They Changed Climbing Forever 

How does he feel about the more Parkour style of climbing?

Doug, with gear and online trainings being so accessible, do you see newbies making mistakes or not taking long enough to learn before moving on to harder stuff (climbing in a gym to sport climbing to leading to trad)

I recently introduced my kids 18, 20 year old kids to this movie. Even though I am not a climber, we enjoyed it after visiting a rock climbing gym. The movie is a classic.

I'm blown away by the new Parkour-style dynamics. The moves of climbing keep evolving, and parkour-style is just the latest trend. I watch new comp videos to learn them. The upward lunges, all four limbs off the rock, are obvious clickbait. But I am drawn to the quick, often horizontal sequences that are only possible dynamically. You need to move through them quickly. It's the latest way that climbing imitates dance!@@alefaria

I've watched this movie over a hundred times as a teenager it had a big impact on how I thought about climbing. Thanks so much!

Got to see Dead & Co's "last" show in July. Hopelessly addicted since the 60s.

?? Dwayne Johnson. ? And I do like the guy ??

@@philipbentley9850 The video sais it's "Dedicated to the rock" at the start. 😂👍

Ryan and I have a few ideas for short, How Not 2 videos. Whenever we actually get together to make some. Maybe I could post another less-old video, "Go Wild Outside Las Vegas." There's some climbing at Red Rocks, and the rest of it is enjoying running around the desert. I forget at the moment what Ryan called them, but we shot two vids, an hour plus half an hour, of telling stories about climbing history.

I recall hardly any difficult clients. Maybe a couple of surgeons. Seems to take a lot of ego to be one... Fearful, though -- oh yeah! Fear of heights is ALMOST universal. The very few clients without it were the ones who worried me the most. I found myself following around behind them spotting ruthlessly. Please see my response to "@FrostyBalls01 9 days ago" for some general background. What I did to talk to clients about fear of heights is to model it out of my own experience. Speak from your own experience, of course. Here's how I would say it: "I've climbed the face of Half Dome. But if I go to the summit, the only way I can look over the edge is to get down on my belly and put just my eyes over the edge. Usually with a solid foot jam behind me. That void has power. It sucks!" "Yet to start at the bottom of the wall, tie in and begin leading, clipping into pro, you build up your rational defense against the void. You know from deep experience that the rope will hold you. And the pro will anchor the rope. And your trusty belayer can easily stop any slip. It's a system. Proven to be safer than driving on the freeway. We trust it deeply." Another part of making our whole protection system feel reasonable to climbing students is to take enough time to talk about the rope. Where did it come from in climbing history? Now we have other uses for hemp (wink). Notice that the modern climbing rope is actually THE most high-tech gear we use. Way beyond, say, cams. It's strong, sure. You could hang a pickup truck from one. But the real high tech value of it is its stretch. The US Army researched parachute harnesses and found that forces needed to stay under 2000 pounds (explain that number's relationship to Kn's) or there would start to be injuries to kidneys and backs. Modern climbing ropes stretch so much they do keep ultimate forces below that threshold. Etc, etc.

Thanks so much for your comment, and for teaching to pass it on!

I've done a couple of instructional ones with Ryan, and a couple of longer mostly history talks on this channel. I'm working on a feature-length documentary recently called Finding Flow.. It will be out in the next year, and there will be a sneak preview of the rough cut Nov. 10 at the AAC's Bishop Craggin Classic with the Director Lizzy Fowler.