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The recurring joke with Larry, "would you whip on that?" and "I wouldn't go up there," is probably my favorite part of the channel now.

I didn't have to watch the video to know that you are correct. I certainly do not have whatever piece of climbing gear you are featuring. I still want to see it break, though.

We use UFO´s and UFORings´s on our Czech sandstone, but they are strongly disliked by traditional climbers here, because they are making some routes too safe to climb (which means too easy to climb)...

Glad you are in the human testing phase, looking forward to more sketchy shit in the future!

I have used them a bunch (from Germany) and also whipped on them. Your results pretty much reflect my experience / presumptions: absolutly bomber in a (slightly) v-shaped crack especially with the biger sizes but not trustworthy in -horizontal- parallel cracks. I end up using them instead of monkey fists (which don't work lol) in wide placements, I think of them more like huge nuts than cams, really.

Well, in Saxony, you can't use cams. So knots or this are your only options. Maybe that's why I have absolutely no issue with the idea of whipping on these. It's what I'm used to. When I climb in hard rock I have to skip every second ring because I don't have enough expresses for those darn rings every two meters.

I found this entertaining and educational. 9 out of 10, would watch you whip on sketchy sh!t.

Finally you tested them, I've been waiting for a long time :)

They have the string on top so you can just hang in higher anchor above them( or pul on that) and get out the UFOS you whipped on. We once tested how much bomber UFO holds in pull. Basically four big guys hanging on it each on the next ones harness. Then one 13 year old kid pulled it out from toprope. Supergood feature.

Doesn't really work in parallel cracks but it's pretty solid in constrictions ! I will never use one because I don't have to but that was quite interesting.

YES!! Keep these oddball test coming!!! Nice to see new gear, techniques and "real life" static scenarios!!

Some notes about ufos and the tests. 1.) In some areas, the ones with rubber are no longer allowed, and they have to be all textile. I have some of each 2.) Placing one-handed definitely takes practice. My best results are placing with the outside sleeve loosely on the core, placing in and pulling the sling so the core slides deeper into the sleeve. With a constriction, it is easier. The big ones in a parallel crack can be super annoying as you have to have the sleeve at the right depth. 3.) They are pretty hard-wearing, but the rock here is so grippy and abrasive that I notice the slings getting very fuzzy very quickly. 4.) Yet to whip on one but I know people who have. depends on the placement if they hold. in a good constriction would whip. well, I guess I've fallen seconding with a ufo as part of the anchor, it moved but didn't pop. 5.) The small ones you had (blue slings) are pretty new, my friend has a set (I just have normal ones), and they are really useful. can feel more bomber than a knot. I wonder if malleable materials do worse in the slow pulls since they deform over time. My friend hung his bodyweight off the smallest ufo placed between his doorframe and the wall but I think his doorframe made a cracking noise from the outward pressure. The biggest UFO chipped my tooth when I was an idiot and bit it's racking biner then dropped it so I could pass it from my outside hand to the inside hand to place in an offwidth. also in desperation, I have tried to fold and ufo over to work like a tricam when I couldn't place anything, this failed. Try racking up with a set of ufos, some slings, and knots, it's surprising how bulky it all is!

Nice to see Bobby again! Thanks for this contribution of human testing. Greetings from México!

Woooooo! Submaximal pro tests! I love getting to see how sketchy gear actually behaves in realistic falls

What a great bonus clip!

I love these videos. I know this video doesn’t apply but, as a RA Level 3 the most difficult thing is getting a new level 1 that doesn’t know anything about climbing to trust the gear. You definitely help. I’m trying to get my hands on some beam clamps. I would love to send them in so you could pull test them. Most of our new guys are terrified to climb with beam clamps.

Tough luck with that bet, Ryan, as I see the German/Czech sandstone community is going strong here :) I have some of those blobs of webbing as well, and place them from time to time here in the Elbe Sandstone area. I find them a nice addition to knots and really trust them in wider, slightly constricting places, where a knot would not be possible.

It was very helpful for me to see the real forces on the pieces when falling. Thanks from Germany!

as far as I know there is no part of Switzerland where you have to use "soft" protection. BUUUUUUUT the part of Germany (and Czechia) where you are not allowed to use is the "Elbe Sandstone Mountains" with the German part being the "Saxon Switzerland" and the Chech part the "Chzech- or Bohemian Switzerland". Kinda confusing. Many parts of hilly or mountainous regions in Germany have the word Schweiz - Switzerland in their name to underscore their geology and topography.

Very interesting bit of kit. I would love to see you test copperheads in the new crack jig

Nice Video! Also wanted to see this coming up. I am using those ones for any size taller than a knot, but smaller than a monkey fists. Really works out great in sandstone areas. You definitely need to build trust on this gear if you use cams. In case your are used to knots in sandstone it is convenient.

Awesome. Never saw these before

killi'n nit bro! Love to see it!

love the last test. i would totally whip on that. (with another piece 3 feet lower)

I don't even climb but I enjoy watching your content!

great to see them tested. I have weghted some with bodyweight und fallen on 2, but only small falls. if placed in a slight constriction they feel bomber. in the parallel crack not so much but still better than a knot

20 seconds in and excited to see UFOs! I've been curious about the bomberness for ages, can be tricky to place, so I hope they hold. The sandstone here is very grippy so maybe if they slip here I don't need to feel too bad

"I'm an expert. I've done this. Once." Totally genius!

Its not čečia, but great test ♥♥

I have a set ufos, and while I haven't whipped, I have rested and fallen on them. The vid supports my gut feeling - bomber in a constriction, sketchy in a parallel crack and useless in a flaring. Thanks for the tests!

Nice, I've been curious about UFOs for a long time! I have just one (I got as a gift), and I rarely place them because it's hard to find the right placement and it is a pain to put it in one handed. Mine doesn't have the rubber, just the textile part, but good to know that in a nice constricting crack it hold pretty well! But not on paralel cracks, so thanks for this information 😁👍🏼

This was interesting for sure!

A friend who's been climbing in Czech republic has an older version with no rubber. I would 100% whip and weirdly, there are a few shallow placements where it may adapt better than a similarly sized cam - mainly because they are less "wide" compared to their size. Also seemed very stable once well tucked in...almost too stable ;)

fascinating unconventional protection, thank you for breaking it!

There are also some rocks in Poland with sandstone ethics (near border with Czechia). I led one route with them but was too scared to test, and route was way below my technical limit.

Fun fact: UFO´s with rubber on the outside are not allowed in Saxon sandstone (Germany).

I higly appreciate testing of more practical scenarios. Bomber placement is bomber placment, but everyone using textile protection would like to know how it works in not ideal placements, like placing UFOs or slings down, in not so constricted crack. I think, thet they usually raise quality of placement to higher level: good knot -> bomber UFO, not a good knot -> decent UFO that will probably hold but I don't want to test it. I mainly use different brand UFOs from Obrworks. The seem a bit lighter and with wider range, but also more constrictable, so they may fail under higher loads.

The bouldering shoe comment at the end caught me off guard! I cracked up!

I'm just glad Larry is there to be the supervising adult

Great tool by the way-if you know how to place it. For the areas where you being left without cams makes your life way easier. Great climbing Peace😊👍😃

im not a climber but from watching many of your videos....i'd whip em all. seems super good enough from your testing.

4:28 "Remember I'm an expert, I've done this ONCE." 😂 gotta start using that one more in conversation

The differences in slow pull and shock loading is wild!

I carry like 8 ufos on my standard rack. Great gear. Especially since i really lack trust in knots. Saxon sandstone (a.k.a. Saxon swiss) is great fun, sadly face climbs are really sketchy since there is hardly any gear to place and rings are either nonexistent or runout like 10m. Totally get the „if your free soloing just do it free solo“ part 😂. But its great for the mind if you can convince yourself that that pice of wrapped up fabric is gonna save your ass. The 20kn test really makes me feel better, since i never place parallel cracks, they also work great on horizontal cracks, if you fiddle a good bit you can even place em tricam style but thats some sketchy stuff.

And I was wondering hot to reuse my old bicycle tires…..I’m going to make one of those anchors. And test it.

I would say the mode of operation is most similar to ballnuts.

nice video

Used them a bit, never invested in some myself and definitely never dared to fall on one! However, a good placement is relatively confidence inspiring just can be hard to place. Traditional sandstone routes are inherently unsafe leading to really having to climb WELL below your onsite limit. There are so many routes which are a bit harder on the sandstone where you can use chalk and are adventureous enough but aren't death routes.

You should look up the heaving mallet hitch. You had the mallet and everything.

Love it! @Ryan, I think I've told you when we met in Lapporten that I would appreciate seeing you testing them. Thanks for this Video. I use them a lot at my local crack in germany. It's called saxonian (Saxony is a state of germany) Switzerland. Maybe that's where you got the idea with a "Switzerland has a spot" from. There are two versions of ufos. With and without rubber. The ones with rubber (as in the video) are technically illegal (yet widely used) since the local climbing rules say: -only textile protection is allowed. Since rubber is not textile its against the rules. I remember big discussions in the community whether they should be allowed or not. Main argument against them was that it makes climbing safer and (mentally) "easier". So now even (mentally) "weaker" climbers can climb routs which before where reserved only for a small elite of "strong" climbers.... Tradition is a wired thing. Thanks for the Video, keep it up.

Epic. Super funny too

Super good enough for me.

Hey guys, I'm anxiously waiting for drop tests simulating factor 1 falls on a not-new knotted dyneena sling. I've seen many guide-persons suggest using this method for abseiling after a multi pitch, the belay device attached to the first segment before the knot. Is this something that has been done already? I usually don't miss a single video 😅

Of course these are really really well made and useful here in czech republic :)

Never seen any of this shit before. LOL. Thanks Ryan and Bobby.

Can we get pull tests of slung 2x4 wedges, and PBR cans both full and empty in the cam crusher?

O neat I have the same pair of shoes

I am quite hopeful with the information Ryan, bobby, and others have worked on and provided;That I'll need to use my WFR training on 1-100x less people. Good for everyone, even if seeing it in 'best' light*. 300lb! Is crazy. Didn't think aid climbing was ~feasible for some people weighing over 1 Kn. Due to health/more so "mass"

I don't know if the rubber really help it or not... It seem to provide just filler for the porous rock to be filled and then become slippery. It could be interesting to REVERSE them, to get the inside fabric on the outside rather than in the inside and have the fabric.

Czech classic climbing....You must come to Turnov or Adršpach and must see!

Idk if you’ll see this or not but as I’m watching videos about tensioning high lines is seems very complicated. I feel like the easy answer of using an electric off road winch or using the tow point of a truck to tension the high line is completely overlooked. Is there a reason people don’t do this? I am inexperienced and may be missing some nuances but it feels like getting that type of tension using a vehicle or off road winch would be so much easier

WAIT I just noticed a Leoni Meadows Jacket, did Bobby work there or something?

RIP your linescale

Rather than all those backups on the tower, you should just dig out under it and have a foam pit to land in.

I just watched your video on Re bolting routes (with Bobby's bleeding nuckles on the thumb nail). I was just wondering what the most common thread size/pitch bolt's use? Just thinking of some ideas that might be able to help, but I'm in UK and metric stuff won't help you much, so need the imperial sizes, please? Thanks

I have used them but I'm back to knots only.

Best part was Bobby's The National Parks reference

I would love to see a full video about equalized anchow with a girth hitch instead of bfk

So it seems like they are strong if placed well but a bit finnicky to place, and like knots don't really come out if you fall on them.

Besides the box you have to protect your scale, have you considered wrapping it in some athletic tape as a backup? Never used UFOs but I can see them not lasting as long as cams. The fabric and rubber can be a lot more sensitive to temperature, moisture, UV etc comparing to a metal cam. With a cam can last you up to 10 years (I think, possibly re-sling), I'm curious how long could these UFOs last.

Using those climbing shoes as a (bad) piece of protection... Makes me want to see you try to use an ATC as a nut, the way they warn you NOT to on the paper that comes with one!

9:45 Was that the bed of the slack snap machine getting busted there?

I think ufo might have been a play on aliens

Petzl rescuesender test, please!

I would like to see a RURP, bashie, can opener tie off tested!!!.....😅

Have you guys done any destruction testing on big bros?

I kinda hate how stable that drop tower structure looks... is it from the gopros' OIS? :D

How much do these weight? I wonder if rubber-coated nuts would be more reliable and safe enough for delicate rock.

Unfortunately I do have a lot of those pieces at my home. Sincerely, your sandstone climbers.

Good thing you have a linescale discount lol

7:00 Bobby: "so I widened up this side of the crack and it just came out....... so if you have a [insert kit name here] stuck in a crack, you just have to make the crack wider"...... yeah, near where I live, we had some guys trying to rescue some stuck bits of kit by opening the crack up with a couple of bottle jacks...... didn't go so well as the whole flake came off the crag!!! There used to be an awesome crack that ran most of a route as well as 2 other routes that went across the face of that flake, and it's now sitting at the bottom of the crag 😭 Some people shouldn't be aloud to go out into nature, they just ruin it for the rest of us. Sadly, none of them were seriously injured....... yet!!

Really interesting test! I know it is outside the scope of this channel, but I'd really like to see an erosion comparison. Well, since that is the argument. That metal can't be used because it erodes the stone too much.... Also... If rubber is allowed.... Wouldn't it be ok to rubberize metal cams and nuts... Ah no wait, stones in monkey fists aren't allowed, so I guess more dangerous gate keeping then....

I guess the middle part needs to be something uncompressable

don’t hurt the poor rock!

I'm just here for the innuendos... 🤷‍♂️👍

Where can I buy these in the States?

Bobby nice helmet that’s a vertex right.

I'm surprised to see you run the rope directly over the linescale instead of adding a carabiner... seems like an expensive piece of gear to whip rope on. I suppose you've gotten a ton of use out of it though.

Yeah, the placement might be key and this placement is hard to achieve

PLEASE WHIP ON THE SHOE PLACEMENT, WE NEED IT IN THE NAME OF SCIENCE.

Use them, love them. They are definitely much safer than using only knots. Which, at a time when metal protection is banned in some crags, helps a lot. A couple of side notes: - Multiple types are still being made. Both with rubber and loop only. The market is in general divided between 2 Czech brands. - Climbing with the use of UFO is quite controversial. Especially among the older generation of climbers. The point is that placing a UFO is significantly easier and more reliable than a knot only, which some say takes away from the first ascenders feel. So when you're talking in the local pub about having climbed this or that route, if you don't mention that you used a UFO but someone saw you with it, it can be an embarrassment that will cost you climbing honour. - Last but not least. Czechia isn't part of Germany. Used to be in 2WW but not anymore. However, they are great neighbours and it's a pleasure to share a lot of climbing crags with them, so I hope that it doesn't offend anyone anymore.

I do I DO :D

F for the LineScale that died for us.

how dangerous is it to stch my own dogbones, and i have about 2,000 lb to drop from about 8" without damaging my floor or the weights, is that adequiteish test?

Thanks for this one. Could you do a DIY version? Roll up some webbing around a sling?

Tower is more fun. More action

The young lady was the high lite of this one , I know we poor feeble men are terrified of fit strong girls .

Id use one, in v’s. Or, ta shim up my washingmachine r sum shit. Good sesh.

Can you please do fall testing on various shock absorbers?