This may change how you use your miter saw 

▼ *IMPORTANT DETAILS ABOUT VIDEO:* ▼ Miter saw holding stick: lddy.no/1ir6y *The BEST blades I have ever used are from Ridge Carbide. These are the three I think every shop should have:* - Ridge Carbide 40-tooth table saw combo blade- (use discount code SNWJ10): ridgecarbidetool.com/saw-blades/ridge-super-blades/table-saw-blades/10-ts2000-super-blade.html - Ridge Carbide 80-tooth table saw OR miter saw crosscut/plywood blade (use discount code SNWJ10): ridgecarbidetool.com/collections/miter-radial-saw-blades/products/10-x-80-ar-4-1-5-hk-087-115-rs1000-super-miter - Ridge Carbide 24-tooth table saw rip blade (use discount code SNWJ10): ridgecarbidetool.com/saw-blades/ridge-super-blades/table-saw-blades/10-ts2000-full-kerf-rip-super-blade.html *My Table Saw and Bandsaw are AWSOME! Check them out at Harvey Woodworking Machinery:* www.harveywoodworking.com/ *My hand tool collection includes premium tools from Bridge City Tool Works:* bridgecitytools.com/ *Please help support us by using the link above for a quick look around!* (If you use one of these affiliate links, we may receive a small commission) *Some other useful links:* -Check out our project plans: stumpynubs.com/product-category/plans/ -Instagram: instagram.com/stumpynubs/ -Twitter: twitter.com/StumpyNubs ★SOME OF MY FAVORITE INEXPENSIVE TOOLS★ - #ISOtunes Hearing Protection (Save 10%): bit.ly/3BHYdH7 -123 Blocks: lddy.no/vpij -Mechanical Pencils: amzn.to/2PA7bwK -Lumber pencil: amzn.to/2QtwZjv -Pocket Measuring Tape: amzn.to/2kNTlI9 -Nut/Bolt/Screw Gauge: amzn.to/2CuvxSK -Self-Centering Bits: amzn.to/2xs71UW -Steel Ruler: lddy.no/10mv7 -Center-Finding Ruler: lddy.no/10nak -Bit & Blade Cleaner: amzn.to/2TfvEOI -Narex Chisels: lddy.no/sqm3 -Mini Pull Saw: amzn.to/2UEHBz6 -Shinwa Rulers: lddy.no/zl13 -BOW Featherboards: amzn.to/430ldhv (If you use one of the affiliate links above, we may receive a small commission)

Regarding #4: Never cut a piece that is not long enough to fit between the gap between the fences. When you need to cut a short piece, create an auxiliary fence by putting a board that is wide enough to span the gap between the fences behind the work to be cut. If your work is narrow enough, you can use the backup piece repeatedly without cutting through it.

I agree to all. I’ll use a sacrificial piece long enough to more than bridge the gap. Wide enough not to cut all the way through and thus have an issue with two pieces going askew or flying around. But that hold down tool is cool.

Really great tips, especially love the first one to measure more accurately. That reminds me of something my grandpa would’ve told me back in the day.

Always appreciate your videos and especially your humor. I rewatch the old videos with you and Mustache Mike often when I need a good laugh. Always good information

As always, I appreciate all your videos because I think they are made with the intention of expanding my knowledge and helping me keep all my fingers

Nice tips as always! I've been using the Fastcap stick on the mitre and tablesaw for years now and, yep, it's a great and easy to use holddown.

I absolutely love my holding stick! I got a scare this year from cutting into (not through, thank God!) my fingertip on my table saw, and it made me examine my safety equipment and practices. A featherboard for the table saw and a holding stick for the miter saw are the best investments I have made in my shop.

All excellent suggestions. Your videos are appreciated, even though my miter saw remains virtually unused; by far the least used tool in my shop.

I bought a Million Dollar Stick after watching your previous video about it and makes tricky cuts safe - I've learnt a lot from your channel but this this was a tool I wasn't aware of so many thanks for that 🙂 I often use kerfing cuts without actually thinking about it and I always swap blades when say swapping from rougher framing to finer trim work.

Thank you for the safety tips. I believe hearing old and new safety ideas will always remind you how vulnerable we are around machines, who have no feelings. I'm glad I watched your safety video today because I had forgotten the name of that hold-down stick and the discount code on my new favorite blades.

I got one of the Million Dollar sticks when you showed it a few months ago. Tip #1 about how old timers set the kerf so they have a reference point for measuring where to put the stop is just an amazing tip and I plan to start using it tomorrow!

Thanks. Ordered the push stick and the first tip was gold.

thanks for the tips. I recieved the hold down stick as a gift about a year ago. I think it's the best gift a woodworker can recieve.

Great tips James! I love my ten million dollar stick and I couldn't agree more that it is the best safety device for cutting small parts on the miter saw! The kerf tip was cool and yes they should all be in the manuals!

Thanks for the safety tips! Per your link, just purchased that 3rd hand small parts holder. Ive been often finding myself putting too much risk on my little body members, and this will make it so much more safe!

I didn't know i should clean my table saw blades, worked great. Thanks for saving me money!

Thank you - I'm 65 with 40+ years carpentry - you still taught me something new.

One of the best vids yet, Stump. #1 rule for miter saws is at 3:11. I was amazed at the results when I replaced the stock blade on my saw.

Got myself a $10 Million Stick and I absolutely am sold on it. Before I got it I did a few sketchy (at best) cuts--now when I do cut small pieces my nerves and fingers are at a bit more of an ease. Was just at the FastCap warehouse two days ago and they have them in stock. When I initially looked for them a few months back they were out for a few weeks. James, again thank you for teaching us about safety... I'm new to this craft and very much appreciate your teaching style.

Great tips. I also use the Ridge Carbide thanks to your recommendation, best blades I've ever used.

This might be the most useful tips video I have seen…..and you’ve done some good ones! Thank you.

Thanks Stumpy. One of your best videos ever. I have the same miter saw.

Thanks for the safety reminders and tip on positioning stop blocks.

All great tips. With regards the 2nd, I'm often cutting larger prefinished solid pieces that have a tendency to chip or splinter if I use the way you show. What I do instead is I score the material with a light forward pull, and finish the cut the proper way.

I have been in the business for 40+ years. I still get good info from your videos. Stuff I have not thought of. I now buy Ridge Carbide blades exclusively. Run-out is superior. Cut is excellent when using the right blade for the task.

As far as the small piece that doesn’t bridge the gap, I do use the fork stick, but I also put a longer sacrificial backing piece behind the short piece to support it all the way across the gap. Very safe.

Love the safety tips. Questions for J.H.: Why don’t you have a zero-clearance backer on your miter saw? Wouldn’t that help with small pieces falling in the gap? It should also help with tear-out on the backside. One can add a zero-clearance insert as well.

This video made me happy as the 10 Million Stick was a stocking stuffer for me this year. I had literally just received it in the morning. I don't remember where I saw the 10 Million Stick first, but it was probably here, and I'm glad to finally have one!

All great suggestions. Thank you for sharing these safety tips. Everyone stay safe, warm, happy and healthy. From Henrico County Virginia

Great tips. I think that the first one will save me hours and give far better results for a big project that I have planned for our beach hut in the new year.

Awesome info as always. Thanks James...never stop learning on this channel!

Excellent knowledge about the sliding miter saw cut direction! I'll definitely pass that info along.

I have been using Ridge Carbide blades for years. They are one of the finest blades out there and I have tried a lot of different blades.

James your wisdom far exceeds your years. I hope to meet you one day. I agree with the fork thing to hold smaller pieces but sent mine back. The knobs under it were too hard to grip very well so I just built my own. Great video as always.

Your videos are invaluable and my fingers thank you.

I bought one of those 10 million dollar sticks about this time last year when you talked about it. IMHO you can't mention that tip too much. The radial arm saw tip is pure gold. Thanks!

Excellent tips! Thanks for sharing (and caring).😌

Thank you so much for sharing your expertise and especially safety tips like these. These are all really great tips. Now all I have to do is remember them! 🙂 Thank you for all you do for the woodworking community!

I have used the first tip for several years ever since my Dad gave it to me about 40 years ago with my radial arm saw. Don't have a sliding miter saw but wish I still had my old radial arm saw. I agree that all of these should be in any radial arm saw manual Great video...

Great tips and well appreciated. I have two of the holding sticks. They are invaluable. Thank you for sharing. Have a great day and stay safe.🙂🙂

Even though I have seen many safety videos, watching another one is worth it. Repetition is something that many companies promote in their safety programs.

Wow, measuring from the kerf is a great idea! Thanks for sharing.

thanks for information and with all your videos its good to have these safty reminders to prevent problems before they happen and clue me in on what could happen.

Oh that first tip! Nice. Thanks James! Thumbs up.

I purchased one of those miter saws sticks about a year ago....after watching one of your videos about it.

Such good tips. I'm pretty sure I learned the kerfing technique from watching you years ago when I started in woodworking. Had one scary cut and then I've just always done it ever since. All of my cuts are clean and scare-free. Thanks for providing such great information.

Stumpy, you suggested the Miter Saw Holding Stick in one of your videos a couple of years ago. I think it was called the Million Dollar stick or something like that. I ordered that day. Don’t think it was from Amazon. After using it one time, I never risk my fingers again. It is the best safety device in my shop. Glad you mentioned it again. Hope everyone pays attention.

Safety is always important, especially the Ten Million Dollar Stick, which I use all the time. Keep 'em coming!

The first tip is a great tip that I have never come across before that I will use. All the others I practice as a habit. I remember when I done woodwork at school (many years ago) the woodwork teacher used to say "Keep your workpiece as long as possible as long as possible" which amonst other reasons is also a good safety tip.

Nothing but good ideas coming from you. Thank you.

All are excellent tips. Didn't know about the holding stick.

Great video. I agree w/ all 4 points. Sure wish that manufacturers would add a simple paragraph & picture / graphic about the best technique for cutting using the sliding feature. I learned this by watching more experienced woodworkers. It would been nice to have this explained up front. I’m also a fan of the hold down stick. I’ve found that they’re tough, yet flexible, and do a perfect job holding on to the small piece. They’re also very inexpensive. Much cheaper than a new index finger & thumb!

Bought a Ridge Carbide at a woodwork show long long ago. Great blade. FS Tool right up there as well. Tip to improve the stop block, shamfer the bottom and back edge to compensate for splinters and sawdust.

Excellent tips & suggestions SN! Happy Holidays to you & your family! 👍👍🌲🌲

Thanks for the tips.....really beneficial!

Love the first to eliminate kerf width issues, plus good safety tips as well

I picked up the hold down stick from a previous video of yours and just a couple weeks ago had my saw pull a small piece out from under the stick it and fling it away. I'm really glad I wasn't holding it with my hand or I wouldn't be typing right now. Thanks for the tips!

Really thoughtful and important post.

Great vid, Stumpy. I believe that the push cut is already in the instruction manuals for SCMS. If not, it should be. One safety tip to add is to always make sure the workpiece is tight against the fence, and no offcuts are anywhere nearby. I was sloppy one time, the blade grabbed an offcut, slammed it violently against my thumb, which hurt like he77. Nail turned black & i throbbed for hours. I found out later that it actually bent the fence (no replacement part available) and bent my 12" 80-tooth Forrest blade. That was a painful and expensive lesson!!! The video thumbnail is what makes me share this.

All good tips. I especially like #3 as I cut large stock at work and have seen the binding problem I’d kerf cut Is not used. Thx for the reminders.

all great tips, especially your last one. I haven't seen that doohickey, but i often use a scrap piece of longer wood to apply the downward pressure while cutting small pieces.

Thank you for your great insight and straight to the point advise, I appreciate such things.

That first tip blew me away... great idea

Thanks a bunch for all the tips, James! 😊 Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊 And happy holidays!

I got one of those miter saw hold-down sticks and it’s great. I also use it when drilling small parts on the drill press. It saves me time from getting a bunch of clamps out and keeps my fingers away from spinning metal.

Appreciate this and all your videos. I would suggest a small auxiliary fence made of two pieces of 1x and clamped to the miter saw fence as another or augmented approach to #4. Keep up the great work.

Great tips. The first one is so simple it's a "Why didn't I think of that" kind of tip. I also can't tell you how many popular woodworking channels I have seen doing climb cuts with the sliding miter saw. I think the main reason is dust collection. Since there's a gap at the kerf the dust doesn't get blown back as much.

Best tips I’ve ever seen thank you

Tip no. 1 is very good. Nos 2&3 I already knew, and I agree with Roger Hodges' comments below regarding No 4. An excellent vid though and admirably concise; so many vids with lists of things are spoilt by interminable preamble. This one gets down to business straight away.

I bought the safely hold down device a couple of years ago. Worth every penny.

I agree, Stumpy, I would always use a piece of wood about 12 to 15 inches for the small pieces. I will be ordering one. Thanks Jeff, Timothy

All good tips! Thanks a bunch!

Great video. When I'm working in my shop and cut multiple pieces of the same size. I have a very easy way to match cuts. If you need 16 1/8" & 24 5/8 put your stop block 30"-36" away. Then set the cut piece you would like to match against the stop block then put a scrap block against that and cut the scrap block. It will be the exact signs to put against your stop block for a perfect cut every time. Remember to right on the block what size you get when using it in case you need another one. Never know when wood could split or chip off. Good luck and Happy Holidays!

All great tips. I have the holding stick. It's great.🙂🙂

Thanks for the tips! I agree they are all great and should make anyone's miter sawing much safer. Who wants to lose a finger or 4? Certainly not me!!! 😮 Excellent video like all of your submissions. 😊😊😊😊❤❤❤❤

Once again...great information! Thank You.

Great video James. I bought one of the hold downs the last time you showed it and it works brilliantly. Take care James. Cheers, Huw

I thought the tip about cutting a slot in a scrap of wood for measuring was brilliant and so simple Thank you Regards Chris UK

Learned about the 'million dollar' stick on your channel long ago, and had to wait for a restock before getting mine. Also got one for my Navy buddy who is sorta new to woodworking.. It's a thing kept close to the miter saw and used frequently. You simply cannot be TOO careful...

Great tips! Ordered a stick.

The 10M Dollar Stick is a safety tool no woodworker should be without. I have 1 and have purchased several for friends as well. I still work as a Paramedic, and I can tell you from terrible experience how saws and fingers do not get along well. Fingers ALWAYS lose! And the victim is always a woodworker with years of experience.

Thank You for your tips. I really enjoy them. I also have two suggestions. One: allow the saw to come to a complete stop before lifting so any scrap end on the right won't be thrown. Two: when cutting small pieces, cut another piece first to make a zero clearance backing. Thank You again

Fastcap is great. I ordered one of the holding sticks in this video after seeing Stumpy show it off in a previous vid. It came missing one of the little rubber feet and Fastcap priority mailed me a whole new set of them for free, and didn't ask me to go through any of the hassle a lot of companies will for replacement parts.

Another thing you can do and I always have. You can see @5:28, the slotted holes in the fence, they are used to put a sacrificial fence on. I put a solid piece of baltic birch plywood across my fence, put screws in those slotted holes from the back (making sure they don't poke thru the front) and then just make a cut thru it. Now you have a zero clearance fence. Gives you cleaner cuts and it's way safer to cut smaller pieces, if you must, but I would also recommend using that holding stick as well. If you need them off for a reason, its only to short screws on each side.

A+ on the miter saw holding stick.

When cutting wider stock, like oak stair treads. To avoid splintering, I use a kerf cut like you described.

I had no idea that some people pull the cut. 🤯😱 That hold down does look good. Thanks for the recommendation

Great tips as always. Thanks!

I have been using Radial Arm Saws for over 60 years and I have just learned a safer way here. Thanks for the tip.

Very helpful tips !!

Thanks for saving me... I stopped cutting small pieces with my miter saw because even with my safety gear I have come to close to losing a finger or an eye to small pieces flying away. I'll be testing the stick as soon as it arrives!!!!

Got the stick. Great tool.

Glad you are covering the miter saw because, though hard to believe, there aren't many tutorials that go in depth about them. Most cover the basics like setting stops for 90 degree cuts but not how that changes for miter cuts. Another basic tip is to allow blade to reach full speed before beginning your cuts if you are concerned about clean and precise work. I also would not recommend kerf cutting when precision is important. The slightest movement will ruin a miter cut. Obviously clamping the workpiece would help but that's inconvenient when doing batch work.

Yup, yup, and yup. I've used the $M stick for years. Your other tips are all great, as usual. Thanks!

I do need to get one of those holding tools. I always have a few scraps around and always put a longer piece behind the short piece so the is full support. However using the holding tool plus that method would be Best Practice.

When I am cutting a small piece of lumber, I tape it to a longer sacrificial piece of 1/4" plywood of similar width, and cut both at the same time. Has always worked well for me.

For #2 my saw has a holder to make sure the piece does not lift. I suggest adding such a holder if you don’t have one. It not only holds it down, but holds it to a measurement as well. #4 is great! I have had small pieces of trim go flying and done that nervous count to five after. I have a shop made tool to hold small pieces, but will be ordering that product ASAP because my solution is still a bit sketchy sometimes. This is my most uncomfortable operation on the miter saw and I often just pull out a handsaw in these cases just to avoid the inevitable. Thanks for that tip and product link!

Just bought the million dollar stick for only 25 bucks! 😉 I love the radial arm saw trick, I’d never seen that one before.

For the small piece, a “0 clearance auxiliary fence is a great addition to the hold down.