These Trailer Tires Suck - Check the Load Range Before you Buy 

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D before the 15 means it's a bias ply. An R in that position means it's a radial. Those are likely C rated tires which can carry about 1800 lbs each. Four times 1800 is 7200 so they exceed your trailer capacity but just barely. Trailer manufacturers put the minimum they can get away with on the new trailers to cut costs. Was typing this while you continued and the tire you chose is what I would recommend. I always put the better tires on the back axle because if you have a blowout on the front you can still control it usually without much trouble. If the back tire fails you can have the rear of the deck hit the pavement. I've had half a dozen blowouts over 30 years of pulling trailers and definitely prefer the front to be the failure point if given the option.

Trailer manufacturer's and RV manufacturer's put the cheapest lowest rated tire that will just barely meet the minimum requirements to meet the trailer specs. Always have, always will. 1820# x4 = 7280#. Meets the specs by 280#. Cheap and meets the specs. Put on the highest rated tire that you can get for your trailer if possible. It will give you more capacity which should ensure longevity. Just make sure to keep them pumped up to the specs. Typically C rated tires are rated at 50 psi. D is rated to 65 psi. E is rated to 80 psi. Just make sure that your rim is rated to handle the extra air psi of the upgraded tire. Great video.

The D on the first tire wrote in the size means its a bias tire, like the R in the second tire means it a radial tire. A radial tire is better than bias and yes you want the load range to be D or better but it normally printed in the small print. Oh just to give you a heads-up there starting to sell brand new cars without spare tires. I know a guy that bought a camaro and in the spare tire spot it has a fix a flat and small pump.

With a double axle trailer, depending on where the weight is on the trailer, 1 axle can pivot more and the other one is pushed more left and right when turning. The pushed axle will wear out the edges of the tires. Im not an expert but you hardly ever see that kind of tire wear on a single axle trailer. Even worse on a triple axle.

Usually the front tires of a tandem take a beating. They drag way worse in turns that the rear especially sharp turns, you should hear a tri axle take a sharp turn.. Keep an eye on them and rotate the new ones to keep the wear even. Highway speeds will also take its toll on trailer tires with a heavy load/close to max capacity. But it all honesty, it's just a junk tire from the manufacturer to cut costs. If I remember correctly you add up all the plys to get the "8 ply" or 5 ply.

This is an issue with RVs too. They all seem to come with what are referred to as “China bombs“. To me, tires on a trailer are like the foundation on a house. I don’t understand why manufacturers cut corners here.

spare tires are always extras with trailers, had to request one when i bought mine. most new cars now don't come with spare either! my van came with a inflator and patch/plug kit. i bought a full size rim/tire and now its huge hassle to haul around, but need it for peace of mind.

Good morning Brock, My Bwise and Diamon C came with spares. The Bwise has H rated 16 ply so when it comes time to replace im going to do my research as i want them to hold up for the long run.

Load range D means 8 ply. Load range C is 6, B is 4, and E (the highest) is 10 plies. A B before the rim size indicates a bias ply tire, an R indicates radial. Example: 205/75R15 is a radial. Bais ply tires are less expensive which is why many trailer sellers use them, even though they have lower load ratings. Radial tires have better heat dissipation, they wear more evenly, and they are generally better tires. Back in the day, many trailer sellers used to install used tires on new trailers, to save a buck.

my 2017 dodge challenger didn't come with a spare. It came with a can of fix a flat, compressor and harmon kardon subs in place of the tire

Selling a trailer without a spare should be a crime.

I saw this episode on Faces of Death, when the cinder blocks broke and the guy was trapped underneath the axle.

Just a little warning for your safety. I've had those blocks crumble changing tires before (they are very weak concrete), so your jack stands are much better. Just keep your body parts out of harms way if you continue to use them.

I heard if you’re not running ST tires on the trailer regardless if you are using truck tires the meet the load rating. They can fine you $1,000 per tire if they aren’t marked ST. I can’t get a straight answer on this.

I worked for a forklift company and our tire press came with bias ply tires. Tandem axle and very short. When turning sharp and backing it up whatever tire had the most pressure on it would buckle in or out and cause that same wear. We changed out to radials and they still did the same thing due to the way the trailer was, but it would be much less. I came through Chetopa, KS with that trailer one morning and was the most popular guy at the gas station since it was like looking at an alien space ship.

Back in the day..... people near here would get their trailers in Sikeston MO which has several trailer manufacturers. The deal was that if you wanted all new matching tires, you'd better bring them along... The ones they came with were never matching and normally used. I had friends that would buy 5 or 6 stacked up together, haul them home and sell them as a side hustle.

Brock, when it comes time to purchase another trailer. Go with one of the big brands like Sure-Trac and if you can swing it get an aluminum equipment trailer. Those rails on the sides suck for side attachment loading and pallets etc… get the longest one you can. I run a 20 FT and it’s just enough. Love the videos!

Good info and know. You should also rotate the tires just like we do on cars. That was really premature wear .

I've seen tires with excessive shoulder wear, but usually it's from under-inflation. But the shoulders on those tires are completely gone. I'd wager that the tires are really old, not in mileage, just age. I would of checked the date of manufacture on the tire. There's a 4 digit DOT number that indicates the week/year of manufacture. Then I probably would of checked the condition of the trailer's suspension, bushings, springs, mounts, etc... Narrow trailer tires are not necessarily a bad thing. If your trailer has brakes, it's important that the tire have good contact with the ground. If the tire is too wide, in inclement weather, such as water on the road, or snow, the wide tire can skid on top of the water/snow (otherwise known as hydroplaning), and when the brakes are applied, the tire will do little to slow down the combination. If the tires are more narrow, the "pizza cutter" style tire can better cut through the water/snow to reach the pavement underneath. So having a smaller tire contact patch can be beneficial. But in perfect weather, I agree, bigger is better. Also, the load range (Load C, Load D, Load E, etc...) is in reference to the number of plies it would normally of been back when tires were bias ply. Modern radials have a steel belt that is much stronger, and a single steel belt can be equal to many plies of back in the day. So don't be surprised if a "12 ply" tire only has 3 or 4 plies. Think of it like modern LED light bulb advertising 60W of light. The LED light bulb will probably only use 9 watts of energy, but will provide a light output comparable to a 60 watt incandecent bulb of years past. That fact I still remember screwing in incandecent bulbs probably reveals that I'm no spring chicken. Getting embarrassing here. Your ruined tire is a Goodride, my latest trailer came with that brand tire, 225/75-R15 Load Range D. I did have one blow out after running over some nails on interstate. Both tires were nailed, but only one blew out. I just plugged the other tire and added air to it. Lucky for me I had a spare tire, so I made it home. I was able to save the rim on the tire that blew out, so I replaced that tire and am now using it as a spare. My spare is a MasterTrack Load Range E. I've never used it, so I don't know how well it performs, but with a higher load range, I'm hoping that means "more durable".

You should consider running commercial-grade tires on your trailer in the future. Last year, I purchased a set of Transeagle All Steel ST Radials in a 225/75-15 LR F and 12 ply. They have been holding up very well, and haven’t shown any signs of wear. The max capacity is around 3200 LBs at 95 psi. I’ve used different well known brands over the years,…but they all seem to last about the same amount of time. They are very reasonably priced. You can get them in higher load ratings, but in our case, the 15” wheels would be the limiting factor. There are a few other companies the make them in this size as well. I also wouldn’t be afraid to move up from a 205 to a 225 tire. There’s not a noticeable difference between the two.

Good information. Thanks

I see a 10K trailer in your near future. They will have a Load E tire that are 225/75 as opposed to your 205/75's which is also what I have on my trailer, very similar trailer, but mine has brakes on both axles for some reason. I also watched the video because just last week, I pulled the trailer out and had not one, but two flat tires. Had no idea when that happened, but plugged both. Yes a patch would have been better, but I had a job to go to. Everything was fine until I loaded the tractor up to come home, went around a tight corner, lots of rubbing on a tight corner with two axles so close together and popped one of my plugs. Had a spare, so it wasn't a nightmare, but still hate doing "in-field" repairs or changes, where I don't have tools and equipment handy. After doing the repair and seeing they were closer to bald than I thought, I quickly ordered two tires and had them mounted and the trailer is back in operation. You suffer from what I was concerned about. My current 18' 7K trailer is plenty for my 1023E, but like I was with my 14' 3.5K trailer, right on the edge, you are close to that edge yourself with the 2038R. It's not urgent, but your needs may give you a good excuse to upgrade to a longer trailer with more weight carrying ability and more features, like the drop down ramps with that also have the built-in stabilizers in them, larger tires with 6 lug wheels and pocket tie downs. One last comment, I had the same issue as well. I bought the trailer used, but hardly used, tires were fine a year+ ago, and now with similar use as yours, certainly less than 5K, and probably less than 3K, it seems those tires should have lasted longer. Also, it seems to me that the rear axle had taken most of the brunt of the wear. I try to keep the load well balanced, but just don't know why the rear would get the most wear.

Brock good information most just look at trailers not tires God Bless All PaK

Just had to replace my 7k trailer with a 9k equipment trailer with 2 4500# axels. the axle was flexing on the 7k with my 2032r with backhoe and loaded rear tires. Was causing tire wear. Figure tractor is 5200 pounds. I really like the 2 folding ramps on the new equipment trailer and the knee they have so i dont need boards or jacks like you use when loading or unloading and not lifting the truck.

They do sell cars without spare tires

Unfortunately, most trailer tires are junk. This is the same in the RV world. I've owned several trailers and every single one has come with cheap tires. Same with my RV, cheap tires. I will never understand why manufacturers do this. To me, tires are the most important thing! Ridiculous, Brock.

My first though it to put the best tires on the axle with brakes since they are the ones that need traction.

Hi Brock, Nice video. Yes, everyone cheaps out. It's what companies do nowadays. You want a R tire, which is a radial. You could go up a width pretty easily. Watching your video, the brakes are on the rear axle. I would venture a guess that your trailer brakes are set too high. If those shitty tires came off the rear, seeing you change the other tire there are no brakes. They sure look like they are under inflated. I would go up even one more size to 225 75R 15. The 225 is the tread width the 75 is the percent of tread width in sidewall height, and the 15 is the rim size. Check your braking controller on the truck. I might go as high as 235. As a kid, we had a 20 foot sheep trailer that we went to fairs every weekend all over Ontario. We were hauling about 5000 pounds of life weight plus the trailer too. We had the other style of trailer tire that were hollow rim type. I also recommend to change all 4 tires and have them match up. You may still have some grief with two different size tires on your trailer.

the d is not for the load rating it just the way it was constructed. if you get the 205/75/R14 vs the 205/75/D14 the R14 is better constructed and has more banding.

Anyone with a John Deere shirt is not someone you should listen to about fixing or repairing stuff... From the get go you can tell he's comparing a bias ply tire to radial. Bias-ply tires offer more stability in the sidewall and can help keep trailers from rocking back and forth. They could help prevent an improperly loaded trailer from having a dangerous wobble or sway. They're also cheaper than radials so of course manufactures will use them. Buying or not equiping a trailer with a spare is on you.

I am a little late but the D13 ment it was a 13 inch rim and a bias ply tire. The other is an R for radial. If the tires were radials they would not have had that problem. The radials are wider to. The old tires said right on them load range C. That is a 8 ply tire. Load range E is a 10 ply tire. But the big thing is that radials are a far better all around tire. And load E may be smart to.

I think the letter (s) before the rim size represent a tires use designation. Such as p is passenger, Lt is light truck, st is trailer. I think a d is temporary use (Spare tire).

The only thing I can comment on is that the …D15 is a bias ply tire and the …R15 Is a radial. You will get much better wear out of the radial. How do I know this? I had the same issue with my trailer…. 😢

I dont know about the first tire but if it doesnt say st then the size it's not a trailer tire st stands for "speciality trailer"

ST trailer tires are the biggest rip off in the tire world. They don't have to be DOT rated since they're only for trailers, not anything that would be carrying a human. They're marked ST not because they're special, but to make sure you don't put them on a car or truck. 80 to 90% of the ST tires out there aren't worth the money. You can find good ST tires, but they're rare.

That trailer manufacturer only cares about profit and uses the cheapest tires they can buy. Wonder what else have they cut corners on. I would buy a different brand next time.

Do away with all trailer tires. Replace with lite duty truck tires fine the highest weight tire you can find .Air Stream did this years ago

Goodride tires are the worst of the worst Chinese tires. My Goodride tires developed a goiter (a sidewall bubble delam) sitting in the sun for two days. Went bald in the middle and cracked down to the cords after two years and about 3000 miles.

Almost all trailer mfg's put China bombs on their trailers to save money. When they are building thousands of trailers a year it adds up. I always replace the tires as soon as I can with either a Goodyear Endurance or a Carlisle tire.

If your hitch is not at the right height and or your load is not placed right you will be sliding one or the other axle wearing down the side wall and as far as the blocks are concerned they are very weak ex specially on there end if you have to use lay a piece of plywood then lay the block with the holes facing up and down then place another piece or pieces of wood they are 2 or 3 times stronger than the way you put it on end I do understand being in a hurry and you did have loader underneath also which is the way I would have done it

A lot of trailer manufacturers sell trailers with "transport tires" on them. Meaning they're there to get the trailer to the dealer or the buyer and then it's their responsibility to put "using" tires on them. If you bought it from a retail dealer he should have put decent tires on it. Of course he might be selling them cheaper by not putting decent tires on it.

now you just need you some impact sockets for that 1/2" drive... don't ask how I know this 😎😎

I had the same problem with two sets of tires on a toyhauler. I've come to the conclusion that all trailer tires are Junk ! I put 10 ply truck tires on it 4 years ago, problem solved, they still look like new. I'll never buy another ST trailer tire.

They are imported from china the dealers buy them by the trailer load they come flat as a pancake some times they have to be laid in the sun to warm the rubber up so they can be mounted and inflated. The tire and wheel use to cost the dealer about 25:00.each.it should be against the law to put them on a trailer.

Goodride tires are Chinese made tires. Chinese made tires are well known to be of poor quality. On the tires is the date they were made. Never buy tires more than 6 months old. This will give you the maximum life of the tire. Tires expire at 6 years of age.

That is under-inflation when the outside wears.

A 205 is too small for that trailer. You should be running 225/75r15 10 ply tires if you're hauling a 5k lb. tractor. I have 5 trailers and it's always better and safer to go overkill.

Yes D is the load rating which is an 8 ply tire. I run 225-75-15 which is a 10 ply tire and has a lot higher load rating.

Cars and trucks are sold without spare tire.

My 2019 Dodge caravan did not come with a spare or a jack. It did come with a can of fix a flat. Totally useless in my opinion. I checked with a Dodge dealer and they wanted almost $500.00 for what they called a spare tire kit. I assume by kit it means tire, wheel, and jack, (but not sure). I'm looking for a used "kit". Trailer manufacturers (RV and cargo) seem to be notorious for putting crummy tires on trailers. I heard them called "just enough to get off of the dealers' lot.

some cars come without a spare tire..Corvettes would have to carry two different size tires as spares because they have different size tires in the front than the back..Fiat 500, no spare either which is one of the reasons I didn’t buy one, I almost did though why shouldn’t the tires be skinny? They’re not steering or driving. They are just rolling.. the skinnier a tire is, the less prone it is to hydroplaning, Because there’s more pressure per square inch at the road contact patch.. Just look at the comparison between water skis and an ice skate…The water skis right on top of the water because they are wide. You could never ski with ice skates because they cut through, they are skinnier. This is true with snow tires. Skinnier is better your tires wore out on the outsides-they were under inflated a lot tires and anything actually, the smaller it is, the stronger it is generally you were within 10% of the maximum load with your tires on your trailer when it was loaded with your tractor. I think getting over 3000 miles on a set of underinflated tires with that much weight is doing pretty good. you are fortunate to not have had a blowout.. The load range just means that your tires were not overloaded- barely..not much safety margin…The letter A on the sidewall of the tire means it has a higher capacity than a tire with the letter B. And a B rated tire can carry a larger load than a tire rated with a C, and so on.. trailers do not have sophisticated suspension or steering. A lot of times when you’re making a turn or backing in and turning, those trailer tires are being ripped/dragged sideways.. tires are a modern day miracle invention.. Tires go through hell and are not appreciated that much. tires on a commercial airliner really get tortured. They go from sub zero temperatures in the sky, to very high temperatures in the summer on sunbaked blacktop runways… and they get slammed on the ground you can hear them screaming as they contact the runway on landings. Those tires are not owned by the airplane owner. They are leased to the airplanes owner.. tires are stamped with a date code.. it’s required by the DOT, department of transportation in case there is a recall. I don’t know if they’ve change the code, but the last two numbers in the code were the year the tire was made, and the two numbers in front of the last two numbers are the week of the year the tire was made… as with anything, the more you spend on the tires, the better the quality is. I would not buy Cheap tires for anything I own That rides or drives on public highways. I would buy a Cheap tire for my wheelbarrow, or for my lawn tractor, but not for my truck, or my trailer or motorcycles.. expensive tires do not generally last longer. They just cost more because of the quality materials they use.. When it comes to speed ratings, the S or the H rated tires I have the lower speed ratings, the V and the Z rated tires are for higher speeds, above 149 miles an hour. These tires are generally much stiffer especially in the sidewalls but they have less tread depth then a tire rated at S or H. And H rated tires may have twice the tread depth of a Z rated tire, and cost 25 to 50% less than an V or Z rated tire. The reason a tire gets a V or Z speed rating, is the fact that it has less tread. That means less weight pulling on the tire which will make the tire grow at those very high speeds. If the tire has more bulk pulling on it at those high speeds, the tire will flex more and overheat from centrifugal force. That’s why you get much less tread with a V or Z rated tire.If you don’t drive over 100 miles an hour every day, you’ll get tires that will last longer and they are less expensive if you buy H rated tires instead of Z or V rated tires, you will also get a softer ride out of an H rated tire because it does not have the stiff carcass/sidewalls.. if you get a flat tire/puncture with a Z or V rated tire, any reputable tire store will not plug that tire. Because it is actually illegal in Pennsylvania at least to plug a Z or V rated tire. The thought there is, that a tire that has been punctured may have belt damage, and could fail at the speeds the tire is rated for.Since I never go near 100 miles an hour on my motorcycles or my cars or trucks, I always buy H rated tires if I have a choice over V or Z rated tires because I have more rubber-deeper tread, the tires are less expensive, and they give a much better ride, and they last longer

D stands for bias ply, R equals radial

I always run at least 10 ply radials on my dump trailer. Also they never come with spares and when your backing it up it rubs the tread off of the tires more but those new ones should hold up better than those other cheap chinese ones it came with

You definitely need to load the trailer weight right will destroy any tire you put on your trailer.

Block doesn't hold load like that

block is wrong way tho

D is for bias tire n not radial and maybe ya have a bad axle most likely .

What pressure do you run in the tyres?

Weight rating doesn't have anything to do with tread wear that's all in the rubber compound I hate to break your heart but all trailer tires are garbage these days they're all Chinese (most all tires are made in China actually) but never the less good luck finding good trailer tires I haul a skid steer and forestry mulcher I consider trailer tires a consumable at this point ive tried all kinds of brands ive got alot heavier trailer ive switched to 14 ply that's been the best so far but still not great I go through a set about every year with a blowout here and there

old tire is 4 ply new tire 8ply

The trailer company’s save money by using theirs China Bombs. It’s very prevalent in campers too.

I'm a minute int to this video... And can see you have an over load problem with the tractor and buy the looks of the tire.. a suspension problem. ,,Bushings worn what ever.. heavy truck mechanic..trailer is only as good as the loads put in it and the maintenance and common what that trailer and tires you put on it..RU-vid is full of boo hoos what the heck I been ripped off. ..give me a break ! .

Put the new ones in front, cause the rear ones will catch all the nails that the front ones kick up.

Very interesting Brock. I love reading the comments because TOGETHER we all pretty smart!! These videos that "bring us all together" are awesome!!

I didn't have time to read all your comments but I'm sure somebody has told you that using concrete blocks like that is not safe. And if you run your tires low anytime it will ruin the tire. You don't have to run them low all the time. And I'm sure by now you've noticed that the new tires wore down to the same tread as the old tires. Real fast. Just my 72 years of experience trying to keep you safe. I don't want to see you crushed underneath the trailer for using concrete blocks to hold it up as you did on this one if you notice houses are not built with blocks standing in to end like that there's a reason. Stay safe young Feller

If all of the tires were the same when you bought it, and only two wore out, I would consider that maybe there was some issue with the axle alignment. If the tires continue to wear oddly in the same position the old ones did, I would definitely investigate the axles. I'm not an expert, just trying to use some logic here.

i'm no tire expert but I just had a similar experience with my boat trailer tires. The tires that came with the trailer were a bias ply. I was getting wear on the inside and outside and like you check the air pressure constantly. I was advised to switch to a radial tire which is better for highway use and can haul more weight. Hope this helps.

When you buy a new trailer they just give you tires to get it off their lot. The ply rating is just that. They are not the actual amount of plies as stated. It is just a rating they refer too. It is based on load stats only. All tires are unfortunately made in China. If you can change to a 16 inch tire then you will have a good tire. The 16 inch tires will last a long time on a trailer. Speak to a reputable tire dealer for more info.

When you buy Chinese 💩 you get Chinese 💩 most trailers at box stores come cheaply made and 💩 tires

Center block use in the order of it standing is deadly, I don't recommend it, lay it flat and stack two on top of each other....

From the wear pattern I would say you need to increase the tire pressure. Too much air; tire wears in the center. Too little air; tire wears on the shoulders.

Good info Brock. We upgraded the tires on our RV because the original were horrible. We went with an E load range tire and they’re doing much better. -Chad #purplecollarlife

I was on my Kubota all day (sorry Brock!), so just now seeing this. Yes, OEM trailer tires are garbage. I put new tires on a 14K trailer I just sold and thought I was doing something. The guy who bought it ran a landscape business and he said the first thing he was going to do was put some good tires on it!! Wait, what? I can't remember exactly what he said, but basically bias tires with as many plies as possible. Oh, and rotate tires on a multiple axle trailer often....that and tire pressure will help with tread life.

What pressure were you running them at? Wear pattern indicates an under pressure tire. If you’re replacing a load range D with another load range D, you aren’t getting anything more. The load range is the same.

Most trailer companies put the cheapest tires on them .Put 10 ply 15" trailer tires on it. I have had the same thing with my trailers.

Will offer advise at the end of comment on tires from what I learned June 2023. First, not to scold you on the concrete blocks, but anybody watching should take into account here, the comment by bucklure later on here is correct. Concrete blocks are not designed to be strong turned up like you did -their strength is achieved ONLY when laid out with the holes facing up and down. With your blocks turned up as you did, obviously it will hold some weight BUT how much? Imagine if you laid the rail of the trailer into the center of the block itself. That is the weakest piece of it! At some light amount of weight that part of the block will fail without warning and the entire block will crumble. You had the block there for extra safety, and with your trailer rail laid entirely across it - not just depressing the center that I expressed concern about - you were ok with your tractor providing the primary jacking lift point. But imagine if the trailer was not resting on the block itself, perhaps positioned several inches above, and suddenly it dropped. Would be like a karate chop on the weak part of the block! It would split instantly. My point is to understand the reasoning behind the shape of concrete blocks. Large chunks of hard wood are a more secure safety option. It's hard for most people to do the extra work, but think ahead about the forces being applied - or COULD be applied - and take measures for worst case scenario. TIRES. Good points about the tires. I had a failure of a supposedly 'almost new' tire on an older F350 this past weekend. Front end suddenly began shaking violently on I 75. Turned out to be a broken belt. Made the tire out of round in an instant, like rolling an egg down the interstate. On a 'new old stock' BF Goodrich Commercial TA heavy duty truck 'tar' I bought off eBay a couple years ago, with only about 5000 miles put on it by me. This truck sees limited use. Thought it was a great deal on a great tire. Well I forgot to ask about the DOT Code before purchase. Turns out it was several years old. Turns out I don't so know much. Learning every day. Equipment trailer. I was hauling a car on an equipment trailer when I had the broken belt. Two 3500 axles like yours. Should be fine, right? After the broken belt scare, I asked the tire man to look at my trailer tires. Cheap tires that have been on the trailer since it was new in 2016. Although cheap made in you-know-where, they have amazingly held up pretty well. The trailer is not used often though. Tire man is an older experienced man who has seen many, many tires and failures. I asked what tires he would advise for this trailer. Guess what? NOT a trailer tire at all. He says forget that cheap junk and go with a "LIGHT TRUCK TAR" Be sure to check the DOT codes on used tires and new, and load and ply ratings. He likes 10 ply minimum. He explained about sidewall strength and the lack of it on some tars. Experience counts, right? I looked around for some tar. : )

Goodyear Marathon ST225/75/15 they aren’t cheap but they should last. I’ve always overinflated my trailer tires by 5 lbs cold. If they are going to be used at road speeds they need to be balanced. I didn’t hear you say the brand name of the tire. They look like they are Goodyear. Goodyear should give you some warranty credit on those tires.

Great topic. I got a 2019 14k GVWR Dexter twin axle trailer new. For all this time it was fine. Light hauling, 55 horse tractor. However once I got a skid steer, I looked at those tires more closely. I’m not happy with the weight rating. It looks like they just slapped whatever onto the trailer just to get it sold. 🤔

A lot of new cars come without spares these days. I don't know what brand trailer you purchased, but the cheaper trailers come with cheaper equipment.

It's the cornering with the weight and tire pressure. When you max out the tire it wears faster... move up to a 14k axle and down grade it...

I do not know why they did not come with spare tires.

If a tire is designated "Trailer use only" you can absolutely bet it's the biggest piece of S**T they can manufacture. I've seen travel trailers, horse trailers, enclosed car trailers and utility trailers suffer lots of dollars worth of damage when the tread peels off going highway speeds and beats the underside apart or rips off the fender and black up the side of the trailer. Use a radial tire with a load rating for the purpose of the trailer and you will be money ahead in the long run. Thanks Brock I enjoy your channel

Thanks for bringing this up...you can't assume anything anymore , ......good input from the other subscribers too ! pc

have you/ how often do you/ grease your trailer wheel bearings? do you have a video planned for that? I need to do mine, used to pay trailer place but it got really expensive every year.... want to buy a good battery grease gun and do it myself.

the wider the tire the more weight you can haul the higher the pressure rating the more weight you can haul

Actually cars come with no spare tire, u get charged for a spare tire.

love your videos, if you had to do it over again would you buy a bigger tractor or would you stay with the size of tractor you currently own? I am in the market for a tractor but I haven't decided on a size yet

This is great info since I'm looking at getting a new trailer! Thanks for sharing Brock!

Good subject to talk about thank you for keeping us informed