I set the force feedback to 2 and the force to 3 notches, but it seems to me that when I turn the steering wheel it vibrates a little too much but it does this even if I set the force feedback to 1, I don't know if it's a problem or if it should do this
@@late_night_club7217 the wheel isn’t as responsive for drifting, it’s small, paddle shifters make a lot of noise, overheat fan noise, & you have to make great settings to make it good to cut up. The wheel is good only for F1 racing.
Unfortunately, for now, there are not any budget friendly DD wheels for XBOX. If your budget allows it, I would suggest The Fanatec GT DD PRO. It starts around 800 euros. If it is out of your budget, the best option for you would be a belt/gears driven wheelbase.
@53an77 Fanatec without any doubt. From starters, it has 5 nm plus the best part of it is that you can buy the power booster adapter and get it to 8nm. This being said, the CSL DD is only PC compatible, so if you're planning to do console gaming (just xbox for now), the R3 is your choice.
I got this wheel 2nd hand for very cheap. Its my first one so i have nothing to compare it too. When losing control it makes a whining slipping noise from the gears. Is that normal?
I also experienced a problem,it feels so floaty that i dont know,where the limit of the grip,is force feedback is on 3 on the wheel but still feels like air...
Gt7 player. I have a year on the t248. It’s a great entry wheel. Also never had overheating problems on the highest ffb settings. My main complaint with it is I have hard time feeling the limit of the car. It kinda just does the same thing through traction or under steer. Impossible for me to control oversteer with it as well. Maybe it’s a skill issue but after a year I struggle still. Just upgraded Fanatec dd so I guess I’ll find out when it arrives.
New fanatec arrived and holy moly. I can save oversteer / spins and the limit of the car is very noticeable. If you’re serious about racing with a wheel I highly recommend to people who are upgrading to get a direct drive wheel.
When you say the wheel shuts off from overheating, is it just the force feedback that shuts off or the entire wheel? I've never experienced this, although given I'm in the UK temperatures are lower so maybe that's a factor.
I agree with everything you've said, but I rarely use it for more than 40 minutes, so the overheating isn't a big issue for me. The quality isn't good, but I wear gloves, and it feels sturdy for me, so it also isn't a very big deal. The noise doesn't bother me. I got it for 275 USD converted from my currency, and I got it in a bundle with the TH8S shifter. I can't really complain.
my t248 just started having issues from overheating after I bolted it down to frame.. before I just had it clamped down... like it can't mine can't even go 30 minutes of racing before it shuts down.. It's a $400 piece of junk...
This wheel and pedal set is god awful for the price of $400 $250 I could understand but not $400 the pedals while better than most are still pretty bad the throttle is way to light the screws fur adjustment of the pedal faces strip super easy so I can no longer change them 🤦♂️I fixed the throttle by using the clutch spring but now my clutch is terrible 😂 there made out of plastic and don’t feel very durable with lots a wiggle side to side the pedals squeak after a normal amount of use the brake pedal is to light and too stiff so I used the stiffer spring without the foam damper which felt like the right strength but now the pedal has a slight odd rub when you pay attention to the brake so pedals are better than most are still not good but passable now the wheel oh boy this thing is dog shit I mainly like to drive mountain roads drifting through hairpins. And this wheel is good awful for this. Here we go….the wheel is to small the d shape is awkward the paddle shifter is louder than my deaf aunts farts when drifting the force feedback while strong at 3.5nm is very clunky worse than a g29 it’s like the thing has massive notches around the wheel and the middle where your wheel is straight is a massive deadzone for the ffb the wheel feels super cheap and the rotation speed when drifting is the worst of every wheel I’ve ever seen it’s almost like you might as well turn it off to drift since you already have to spin it faster to keep up with the drift that it should naturally do like on a g29 or csl dd etc and that’s not even the worst part the wheels deadzone and terrible choppy force feedback makes it so when you come out of a corner your car swerves by itself and while you try and catch it the wheels deadzone makes it impossible this is not a skill issue it’s purely the wheel just freaking out spinning the car on a straight line because of the ffb deadzone all in all this wheel is great jk lol this thing should stop being offered and be burned to death 💀 I’d rather have a $50 Amazon wheel NO LIKE ACTUALLY then I wouldn’t be expecting anything from it
@@gamingfordopamine send it back honestly and get a t300 they can be found for around that price sometimes but definitely fir only like $50 more and it’s MILES better if you can’t well then enjoy it for now like I had too till my fanatec shipment arrives at least
@@jjimapro9756 Its first wheel and I dont drive in real life. So probably it would be ok for player like me. Its still better than esperanza wheel. Of course for experianced players like you its not, because you see those small details which noobs like me dont notice at all.
@@gamingfordopamine no you will probably notice I mean it’ll still be fun but I’ve never owned a different wheel yet my csl dd was ordered a few days ago and I notice the t248 sucks the middle has a dead zone which feels odd cause the car doesn’t tell you anything when your going straight and what you will definitely notice is that the wheels responsiveness is very slow it’s powerful but slow when you drift a corner and do a transition which is letting go of the wheel to self steer to go around another corner it lags behind by a lot and you’ll just spin out there isn’t really a technique to mitigate this either it just sucks and ruins drifting don’t get me wrong you can drift just not consistently since your kinda just guessing it would honestly be easier with a g29 which is much cheaper and I wouldn’t say I’m experienced I do drive in real life however but not drift and what not but I notice the wheel doesn’t perform well feels really cheap too and the d shape sucks pedals are nice however but that’s the only good thing about it and there not good pedals there just the best comes with the wheel pedals
I don't know your setup, but I've been playing WRC and Dirt Rally for 2 or 3hours with the default control panel setup and steering setup with force 4 bars and FFB1. I haven't had a shutdown due to overheating so far. If your setup is similar to mine, the T248 may be defective. I would suggest you contact support. I like Thrustmaster, but I don't trust their quality control.😅
@@JulianNDL thanks for the recommendation 👍 unfortunately I will need to wait for next summer so i can get those summer break jobs to get the rest of the money i need
@notoryu1311 If you ask me, I’d do that, rather than buying a toy like the T248 and just get frustrated with it. A DD wheel base is worth every money in comparison with these old wheelbases.
I've had my suspicions in regards to the T248 right from the get-go, including the fact that they tried to sell this product to compete with the Logitech G923 at almost the same price range. They tried to make the product look ridiculously flashy in terms of appearance. That alone turned me off and focused my attention towards the T300RS GT as I browse products inside a local retail shop. I'd rather buy a T300RS GT than this. It may be bland looking compared to T248 or G923, but it does a better job overall. Though I bit the bullet and bought a T-GT II instead (since I mostly play GT7), but so far it works like a champ. My friend does have a T300RS GT, and so far he's enjoying it playing GT7 without any issues.
In terms of performance, the T300 is way better than the T248, even buildquality. Yes, the T248 looks somehow better and is flashy, but you only have that wheel! It can't be changed. On the T300 you can get the Sparco wheel or the Formula wheel and it will look way better than the T248. This being said, with today's market, I can't recommend anyone to buy any of these old steering wheels. You can get a DD wheel instead, for about the same price, which is simply on another level, from buildquality to performance.
@JulianNDL I assume you mean the csl dd? Yes, the 2 pedals, wheel, and wheel base are 400. Doesn't include a clutch pedal, a table clamp, or nearly as many buttons. No direct drive setup has the same features, such as 3 pedals and a clamp for under 450.
@anonymous-cy2ms Well, it's like comparing a toy car with shiny buttons with a real one with fewer buttons. :))) it's a joke, dude! Some of you should be serious when comparing an old toyish wheel with a DD wheel.
@@JulianNDL CSL DD 5nm Ready2Race bundle might be a good value for PC users, even for me. But I play GT7 and CSL DD doesn't support PS4/PS5, so I had no choice but to lean towards a GT DD Pro which costs $700 ($800 for a 8nm boost pack). And there's the fact that customs fees in our country are ridiculous. Not to mention there's a certain shop that claimed to be a local distributor/dealer of fanatec products but has a 45% markup (CSL DD was sold here at $570, while GT DD Pro 5nm at $1020). Thrustmaster and Logitech though has a legit local distributor/dealer, and they always stick to the suggested retail price. That's why I decided to buy a T-GT II instead of any direct drive wheel.
@@JulianNDL once Moza has support for PS5, then maybe I'll consider leaning towards a direct drive wheel setup, since there's a local retail shop that sells Logitech, Thrustmaster and MOZA products.
You mention that you don't like the noises made by the shifters and the base, but I didn't hear more than rather light clicks in this recording. I mean, when you wear headphones and there's a bunch of car-noise playing, I doubt most noises from the thing will be noticeable. Unless maybe they resonate through your bones or something...
This is like when you hear strange noises from your car, but you turn up the volume of the music so you don't hear them anymore. That does not make the noise gone or repairs the car. :)) Also, not everyone plays with headphones.
The shifter paddles are loud and annoying I agree but I haven’t heard a sound from my base, especially compared to my old Logitech G29. That thing was a machine gun in comparison
EDIT/UPDATE: I did not have any issues with FFB being weak or not working in WRC 10 - and i just read some instructions for setting up the FFB with WRC 10, and it recommended to set the "overall force" down to 65% on the controller, and 75 in WRC 10. After setting all the settings in both the "control panel" and WRC 10 like it said, i felt like the FFB was much better than what i had before. I have not tried other wheels in maybe 20 years, so i cant really say if this is the best settings, or if this wheel is good or bad compared to other wheels, but at least im happy with it. Original comment: Did you update the firmware before trying it in WRC? I read about some issues with WRC not giving FFB on at least one of the Thrustmaster wheels, but i believe this was about 2 years ago, and someone said that they (Thrustmaster) were working on a fix for it. Im getting this wheelset and the TH8A shifter in a couple of days, and as WRC (not EA WRC) is probably my favorite racing game, im very curious as to whether this is still an issue. The only other wheel i found in this pricerange was the Logitech G923, and the shifter you get for that wheel is so cheap and plasticky that it would completely ruin the immersion. As im not used to driving with a wheel, i think id rather take a lack of FFB than having to deal with the Logitech shifter.
To be fair, losing the FFB happened just a couple of times. I had the same driver. The last time when I used my T248 was about 2 months ago, and it worked perfectly in ACC. Are you playing on Console or on PC? If you're on PC, there are some DD options in the same price range. The Cammus C5 bundle is on sale right now and costs 299 euros. Also, for a bit more, you can get the Fanatec CSL Ready2race bundle, which is 399, which has the option to be upgraded to 8 nm down the line with the booster power adapter. The T248 is more of a toy than of a simracing equipment, and it is not cheap at all for what it offers.
@@JulianNDL Im on PC, and got both on sale. Roughly $255 for the wheel, and $155 for the shifter. If im not satisfied with it, ill just get something more premium later, but a racing rig if first on my list of priorities. I tried having a wheel connected to the table about 20 years ago, and it was not the best experience.
That's a good value, but if I had to pay the MSRP, I'd go with the Moza R3 bundle, as I'm on XBox. Otherwise, I would very cautiously opt for the Fanatek ready 2 race bundle.
@@JulianNDL but where is the feed to populate it coming from? not aware of a way to have the game produce both "viewing windows" while in-game... not claiming to be an expert but you would need to have that feed as a recording at the same time as the Driver's View in order to overlay it...
Mine has that same issue with shutting off force feedback. When it happened I unplugged it and now it’s in this weird limp mode where it moves back and forth like 2 degrees around every 7 seconds. Sometimes it will reset but it takes it like a day to do something. Idk what to do because of the nonexistent customer service.
The thing, with Thrustmaster old software, there is not much to do, in my opinion. I could just suggest uninstalling all Thrustmaster software, reinstalling a fresh driver, and trying to update the wheelbase firmware after this.
Same thing happened to me, your wheel came with a faulty motor. The only way to solve it is yo send it back and hope that the insurance works, mine eas fully replaced and i have to say that the new one feels amazing.
Did you watch the video? I think I was pretty clear why I don't like it. I may add that it all depends on what your purpose with it will be. If you are playing here and there, some racing/arcade games the T248 will do the job like any other wheel. If you're into simracing and like your wheel to give you a minimum level of details about the track, your car the T248 is just a toy and I can't recommend it at all.
@@JulianNDL That should be equal to the TS-PC and TGT 2. I have a 2 T300's and im so fed up with how it overheats. And people keep recommending the T300. Im planning on buying the TGT 2 servo base and using the T300 rim
@aspectic6227 I would recommend you getting a DD wheel if the budget allows it, but yes that’s the equivalent of the TS-PC. I know how infuriating is when the wheelbase overheats and limits FFB, especially on a weak wheelbase like the T300.
@@JulianNDL I mainly play on console and the only DD wheel for now is Fanatec which is way out of budget. Unless Moza comes to Playstation, the TGT 2 is the only wheel I would upgrade to
@@JulianNDL I’ve raced acc for about 1 years,with a g920 that I got from a friend.broken so I have no feedback on certain angles. But I have 6400ish ranking and platinum license on acc. I’m poor so I can’t afford anything else. 2 hours ago,I bought the g923. Probably nothing compared to moza or fanatec. But for me it’s it’s a huge step up. Can’t wait til my daughter goes to bed,so I can try a wheel that’s not 6years old and broken
@thommy86 I can understand and I respect that. I’m answering from a simracer perspective. I’m not that much into racing to being the fastest, but getting the most realistic feeling from my setup. Of course, you can be fast even with a controller, with a G923 or even with the T248, but in terms of feedback, feeling and realism they’re way too far from this. Yes, at the end of the day, the best wheel is the one you can afford and there’s absolutely nothing wrong with that. Enjoy it man to the max.
This video is accurate! There’s barely videos about the T248. My biggest dislikes are the noise and having to throw the wheel to drift. Side note if your T248 ever feel funny sometimes the calibration messes up try closing the game and unplugging your wheel.
Don’t listen to this guy, if you want a rediculously expensive wheel then it might not be for you, but if you’re looking for a solid entry wheel it’s amazing. I’ve never had a problem.
@fraserwalsh9121 I appreciate your opinion, but it looks like you have never tried a DD wheel, not even talking about a high-end one. The T248 is nothing more than a toy, whereas the other DD wheels that I own and talk about are sim racing tools! Yes, the T248 is as good as any other wheel toy, if you play arcade games here and there, on your desk. My video talks about sim racing, and the T248 has nothing to do with simracing.
@@fraserwalsh9121More over, since I did this video, for the price that the T249 costs today (between 280 and 350 euros) you can already get a DD wheel. ;)
@@JulianNDL fair enough I was just saying on behalf of the guy commenting who seemed as if he is looking for their first wheel. I also didn’t realise that it was that expensive, I must have gotten it on sale as mine was the same price as the logitechs.
It all depends on what you are going to play. If you're playing games like NFS, Forza Horizon, or arcade racing games, it is a good option. It is also a good option if you are a console player. If you're into simracing, i'd suggest a DD wheel. A complete DD bundle for 260 euros you will not find, but there are some options if you can spare a little bit more money. Fanatec CSL Ready2race bundle is 399 euro, and you always have the option to buy down the line the boost power adapter so it can offer 8nm torque power. Also, at the moment, you can buy the Cammus C5 bundle for 299 euros.
Dude, if you’re playing games like NFS and other shit arcade games like it, a T248 is good enough! you can actually play really good in NFS with a decent wheel. Yes, it’s a joke compared with simracing games, but if you’re into arcade games, nfs is playable with a toyish wheel.
Right! So, judging by your idea, a mechanic is not a good mechanic if he's not the best driver in the world. Or a literary critic can't comment on others' books if he didn't write any best sellers. Honestly, it makes sense! :)) Fyi, I can drive, I mean, i have so many gameplays on the channel, but if the fact that i'm not the best simdriver in the world makes this toy a better toy, than be it, dude! :)) Buy it and enjoy it to the max. :)
@flowedits5903 No, your point has no sense. A mechanic can drive, of course, but he's not a race driver, like I said he's not the best driver in the world, like a sports commenter is not the best sports player in the world, like an art critique is not an artist, and so on. Stop being ridiculous, dude, and move one. I drive really well, and I bet i drive much better than you, dude. You know what's the difference? I record my worst races and also my best races, whereas you just lose time being ridiculous, acting like you know things about a toy you can't afford. ;)
@@JulianNDLlol first of all I have this toy just recently got it for my birthday and me driving in the Nurburgring nordschelife is better than your driving in a wayy easier track. Secondly some things aren’t comparable like art and decongest make similar comparisons if you want to argue if you can’t don’t waste your time arguing 😉
