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And all this time I've avoided doing floating shelves because I had to buy the right metal rods for support and ensure they align with the wood stock...wow. Thank you for showing such a more efficient way of making these.
Don't do this. Get the rods. Once the wood drys and shrinks, those screws will get loose and it will sag. Also that corner edge can break away, especially with the pocket holes on top. Plus pocket holes should only be used when used at BOTH END OR SIDES to keep boards/shelves from twisting. This is a bad idea.
Just wanted to give you a big THANK YOU!! I used this video tutorial and your other video to make a set of 27” and a set of 24” long floating shelves. I used a 2”x10”x12ft douglas fir green lumber from Lowe’s (the usual stuff they sell on the floor). The pocket screw idea worked amazing well. The 2”x10” shelves do not have any wobble/movement/sagging. Solid. I used the 3-1/8” GRK screws you rec from Amazon. Appreciate you very much. Got to stain the shelves the colors we wanted and saved hundreds of dollars since solid floating shelves are very pricey online and doesn’t always come in the color you want. You saved me big $$$!!!
Did you also follow his advice about not drilling all the through "so the screws will hold the weight of the wood without cracking"? I only ask because what's that mean exactly, like the drill hole is 1/2" from coming through the end, 3/4" or 1" just curious thinking about trying it myself.
@@geico1975 yes don’t drill all the way through. If you use the pocket hole jig tool, it will prevent you from drilling all the way through anyway. The pocket hole jig tool has a stopper that prevents you from drilling all the way through so just be sure to use that.
I've been using pocket holes for the past 30 years and never thought of using it for this purpose. Job well done. will use this in the near future. Thanx
Nice Job and a Great Idea !!! But im an Old Guy i Still Use a Horizontal Ledger, and Gussets That would Hold 500 LBs maybe More !! Your way is a Very Decorative Look !!! and it Does Look Very Nice !!! iv been Making Sawdust for over 65 Years Now !!! i Even Helped out Building of the Ark !!!
LOVE this video, made my own today and they did turn out great but a little wobbly. Used the same screws you did but the only difference is I used 3/4” thick wood instead of 2”. Still functional and great for what I need them for but curious if me decreasing the thickness of the board is what contributed to the less strong hold as my German Shepard couldn’t even stand on mine without it falling out of the wall. Again, perfect video and perfect tutorial. Thank you so much!
I am so excited. This is the best video I have seen and I have looked at a dozen. We are going to make a fireplace mantle using this technique. It won’t be holding more than 20 lbs. I am going to distress it and stain it black. I will post it when I am done. Thanks for using normal tools.
Thank you for giving me an idea of keeping my CD player and two small speakers on the wall. As my apartment is quite small now I know how to place the CD player on the wall. Thanks again.
It worked well and now I'm enjoying the rock music from the CDs and my wife is going crazy of the sound. Anyway, once again thank you so much for the advice.
I found this to work great with2x8s 2x10 max 2x12s will sag for 2x12 s rod is best to use . Also I learned if the shelf doesn’t look level is because the wall not level itself. Nothing a few shims couldn’t couldn’t fix in my house To hide shims under . Nice 1/2 inch corner round molding around the shelf took care of that .thanks for vid
nice！m looking for a solution for my router and other things, kids always want to reach them, then found this one, I'll give it a try, and it seems nice! Update, I did one for my router, and it looks great. I just bought a new Kreg jig and the drill that comes with the kit has a length indication, so you don't have to make a guess which is good for me(new to the woodwork and no sense for length ). Hand saw a 2 by 10, 8 ft long and cut a straight-line was a challenge, and I would make an investment for an electronic saw and sanding tool later if I have more woodwork. But, your method, still, I think is one of the best for beginners like me, not too many fancy tools, but get the job done nice and easy! thanks a lot! looking forward to learning more from you!
Thats awesome! I feel like i could maybe build something too ive use a circular saw and cut all the pieces but didnt exactly know what I should make . I like the floating shelves they are great looking low profile clean lines nice!
Two questions...first, how do you take them down later? You cant drill out the plugs are you risk destroying the scrrw head. And, second, any issues with the boards warping over time?
I attempted this with 2x10 and all my shelves sagged even though I screwed into 4 studs. I had to add L brackets below the shelves and drilled them into the studs. Once I did that there was no more sagging or wobbliness. The method in the video probably works best with smaller wood boards like 2x4, 2x6 and 1x4, 1x6. Great video overall.
What screws did you use? I used the same ones he used and my 2”x10” shelves worked out awesome. My shelves were only 24” and 27” long though. But they still worked out well using this method.
@@karllazlo6237 oh shoot lol 8ft? Yeah don’t think four screws would do it, especially if the piece was solid wood. Glad you figured it out though. I think his pieces were only abt 5 ft long so 8ft is def pushing it. For anyone doing shelves fairly short in length (5ft under) this method seems to work well.
Thanks so much for this! I tried doing it but my walls are so hard to drill- Could I pre-drill the wall in a way that would fit the pocket hole angle? thanks!
Wondering if flipping the board, so that the screw goes in from below, would comprise the weight limit? 🤔 💭 Any thoughts? I’d like to hide the pocket-holes/dowel-covers by having them be underneath rather that above.
@@Nailedityt oh really? Does it cause it to sag on the side furthest from the wall? That’s where I could picture the imbalances being, due to the angle of the screw going in.
Hi, I am using 2X8 board, 36 inch length and drilling into 2 studs. The board is sagging and wobbly. Used the same screws you recommended. Any tips on how to solve this?
People on Reddit are very against pocket holes for floating shelves. I mean.. I get it, pocket holes probably were not intended for this type of application, but your stress test and long term update are really convincing me that this is the right approach. The naysayers dont have anything other to say than -- it just won't hold up.. with no real evidence like what you've presented. Argh, I'm so conflicted. Thanks for the video though, what to do what to do 😁
If you made the same pocket holes on the underside of the board and installed more screws directly below where the first screws are screwed jnto, wouldn’t that make it super sturdy?
New subscriber here and have zero knowledge on these stuff. May I know how you were able to drill the screw on the concrete wall without using toks? Did you perhaps just pushed hard with the hand drill?
Thanks! Didn't know that would hold 100+ pounds. When using pocket holes you should try to use screws that have a flat head (not your typical wood screw that has a wedged). The flat head will sit better in the pocket hole.
My home is 13 years old, apparently in some of the walls, the studs are 22-24 inches apart. I’m using 2x6x4 piece. Do you think 3 screws will be enough?
I don’t think they make a 3-1/2 version! Those screws are not actually pocket hole screws! The screws I use are made by a company called GRK! They look something like this: amzn.to/3yU6Woe These are awesome screws! Once you use them you won’t want to use anything else again!
