I would love to see a video (or maybe a series) about how to really used 3D printers - what software tools you need, what are the different types of printers, how you go about the process from start to finish. But thanks for this introduction.
Pro-tip with IPA, its re-usable. Store your IPA in a clear glass container, once it starts to get cloudy, put the container in your cure station for about an hour, then let it sit for a couple days. All of the resin will polymerize and settle out to be filtered off, and you are left with crystal clear IPA. This will take you from 7 liters lost per run down to about 1/2 cup. Replenish your loss as you need and that will keep the concentration up.
As you said it is the detail that counts. Bought items like this are way beyond budget so this looks like a good way to go. Thanks for another good one.
I use an FDM or Filament Printer and print and paint most of my buildings as well as the details. That way I get a consistent style of building that I may not be able to buy online. Not everyone wants the hassle of Resin Printers. With Resin you can print finer detail, but there are ways around that.
3D printing brings a whole new dimension to model railroading. I love to build models. Printing parts or small details go a long way into building a fantastic scene. Thanks for this intro, looking forward to your future 3d printing. I know nothing about this tech, so anything you share will be so helpful. I'll start looking into 3d printing as well. Thanks again.
Jimmy I'm so glad that you made this video. I really didn't know a lot about resin printers. And this summer I plan on getting my first 3D filament printer, but now I will have to add a resin printer to my list as well.
I hit thumbs up in the first 10 seconds and could have hit it a few more times during the video. There are some good channels covering 3D printers but you’re covering some unique model RR aspects. Starbucks Cafe Americano for me today.
I can’t say much, as I’m building my own ranges of 3D model railway accessories for British HO & O, European and then US Narrow Gauge in ON30. What I can say, believe me you have not yet seen how far you can actually push the level of precision and detail with 3D printing technology yet…!! My small coal yard office has 3500 individually placed and uniquely textured bricks, use a magnifying glass and you can see the bolts on the drainpipe brackets the wood in the windows is scaled at. .25mm wide... The Shay conversion kit, well that is just looking fabulous ;)
A "lazy employee" left the trash bags out by the dumpster? Nah. The Boss had a party at his house on Saturday night and then, he filled the dumpster at work on Monday morning with empty beer cans, wine boxes, and liquor bottles. The dumpster was full. That is why the hard-working, underpaid employee was forced to leave the trash bags by the side of the dumpster.
I have been looking at different resin printers. Thanks for the additional information. Will have to take a look at this one. Have you had a chance to check out any of the new 6K printers? Supposedly even better detail than the 4K. And the cost is not a lot higher. Keep up the good work!
I've been tempted to buy a 3D printer for a while. It's kinda like me getting my first airbrush. I'm a bit nervous about trying one out. My other hobby is building model cars, and I find myself going on Shapeways to find custom parts for my car builds.
I am interested in having some 2 or 3 in cone roofs made for storage tanks. Also like to have loading arms and tank car racks made. Lastly 40 to 60 foot cooling towers. Could you do this and what is the cost?
I have been considering the purchase of a resin printer, I already have been using FDM printers for man years now, but wondering about the smell generated from resin printers, or at least the ability of the resin printers to contain the smell and filter it. I would appreciate your thoughts on this.
Hi Jimmy, thanks for another great video. I too, am in N scale and my ender 3 filament printer cannot do the detailing a resin printer can clearly do. Do you feel the voxelab is the way to go... at 360 plus resin..you are at 400 bucks to start... if using water resin the Elegco product states and tricks】 After a model is washed, it's better to dry it first before you put it in the curing station. For parts printed with water-washable resin, it's better to use running water to wash and not suitable to clean them using the washing station..... wondering if a wash or cure station is needed as this is another 200 spend. Thanks!!!!
Hey Glenn. So the Voxelab for it's size is the cheapest large format resin printer on the market. They do make a smaller Proxima that is under $200 amzn.to/3ORjX9W and with that, you can use a smaller wash and cure station amzn.to/3KuEHAU . I am going to add all of these questions to my next Q & A, but in short, the wash and cure is not necessary, but it makes things a whole lot easier, DON'T USE RUNNING WATER IN A SINK! It is not safe to wash this resin down the drain. You can wear gloves then slosh the part around in a bucket. I go through A LOT of prints and I use denatured alcohol to clean them, which is $17/gallon so $30+ to fill the washing station. That's where the water washable resin saves me money.
“Then I do green for the dumpster… and a nice driftwood for the palette… then I do a nice brown for the… “🤣🤣🤣 And that’s why many modellers use double sided tape when spray painting small objects. 😂😂😂 I sorry but that looks so funny when you managed to blow the trash cans across the “cardboard” you had them on while trying to paint them. Just a little food for thought next time you print something - it might pay not to trim the scrap off the base before painting so you can use some double sided tape without ruining the final product.
You are correct. My method of disposal is to place the dirty medium in a baking pan and put it out in the sun. The resin cures and once the medium evaporates, it leaves the cured resin which I can safely dispose of.
Interesting as I'm seeing both stories in my quick analysis...Elecgo's product description says "and tricks】 After a model is washed, it's better to dry it first before you put it in the curing station. For parts printed with water-washable resin, it's better to use running water to wash and not suitable to clean them using the washing station." So, not exactly sure given this "advice" which action should be taken... certainly would feel better curing outside but also concerned as to why the company would suggest not to use their wash.
@@glennkopriva899 It is likely alcohol has a higher solvent effect on the resin than water, and therefore water needs more mechanical agitation to clean the parts. Regardless, uncured resin is toxic and should not be dumped down the drain.
