Here in the Philippines crt's are being sold everywhere literally, most are new old stock. I bought 1 Sony fw900 for just 10 USD lol. Even most people here still uses crt tv and most still prefer them over flat panel displays like leds and lcds because they are easy to repair unlike most flat panel that are disposable.
@@ITGuyinaction most are new old stocks (imported) from Japan and china. You know unused crt's that are being sold. PVM's are not kinda common but Samsung, Aoc, Sony high resolution crt monitors are pretty common in new old stock or used second hands.
I always love to see people repair plastic. Idk what this tv case was made from, but one relatively unknown technique I always try to share for plastic repair is ABS glue. I've found that a lot of electronics plastics (video game consoles, etc.) are made from ABS, so ABS glue is an amazing way to repair them. The glue is made using ABS plastic and acetone. It does exactly what you would expect from a glue with the added benefits of the filler material being ABS just like the host material AND the glue behaving more like a weld than a glue (the acetone in the glue melts the pieces together and the bead of ABS builds up strength in the surrounding area). Hope this helps someone!
The best solution is to get an online UPS that allows you to set the output voltage. You can set it to 110v which will be in spec for both 100v and 120v electronics, and then run everything in your shop off of that.
Super glad to see another pcb board repair on a CRT! I recently got a 14m4u with a cracked neck board and am in the process of doing the same repairs! Really gives me hope that it will work in the end when I get it all buttoned up.
Nice. That's a cool CRT setup. I like how it's got potentiometers instead of regular buttons. Gonna be looking for one of those. What's its model again?
That 125 volt rating has little to do with the input voltage-the FUSE is rated for 125 volts. The power supply may still be different. I suspect that if you had the service manuals, the differences would be fairly obvious.
hey Steve, have messaged you on discord a few times about my experiences with importing from JP. never once had a problem with any of the about 20 monitors mostly PVMs using them here in the US on whatever voltage my outlets give me lol. still use some that i didn't get rid of, going on 6 months.
Hello from London! I was lucky enough to get a Sony Profeel KX 27PS1 monitor, its a beautiful machine but sadly the screen is out so I used the 240 suite on the megadrive. It's out quite a bit! I'm wondering if I'll have the screws inside mine to manually adjust the picture? Also I have I slight fog in the right hand corner of the screen, I'm wondering if a degaussing wand would work? Thanks for your time! Great informative channel! 👍🏻
Hi, I know this isn't directly related to your video. But you are a CRT expert legend and I wanted to ask about washing CRTs with water hoses. I've seen several channels of people finding old CRT monitors and spraying them down with garden hoses to clean them. Then letting it dry out and turning them on. And somehow they still work. Is this actually safe for the electronics inside? I thoughr water is the one thing you are supposed to keep away from electronics. That it could damage it. What are your thoughts?
Hi there! Love watching your video's! I have a question regarding a Sharp CRT that you can maybe help me out with. I'm new to repairing CRT's and haven't got any experience on it, that's why I'm hesitant to try out things I'm uncertain about. I got the TV for free from a relative that wanted to throw it away. It's a Sharp DV-3760S and the only thing it did when plugged in was that the stand-by light lit up. After taking off the back cover I noticed that there were no capacitors that were clearly busted, they all looked fine. After a while I noticed a small potentiometer that said '110V' on it. I thought what the heck, gave it a few spins with a screwdriver, and boom I heard the high pitched sound that CRT's are known for (I guess it's the high voltage sound? not sure). The TV lit up for a fraction of a second and then shut off again. After a while I got it to work for a longer period of time, by turning up the potentiometer all the way until the high pitched sound came on, then immediately turning it back a quarter of a notch or so which kept the TV running. The problem is that when I keep the potentiometer on the setting that keeps it running, it won't start up from the standby mode. It seems that it isn't getting enough voltage then. Turning it up and turning it down immediately when the noise is heard is the only way to get it up and running at the moment. But then of course I cannot replace the cover and the TV cannot be used in a normal way. I don't think it is financially viable to repair the TV since I could pick up another one second-hand for a tenner. However, I think it is a shame to throw away a device that I know and have seen can work well. Do you perhaps have some tips for me to get the TV working again?
That's quite simple. They produced at those times specialized chips being responsible for generating all menus and quite often for remote control/buttons in tv (in one chip). They had analogue pins (output of digital/analogue converter) for values like contrast, lightness etc. and they also controlled tuners (frequency). I don't think they were programmable (perhaps only once in factory etc or perhaps it was just "fixed" structure). From perspective ex. of electronic engineer who wanted to use such a chip in his own project, he didn't had any influence on anything (I mean he wasn't able to change ex. font, colour, nothing).
@@thetechboyorg It depends about what exactly you ask. Perhaps you should search for old schematic diagrams of old tv-sets. Then you will easily find those chips and you can search for their specifications. It might be challenging after so many years but I guess you should find something. Regards
why not just get a CRT from the thrift store? there is literally no difference. Here in my country CRTs are still widely used, and you can also find them very cheap, often for $10 or less. And they also have a SCART input, which is RGB of course. I see no reason why someone would get a monitor for $275. It's crazy, plus that could literally be spent on say, a mid-range phone or uhh, maybe to improve your retro collection in another way. Not exactly the smartest purchase, but hey, you got the PVM working at least
PVM's are much more high quality than your average thrift store CRT-television. More inputs, more adjustments, takes in all kind of signals (PAL/NTSC/SECAM and even progressive) and are much more robust and made to last. And they do have the best possible CRT image quality, because they are meant for professional use where color accuracy is everything. Also higher resolution than cheap televisions. For normal "retro corner" use the $10 TV's are fine, especially if you find a higher end model with an Trinitron / Diamondtron tube or something like that. And with RGB-input of course, or at least S-video. But in the US that's not always the case, only RF and Composite on cheaper models. Me living in PAL-land am fortunate to have the luxury of a SCART in almost every TV-set made in 90s or 2000s. Hideous connector, but provides the glorious RGB goodness. But if you're truly passionate about your CRT's then PVM is the way to go, even with that high of a price tag. I'd rather buy a $300 CRT than a $300 phone any day. Fortunately I don't have room for many more CRT's, so I don't have to think about that.
