Nice instructional video. This is exactly the purpose and project I am working on right now. If only I had the components sitting around on my workbench instead of tracking them down.
I'm no electrician either, but I would feel a lot safer if the outlet was at least in a 35 cent plastic outlet box in there. Why not use a 15 amp or even a larger relay? The outlet you plug all of this into is at least 15 amp... which brings me to... I'm thinking you should have a fuse or a breaker in there to limit you to 10 amp if you're using that 10 amp relay.
I was thinking of running grow lights in the winter and a fan in the summer in Wyoming. All ran off of a solar panel, wind generator or other non grid power system.
For those of you who want to try this on your window AC pay attenting to mold that might form in the unit. Usually on a thermistor controlled unit the condenser is turned off first and then the fan after a while to push all the cold air out. Since that doesnt apply in this case condensation might form inside the unit. Just something to watch out for.
I wired mine the same way but I put a high voltage poly capacitor across the relay contacts, I think .1uf 300volts. I did that so it won't arc across the contacts. The cap kinda acts like a shock absorber on a car making the contacts last longer. I also wired in a transient-voltage-suppression diode I think 50 volt across the relay coil just to make sure the electronics in the thermostat is protected. I used a programmable thermostat I got really cheap on eBay for 13 bucks that usually cost about 80 bucks new. I had a 24volt AC transformer and just made a full wave bridge rectifier using 4 diodes.
I was going to make one of these with a digital thermostat but then I saw they already made temp controlled outlet. Some of the reviews were concerning so I think I might just build one like you did.
Thanks for this video :) built this just before i went to the lake with my old RV to use with the window AC unit and electric space heater, i have it set with dual outlets, 1 plugs into the heater and the other into the AC unit, and used a thermostat that has an "auto" option to choose between heat and cool on its own Put the thermostat on the wall, ran the wires to the outlets closest to each application and set it on auto for 20°C so during the day the AC will kick on and cool the RV and as it dips down cooler in the night it kicks on the space heater keeping it between 20°C-21°C :) The old furnace in my RV didnt work and hated trying to set the space heater every night to the "perfect" temp to wake up either freezing cold or boiling hotbinside :/
I just did this except I used a 24v 20AMP 120v contactor and put it on the inside of the ac unit with the capacitor and ran thermostat wire in where the power comes in. Works great so far!
You said you were using for ac.. so that it would turn off the fan when it got cold enough. But at end of your video you showed that (the light) that was plugged in wich represents your ac when you plug it in shut off when you turned the thermostat up from like 65 to 80. I may be wrong but if your using it for ac you would want it to shut off when it got to a cooler temp not upwards of 80-90degrees etc. By the way you have it it technically would never shut off because if your cooling the room via your ac it will never reach 80 degrees to then turn off.
That thermostat is designed to control 24 VAC relays. He could connect a transformer to the 120VAC line in using the 120VAC to drive a transformer to drive the coil on the relay and use the same 120VAC in to power the outlet. Of course, stuffing 120VAC Electric circuits inside a wooden 'electrical box' is not a great idea. But then, using 16 gauge wire for the 120VAC feed to a 15 AMP duplex outlet to drive an air conditioner belies any clear appreciation of the National Electrical Codes.
Really neat project and idea, however I would have soldered all of my connections and used at least 14 gauge solid wiring. That extension cord will definitely get warm with that constant load on it. Idk what size AC you are using etc… but great explanation and interesting topic. Thanks!
Awesome video love it I have a question about the thermostat when u hook it up on the red n green the black wire goes into the red n the white on green.i think that's what I saw on the video if I'm not mistaken. Keep up the good work
I picked up a new (?) digital thermostat at a yard sale. Furnaces usually operate on 24 Volts? Should it make an difference if I use a 12V power supply source and relay?
I just watched this and literally commented same thing. He said he wanted it so his fan didn't always run as it got cooler. And it didn't turn off until he turned temp to like 80. He has his "idea" backwards .. the way he has now it will never turn off.
Its wierd how my ge thermostat uses the g terminal for indoor fan and y fir cooling but yours is different since y is heating for you but it will still work if the fan is set to auto and will work for heating and cooling but if set to on it will be on all the time but yeah the fan is anyway going to still for cooling and heating thanks for the information I'm planning on trying this in the future
You need to tell us what type of brand is that coil this way I can try to copy what you was making I would appreciate if you get back to me thank you Mike
Ya know i did the same thing for a small fan for an air compressor motor thats in a closet so it vents out when it gets warm. But i didnt use a 24v power supply. I just straight ran the 120 through the thermostat.. stood back the first test but it just worked like it usually did, no difference and the wires dont get hot m but now i am only using it for a fan @ .3a/20w so just a wee tiny draw.. id guess if i ran an ac unit off of it then those itty bitty wires would party pretty hard.. i was more worried about the mercury switch being enclosed and the arc that would happen with 120 compared to the 24 it usually does and if u watch those on the 24v its still a decent spark... but 120’s just the same.. good dill though pickle...
What modifications would be needed for a 240V outlet? I am trying to run something similar for a 240v space heater and want to have the stat cut off the power if it gets too hot as a fail safe. I assume a different relay and the wiring will be different but is that all or would i need any changes to the stat for 240v?
I would think just the relay and wiring as you stated. They also make thermostat limit switches that you can get in different temperatures that would meet that need. They use them in microwaves and other appliances to keep them from getting hot enough to start a fire. Good luck with your build!
You need the relay to carry the high amps of what you are plugging into it. The contact in the actual thermostat will not handle the current. Hope that helps!
Scott, I live in a 3rd floor walkup and bought a window A/C last year. The thermostat doesn't always work - I leave it on 77 degrees for the day for my dog, and some days it I come home and the apartment is FRIGID. I'm not terribly handy, but came upon your video while searching for a solution. Would this be the best solution for my situation based on what I wrote? I'm looking for simplicity, and while a build-your-own would be great, I'm just looking for a simple solution. Do you have any thoughts you would be willing to share with me? Much appreciated!
This would work for you. You need to look on your unit and see how many amps it uses and make sure the relay you use will handle that many amps. I would use a digital thermostat. Here is a link to another similar video that may be easier for you to wire.: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-nNyl_m9ASQg.html It may look more complicated but you really only need the unit that you buy and an outlet. Good luck!
Soat Mon: I reviewed your video, but it is actually too complex for me. I live in a small apartment and don't have access to the tools required to build that box. The A/C is 10,000 BTU's (model is CL-WAC10A - brand is Cool Living). I see that it requires a "120v/15 Amp household outlet", which I presume is a standard electrical outlet? I'm wondering if there is simply a device that I can plug my A/C into that has a thermostat built in that will simply make the A/C a 'smart' device? I appreciate your helpful response. If you can help me more, I would be most grateful!!
I actually already have 2 of them: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Nuf8-VJ9Xcg.html ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-mosdCqs_2BE.html :)
@@SoatMon After researching, if you swap your dc transformer for a 24vac transformer and the relay for an ac coil instead of dc, you can send the coil/transformer leg to a "c" wire to complete power for a smart thermostat. So you would end up using the red blue and yellow thermostat wires. also you will have to hook a green wire to the thermostat that goes nowhere. smart thermostats wont turn the AC on unless they sense that a fan wire is connected
are you able to assist me with my same project ???? I set up the same to run a duct fan. went over all connections several times and the fan on the heater goes on then instead of off the fan lowers to a almost off speed / stays on real low. I unplug the project and alls well to run just cant get the duct fan to go on and off with thermostat/project. also does it matter if the heat pump is a ruud systems ???
I'm not sure what is going on but you don't want to use a thermostat that is connected to an AC or heating unit. They have 24 volts running to them and that may be the issue. If it is a stand alone like I showed, I would trace the wiring and see if you can find it. It's kind of hard to troubleshoot without seeing it.
Can I use this to my window unit ac to make it get my room below 65 degrees? It cuts the cooling off at 63-65 and I need it colder. Does this work like the coolbot? Or is it just to provide power if it gets hot
@@dougs7367his is 120v@10 amp x 28v@3amp. Look at your wall wart and buy according to it. If your supply is less than an amp, it might not engage a 3 amp relay.
You can do that with the device DS100. Plus buying already made device is cheaper and it comes with a warranty. It is exactly what I have for the same purpose you described. You get the updates from the NEST not from the Thermostat Controlled Outlet. With that said you do not need to build something that already exists.
I hope after 1year you realized that the ds100 is only rated at 5 amps and would die trying to run an ac. A safe, high amp temperature switch is expensive. Don't post ignorant comments. Or go ahead and keep the laughs coming.
