Hey, quick tip. Use a plate instead of a dumbell. Less horizontal sway and more balanced when you tie it thru the hole in the middle instead of securing a tie around a cylindrical object. This will affect your results because now all you have to worry about is fighting gravity instead of horizontal momentum and imbalance
I'd like to add to this and say spend the 15 bucks on Amazon and buy a loading pin. They have a carabiner hole at the top and are usually a standard diameter to fit most plates. You can most likely clip your block directly to the carabiner on the top and off you go
I mean he did show a clip of him beasting a wide pinch move that he said he couldn't do last time he tried.. but I agree, it would be nice to hear more about real-world results. Quantified numbers are nice, but it's hard to tell how much 5-10 pounds of pinch strength impacts your climbing ability. That being said, he's a V7 climber, I don't think 1 month of pinch training is going to make him magically jump up to V8, so it's difficult to show real world improvements in the way that you probably want to see.
If anything it would make him more efficient at climbing his current V7 proficiency, which would allow him to get closer to V8 sooner because he can train more effectively now.
Even though I did a few V7s before, those routes have zero pinches and really suit my style. There are some V4/5/6s that I couldn't finish because of my weak pinch strength, but now my completion rate of those are higher because of the pinch training.
@@GeekClimber you should do an updated video showing your hangboard and pinch block progress since these videos. Also, it would be interesting to see your progress from the day climbing gyms closed until they reopen since many of us are training these at home much more since we can't climb
When I eventually got the pinching block, I came back to your video again to make sure you got credit for the affiliate link. I love the methodical approach you take. Keep up the great work you do!
So after watching that video I started doing that stuff with a simple makeshift pinch block and weight plates. In the beginnin I could only do the 6 reps with 7.5kg on the right and 10 kg on the left hand. I didn't do it every day, but probably around 10-15 times since the release of your video. As of now I just did the 6 reps routine for three sets with 15kg on each hand and afterwards even completed one set with 17.5kg on each hand. Definitely worth the effort and can easily be done after a round of hangboarding and pull up training. Chalk makes a huge difference for me, as my selfmade block quickly greases up otherwise.
Whoa-epic! You inspired me to train the pinch. Crazy improvement! Funny that I bought Eric’s training book, read it and was lost. 😂 Awesome that you got on call with him, too!
I was super lucky to have a call with Eric, haha. Eric is awesome! You definitely should train the pinch! I can feel a pretty obvious difference after training on it.
Started pinch training two weeks ago and pulling 16 kg on both hands for 10 seconds. Hope to get 18 within two more weeks. Cycling through min edge and pinch protocols plus rings training to be well rounded for outdoor projects.
I taped the weights Plates and I pinch directly on those. You have multiple sizes and it cost you almost nothing if you already have a pair of dumbbells. I don't know why all the people in video make one hand a time. I prefer to do it with both hands at the same time with one weight per hand, having a nice and symmetric posture is much easier this way.
@@mat650 I think they use one weight per hand precisely because it makes balancing harder, with both hands at the same time you don't have to use your core to stabilize yourself as much
@@mkyubeo4867 I have never heard that this exercise is intended to train your core. I think that exercises shouldn't be mixes up just like that. I intend it as a training for fingers and forearms and therefore I prefer to go for symmetry and good posture ad train the core with dedicated exercises.
@@mat650 But consider this: Training only one side engages your abdominals, especially your obliques and they have to work to get you to your symmetric posture. Youre saving time, but its also efficient to get that abdominal workout in as well, it helps alot with climbing where youre never close to a symmetric posture on the wall!
Glad I watched this again. I got the Frictitious holds and was focusing on narrow pinch, whereas I should be trying largest hold to also work on the extensors. Will redo my baseline and start training, again, this weeks. 🙏🤘
There isn't a lot of info about pinch training out there, so I am very glad to team up with coach Horst and Frictitious Climbing for making this video!
I made a training device using weights hanging below an upturned clay flowerpot. Cord goes through the drainage hole and is knotted above the base of the pot. Trains your hand in a different way...most holds in nature aren't like rectangular blocks, but more like a round bump. Hope this helps.
you can also train pinch strength via forearm training with dumbbells, since pinches require a lot forearm strength. It helped me, or at least it seemed like it helped, since i was able to climb harder pinch routes (V5) where i normally struggle.
@@GeekClimber I think they are called finger curls, im not sure whether they are 100% for pinch but they did help me with some big slopy banana holds.
The entire conversation with coach Horst is actually about an hour, but I had to edit it down to a few minutes for the video. Coach Horst is super knowledgeable in climbing!
I think the videochat part would have been more clear with just Hörst's video feed. You seem to have edited your own questions out and it's just you nodding. Otherwise, nice video. Might make one of those blocks myself.
Unfortunately Skype records two feeds and put them side by side by itself. Otherwise an un-cropped feed for some of Eric's demonstration would be nice. Hopefully Skype will roll out better recording features in the future!
I tried out pinch block training and after just one day I was able to do a pinch climb much easier then before. I obviously didn't get any stronger possibly even weaker but I think the pinch block taught me how to pinch harder sort of a mental thing I guess it was really cool
Wow, that was fast to see the results. The mental game is a huge part in climbing. I believe there are climbing books that are dedicated to the mental aspect.
I pulled it from the center initially but Coach Horst recommends pulling it from the side. Your arm is crossed in an angle if you pull it from the center.
I'm curious if you took rest days between pinch training. All other types of high intensity grip training exercises are best done with 1-2 rest days in between
The advice I've seen everywhere is to just climb 2-3 times a week for the first year. I can only climb once per week because of how far away the gym is. What other training can I do to help my climbing without risking injury?
It’s 12cm, 10.5cm, 9cm and 7.5cm, so regardless of your hand size, you will be able to find an optimal pinch to train on. Highly recommend you get one!
I was actually talking about the widths because I have smaller hands and can’t grip everything...you also mentioned they they redesigned your block...what did they change? And if I buy on their site which version am I getting?
Yes those are the 4 kinds of width you can train on. If your hands are small, you can train on the 9cm pinch or the 7.5cm pinch. You will be buying the upgraded version. The main reason for the upgrade is Eric’s advice on training wide pinches.
Hey geek climber I appreciate all your vids and particularly have used this one and a few others to help design my ideal training program but I had one question. How many times per week were you training your pinches for this video? It comes off as though you train them every day but that doesn’t seem ideal. I suck at pinches as well and am hoping to include this in my training 2 or 3 times per week. Do you have any advice?
hold one in your hand and you will understand. this is the older model. well worth the price and actually a bargain considering the variety of widths. we carry several pinch blocks in my gym, but frictious does it all at a fraction on the price. super happy with the product.
I've been stupid and bought a metal pinch block for like $42, lol. Just get a piece of wood that gives you like 2.75 - 3 inches (roughly 7 - 7.5 centimeters) of width to pinch, screw something in the other end you aren't pinching to attach a carabiner to, and get some rope. You could do the same with something that's like a hub-style pinch gripper as well if you want: www.roguefitness.com/hub-style-pinch-gripper
Just so you know I have standards for promoting products in my channel. I turned down a lot of easy money like promoting "skillshare", "squarespace" etc. This product is a pinch block that is going to make you stronger in climbing. What are you complaining about?
Man, I’m going to start making pinch blocks and selling them.. A wooden block with a hole in it and a cord that goes through the whole. Check. $20 please
@@GeekClimber thanks bro i looked on there website and its sold out that not a banger but i looked up elsewhere and i cant find it that sucks for me :v
Do you still train the pinch or was this a one time deal? I’ve heard training pinch can increase the strength in all other grips. Did you experience anything like this?
@@GeekClimber "if you have the time". I just bought a piece of square wood at a hardware store and used a saw to cut off a piece. I then use a belt loop to "attach" my weight plates to it and depending on orientation I have 3 different widths available on the block. Took about 5 minutes to build. But it seems mr. hoerst recommends just using a wide grip anyway.
awesome videos, would you ever do a video on how you started your channel, came up with ideas for interesting and educational videos, and how you collaborate with others?? I want to start myself but have no idea where to begin as I enjoy doing so many things
Thanks for letting me know you are interested in this topic! Let me think about this. I always thought people are just interested in videos about how to become a better climber.
@@GeekClimber I'm personally very impressed in how you've grown your channel and I'd imagine a lot of people are apprehensive about starting their own, even if they really want to.
Well, two birds with one stone from this video. First, training with a pinch block will help with pinchers and the extensor muscles. Second, my wife will stop asking me what I'm going to do with these random 2x and 1x4 cuts I have in my woodshed. HERE, TAKE MY LIKE!
2ossy I bet he will do after this! :) but there is a difference between training for climbing and climbing, just like practicing a musical instrument and playing a performance