I drove from Houston to BR. A 4 hour drive. The temps out were 106. My car just killed about a hour from destination. First received the drivetrain malfunction warning. Then the Fuel Supply warning. Sat on the side of the road for tow truck to arrive for 4 hours. When the truck finally arrived the car cranked right up! I guess the module overheated and eventually cooled down. This video was helpful!
Just got the fuel supply warning and control voltage too low fault code when i scanned the EPK module. My car is a 2013 740li with the N55 engine and original fuel pump at 160k miles. After 35-45 minutes of driving depending on the outside temperature the car will stall. If your LPFP is weak it will damage the control module so i decided to replace both module and pump. If you’re at higher mileage i highly recommend doing the in tank fuel pump anyway which is not an expensive part. Got both factory parts brand new for around $600 from FCP EURO. Car runs lovely again and at full power.
Stacking the thermal pads will be an improvement but buying the right thickness pad will reduce the number of pad interfaces. Each interface will have an efficiency loss. My X5 has this issue (stock, 3L non-turbo). Seems like they overheat, car shuts down, and then once it cools, the car will start right up. Most of your heat will be from the MOSFET (big thick IC). There is also likely a temp sensor in there (or they use the built-in one sometimes found inside of the microcontroller). If they use an external temp sensor, these types of sensors can 'age' and their tolerances/accuracy can degrade slightly. I'll open up mine and take a look at the electronics (I do this for a living), and see if I can help add more detail to this video. Great video, and thanks for sharing! =)
If he used .5mm thickness pads and had to put 6 layers, do you think 1 layer of 3mm thickness would work better? Or maybe 3 layers of 1mm thickness so I have some adjustability?
this issue has been happening to me and my 2012 bmw 328i and i found this video, just wondering how thick the thermal pads should be to make it the most efficient. Since for me my car always stutters and shuts down after driving for about 30 minutes or so
I have the same problem with my 2012 f30. I thought my car ran out of gas the first time as I had 30 miles left and it said fuel supply low. Today, it shut off again alerting “fuel supply low” and then losing power. I’ve noticed that’s when it’s really hot that’s when it tends to happen.
Damn man i think this worked. I had 2 fuel error codes back to back in a 15 minute time frame. I did this and i havent had the code come on for 500 miles. I hope its this because summer is comming. Now when i touch the back of the module the silver heat plate is hot so i think the heat transfer is working with the pads
You don't need the thermal pads on the larger module. It doesn't handle any significant current. The thicker chip near the connector is what handles all the current. That's why the original "thermal solution" was only on that side.
It really works with that thermal heat pad? Meaning the heat would be channel off from the circuit board itself with these thermal heat pads? Btw, what’s the error message pops up on your idrive and your BMW model?
Here's what I learned from my experience with the fuel module overheating: My car stalled and wouldn't start. Diagnosis: fuel-module overheating. After some research I found that an old/worn fuel pump can cause this because the fuel pump has a lot of draw on the module and causes the module to heat up! A new fuel pump fixed this situation. BTW, a new module costs $600 and was told at the time that it would take 2mos to get it because of backorder. (probably so many were ordered because of unscrupulous mechanics charging customers to replace this as well when it didn't need to be. That's just an empirical guess)
Thank you .I was told the same only Replaced the fuel pump yesterday. I’m hoping it fixed the problem. New mechanic said it was no need to replace the fuel module.
In my case the weak/old original fuel pump damaged the module so in warm weather the module was still overheating after about 45 min of driving. So after replacing the pump in the tank i still ended up needing to replace the module.
Hey thought I’d chime in on this comment 2012 bmw 535i of 04/12 Fuel supply low warning Dtc fault 481b01 ekps control voltage low Replaced the following Hpfp updated connector Fuel rail sensor on back of fuel rail along valve cover Lpfp brand new Replaced and program/coded ekp Still receiving dtc fault 481b01 Module still seems to be getting warm after 15 min of driving I lose voltage at the electric pump phase a I’m burning out in circles on this one if anybody has any tips would be greatly appreciated
Happened to me 3 times. Each time had to get towed to mechanic. First they replaced fuel pumps then sensors and on last one the battery. $4k later I found this video and it fixed it 😢😢😢
Does this affect the f30 chassis i had a similar issue thought it was fuel pump replaced it couple months later on a texas hot day and it stalled on me waited couple min, unplugged my fuel pump plug it back and it was okay
Mine shutoff on me otw to work. And it was nighttime cus i dont work during the day. And mines just cut off with no prior warnings at all. Got a ekp from another car and it works but i get the fuel error code now but its been driving normal so far. But imma get it coded and see if that helps
I have a 08 335i n54 stage 2+ just installed stage 2.5 fuel pump (no e85 tune yet) and as soon as I step on the gas to do a little pull I get the 2aae fuel pump code in mhd. I am only getting the code though no symptoms or nothing. Will adding these thermal pads prevent that code from showing up
Could this still be my issue even if ekp codes aren't showing in MHD? It'm getting 29F2 and 29DC. Just installed a brand new HPFP from FCP so I doubt its the HPFP, plus the values on the MHD gauges are showing the HPFP hitting 3k under load and my LPFP hits 90 under load. The car dies after 10-15 minutes of driving. I have to pull over then it'll start back up and I'll have to hurry home before it dies again.
Hello i have a 2006 bmw 530i it wont start and it shows this on my scanner could that be the problem? ekps (fuel pump control module) control current too low
hey so my 328i is doing stalling after letting car warm up and wont start until i wait about 15 to 20 min. but the mechanic shop said it might be the sensor located on my negative battery cable
So my car would turn off when module over heats, today my amazing heat transferred arrived ( the link in your description) they were pretty thick of a layer, I did exactly as you said to do and now my car turn off in 1 mile distance, today on my way home it turned wfg about 8 times on me. Kinda sucks
the module could be completely done unfortunately. This solution is to help prevent the module from frying itself but in this case it may have been too late
I actually figured it out. Most thermal pads have heat conductivity of about 12W/k. Iron has 40w/k, aluminum has 230w/k ..so by installing a thermal pad between two metal plates, we’re actually making things worse (poor heat transfer). Unless you use extremely thin thermal paste that just fills the groves in the metal. Best bet would be using some heat sinks (10$) and a small fan. Or buy a new ekps
I use to get spontaneous stalls about once a week. Trying to restart the car immediately would crank the engine, but it engine wouldn't stay on. Would have to wait an hour for it to restart normally. Last time I disconnected the battery and it restarted after. Can't recall check engine code given, but I'm sure it didn't help me in diagnosing the problem. I switched it with a part from the junk yard, and the problem never happened again in over 2 years.
Thanks for the vid, i had this happen today on a stock fuel pump, got 2 errors 6292 ekp: voltage too low and 6293 ekp:current too high. When i cleared them and tried starting again it would start for a second and stall. Went out a few hours later and tried and it started so I assume its the over heating problem as I'm logging good pressures on low and in the rail. Wondering if this is just bandaiding a unit thats on its way out, or if the original units that came in these cars were faulty and worth just buying the newer version. EDIT: interestingly, I notice the P/N on yours is 16147276046 where as the replacement one they have listed on FCP is 16147229173 🤔
the ekp3 modules are definitely worth buying but honestly doing this is good practice anyways since they can still overheat due to the nature of the placement and having no fan
@@ayn30 I wound up replacing mine and it solved the issue. I bought it from fcp euro. I don't know if you can order from them from your country but if you can, it's worth it. They have a lifetime warranty on all parts, no questions asked. So you can use it for 50k miles or whatever, buy a new one, send back the old one and they will refund you the price for the original one, pretty sweet deal.
@@ChicagoE9X I ended up buying a cheap ekp module off ebay pulled from an 09 128i. The mechanic installed a cpu fan in the cover so it wouldnt over heat again. so far it has worked
So I replaced my fuel pump module, the one that you just replaced and my old one would work for about 15 minutes and then send the car into limp mode. I replace that another car will not start do I have to have it programmed it straight from BMW dealership, the part is, or do I have to disconnect the battery for it to reset itself?
If the module was brand new then yes. In fact, keep in mind that if new, and you don’t program it right away you can actually be damaging your car by running a part without coding to your specific vehicle HOWEVER, if it’s actually a part that came off the same chassis and base model of your car you should be fine because it was already programmed before
After I've replaced my stock fuel pump with Walbro 450 stage 2 unit I have that error in my I-drive regarding the pump for a few seconds.This error appears only after 1h time driving on the highway, immediately when I incrise the speed...After I decrese the speed, the error disappear and its keep coming back everitime I increase it....I dont have any issue with my car regarding this error, the car is running fine, only this message in the Idrive is the problem, so hopefully this solution will fix my problem.
Bro Moha Mohammad, are you from Malaysia? Does your F30 experienced this EKP over heating issue? Mind to share some thoughts here or perhaps a private whataspp if you’re ok with it. I’m from Malaysia and I’m experiencing this EKP heating up on my F30 lately.
thank you for vid it was good info. i'm having that issue now with my 2007 335i after installing fuel it lpfp and pure turbos,car had no issues beforehand then after on long drives or about 15-20 min drives car would either die out or if i turned ignition off it refued to start. experienced the long cranks also. purchased a new EKPm3 module waiting to have installed and hope problem is solved. will a brand new module need to coded to car in order for it to start? or will it still start the car till i can get it coded? did it solve your issue putting in the mats and stiil operating fine ?
@@kumharkewal7229 yes i changed from an ekpm2 module to a ekpm3 and also installed a Torqbyte pm4 fuel controller setup and car has been great! check out the Torqbyte pm4 website
@@copper067 I’m experiencing the same issues on my 2013 328i. My car turned off in the middle of the road after about 20 minutes of driving. The car wouldn’t turn back on. It would turn but but would not start. After a couple minutes of google searching, I found that a quick fix was to press the unlock and then lock button on the key fob. My car turned on after I did that. If I switch out the module, do I need to reprogram my car? ( I don’t know how to reprogram). Will my car work if I don’t get the new module reprogrammed? Thanks
@@doinitlive3015 you will need to code the new ekp module to the car. The key fob trick makes the fuel pump prime itself but you will still have cutoff issues and no start only crank. I've purchased the Bpm4 unit from spool street and haven't had anymore problems.
I switched my fuel regulator because of the gas leak. And usually the car runs good but then acts like I don’t have fuel pressure. You think it’s this? Usually I wait a little and then the cars act cool but then goes back to turning off like if there’s no fuel pressure.
@@codyway7424 it was the lpfp under the back seats. I was running the car stage 2 and the mistake I made was running the tank empty which was burning out the lpfp due to the increase in more fuel being needed for the tune
@@SlowG70 I'll watch for that. No tune, half tank of gas, came out of a restaurant and it would start and run a few seconds then quit. Towed home. Nest day it started right up. I'm taking it to a shop with the bmw software next week to let them see if they can tell anything.
Im getting in my f10 n55 a code 11A210 - Low pressure fuel system,plausibility:Power of electric fuel pump is to high for actual pressure. Im runing stage 3 and also have installed walbro 450lpfp, what do you think can be ?!
Had it happen to me since last year, every summer it stalls, but in the winter I drive smoothly, I haven't replaced the module, I already have a new one but I can't seem to get of the side of the seat, I already took off the bottom seat, but it's hard to take off the right side, now usually every summer here where I live it gets at 110F but on the winter it never stalls so I'm thinking it's the module, I've been getting the car/lift code but that was later on I don't think it's because of the module, on another note how can I check if my lights need new battery replacement or if it's the bulbs, the headline from the right and the left on the back don't seem to light up....
Would this cause a fuel pump plausibility code ...my car didn't shut off on its own but when I went to start it after a drive it wouldn't crank then I tried it about 10min later and started right up
That almost sounds more like a battery issue if it didn’t even crank. Fuel pump plausibility is just a code BMW throws around for no reason and usually means nothing about the fuel pump
Question can u code the module with bimmercode are do I need something else also can u code it with wireless adapter with android phone. After I drive my 535i for a while car shuts off wont start but after about 10 or 15 minutes its starts seem like it resets or maybe it cools down.
I recently upgraded to the 450lpfp and now I get the "fuel pump" warning on the screen. My car came with the EKPM3. Did you have to do the voltage fix or do you just keep the module cooler and ignore the faults?
Unhooked my negative cable and did the DIY on my module, when I re-hooked the negative cable and hooked up the module it cranks but no start?? Help! What could it be??
Why did you disconnect the battery in the first place? This module is wired with a simple 12v connector... It's not like an airbag that can detonate in your face. Now it's impossible to say what has happened... Maybe you killed the module while applying the pads/paste if you weren't careful with it?
I have an issue when I run E30 blend on pure turbos. Car sputters and backfires during WOT at peak; rail pressure crashes. I upgraded to a warlboro 450 thinking it was toast but I get the same exact issue. My car will also stall on cold starts every now and then too even on a pump gas daily tune.
@@ChicagoE9X - I think I'm having the same issue with my M2. Started after running an e30 blend. We've checked coils, replaced the plugs, replacing the LPFP today. The car hesitates on cold starts and takes longer to start. Sometimes it stalls. Then runs fine until WOT. Stock tune it runs almost perfect. Sputtered once. Anything more aggressive, fuel system crashes. I have both the LPFP and HPFP upgraded for over a year. Never had a problem until recently... Did you ever figure it out?
@@greendotadvertising It did end up being the EKP module. This should be fixed for newer generation cars i believe but I can look into it and get back to you. It could be the LPFP
If you need more cooling any slim laptop fan with a restrictor could be wired in, or soldier to power source. Have a 3d printed bracket so it matches the added thickeness and longer screws threaded. maybe a larger fuse would need to be installed, check current draws. Probably wire off the power from module or an accessory that runs when the car turns on like an accessory light. It will definetly help if the pillar has enough gap, on interior delete builds its a definite solution seen it work with the extra thermal pads
Mine E60 535 is completely stock and every once in a while the car will stall and I’ll have a fuel pump warning on the idrive.. after about 5 minutes the car starts up immediately. Could this be my problem? Or should I be looking more the fuel pumps
Hello, thanks for the video, it comes at the right time for me as I am about to upgrade my LPFP. If I keep the fuel pump control model, do I still need to re-code just for the LPFP? Many thanks in advance.
its on nhtsa site for f30 335i. but bmw dealership is straight up denying it! basically tells me i have to pay for 350 diag fee no matter what and that he sees no recalls whatsoever. PSYCHO! i contacted bmw north american they did nothing too!
Yeah BMW North America is the worst. Complete full of issh and useless. The service for these pumps ask to replace the fuel pump control unit as well. Reason being, they control the voltages sent to the pump itself. What has been happening, the original fuel control unit doesn't mate well with the new fuel pumps installed during the campaign so they unfortunately fail again. I went through this ordeal with my N55, different platform, and the dealer tried to pawn off the new repair bill at close to 3k which included a new pump AND fuel pump control unit as the procedure asks for. I had a disagreement with my service advisor and pressed him on the fuel pump issue. The fuel pump is lifetime due to the recall. The control unit is anywhere 150.00 to 300.00 depending on where you shop and not 3000.00. So back and forth for a couple and they wouldn't budge. So I sold the vehicle and done with F'n BMW. FU!% BMW, BMW North America, and that BMW Dealership. Good luck to you all dealing with that brand. The world would be a better place if BMW returned all the money it's owners spent on repairs and the company itself simply goes bankrupt. I'm speaking from experience of owning numerous BMWs. Better off just running them into the ground and throw them in the trash.
@@prospectla6316 man he made me so mad( first he/SERVICE MANGER)gave my friend run around on phone like 20 MINUTES STRAIGHT/ SO I GOT ON PHONE I WAS LIKE MAN WHAAAT IIIIIN TTTTTHE WORLD ARE U TALKIN ABOUT! FRIGGIN PSYCHO I TELL U. he said ok ok ok ok ok that hed get rt on it (call north america to speak to lady i told him i spoke with).lady enver called me back so i KNO HE DIDNT CALL HER JERKOUT never called me back either and I NEVER CALLED HIM BACK! man what a sorry pos! he literally denied/said he couldnt see 3 recalls on nhtsa( u cant miss em!) , i said by law u have to fix all these! BY LAW! what a jerk out! man if european bmw new american dealerships were doin this to their brand i bet u theyd do somethin bout it. this is trash like u said! good quality but american dealers turn it to trash and really REALLY make it down rt disgusting bein that way.itll come back to em when their wives/husbands leave em, theyre broke, on crack/alcohol wondering why life treated them sooooo badly.. lol its not life time(lpfp for n55) but it is a SUPER extended warranty on the pump, like until 2026 and or 150,000 miles. which i have plenty of that left! i did call north america back and ANOTHER JERK, told me last lady i spoke with didnt kno what she was talkin bout! i bout sht myself! REALLY???????????????????? toyota dealerships here doin it also! toyota in japan dealers give u all sorts of free sh@t.. let u come to dealerships and eat free, party do whatever u want. man i wouldnt go to another dealership here if THEY paid me a years worth o gas or fixed a recall! the stress isnt worth it that alone! this is why there are hackers but people wanna put them in jail! what? theyre only hope america has!
@@jackhere4594 unfortunately it's a game of Money. BMW doesn't care cause the money is always coming in. The minute they will care is when the money stops. That includes leases and etc. The 1% doesn't care, cause they are throw away cars to them. It's all about what makes sense in terms of the dollar when buying, selling, or leasing these BMW vehicles. People need to treat the brand like the 1% do, run them into the ground and throw them away and understand the cost in the process. Either use the loss as leverage in a business for a service or product roll out or something else. As long as BMW continues to build cars, Engine leaks and Failures will continue to exist. It's all about what side of the dollar you are on when it is time to dump the vehicle.
@@ChicagoE9X no codes at all just sometimes I come to a stop an stall and I press the gas and wont go it goes slow but if I turn the car of them on everything back to normal speed
Know I'm late on this... But what was the error you received when the overheating happened? I'm assuming it's similar to what I saw (low signal to EKPS as it was shutting off?)
I just started dealing with this issue too. No check engine light, like many said, the car just shuts off and the only light I would get is the car on the lift with the message of service engine soon.
@@ChicagoE9X I just finished putting the thermal pads on and even the thermal paste on the cover but now it shuts off even sooner and it’s not even hot out. It idles rough just before shutting off. Any suggestions?
Hey man is this still holding up? I am facing the same issue and want to know how it does long term so i dont have to buy a new module because the price is ridiculous.
How is this holding up? I'm curious. I currently have a e60 535i and lately it's been stalling out and throwing a "fuel pump" malfunction message. I really feel like the EKP is indeed overheating.
@@ChicagoE9X fab ty. ordered the heatsink pads will keep you updated. im hoping my module isnt fried as it has only cut out 3times over the past month.
@@ChicagoE9X i have a 08 328i e90. My car is having the same problem. Randomly turning off while driving mostly after a hour or two of driving or 40 or so mins of idling. then shows car on the lift light. After 5 - 10 mins it will start up again no problem Sometimes it die 10 minutes later down the highway. I had the eccentric drive shaft replaced and that didnt fix it. Now im thinking its the fuel pump control module . any advice?
@@user-zt7zk5ll6d you could try doing this fix to see if it works. You’ll also want to look at the fuel pump and make sure there’s nothing obvious wrong like lines disconnected or cracked.
@@user-zt7zk5ll6d did you get it fixed ? I’m having the same issue. Just replaced my fuel pump on a 328xi and I’m still stalling at 60mph. maybe it’s my module
I just replaced my fuel control module after my e90 kept randomly shutting off. Replacing it seemed to fix the stalling issue this far however now it doesn't always start on the first try. Now if I go into a store and come back to it 20 minutes later. It won't start until I lock the doors and let the car reset. Any idea what could be the issue now?
