Hum good to know, I replaced my original 3 hole unit, that was actually on the truck when it was purchased in 2001. But I'll keep the 9051 in mind for the next time I need one. Hopefully that won't be for another 20 years. I did look them up on eBay and they start at $292.81 plus tax. My 3 hole unit on eBay goes for around $109.99 plus tax, but they don't have the torque the new 2 hole $69.50 high torque units or the 9051 have. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya
Not to mention changing and upgrading battery cables! My truck had a super slow crank. Fixed all my connections, replaced every cable that had any corrosion. Upgraded the cable between the two batteries. Added some more grounds and a main cable from the alternator to the battery. The crank speed of the truck has increased dramatically.
I did literally every exact thing you did when I got my '01 last year. It runs so damn smooth now, I love it! One thing I learned the hard way, BUY GENUINE MOTORCRAFT SENSORS! I started off with a chinese knockoff for the ICP sensor and it idled horribly! dropped the cash for a motorcraft sensor and it made a world of difference. If you haven't already, next best thing you can do is install a Mishimoto or 6.0l transmission cooler. I'd never tow with the stock cooler.
Save yourself some money and try the BD Diesel Bypass Tube Eliminator Kit for $30 instead. If that doesn’t bring trans temps down enough, then sure, go ahead and buy the mishimoto or 6.0 trans cooler kits
Next thing I would suggest is changing that top radiator hose to the "secondary alternator hose", which goes around the serpentine belt. Allows you to change the belt without having to remove the radiator hose
@@silverridgeramblin3066 Bro you've done all of that and you haven't done the A/C mod its 35 bucks and totally ford parts... radiator hose is a must if you're going to be tinkering around...
@@WhattheVloggity so there is a vacuum operated valve from a ford ranger... ill find a video... pretty much when you turn on max a/c it closes the blender door on the passenger side... you piggy back the vacuum line to a valve at the heater core and it shuts off the heater core and you get 20+ degree drop... it cost less than $50 ive had it for years all ford parts.... freeze your ass off
The idle and surging issue was resolved with the change of the ICP. None of the other changes resolved that issue. The cross over just equalizes the oil pressure between both heads and the fuel system mod from riffraff is to solve the fuel dead heading. It's basically a cheap regulated return. In my experience the CPS either works or it doesn't. When it dies it doesn't give you a warning before it dies. I bought my 99 f-350 SRW brand new and I've gone through my fare share CPS and only once did the CPS shutdown my truck but would restart and keep running. Everyother time it just stopped and won't restart.
Good comment. I was wondering what that idle surging sound was. Concerning cam sensors I bought a 7.3 a couple of years ago and didn’t know which one I had in there. Dang Borg Warner sensor, makes your truck shut off randomly at idle while using windshield wipers. Bizarre stuff
Vent your hood if you tow heavy, it makes a world of difference. That and water methanol injection made the biggest difference. If you do not tow heavy, skip both honestly. I tow a 42 foot fifth wheel through the mountains of CO. Mishimoto oversized aluminum radiator is a huge help as well. I did the oversized Mishimoto intercooler as well as the Mishimoto 6.0L transmission cooler.
ICP indications are low MPG and rough acceleration. When the ICP goes bad the ECM uses a default setting and that uses more fuel. I've heard that is some instances it can cause a no start. If you have a no start just pull the plug and see if the engine starts. Then put it back on and if it doesn't start then you know it's bad. Check the ICP connections too, if they are sloppy and the insulation won't hold onto the wires then buy the pigtail kit and use Environmentally sealed splices and replace the connector. I wholly agree with using the original FORD CPS. All CPS's fail at one time or another, so keep a new spare behind the seat along with the 10mm socket, 3" extension and small breaker bar to change it should it fail. The CPS is also a dealer recall, I took mine in and they changed it for free. As far as the Injector noise I get the Cackling on my 01 as well. I've been told some AMSOIL will help fix that. I'll have to check out that FRx mod I could use a little more on the bottom end when I accelerate, especially when it's cold. Thanks for a really nice video on some mods I've been considering. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya
For anyone wondering about that particular noise. I was told by a Ford Mechanic at a dealership that injector #8 is different than all the rest. This injector is a little shorter/longer (cant remember exactly) than the rest. Placing the incorrect injector in this spot will not affect performance or the longevity of any components. Ford merely made this change to eliminate the cackle since they knew it would bother some people.
Its cackle from #8. Hurts nothing and us Michigan guys ❤ the sound. Got an 01 7.tree f2shity 650k works in construction everyday of its life and still purrs like a kitten
The air filter made a definite difference before I started the other upgrades. I paid a turn key solution of turbo, chipped, exhaust. I pull a 10K 5th wheel all over our great country with no problems. I am going to add an exhaust brake if my diesel mechanic says it is ok.
It's ok as long as you don't constantly use it only when you must. They are very hard on your turbo and can ruin one quickly. Only know this is because I put exhaust brakes on three of my fleet trucks (all 7.3 powerstrokes superduty) and my guys ruined the turbos because they enjoyed not using the brake pedal so much and ended up burning up every single turbo. All of my trucks are DOT Certified and have their yearly inspections along with regular maintenance and those pacbrakes (A.K.A. exhaust brake) are great for heavy loads on a grade but should not be used constantly because it will cost you big time if you're not careful its only a matter of time (not if just when)
The Surge you felt was from the turbo. It's not the most efficient so it creates turbo surge. I run mine on 75 tune. Tighten wastegate no exhaust. 6 Speed 300000 miles beautiful fuel mileage and this thing flies
Looks like my old 7.3 mine was a 02 with the afe blade runner intake, TS performance chip, cold air intake and 5" exhaust. It wasn't the fastest truck but it's had enough power and reliability I needed. It only had 135k on it when I let it go. To this day I still regret getting rid of it.
I have that air filter and a oiled type from Rifraf. I drilled a hole in my adaptor pipe and installed the factory vaccuum gauge. The paper filter brand new will restrict flow enough to move the gauge about 1/8 or so towards the dirty mark. the oiled firter has better flow. I see no increase in milage. 200/30 injectors.
Do the exhaust back pressure sensor along with the tube that connects it to the passenger manifold and even the bracket the sensor sits in, it gets clogged with soot and affect your mileage
@@andrewtokar3223 Theoretically the cooler incoming air will help cool the intake spider which is already taxed with heat. May be an insignificant amount of cooling but, from the drag racing world I was involved in some time ago, every little bit helps to achieve a greater goal. Hope this makes sense for you.
Definetly recommend a fuel and oil treatment to clean the injectors especially with the higher mileage, and may help quiet that crackle you've got. Most of the noise you talk about is either from stiction and/or the rod bearings when they get worn in they tend to make a bit more noise.
I’m thinking of a similar intake but I plan to weld on this 70s duster hood scoop so it can jam air into the engine bay otherwise that intake style will just suck in all that warm engine heat plus it’ll be something different
I bought a napa filter similar to the one you have, however, I am unsure what to do with the sensor inside the stock airbox which measures the temperature? Can you advise? Also did you use the stock intake hose with an adapter? If so which one? Thanks
You prob figured it out by now. I just zip tied the sensor behind the filter. Letting it be open to the air around it. For an adaptor I used a piece of exhaust pipe. I believe 4inch.
"Another thing I have done to this truck....." as he crawls under front end ...... I painted my diff cover purple. Just bustin balls buddy. Good to still see some 7.3s still out there. BTW my thumbs up is number 444. Ring a bell?
Food for thought... I found a significant fuel economy increase was by putting in a new fan clutch...(suspecting that it was worn/ not running as 'free' as it should be turning) big dia.fan = exponential drag ...picked up 5mpg just like that!! It is a fairly low price investment for that fuel money saver...powerband was stronger too...
Good info..I may do these mods to my 01 350 LB Crew 4x4 in about 100,000 miles..she is running great with all factory parts @ 73,000 actual miles..Former Alabama State fleet unit..I practically stole this from a guy who bought at auction.
Well, here's what I can tell you guys about the whole "hot air, cold air" intake temperature. It doesn't do one noticable thing to improve performance either way. The cheaper 6637 add on filter is a fantastic upgrade....Do it.... The cold air units are expensive, and look really good...but the results are pure marketing and hype
It was nice to see a clean engine. Most videos show an engine that's never been washed off ! I spray it down with Simple Green on a cold engine and spray it off after like 15 minutes. Mine is at 538,000 miles now.
You want a nice mod add the riff raff fuel feed lines with no check ball in the end and make sure you change the inside banjo bolts to the mow open flow
I have monitored under hood temp while driving and it was the same as ambient temp. When stopped, temp increases but as soon as you drive, it returns to ambient.
Stay away from Riff Raff for sensors. I just received a cam position sensor it was black. The ICP sensor and the IPR valve the bags appeared to have been resealed. Some of Riff Raff stuff is okay but I would definitely stick with Ford Motorcraft from a Ford dealer There's Something Fishy going on with Riff Raff and electrical sensors components. These trucks will run forever if taken care of it's a shame they're on the verge of Extinction
They sell Motorcraft sensors, don't buy the black one, get the blue one that they advise. As an alternative go to Guzzle for parts, always genuine ford parts.
The fuel crossover kit probably came with the spring for the actual regulator. The spring in the stand pipe inside the bowl doesnt really make a difference.
why can't the number 8 injector b just a bit stronger if it gets starved. Rest of info & explanation in this video is great spot on God is happy w/your work, more ppl should follow your lead.
Air filter sucker just change OEM reg no problems it’s the biggest problem we see at the shop ppl don’t maintain them OEM or aftermarket.Reg. Maintains is The Key to owning a Diesel old or new then they run forever Newer ones need deleted n worth every $ If you have the $ u can make them GoFast n PullHard n Durable $$$$$ Lol But True
I think I’m getting at least 16 mpg between home and work. I’ve seen 20 once but that was all highway. I pretty much use the truck for towing now, so between 8-10mpg with a enclosed trailer 7500~ pounds
@@andrewbodey5025 when I pull my enclosed trailer, it’s a struggle to get up certain grades. It’s just one giant parachute. I’m constantly watching my egt’s but I probably wouldn’t do over 12k with a 5th wheel. My truck is very stock, just a bigger trans cooler
I average 16.6 the lowest I got not towing middle of cold winter was 14.4 and I was not happy! Best almost 20 with 4x4 and 373s banks 4 inch and other breathe easy things and a few aero upgrades
Bigger filter doesnt improve intake volume and so doesnt require more exhaust volume. Simply improves throttle response before the turbo spools because less restriction. Also allows you to hear those sweet turbo noises more.
Sounds like you’re really Internet smart there just because he read about it doesn’t mean you know these trucks L O L does video kind of seems like he watched a bunch of videos and then did some work to your truck and talk to people on the phone
I used an aftermarket cam sensor 1 time, when I would turn on my wipers, it killed the truck. I changed the CPS to a motorcraft, problem went away. Craziest shit ever
I love it but selling it , if anyone is looking for a clean on this is it, it's a South Carolina truck but in Maine for summer, contact if interested . Thanks
If your worried about fuel mileage then get you a Toyota. I don’t know if you realize but your driving a 3/4 ton with a big block. Your not gonna get good fuel mileage
