "sucked" into and throughout the joint, requiring almost no effort from me...
Thank You, Thank You, Thank You., I am a machinist so I deal with deburring parts every day. I also have to deal with hydraulic systems, mostly the repair of them after somebody with no clue has already messed things up. Plumbing for water is no different. Free flow is very important for the reasons you show in your video. Whenever I plumb something I make sure there will be nothing to negatively affect the flow. Burrs and excess solder cause all sorts of problems and conscientious plumbers will not leave burrs on pipe cuts, will not use too much solder, and will clean joints of flux after soldering. Eric
This video needs to be sent to a bunch of the RU-vid video plumbers that never deburr their copper cuts. And you know who you are plumbers and now your customers will be watching!
Awesome video, it really demonstrates how important it is. I imagine that for a push connect fitting for water filter or sharkbite this is absolutely imperative, no matter if copper or plastic.
Excellent presentation. Not a plumber but found out the whys of reaming all pipe. I use Shark Bite fittings whenever possible and now understand why it's critical to debur. Thanks
Been plumbing for 30 years, been in business 15 years. Sweated literally tens of thousands of joints, have never “deburred” copper tubing. Never had a problem.
Thank you for another excellent presentation. Important subject which doesn't get discussed enough, which you've covered it extremely well. Not only the methods and consequences but also tips on tools and their usage were very helpful. Thank you so much once again, you've done another great deed to the rest of the world!
I was taught to deburr the pipe. I only knew that it was the best way to mate the pipe to the fittings and never understood why the inside of the pipe needed it also. I didn't know that excess solder could cause erosive corrosion either. Thanks. I just found your channel and appreciate your work
I've alway grind the outside edge (deburr) to make it easy to insert but only limed away the inside lip made by my cuts, never made any deep "correct" deburr I didn't know this could have this much of an impact. Very informative channel! :) I learned a lot in a short time.
I only watched soldering videos to change my guitar pickups, now youtube decided that i shall install new pipes for my bathroom. I can't argue with that.
Had to redo all the main pipes in a house I was living in because of it. Take it seriously, installers. It seemed like someone was playing a trumpet somewhere in the house whenever a faucet was being used. Even the neighbors next to me could hear it.
Bored? It didnt make a difference unless there was metering device the pipe was going to. The corrosion crap is just that... crap. Haha been doing heat and air for forever and it does matter on refrigerant lines because of the metering devices. Water pipes are unaffected. This video acts like all piping is copper but most pipes that handle the tasks they are talking about are pvc and it doesn't burr like copper piping so it doesnt require reaming. Just more trade security. Lol
@@charlesstidham2788 I dont know about you, but we use copper pipes. Not PVC, not multilayer, or anything like that. It totally made the difference and there was no more rattling, vibrations and banging. All the clamps became loose because of the vibrations, but tightening it didn't make any difference at all, just gave more bass to that noise. Burrs will never benefit your installation in any way, in any kind of installation, so why leave em? It only takes 5 seconds to deburr a pipe, and if you're soldering it is supposed to be a permanent installation. Unless you're after callbacks it doesn't make any sense
Conventional pipe cutters don't leave a burr on the outside of metal pipes, because they incorporate a roller that smooths the burr down as the tool is rotated about the pipe. Only the inside burr needs to be removed.
I kinda thought I knew the importance of deburring but just thought it was to ensure a solid union. Never would have thought the burrs could ultimately cause pins holes due to turbulence. great video!
Absolutely correct. . But at the same time pipe turbulence is everywhere in your home. From water passing by a tee to a gate valve to a reducer. . Water is a pain in the ass basically. That's why I wash with sand 🤣
Im a commercial new build plumber and I propress copper a lot and Im not going to lie, most of the time i dont debur the pipe but im going to buy the tool for it.
I'm only DIY but assumed that the cutter type you rotate around, closing in the cutter as you go, left a perfectly clean enough edge. Thank you now I know better
I do a lot of copper pipe fittings, almost no plumbers seem to do deburring. I saw one plumber deburring the pipe, however when checking the inside pipe the lip was not completely removed. I use a metal counter sink drill bit in the drill. Helps when doing a lot and larger diameters. Once again great content.
Good video, I'm not a professional but do a lot of this and that and i always debur the inside and outside of all different pipes, but its good to know the problems that it can cause if you dont, as a lot of us do things by the book not realising why were doing it, really appreciate the video.
Not much of a plumber, but as a PC builder who also build custom watercooling deburr is also required in there. Best 0.5cm at 45 degree angle and also inside. Both for flow and not damaging one of the o-rings in the fittings.
Get a piece of pipe and some elbows and a cap. Then a torch and some solder and flux. Practice by making a J shape with two elbows and cap the short part. Place it in a bucket of water and blow into the pipe and look for bubbles. It’s not as hard as you think to teach yourself a new skill.
I completely agree with this, I have to wonder how long the burr will last vs it's impact on the pipe. i.e. the burr itself will get worn away over time.
the way i picture in my head is a sportscar (water) going full speed over a speed bump (burr) and the car's front bumper scraping the pavement (the pipe wall). the wear on the burr will be minimal compared to the damage to the wall.
Most of the simplest craftsmanship has gone downhill as time goes on. Everyone is just worried about getting the job done fast. If your fast and precise then your badass. If your fast and lack in quality then you a useless POS. “Any job worth doing is worth doing right” “No one has TIME to do it right but they have plenty of TIME to go back and fix it.” 🙄😜🤷♂️
Got2Learn Thanks. I had good teachers coming up as an Industrial Ironworker/Fabricator in the chemical plants and refineries around the Houston area. I was taught by old school all the way. Work your ass off for them as a helper coming up then they teach you what they know. If your lazy then they won’t pass it down. 👍
Yea I've noticed that most the craftsmanship is gone. No one has pride in what they do anymore it makes me wanna get out of plumbing honestly. But it's all I know an I dont even know it I'm not a journeymen but j know enough to make a living
Awesome video.. I recently was attending a trade school plumbing class where I tried to teach students to debur the pipe, and the plumber said to me.. 'We don't debur'.. I said nothing, as to avoid disunity and an argument in front of student and teachers (& otherwise, I honestly think the guy is probably an above-average plumber), but it irked me to see bad practice being taught.. I witnessed such pinholes likely created by a lack of deburring wreak havoc on my CA apartment complex's circulating hot-water loop.. There is one additional advantage to deburring (that may not have been mentioned)- as long as you remove the post-debur "shavings", deburring reduces the likelihood of slivers breaking free and damaging plumbing fixture o-ring downstream.
I am a plumber and not deburring the pipe after you cut it with tubing cutters is against code, the inspector could possibly make you remove the install if he wanted to,you must deburr and ream the pipe to its full inside diameter so as not to affect the flow of water
I am not a plumber, but I have done lots of copper joints on my cars fuel systems. First thing is- it is cleaner look. it gives me inner piece, that I made perfect clean job. Other thing is inner dimension. When you are working with 6 or 8mm pipes, this edge can lower inner diametre to 4 or 6mm. So it is really small in that area, and reduces fuel flow a lot. Debris. Cut it away, and you won't see any copper debris for shure. And lastly. When you are makeing sleeve, sleeve won't fit to pipe, if you have cutting edge there.
I had all my copper pipe extrude polished to a 10 micro finish. I'm hoping to increase my pressure and flow as it passes through the pipe. I should get over 50 years of life out of it. I will be eating a dirt sandwich by then but at least water will be flowing nice and smooth through those pipes!
Great job. You have went the extra mile. One point on the increased pressure and flow. I have read that pressure and flow do not increase on a horizontal pipe because of the friction of the liquid rubbing on the walls of the pipe as it is flowing (this would not be noticeable except on a very long run of pipe). On the other hand, flow and pressure of the liquid will increase on a pipe that is dropping in elevation because of gravity or head pressure. I understand that the pressure will increase .433 PSI per 12” of elevation drop. Or 4.33 PSI per 10’ of drop or 43.3 PSI per 100’ of elevation drop and so on. Just some info I’ve read about piping from years ago.
you should see the HVAC "experts" in my country. none of them know anything about copper piping, and will try to convince you that it is perfectly normal for a split air conditioner to lose most of its coolant (and therefore capacity) within 5-6 years. of course, they will offer to refill it for a "small" fee. a very nice customer scam and enviromental damage combo.
Good explanation. When I was learning pipe welding you would fail the test if you have to much reinforcement. The goal was 1/16" to 1/8" (max). But the reasoning is the same, turbulence and back pressure
I see the results of this all the time on recirculating lines, absolutely frustrating. Been changing the lines to pex with plastic fittings on the upstream edge to minimize erosion.
Recirc lines are the worst - hot water running 24. - 7. Had lots of erosion and corrosion in my commercial units. Especially when the contractor cheats and runs schedule M instead of K. (The M has the thinnest wall, K the thickest.).
I fought tooth and nail on a 1/2 inch section of copper pipe going to a spigot under my bedroom floor that had two 90° angles leading out through foundation. 4 times I wiggled my fat butt down under there due to pin hole leaks . And each time lasted about a month . I gave up and used a section of pex pipe and fittings. Granted it has not failed yet but I was sure it was due to acidic or alkaline water chemically eroding the copper. We do have very hard water but only this section consistently failed. Now that I've seen this video it explains it . I fixed it 4 times and then by a professional plumber twice. He said it was due to freeze burst . But right around the pinhole it was thin not cracked or bulged. Anyways I really learned something here . I only wish I had seen this sooner 😪 Great video !
Ive been in HVACR for about a year (Yes I’m an apprentice still). And I will say, Deburring isn’t dead, not totally. Usually bigger boiler jobs, usually involving wall hung gas boilers or just a new oil run boiler, we measure, de-burr before you clean the pipe, then solder. We usually use Acetylene. Interesting to see how the plumbers do it 👍🏻💪🏻
@@mercinc2926 we use nitrogen to purge out any excess solder and de burring shavings. It makes the job longer but hey.. mo money and better functionality
While they're at it clean the flux off after soldering,it turns the area around the joints green,look in your own house,it's a good bet you'll find green joints,they will rot eventually.Another annoyance is seeing copper pipes running through walls without being sleeved or wrapped,another point where corrosion can strike.It's all done for speed,many can't be bothered to do a good job.
Great video, why you ream/deburr along chamfering the pipe are literally one of the first things I was studious about and learned right when I started plumbing. Of course as well as establing the habbit,I've only been at it a year and a half,have met plenty ignorant people who don't know why or even do it. I actually even got made fun for chamfering my 4" pvc,haha. I own that reed chamfering tool as well,along with the ridgid bottle reamers,they are amazing.
@@Got2Learn Defintely what I was told ,or I can quote by some of the ignorant plumbers I have met. I just responded, if they want to do half ass work,then so be it. Also great visualizations.
I always learn a lot from this channel. I always just cut the pipe with little half turns at a time. Always cuts slower but usually leaves just a bit behind I usually hit with some sand paper
G2L- Your videos are the best, and so far, this one on deburring is the best of the best! This is professional instruction! Narration is paced nicely, demos are great, comparisons of good and bad, before and after, cutaway views, animations, and explanations - just crazy excellent! And kept to a reasonable time. So I didn't try the file, but I tried the built-in reamer on my Reed TC1Q and that seemed small and hard to manipulate on 1/2" copper. Next I tried a pencil reamer, and without much practice it didn't work anywhere close as nice as in your video, maybe I can do better with a lot more practice. Then I tried a Husky inner/outer (barrel) reamer, and immediately got great results on the inside. But for the outside, the barrel didn't stay centered for me turning the barrel. What did work for me was to put the barrel tool on the floor (held between my shoes) and rotate the pipe (like a basic pencil sharpener), although not possible if the pipe is very long or already installed. Thanks again!
Wow, thank you so much for your great comment, I really appreciate it. Some people prefer a pemcil reamer some a cone reamer, it all comes down to preference and then practicing with it, good job Larry!
Thanks for sharing. Now i know why my old copper pipes have pin hole leaks. Luckily, as all my pipes were outside and visible, I was able to fix it with some soldering.
Me either, i dont even think it's in our regs to be honest, it's certainly not something inspected in the uk. And the only time I've seen pinholes myself is on the actual fitting, I've never seen it cause problems even on commercial installs
that is awesome. The tool you are using does the job nicely and clean and your examples of why it is important are simple, clear and easy to understand.
@@Got2Learn Yes. My grandmother's flooring contractor stole my tools because they forgot their own. If professionals will do that, forgetting to deburr must be common.
Thanks for explaining why you "need" to bevel the outside edge -- I don't use sharke-bites, so just use the emory paper to smooth it because that's what how I was taught, but I guess I don't need to do that. One other tool you can use to ream the inside of the pipes is a stepped drill bit. But that really only works out well if you have an assistant doing the cutting / reaming on a big job. Otherwise it's just easier to use the reamer on the cutter so you don't have to change tools.
I was working for a residential contractor in California years ago and we had hired a frind of one of the guys that worked there that had been a plumber in South Carolina and a building inspector asked him what he used to ream pipe. He said "what do you mean ream?" It was a small apartment building maybe only 8 units, 10 at the most. They made us take every inch of pipe out and pile it in the garage before we could re pipe it.
It's really not a problem nowadays with the internet. The only time it really happens in any appreciable amount is when people are too cheap. They want to hire someone off Facebook marketplace or a neighborhood app, and find some random person's cousin's boyfriend that will do it for a 6 pack. Or the person doesn't take the time to vet a contractor online.
Even as an electrician the importance of reeming your pipes is very important and having clean square cuts on your ends of pipes in between couplings. The other day I was running a single set of wire through a pipe from a plug to a pull box maybe 10 feet away with on 90° bend and 2 box offset bends. I should have been able to easily push the wire through and been done in about 5 minutes, but because they person that installed it, did an awful job I had to take the entire thing apart, and Reem all the connections points, this ended up taking about an hour instead of 5 minutes
You dont need to do this. And doing this in places where its impossible to get the burr out of the pipe is only going to cause potential problems. The absolute minuscule amount of burr left inside certain fittings isnt going to cause any problems whatsoever (as long as your cutter is sharp), a TEE junction or Elbow will cause a lot more restriction than any burr will. And I've never seen a copper pipe with a pinhole in it in 20 years of plumbing/heating and ive seen pipework that's 60yrs old.
@@davidwellander6030 Holes caused by damage yes (nails etc), I've had copper pipes blocked with scale, copper pipes burst because they have frozen, snapped because someone's stopped on them or a radiator has fallen off the wall, I've had 100s of steel radiators pinhole, I've had copper pipes that have worn through where the floorboards are rubbing against them. I've had corroded pipes that have been laid in concrete with no protection. But I've never had a single pinhole in a copper pipe that is in use. I once had a cold mains pipe that had been drained down and not being used for 20 years be refilled and have about 100 pin holes all the way along its 20ft length, but that's different, that's due to corrosion with the small amount of water left in the pipe and the reaction between that, the air and the copper. Maybe it's the quality of copper or water treatment we have here that means I've never seen one. Roughly 20 years.
Hell I just had one last Friday, guy called our office complain about water coming through his ceiling and we cut out all the soft drywall and it was coming from a pinhole in the 1" main from corrosion, kinda crazy how that works.
Thanks. Hopefully I will find an application for this in the near future. Less noise = happy me. Less problems down the line, even better 👍. Could be useful in several applications from cars, radiators, plumbing and more. Quick and dirty fixes becomes a headache later on.
@@Got2Learn no se si comprendes español o no, pero videos como los que haces en tu canal hacen falta en mi idioma. Yo hablo y comprendo bien ingles pero aqui en California hay muchos que estan en el oficio que no lo hacen y al momento de que les enseño tus videos no comprenden todo lo que explicas en ellos por la barrera del idioma. Maybe creating a channel like the one you have but in Spanish would help a lot. Let me know what you think.
Thank you! I've been looking at a few of your videos and they are concise and well-explained. Your animations/demonstrations really help to prove your point and helps us to understand. Very informative and well done! Much appreciated.
You would be surprised at the number of so called plumber who do not deburr the pipes. I have repaired so many pin hole pipes that if I would have a dollar I would get rich. The lazy plumbers will demand top dollar for a job done half ASS. It is refreshing that you have covered this topic of a true craftsman. I can tell you that I have a reamer used in the machine shop that reams the outer and inter in about three seconds with a perfect radius on both sides. Perfection just like a craftsman. Wish all plumbers would be forced to do what you are showing. Good day.
Copper is still the best way to deliver water and has a cleaning effect through a chemical reaction. Except if you have sulfated water then the big fat NO. Will dissolve the pipe for sure. Keep on making videos for us all to see and learn too.
