It’s the beauty of RU-vid, whenever you watch the video look into the comment section because majority of the time that’s when you get the bulk of the information. Sometimes the initial video just get the thought process going, and then the community on RU-vid come up with excellent solutions.
God forbid a RU-vidr acknowledging the audiences genius and then giving credit where credit is due. Cool accessory for cutting crown. Sadly, I stick with my slider😂😂😂
Just found your channel and watched part one. Then I looked through your videos and saw this video! What a GREAT follow-up! Fantastic that you give credit to those viewer ideas and share them all with us. You, sir, are awesome!
Lee, Thank you for the plug. You did a much better job of the dovetail grooves than I did. I really like the tape measure idea. Now I have to order the tapes and add them.
I just found your channel today, 8/25/24. This is only the second of your videos that I have watched, and already you have saved me the time and expense of building a miter station. Thanks. I look forward to watching more of your videos.
I love this. I built a fence system into my outfeed for my mitre saw and it has been a huge pain because when I take the saw off to do baseboards (bring it to the room) etc I have to reset everything. Not to mention the fence takes up 1/3 of the useable space on the bench.
Watched your first video on this miter saw fence several weeks ago and purchased all of the materials. I’m going with a 3’ fence on each side. Just found this video and will purchase the mending plate today. Can’t wait to assemble it all this weekend!!
Nice mods and great video. I plan to do this with my saw. Thanks for the video!! One suggestion on the angle bracket support. If you are using the L-bracket style you showed, I would add a chamfer to the bottom backside of that fence. The L bracket has a crimp/bump in the inside middle of the 90degree angle to give added support. Without a chamfer, the support portion of the L will be pushed down due to that crimp/bump.
That is true. I actually ground that crimp off, I just didn’t show it in the video. A shallow chamfer on the fence is smart and probably an even better option! 👍
Lee, I LOVE the videos... BUT, I have always been told, when cutting always "maintain control" of the piece of wood that is between any stop and the blade. Control= holding on to, a clamp, push stick, etc. In your vid you are cutting stock with you holding on to the wood on the left side of the blade while showing the the piece of wood between the stop and the blade. The idea is, the piece of wood could easily get bound up and kick out and is the one needing control, while the other side NOT bound and will usually just bump out of the way. I managed a shop that cut stretcher/picture frame molding. We used a system that had two people and two chop/mitersaws independently cutting next to each other. Nothing fancy, just two people with two Makita saws standing next to each other. The saws were about 24 inches part. Standing facing the saws, the one on the left would pre-trim/miter cut the end and then slide it to the person on the right and they would cut it to length using a fence stop block.The person on the right side would have the piece under control because it was between the fence stop and the blade. After 6 years and well over a *million (seriously) cuts we only had 12 recorded kickback moments. Of those 12, 10 were from the person on the right not holding/controlling the block. Take notice I believe of your second cut. As the saw returns to the upright position the piece between your stop block and the blade starts to lift slightly. Of the 10 kickback we had, 7 were from the person letting go after the cut and allowing the saw to return to the upright position, without holding the cut piece in place. Once the blade was no longer in contact with the piece, raising above material, obviously in wasn't a problem. *Million... okay I really didn't count, but during our rush holiday season we would make 30,000+ frames (plus the other 8 months of the year x 6 years). Each frame has 8 cuts... that my friend is a LOT of miter cuts!!! Soooooo, if I'm wrong... PLEASE correct my thinking on this one!!!
I made something for my old table saw that had a horizontal feed guide base that was attached at a 90 degree angle to the 6 foot auxiliary fence that was connected by F-Clamps. The base was only for the sections that were before and after the table itself, but it helped to keep the wood from moving around constantly. Instead of the angle bracket connected in the back of yours, what about a flat board connected to the bottom and was kept at a true 90 by a couple of metal right angles. If it was a thin enough melamine, it would allow the wood to slide, yet be supported and not weigh too much. By the way, cool video. I just thought this might help. Bust a knuckle!
These are good ideas. I thought about adding a horizontal board to the bottom at 90°, maybe even using pocket screws, but wanted to keep it as simple and inexpensive as possible. Nothing stopping anyone from doing that though!
Great video Lee. I believe a lot of times we as humans look for the most difficult ways to do things when the simplicity is there in plain view. This was one of your best. Thanks for the insight.
OMG!!!!!!!!!!!! This is AMAZING. I was just browsing YT for woodworking videos and you popped up. I love your approach and sense of humor. So happy to have found you. I will be building a TINY(12x10) woodworking shed and this miter saw set-up is going to work well in my shoe box shop. I look forward to watching the rest of your videos.
Love your ingenuity, Lee. Did you know that, if you use a 10 degree dovetail bit, your slot can accommodate Matchfit and Festool and T channel clamps and bolts? There's a guy who did a couple of videos on it. Gotta love a multitasker! Thanks for sharing.
Another set of great ideas. I like improvements that make things repeatable. I hate seeing people jump through hoops every time they have to do something. It vastly improves everything after when you cut out failure points. Great job.
I don’t think the slots would line up with the holes in the miter saw, and the front wouldn’t be flat. I show a lot more about how to line it up in Part 1 of this video
I just spotted your channel, liked and subscribed so far. I have a 1 car garage shop with way toooo many tools. I'm heading to the shop after this video to start planning a fence like yours . Brilliant. I just wish I found your channel sooner because I hate making a temporary fence, stop blocks, you know the drill. Thanks, you saved my miter saw from a life of useless hiding in the corner.
I have that same saw with that same base and have wanted some convenient way of setting up stop blocks that remained portable. I love this! I wonder if there's a way to rig up a holder on the bottom side of the base that would store the rails when the saw is folded up. The tricky part would be making sure it didn't interfere with the scissor mechanism.
@@BustedKnuckleWoodworks One quick question. If you put a gap under the board in order to handle dust. Wouldn't you want the L bracket being used as a support to have the same spacing from the support board instead of being flush? The board being cut would not be flat on the miter saw.
@@jeff1806 that’s a good point. The 1/8” gap under the fence is small enough that it doesn’t really matter. The L bracket is not that fussy and there’s gonna be a little play in it anyway.
If you bevel the wooden stop, so the relief is towards the fence face, you won't get as much build up of saw dust on it, and thus greater repeat accuracy.
Saw the first video & loved it! Got chuckles and a great idea & now improvements on the improvement - thanks for sharing the ideas that were shared by others!!! You've got a new follower! Soon as I get the parts I'm soooooooo making this!!!
Some nice upgrades there. My miter saw was one of my first real woodworking tools, yet it remains my least used. Maybe with some upgrades that could change. Either way, it is a great excuse to get out in the shop and make some sawdust. Besides, now I know why I haven't thrown out those 2x2 scraps of walnut.
I do a very similar thing, you will notice that over time that the supports will bow and sag making them all but useless. The good news is that they are easy enough to remake but that gets old too. I am now looking for enough bench space along a wall to do a more traditional and permanent setup.
You could always run a channel along the bottom and use an aluminum flip stop in a fixed horizontal position. I'll bet one (or two!) of those puppies won't sag!
I love your sense of humor man and great editing! I'm curious if you can please share or do a video on your French cleat wall. I'm trying to plan some cordless tool storage and love your setup.
Enjoyed both videos. Now can you do the same thing to simplify a table saw outfeed table? One that will work for a rear motor saw. That would be great.
Stop blocks should be always on the left side. Holding the cut piece with your left hand and cut with the right hand. This avoids pieces getting kicked out from the spinning blade, unless blade stops every time after every cut.
As long as the kerf doesn’t change you will be fine. The kerf should be 1/8” (there’s no reason to install a thin kerf blade on a miter saw). Of course you are correct in that the tape won’t be accurate for angle cuts.
Good stuff here. I still prefer the tracks for mounting and stops (especially for mounting to the saw) because repeated install and removal will inevitably wear out the dove tail where it's clamped. In addition to that, the outfeed support should only be used with light trim, as the constant weight of the cut material (especially the farther away the support is from the cut) will lever your mounting hardware until it is sloppy. This is generally why the outfeed arms are part of a base system and not hung from the back stop, which we count on for precision. The obvious alternative is a simple roller stand, less that $20 as Harbor Freight, and is also mobile so it can be used as an infeed support for cutting long sticks of material into small bits. That Fastcap crown fence is awesome though... I might have to look into that thing.
I agree about the tracks. Far more durable for sure, but I wanted to present a lower-cost option for people who already own the Matchfit stuff (essentially free). Good observation on the outfeed support also. It never even occurred to me when I did the first video because I already have it on my stand but as I learned from the comments in the first video, there are many who don’t use a dedicated stand. I thought the ruler trick was brilliant though, and that one never even crossed my mind until I got the photo I showed.
I was thinking that just adding a leg to the end of the long fence would take care of that problem. Just make a piece a few inches longer than the height of your miter saw, add a slot to one end to allow for height adjustment if you use it on uneven ground, and attach it to the t-track/dovetail slot at the end of the fence. When not it use it should all fold together nicely for compact storage.
Great video and good ideas. I may be in the minority, but I would prefer a flip stop to hard stop. I realize there can be deflection but just my preference.
I love FastCap products, but their Crown Stop Fence has a major design flaw. It was designed strictly for DeWalt 12” miter saws. Not all of us are fans of the yellow & black.
Don't know that I'd call that a "flaw." The DeWalt is the biggest-selling 12" miter saw out there among trim and finish carpenters, so it makes sense for them to support that one first. I am told they plan to make it for other saws soon, but no word as to which one(s).
Damn I love that crown fence… I would always just mark my fence with pencil and hold the crown to my line. And looking at the price I’m going to have to make my own or keep using my old pencil method lol (sucks being a very broke carpenter in 2024 hahaha :/). I think I can make my own fence very similar just out of scraps though. I haven’t ran crown in a while but a few years ago all I did was crown and stair work on $20 million dollar mansions outside of the Twin Cities.
If you're going to use MDF and route out a dovetail, I suggest making a couple quick passes down the table saw first to remove some material from the middle of where the dovetail will be. It will be much easier and safer to route out then.
Put a magnet in your adjustable stop and get a sacrificial feeler gauge. Then u can use the feelers on the magnet to make small adjustments without fiddleing with the adjustable stop screw. cheers!
3D printer and design/print the brackets. By rounding the edges, clumsy buckets like me won’t scratch and bleed from the L brackets. Still use the L brackets for strength inserting the 3D part flush with the L bracket. :P NEw to your channel, instant fan. I used to be a Finish Carpenter.
