I don't believe this was mentioned in the video, my apologies if it was, but something to note is this battery is not compliant with FAA lithium ion battery regulations. If you do fly with camera gear, batteries under 100Wh, or if you don't mind getting airline approval 101-160Wh per battery are going to be the largest capacities allowed on commercial flights. It is something I deal with all the time at airports and would hate for someone to get rejected because they didn't know these requirements.
@@KeeganHanksyeah but it did sound like he was saying it, but then again in a pinch maybe but in a professional set I'd just have everything on the plate as again it's easier and faster to pull and swap battery. But yeah maybe in a pinch, but then again it'll be cheaper to buy a normal 200w battery
The built-in power meter is brilliant, because it will always be facing outwards and be easily readable if you want a quick check of how much rig runtime you have left. Now make in a 300Wh capacity, with TRUE USB-PD EPR, SmallRig! Let's see you cram some 5V48A circuitry in there lol.
5 месяцев назад
USB-PD is capped at 5A - to have 240W it uses 48V 5A not 5V 48A - connectors and cables would have to be insanely thick
That was my immediate thought too. Some materials hold up well and are ok-ish even after 20 years. Others... turn into goo after only two years. Yikes.
True. It has gotten a lot better though. The sex toy industry has caused a major push in perfecting the exact materials and manufacturing process of silicone on hard plastics...
cmon, it's way too expensive. You got it for free but if you had to buy it you would probably think twice. Fun fact: SR makes affordable accessories but expensive batteries.
i dont want to recable everything when swapping batteries so I'd rather use a proper plate with all the ports and just a cheaper 200wh batterie from patona etc
I have the 99 and its brilliant - my whole rig runs from it for a good couple of hours including the Ninja Ultra, Lumix S5iix and also charges my PDMovie Lidar as well - I'll definitely look at this one as a backup!
It is probably worth mentioning that, if I'm not mistaken, a downside of this beauty is that it can't board a plane, the limit is 160Wh, ain't it? Is a non-signature version available? Nothing against Caleb, I just don't like my stuff signed by a creator (especially if I don't follow them or share their view), I'd rather stick to a brand logo at best. Nice video, nice product!
@@VacMaster1991 From TSA's website "Spare (uninstalled) lithium ion and lithium metal batteries, including power banks and cell phone battery charging cases, must be carried in carry-on baggage only. With airline approval, passengers may also carry up to two spare larger lithium ion batteries (101-160 Wh) or lithium metal batteries (2-8 grams). This size covers the larger after-market extended-life laptop computer batteries and some larger batteries used in professional audio/visual equipment. There is a limit of two spare batteries per person for the larger lithium ion batteries described above (101-160 watt hours per battery. For more information, see the FAA regulations on batteries."
The SmallRig batteries are nice and I’m sure they’re high quality but when they cost 3 times as much as other v mounts, also with screens and USB C and stuff, I can’t justify it. Even if the quality might be a bit better and it might have a few more features but still. (I know they get much pricier when going for the battery titans)
Although it states that it has enough power to run a RED camera, it does not work properly and every RED camera I tried it on ended up shutting down within 2-5 minutes. Bummed because it’s compact and looks clean :/
Probably not enough peak power? There's been something similar in the PC space where you actually need an overspecced power supply because some graphics cards need more than their supposed maximum power for sub-second intervals.
As much as I value objectivity, the deeper I get into technical stuff, and the more I know about it, the more I'm happy to go, 'What? Gerald likes this? And his buddy too? Sold.' I guess that's the point of an 'influencer'? I just didn't think my own engineering objectivity would finally give way to trust.
I travel to Africa a couple times a year, and 99 is all you can legally fly with. (Yes, people have flown with bigger batteries, but it is illegal, and do you want a $400+ battery confiscated? I think not!
Theres always a risk supporting another individual's product (you know of all people how that can go...) But Caleb is awesome. His channel supported likely millions of RU-vid/filmmaker careers with quality information and comparisons consistently, for years on end. I hope he makes a ton from this product! I'm a proud owner of the v99 and 155. Without them, I never would have gotten into vmount batteries. If I got this one, Id probably never want to use it! That cable is so pretty lol.
I have the old 99 and per Caleb's instructions I bought it and it has been AWESOME! Powers my recorder through D-tap and all my recievers through USB-C and even on the longest day it drained to 69% (nice).
the great thing about V Mount batteries.... you can get them pretty cheap used... i will never recommend anyone buying anything camera related new... doesn't matter if personal or commercial... used is absolutely the way to go
Hey there, where can I find information about the SDI converter for the plate you had mentioned? that sounds like an amazing add to the product line, and am interested in that solution!
Yeah that sounds like an awesome module to have built into your rig conveniently on your battery plate. Just did a live event where that would have come in clutch for my rigs that didn't have native sdi, so I didn't have to have a converter secured to the tripod the whole time.
HEEEELLLLLPPPP MEEEE. I have a problem, my VB155 doesn't charge anything It's stucks on 75%. It's just happened today. I'm stressed. Now if i connect a device to the USBC or B port it's show's a 3v output 😢. I don't know if i have to let the battery drown to 0% so that i can see what would happen. PLEASE HELP
Definitely a compelling battery - for Local use, Larger capacity lesser opportunities for hot swap situation, overseas travel can be complicated. - for minimal rigs, rigs with lesser cable. However in a situation where you need to swap the battery, wouldn't want to fumble around changing batteries by unplugging and replugging all the cables to swap battery, more opportunities for cable failure, during peak rush, which is also the reason for a powered battery plate.
I've been using a Neewer 99w Vmount battery for a little while and it is in a similar vein to this battery but I got it for 80 bucks. It has USB c charging and a Dtap output with 8v and 12v output. I could use USB power delivery for my FX3 but i have a Dtap Dummy battery and it makes the cable management easier and I use the USB port to charge the gimbal instead. Smallrig sells a v mount lock that hooks on the bottom of my DJI RS2 plate where the Transmitter is supposed to hook into and I balance that bad boy with the gimbal and it powers the Camera and the Gimbal and the monitor all day for my wedding work. It is truly a miracle how it all comes together. I've also made it a handheld rig with another smallrig v mount lock (They can stick a v mount locking plate on basically anything) and it screws into the side of my cage and it balances out my handle. this new generation of v mount batteries are insane.
6:39 Hahaha, I LOVE how Gerald can hardly contain his excitement but tries to so people don’t think he’s a complete dork :D And yeah, it’s silly, but I 100% get it because I too LOVE when things just happen to fit even when they weren’t meant to.
6% over 24h is kind of a lot… BUT if this battery works the same way as other SmallRig batteries… I have the vb99 and when I don’t use it I press the power button once so the display turns on to show me the percentage and then I press and hold the power button 3+ seconds after the display turns off. And checking the battery a week later, it only drains 3-4%. Without having anything plugged in to the battery, of course. I haven’t tested if the battery also shuts down if I have something plugged in 🤔
Hi Gerald, undoubtedly many good port features, bar as you say the D-Tap via '3 connectors socket cups' for dual orientation. BUT the ACID test for any battery is how good the cells are and whether the unit has smart charging protocols to maximise the total useful number of charge/discharge cycles? This in effect dictates the useful practical life. Do you have a view on this or can you, as a 'tech savvy' reviewer, start to assess real 'value' (ie accounting for effective life performance per unit of cost)? i.e. Almost literally a "bang for buck" score? Sure there will be difficulties assessing any real value metric. Not least because it takes time to conduct multiple charge/discharge cycles and purchase price will vary over time (dealer to dealer and when on/off promotional events like Black Fri). Yet, surely physics is physics and there is enough known science now to determine what sort of fundamental ingredients go into making a really excellent top flight battery. In the absence of any known objective assessment all we have is our own gut instinct and a trust for what we suppose is a quality brand. I have heard many declare brand X as being good but very expensive, thus of questionable value, vs say brand Y that might be more mid-range on cost. But it's hard to really know. I strongly suspect that the cheapest will prove 'cheap' for a reason. Equally the most expensive not always as good as you might expect - considering that you are also paying to support a well known brand's marketing, advertising, influencer support etc to help 'hype' perceptions. I wonder, if NASA made V-mount cells, engineered for maximum life, how they might evolve and what that would tell us about the optimum mix of chemistry/materials/protocols etc given a (presumably) 'cost no object' approach to engineering the finest technically possible. It probably won't ever be best value but there may well be technical insights and learning, pointing up what best value probably looks like? So, I'm sure there are V-mounts where a manufacture has cut corners on the grade of individual internal cells, used cheaper Li-ion doping elements, cut corners on case robustness and/or wiring integrity fundamentals etc . Net result being that many a cheap (bargain basement) V-mount won't stand up to heavy professional type use, won't work nearly as long as other, more expensive options. Also expensive premium batteries where you pay for the brand name. But, which is which???? What do others think? I have heard many say SmallRig's VB family is 'brand X' in my text above i.e. good but very expensive (thus not necessarily good value unless bought on deal). Then again, I just ordered an original SmallRig VB99 on a good discount, presumably as a result of VB99 Pro just being launched.
When you have a usb-c device connected, and you plug in another usb-c device, eg for charging, does it renegotiate all usb-c ports - meaning it will (temporarily shut off the first connected device as well in order to net exceed the max allowed power)?
to be honest vmount/goldmount batteries seem to be a ripoff per se.... this 212 wh battery sells for 440 usd (which in camera batteries is a good deal, dont get me wrong) - a 650wh ebike battery goes for less. both, i am pretty sure, use the same 16500/16340 cells. maybe vmounts have a better (?) bms, but sure enough the biggest difference is the connector.. like redmags vs m.2 ssds.....
I feel cheated that you did not provide testing data. Why would anyone watch this channel from this point on, if you won’t test rolling shutter and dynamic range of this battery? Just because your friend’s picture is on the box? That’s favoritism which now destroys the reputation of your channel. I first became suspicious of you when you presented the prototype Sonosonic A1H, but a full feature video review never materialized, even though you flaunted that it could get a larger sensor via firmware upgrade. I’m so disappointed that I can no longer trust this channel to present a detailed review. Rolling shutter and dynamic range are vital parameters of ANY product I buy-whether it’s sneakers, a blender, tires for my car or even gasoline.
I notice you are running power from your battery to the monitor and to the camera, which also share an HDMI cable. How do you make sure that you don't accidentally damage the HDMI port? I had a wireless HDMI device share a battery with the camera it was connected to, and I ended up frying the wirelss HDMI. Thankfully not the camera. Apparently, power can potentially go down the HDMI, under certain circumstances. Online I found that, at least years back, people were having damaged HDMI ports on their Black Magic cameras due to it. I don't want to risk damaging the HDMI ports on my devices so now I never share batteries between devices that also share an HDMI cable. Perhaps this is overly cautious.
The idea of having a v-mount behind the camera is so ridiculous to me. Anton Bauer has the Titon battery you can easily mount under the camera and it won't ever be in the way. Granted, it doesn't have as much power, but I'm willing to sacrifice a bit of power for a better mounting location. I'd love to hear some alternative views on this.
the huge capacity which is a big advantage could also be a drawback. I think this product is restricted on most airplanes. (max 100Wh). his lens cap fetish moment is priceless xD. there must be a story behind his reaction to this discovered solution 🤔
you don't seem to be too confident about this product. It's a bit obvious that it's a forced ad deal and you don't really know what to say about it...buutt... I guess it is what it is. Keep it up, life sucks, hugs and love, you are cool.
@@patriotbarrow I tried that and it still overheated in a room that wasn’t even hot, and It still did after a V90 card only fix I found so far is the ulanzi fan, got over 2 1/2 hours straight no heat warning
Looks like a good battery for a decent price. The only thing that I don't like is that is has just one big flap on top for all the ports. I would prefer little flaps per port so the rest doesn't fill up with dust or whatever
I'm not sure if you mentioned it but PLEASE what length is the USB-C cable you're using for PD for the Sony? I'm using the 12-24" coiled one but there's too much tension on the ends for my liking, and I've also ordered too short in the past, but yours is perfect. Is it the 18" or 24" dual right angle?
I thought about buying the 99Wh smallrig v-mount but the price seemes way to high for what it does. I then realised i can do all the stuff with my way cheaper anker powerbank and a usb-PD to 12v barreljack adapter. Anker Prime 200 has 72Wh with two 100w usb-c ports and a usb-a for 100 bucks and it even has a display to show all the stats
The SmallRig batteries, and their v-mount adapter, has quickly become the favorite addition to my FX3/FX30 rigs. I bought the original ones right before the pro versions came out and despite lacking the intelligent screen information, their size makes them my go to. I still use Core batteries with my gimbal rig, since the time-remaining information is so important. I look forward to grabbing a couple of these to use with lights, and of course with monitors and cameras. I only wish they were 26V rather than 18V so lights would have more power. Side note, iFootage is on their third iteration of their monopod (of which I still have the 1st version and love it). I'd hoped they'd be releasing a new tripod at NAB to rival the Sachtler Flowtech. Sirui and YcOnion are doing it. And, looks like Gene (Potatojet) was working with SmallRig on a new quick tripod. iFootage needs to get on it!
Can you charge these with the 600C V-Mount plates? I've had issues finding what's compatible and what's not. I asked Aputure support and they apparently don't even have a comprehensive list nor would share with me which batteries can be charged with their plate on my 600C :/ Lowkey looking for a replacement for my IDX batteries since they don't charge on 600C's battery plate. When I use my IDX batteries, it doesn't charge and the readout, while attempting trying to charge, is always 100%; normal use has normal readout tho. Anyways, thanks for the vid!
Hi Gerald, any help would be nice. I have the VB99, power my GH5 via dtap and dummy battery. All fine there. Then I have the Feelworld F5 ProX. This one is powered via USB C. As soon as the usb is in I have a few seconds to turn on the monitor from standby, otherwise the VB99 stops sending any power and the monitor is no more in standby. Solution is to unplug and replug the usb and quickly turn on the monitor so it stays on. But if I turn it off again it will take a few seconds and the standby led will just turn off. Any idea why? I'm thinking that the dc port (instead of the USB) could be less smart of an output and keep juicing the monitor even in standby, or maybe the VB99 has a feature no matter if usb or dc port that if the port is not sending full power it assumes it should just kill the power altogether for safety. I guess having a battery plate with an on/off switch is one thing but I don't need one. I don't have dc cable, but I'm trying to find one to test and I was hoping maybe you know something about it.
Maybe it's time for me to get one of those. But probably not the 212 as they're too expensive at the moment for my liking. But since Smallrig has smaller models which I started looking into... Let's see.
I’m sure he’s mentioned it but I forget, Gerald uses the A7IV because it’s cheap and only used for stationary shots? Does he have an A7SIII for his mobile shots like the studio visits?
I have a smaller smallrig battery. Video is one of my less-used side hobbies, but this battery is just the most universal powerbank you can get. You can plug pretty much anything into it, because it has all the common voltages and plugs. And if you can 3d print a v-lock for it, it will also look gorgeous. It currently powers my telescope, lol. It's awesome, really. I also powered a TS-100 soldering iron with it... The only thing you can't do with it is to force enable USB output for stupid low-current devices.
Can you review the MC-N10 for Nikon video? It's an interesting product and looks like it'd be interesting for rigging but not a lot of people are talking about it