This Metal Block Fixes A Common Electrical Panel Problem

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Synopsis:
If you’re a homeowner looking to sell, or a beginner electrician finishing a job, a very common place to fail the electrical portion of an inspection is in “separation of grounds and neutrals after the 1st disconnecting means”. This video will simply and practically show what’s wrong and how to make it right. While we don't recommend homeowners correct this themselves, we hope this video provides a thorough overview with which to understand a quality electrician's work.
If the instruction in this video is unclear or skew to what you are searching for, feel free to comment below for additional assistance.
Thank you for watching; we value your feedback and monitor this channel daily.
EPro-To-Call:
You’ve got the tools and the willingness to solve your own electrical problem, but are held up by a couple ominous details. Rather than hiring out the whole project, get EPro’s own Joel Walsman via video or voice call here: electric-pro-academy.square.s...
Products We’d Recommend:
*EPRO endorses pro-level tools & materials, and receives a small commission for purchases through our links from Amazon & other affiliate programs. We’d be happy to recommend more cost-effective products for DIYers and low-frequency users if you engage with us in the comment section!
[] EPRO’s Amazon Storefront: smile.amazon.com/shop/electri...
[] Siemens 15-Terminal Ground Bar: amzn.to/3AP3tKj
[] Eaton 10-Terminal Ground Bar: amzn.to/3wBa6xA
[] Leviton 13-Terminal Ground Bar: amzn.to/3cvZ99s
[] Square D 15-Terminal Ground Br: amzn.to/3Tn6sRJ
[] Klein Tools Tapping Drill Bit Set: amzn.to/3QVx7Dh
[] Greenlee Tapping Drill Bit Set: amzn.to/3PSsCZ1
National Electrical Code (NEC) referenced in this video:
Free Access Here: www.nfpa.org/codes-and-standa...
[] Separation of Grounds & Neutrals [NEC 250.32(B)(1)]
[] No Self-Tapping Screws For Grounding [NEC 250.8 & 404.10(B)]
Outline:
0:00 - Introduction
1:01 - Avoiding Sharp Screws In The Panel
1:34 - Killing Power To The Panel
2:10 - Mounting The Ground Bar
3:07 - Connecting The Main Grounding Conductor
3:56 - Connecting All Other Grounds
5:45 - How A Pro Calculates Cost
Connect With Us:
Electric Pro Academy is a multimedia team dedicated to training and instructing DIYers and professional electricians for the growth and dignity of the craft nationwide.
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odysee.com/@ElectricPro
Jefferson Electric installs and services residential, commercial, solar, and Tesla systems in Indianapolis, IN.
www.jeffersonelectricllc.com/
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Got a question or ideas for a future video? Leave a comment below and submit your idea here: forms.clickup.com/f/23xa9-70/...

Опубликовано:

23 июл 2024

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Комментарии : 141

@layz_her2673 Год назад

I like the video but I strongly dislike your switch of placement of the ground bar. Originally you said to install above the sticker which is correct, however you installed it below that and, in my opinion. it is wayyy to close to the incoming A and B phase. That's my observation from an experienced electrician and inspector!

@Roy-ij1wq Год назад

I agree. I don't understand why he didn't just put the ground wires on one side and neutrals on the other and remove the bonding screw/bar. He was already disconnecting half of the wires. Why not just move them all?

@markxx90 Год назад

@@Roy-ij1wq a lot of times they won’t all reach to the other side

@MrKen59 Год назад

I agree with @Layz_her. Having a bar that close to the 200 amp service input is a disaster waiting to happen. Yikes - gives me the creeps looking at it.

@bradleysmith6442 Год назад

Some panels actually have the holes there for ground bar installation already, not a big deal.

@MrKen59 Год назад

@@bradleysmith6442 When I see ground bars that close to the main line, I think about the 200 amps at 240 volts available and the potential fault current if a short occurs. Obviously he disconnected the power at the entrance, but after he leaves, the potential is there for the customer add ground wires. I guess you have to make it work when there are little options.

@ruco13113 Год назад

You dont think that grounding bar is too close to the feeder?

@kcuhc84 Год назад

Not for Harry Hazard electric. It's not only the price that is a shock.

@SirBrass Год назад

I'm not an electrician, but that ground bar seems way too close to the exposed hot conductors. Why not put the ground bar above the sticker like it appeared you were going to do at first?

@erbewayne6868 Год назад

Closer spacing than hot bushes to neutral.

@dirtyrotten2648 Год назад

Remove the neutral bonding jumper below main breaker. Install grounding jumper from left busbar to panel enclosure Separate grounds and neutrals. No ground bus install required. These sub panels are designed to be used on 3 wire or 4 wire applications.

@williamshilling1862 Год назад

I wouldn't let hire them wire a dog house. Co has so many negative comments.

@dirtyrotten2648 Год назад

@@williamshilling1862 Yeah. Pretty shady if you ask me.

@williamshilling1862 Год назад

@@dirtyrotten2648 you never put a grd bar that close to the main lugs.

@WeMe83 Год назад

@dirty rotten. Please explain to me how that’s shady unless your talking about the guy on the video who’s trying to ground the feed.

@jaybird4095 Год назад

I'm a DYIer, project engineer by profession. I've remodeled my house, passed all the inspections with flying colors. Always do my research. Because of your videos, I decided to pull the cover on my garage subpanel. Guess what, the grounds and neutrals are combined. Bought the parts this evening to separate them tomorrow. Thanks.

@bruceadler-9410 Год назад

Since this is an upgrade of an old installation which you didn't do yourself, before you did anything else you should have verified that you don't have a ground to neutral short somewhere downstream from this panel. Disconnect the 2/0 ground and neutral feeder cables and remove the bonding screw from the right neutral bus bar. That isolates everything on this load center from the system ground. Then pull off all the bare ground wires from the isolated left and right neutral bus bars. At that point your meter should show an open circuit between the neutral lug and both the panel ground and the bare 2/0 ground cable.

@jamesstringer4211 Год назад

He did the work himself didn't you pay attention ?

@bruceadler-9410 Год назад

@@jamesstringer4211 I paid very good attention. Did you? He only did the upgrade to add the external disconnect. He did NOT do the original installation of the panel he's working on now. He's merely modifying it to separate the grounds and neutrals.

@Neil-ym8vy Год назад

Also smart to tape cardboard over the the terminal and guts where the breakers are. Avoiding metal shards. I don't recommend people drill holes into a live panel but sometimes if you don't work for yourself this is a good practice.

@SirBrass Год назад

He said that the conductors to the panel were deenergized before he tapped.

@SavedByFaithInJesus Год назад

ALWAYS a good practice, even if deenergized.

@shshshs2 Год назад

Love your video. I have learning and gaining a lot of knowledge from them

@mackfisher4487 Год назад

A faster way may be to use the yellow ideal Spliceline 42 orange In-Line push-In Butt splices to extend circuit equipment ground connections from old neutral buss to new ground bar location.

@charlesjohnson6073 Год назад

I watch this channel on the way to work and on the way home. Been doing electrical for almost five years in the Indianapolis area and since I've been watching this channel I feel like I have learned so much more. I really appreciate the time and effort you put into providing great and educational channel.

@electricbro8136 Год назад

Woohoo bra I’m from the north of Indiana. Haha great to hear another electrician. Please never put your grounds this close. This was a habit square D did factory built.

@Gruntled2001 Год назад

Awesome video, as always. Talking about those lugs: if there are OEM covers that the manufacturer started making, I try installing those, as a value add. If not, I tape the hell over them using 3M 2228 self-adhering rubber tape or 2229 pads.

@johnc6343 Год назад

I appreciate the price/cost breakdown Joel.

@mos8541 Год назад

rite, same

@balexan530 Год назад

Why would you put the ground bar so close the the hot wires?

@Soprano0913 4 месяца назад

I love your videos! You guys are great! I need your professional knowledge on my panel. I have a 100amp 20 circuit General Electric 1960 era. I'm out of neutrals i want to add a type 1 surge protector. Is it code to add a neutral bar and a bumper wire from old to new? Also does the addon neutral bar need to be isolated the original? Lastly no ground bar can i just simply screw one into the panel?

@steverosenbaum2469 Год назад

Hi Jeff, Retired electrician here. I think 10-32 screws are required. Again depending on the AHJ. I really enjoy your channel. Doing a great job 👏

@TwilightxKnight13 Год назад

I am installing a new Square D Homeline Plug-on neutral 200amp panel and the pre-drilled/tapped holes and the ground bar are 8-32. Considering how [relatively] new this panel design is, I would doubt that 10-32 is required. I did quick (not thorough) peek at the 2020 code and while 404.10(B) does specify -32 threads, the size of the screw is determined by the manufacturer of the device, in this case the ground bar.

@Gruntled2001 Год назад

@@TwilightxKnight13 Agreed, I think it's a 110.3(b) item, "install PMI", using supplied hardware.

@zerosparky9510 Год назад

Also think they are to be 10/32. and thinking about it. just good policy anyway.

@Roy-ij1wq Год назад

I don't understand why he didn't just remove the bonding bar and put the ground wires on the left side and neutrals on the right. The bonding bar is located directly below the main breaker and the main neutral wire is connected to the bar on the right. The left bar is connected to the right by the bonding bar. He was already disconnecting half of the wires. Why not just move them all and put the neutrals on the right side and ground wires on the left?

@Cemsicles Год назад

Not every manufacturer makes it possible to remove bonding bars. It's just better practice since ground wires can be braided and bunched to save space but neutrals are not.

@denverbraughler3948 Год назад

It’s better to add ground bars parallel to the neutral bars.

@dougtaylor8380 Год назад

I didn't think noalox was required anymore with the new alloys in production over the last few decades.

@ranger178 Год назад

do they sell the plastic caps for the main terminals that they put on new panels separately for old panels like a square d QO panel?

@plexguy Месяц назад

Quick question. I have an old sub-panel 300ft away from the main panel in the main house. The sub panel has a 100 amp service that comprises of two hots and one neutral. It also had the neutral and ground bonded together in the sub panel with a ground wire going to an outdoor water line. I would like to switch that old sub panel out for a new one and separate the grounds and neutrals and add an 8ft grounding rod. But can I do that since I do not have a ground wire coming from the main panel to the sub. Also, the conduit that carries the 100amp service to the sub-panel is plastic not metal. what do I do>

@mathman0101 Год назад

Knipex and other good manufacturers provide a fully rated Mat that can be clipped across the whole main phase part of the panel adding that little bit more safety when working on individual circuits below.

@jt3178 Год назад

In Canada panels are required to be sold with ground bar, solve the problem as even main panels are generally wired with separated ground and neutrals....

@DavidHalko Год назад

This panel has separate and was “sold with ground bar”, the panel “was wired with separated ground and neutrals”, so you may have missed the original problem. The problem is that this panel, in the role it previously played as the main panel, had the existing separate ground bar joined with the neutral. The panel has moved to a new role as a sub panel. He likely determined that moving the grounds to a separate new bar disturbs the least amount of existing infrastructure to solve the code / safety problem. In this panel, Neutrals can be re-wired to one existing bar, grounds left on the existing bar, and break the bond between the bars… but if any old neutrals were cut too short to make it to the other existing bar, it would be a new problem. This also probably reduces his liability, working with old equipment, by not touching anything else.

@stevebabiak6997 Год назад

@@DavidHalko - if existing neutral wires are too short, would code allow a splice of some sort to lengthen them?

@dougtaylor8380 Год назад

@@stevebabiak6997 Yes, you can wirenut an extension to make it longer. A breaker/distribution panel can be used in the same way as a junction box so wires can pass through and be joined.

@stevebabiak6997 Год назад

@@dougtaylor8380 - thanks, that’s what I thought. And hence I don’t understand why the “wires aren’t long enough” is being put in here like an excuse.

@DavidHalko Год назад

@@stevebabiak6997 - just because you can does not mean you should. If 1 or 2 wires need joining, it may not be a bad plan. If most of the wires are too short, those wire nuts can build up & suck up space fast. A single wire nut mistake can cause a fire. Moving existing wires where they don’t need to be joined is a safer solution.

@chriscutress1702 Год назад

In our jurisdiction Aluminum and Copper can not be used in the same box and Aluminum is no longer allowed in new construction. Insurance companies charge an extra surcharge if the house has Aluminum wiring and can deny fire insurance if mixed wiring exists in the house.

@steveloux4709 Год назад

None of that is pertinent to installations following the USA's National Electrical Code. And those requirements/bans on the use of aluminum are not based in science either. The alloys which comprise aluminum conductors since the late 1970's do not have properties of oxidation characteristic of the earlier aluminum wiring of the late 1960s - early 1970's.

@deadluser Год назад

That's cool. Didn't know that subpanels had to separate ground conductors. When we upgraded our service at my last house, and they turned my master panel into a sub panel I don't think they did that.

@TheRiddler491 Год назад

Grounds and neutrals stay separated and are only connected at the first means of disconnect. Because your main is now a sub, it is no longer the first means of disconnect. I think I explained that right.

@TwilightxKnight13 Год назад

It is a fairly common mistake made by many electricians, especially self-taught ones and handymen, but if you got a permit and the system was inspected, chances are they either remembered to separate the ground and neutrals or the inspector caught it and they corrected it.

@Roy-ij1wq Год назад

@@TwilightxKnight13 Inspectors also make this mistake. When I built my shop 25 years ago I did my first DIY wiring job and asked the inspector to do a thorough inspection. He didn't flag that the ground and neutrals were bonded in a subpanel, didn't flag that I was short a ground rod and didn't flag that I overfilled the outlet boxes. He is the same inspector that passed the inspection when the house was built 10 years before and didn't flag that the kitchen only has one 20 amp circuit that is shared with the half bath. I've since corrected all of the obvious errors but I still get surprised. Last month I had to cut a wire that went through a rotted floor joist I was replacing and determined that it fed the closest outlets in the family room above. I didn't find out until the following morning that it also fed the sump pump in the basement and learned this because it rained the night before and the basement was flooded. I still pull permits for all my work but I don't trust that the inspector knows what he is doing and do my own research. RU-vid channels like this one are a great resource especially when they invite comments.

@deadluser Год назад

@@Roy-ij1wq I think this happened to me. We passed inspection, and the conductors were not separated. Just looked at some pics I had saved.

@mos8541 Год назад

go check!

@bobvecchi7981 Год назад

How about he violated the UL listing on the load center by installing the ground bar in the first place.

@WeMe83 Год назад

I’m the wrong place. They have pre tapped holes with a ground symbol by them for a reason.

@bobvecchi7981 Год назад

@@WeMe83 but he needed to install the one that was listed for the load center and install it in those pretapped holes. I don’t think he did that

@Cemsicles Год назад

Talk about setting up the next guy... If I see a ground bar there, I am installing my own bottom or the side of the panel. We can't just shut the power off when people have medical devices, or it's freezing cold or hot out.... because the electrician before me decided to put the ground bar over the top "because some grounds are short" and they can't be bothered to extend them. It's a total dick move for the next guy, just like putting small wires in larger diameter spaces.

@ericapelz260 Год назад

"when people have medical devices" sounds like you plan to work it hot. That is a BAD idea and, frankly, lazy. Take the time to connect the medical equipment to another source. Run an extension cord from a neighbor's house if needed. There is ALWAYS the potential to short something in a hot box, and if someone is on medical equipment, you just killed them.

@Cemsicles Год назад

@@ericapelz260 Lol, y'all really don't know or understand residential and commercial work if you think we can leisurely shut off power everytime we add or remove a circuit. Nature of the business is that you have to at times work in hot panels, so you do not put ground bar of all things anywhere near the line.

@JasonEDragon Год назад

@@ericapelz260 I had a backup generator installed and service upgraded a few years ago and a lot of work was done on my breaker panels - replacing the backing plywood, sifting one panel over, replacing another, and adding a transfer switch. It took a few dozen hours to rearrange all the cables and sort out the nearby phone, television, and data cabling. It was being worked on over the course of a week or two and it would have been impractical to not have worked on the panels when energized at times. To have a collection of extension cords bypassing everything for hours or days would not have improved safety.

@Checkmate54321 Год назад

@@ericapelz260 You sound like someone who has no actual field experience...

@Checkmate54321 Год назад

@@Cemsicles Yea, in my area some older houses don't have a disconnect means other than a main breaker, which does not de-energize the mains coming into the panel. So you would have to call out the power company to pull the meter.

@offertunatea Год назад

I thought that the sub panels are supposed to get power source from the main panel and they look like getting the power sources individually. What does exactly sub panel mean?

@ElectromagneticVideos Год назад

I'm curious - does the electrical code or panel manufacturer have anything to say about on adding something like that inside a panel? Obviously its allowed or you wouldn't be doing it! Are there restrictions one should know about? Obvious a very practical and solution!

@ralph5450 Год назад

The manufacturer sells bars yo do just what he did. There's even little nubs and tapped holes is certain places if it works out with wire lengths.

@ElectromagneticVideos Год назад

@@ralph5450 OK! So the manufacturer of the panel even intended for you to be able to do that! Thanks!

@petercampbell4220 Год назад

My new square d panel gives instuctions to mount grounding bars in other than the pre driiled spots. Just says to make sure screws cut threads into metal enclosure.

@renep.l.1580 Год назад

What would you do in case of upgrading a federal pacific? So if you don't have ground in a existing panel and all the wires powering the house has no ground and you upgrade your panel without rewiring what would you do to pass inspection? Please I need help like ASAP. I live in San Francisco California. I need help please 🙏 thank you in advance

@ElectricProAcademy Год назад

You would be wise to call your building inspector, explain your goals and limitations, be humble, take notes and understand exactly what they're going to enforce. The building inspector and his supervisor get final say.

@ianbelletti6241 Год назад

The feeder is hot, then why are you trying to mount your ground bar by the feeder lugs? Mount the bar on one side or the other. You're allowed to have multiple ground bars in one panel.

@mouldyboats 4 месяца назад

If you kept the feeders energized during this operation you would be much safer leaving the main closed. The way you did - all the potential now has mostly one path to ground. Through you! It's mainly you loading the Circuit interrupter to trip levels.

@sparkythebuilder Год назад

Greenlee drill and tap set is $45. Go to Harbor Freight and pick up a set for $12. I have been using their set for many years with no issues.

@mos8541 Год назад

way wayyy wait... you've been using those SAME drill taps for YEARS? if in a power tool, unless im in a clutched drill at 2 or 3 ive never had a 6 or 8 last even months, i even keep the snapped ones for easy re threading where hole etc. already in place cuz drill tap go SNAP

@gregmartin1757 Год назад

Harbor freight? You can't be serious? No professional tradesman buys tools from harbor freight they sell cheap inferior cheap tools for clueless homeowners who don't know quality from garbage.

@tumbleweedking5668 Год назад

@@gregmartin1757 99% China to boot.

@mrcryptozoic817 Год назад

Manual taps, yes. Years. Drill taps, vrry unlikely. I have a set i inherited but would never put power on them.

@randomvideosn0where Год назад

So won't the electricity flow from the mounting screws in the ground bar, into the mounting screws of the neutrals?

@petercampbell4220 Год назад

I did not see or notice when he pulled the bonding screw. The nuetral bar is insulated from the chassis when bonding screw is out. This would be standard for "suitable for use as service equipment" the ground and neutral can`t be separated whe it is"suitable ONLY for use as service equipment" like a meter main. Caps for the important word. So his panel can be a main, or a subpanel.

@vancester1st Год назад

There’s room for that elsewhere in the panel. Placing it right above the main lugs is sketchy and creates a hazard for the poor souls who will be securing ground wires there in the future.

@WeMe83 Год назад

Or backing the screw out and and the wire slips down and hits the lugs.

@jonathanbenoit4875 5 месяцев назад

I think that SER service cable is not rated to be indoors like that? Anyone else notice this?

@leiferickson713 Год назад

Code is nothing more than the bare minimum and cheapest way you’re allowed to do it.

@ericpelayo9872 Год назад

Why in the world, would you place a ground bus above the hot lines... You're so fired (I would have fire you😁😁😁)

@undaya Год назад

Those screws have been 10-32

@williamcorcoran8842 Год назад

Dude you are gonna kill someone trying to connect a ground that stabs the line in.

@olivertaylor8788 Год назад

I always cut the busbar and whites on one side coppers on the other side.much nicer job,safer,..

@400080vikkash Год назад

So I'm confused you did this job and never separated the grounds and neutrals at the sub panel? Or it fixing someone's mistake?

@steveloux4709 Год назад

Maybe neither. He explained this panel was originally the first point of disconnect until a new main disconnect was later added outside the building. While acting as a main panel, it's allowable to land both the grounded circuit conductors and the equipment grounding conductors on the same bussing. Once the neutral was bonded in the cabinet outside however, this panel should have been immediately rewired.

@denverbraughler3948 Год назад

How it was originally was a stupid ripoff. I never combine neutrals and grounds. Ground bars go parallel to neutral bars.

@JohnstonPettigrew Год назад

Way too close to incoming phases.

@MrTooTechnical Год назад

Fuking awesome

@RJ-ej1nr Год назад

"It's relatively tedious and time consuming to pull all of those grounds off and relocate them." Understatement! Have you gotten to the point where you have stopped thinking, "Ok, that looks clean, and everything is done precisely correct, but am I sure I couldn't have done that a bit faster?" For me, I've accepted I will be thinking that forever.

@lit1electric Год назад

Turn off the breakers before the main bruh...jus my experience.

@TwilightxKnight13 Год назад

Good suggestion. For those following along at home, turning on the main while the individual breakers are on can cause a sudden surge as all the downstream devices that are plugged in/installed will all energize at the same time. While it is unlikely to cause a problem, there is some risk. Generally, when working on electrical, turn off (de-energize) all breakers starting from the point furthest down-stream and moving up until you reach the point in the system where you will be working. Then go in reverse when you are ready to turn everything back on. Be safe and good luck!

@denverbraughler3948 Год назад

The utility company suddenly energizes 10,000 homes at one time. Can you be specific about examples of problems that you can avoid that are no different from what happens 1 to 100 times per year in rural areas?

@Jpawww Год назад

You have done your customer a disservice by placing that bar there and endangered all the guys that follow behind. Please go back and move it higher

@LannisterKing Год назад

wouldnt that ground arc with the main connectors it is all bare copper

@csmith8503 Год назад

No.

@chachasfly Год назад

Looks like crap. Why would you put a ground bar and ground wires right on top of the 2 phases. This guy has lots to learn still

@gregmartin1757 Год назад

Wow i am amazed by the number of people committing here who quite obviously aren't electrician's don't have a clue being critical and pretending they actually know what they talking about.

@cocotug0 Год назад

would you put the ground bar that close to the main lugs?

@Kamawah 6 месяцев назад

I am no Electrician but that ground bar is too close for comfort.

@Xxpoo Год назад

My opinion is that all ground wires should be green insulated not bare copper. It only makes sense.

@Checkmate54321 Год назад

I wish the manufactures of NM cable would start doing that, but all the romex i've ever seen has bare copper ground...It is dangerous for people who have to land a wire in a live panel.

@spencerwyche2552 Год назад

I would have turned off each breaker before I turned the main off.If you know,you know.

@keeferfulton138 Месяц назад

Your placement is dangerous my dude.

@olivertaylor8788 Год назад

Way to close to your hot lines.FAIL..

@jjbgmb719 2 месяца назад

I have little respect for electricians that use aluminum conductors. There’s no good reason besides being cheap.

@yoho6348 Год назад

Your out of your mind!!!! Who would put ground bar, spanning A and B. With in inches! Please don't give anymore advise 😔

@steveloux4709 Год назад

The placement is within the purview of the electrician, absent any manufacturer's directions. This is a matter of preference and we know now that you would have done it differently. But he is not out of his mind, nor is this an unsafe installation. If we are following NFPA 70E, no one should be installing bussing or landing conductors within this cabinet with the power on, right? All he has done is moved the ground plane perhaps 1/2" closer to the ungrounded terminals. I don't see how 120V is going to jump across to the grounded plane given these conditions.

@denverbraughler3948 Год назад

It has nothing to do with ground plane or arc over. The panel is now impossible to work hot. It would be much simpler to install ground bars parallel to the neutral bars as should be done in every new panel. Yes, two or $15 ground bars would maintain the neat installation.

@steveloux4709 Год назад

@@denverbraughler3948 there is no reason that panel would ever need to be worked hot. Period.

@ericapelz260 Год назад

@@steveloux4709 .... there is no GOOD reason. Lazy is a reason...

@denverbraughler3948 Год назад

There is no reason ever to add ground bar across the top of a panel. But watch the video to see what happened.

@there4u06 Год назад

Redeem yourself by taking this video down. You’re literally showing people how NOT to do this. I don’t care if it’s ok in your area!?!? It’s sketchy and risky as this could be catastrophic if you see all the what if’s. 2 grounding bars on the sides would be safer and you have the space for it. And if you care about your reputation you’ll go back to that house and fix it!

@trustme7731 Год назад

It's a code violation since the panel manufacturer did not approve this mounting method and you didn't mention that the panel and the bar were the same manufacturer AND listed for that panel, which is required. The threads are also a code violation because there are too few threads in sheet metal. Like one thread. When the factory makes threaded holes in the can the hole is punched, not drilled, giving much more depth for threads. Hack job.

@kidkv Год назад

I do hope you're charging less for time for making videos on RU-vid, and not the full price for your time on the job site, for making the videos!! Disliked the video, after he only likes the + comments vs the ‐ comments!!