An over head conveyor could be fed by an auger to move grain from 1 bay to another and it wont be worn as an auger is by its use. This could also be used to put contract grain via a gravity drop chute directly into a customers wagon so there is no double handling? Great video btw its good to see you growing as a great farm team.
When you pour the lower area for the drier cast a sump in the bottom about the size of a 20 little drum for a submersible pump with a float switch for to keep it empty of water out of season if you don’t have a drain. We have one in each of the continuous flow driers
Great video. Glad the time, effort & skills both you and Liv put into making this content amounts to something like the budget for this grain shed project… it’s hard earned. Best of luck doing the job, make safety a priority as unfortunately there are a lot of ways to get injured or worse handling and erecting steel as well as sheeting etc. Don’t be shy about putting on a fall arrest harness and a hard hat. Keep up the good work.
Evening Phil Wonderful plan and the best of luck with it. Time saving is a myth !!! But if it improves the day to day workings of the farm and family, then yes. Remember, improving efficiency means improving quality of life !!!! All the best for Northern Italy
Best of luck with your plans on the shed hope weather is in your favour, hard to beat a bit of comfort, not alone will you be saving 14 days but all the diseal you will save aswell from tractors and telly handler running the roads to the other shed👍
Great work Philip progress is afoot, just a word on utube paying for the shed, you should remind viewers to check that they are still subscribed to your channel, utube have a sneaky habit of unsubcribing viewers from favourite channels so its worth mentioning to viewers as I imagine it has some bearing on how much you earn 🤔
Why not do concrete footing and plate the bottom off the beams blot it down and that would leave u around 23to 24 foot plenty off room if u need bigger trailers or lorry etc in philp
Put all your walls in. if your doing it do them all it's only expensive the day you do it. Be forgotten about soon after. Itl never happen if you don't. Those timber studs will fall soon as grain hits them
You could shutter the outer walls 18” and bolt shorter posts on top of it. This will sort the vermin issue and give you a strong wall to push the grain against. A lot of silo pits are done this way now.
Could you not leave the back wall next the pit out altogether of the old shed straight back through to the new shed, put a new wall at the end off that out in the new yard, put you grain dryer where you have it but load it from the side futherest out in the yard. And blow you grain back
Not sure with your drier if the top unloader spout is fixed or can be swung round. If it can be swung round leave it so you can swing it towards your shed to dump grain into shed or else swung around to the opposite side to dump direct into a trailer that way if you’ve a different crop or stuff for someone else you don’t need to empty where it unloads in the shed
Check out Olly Bloggs he has a similar set up that you are building with floor unload and then discharge system for grain drying. But necessity is the mother of invention, if a farmer can do it, we would back you in any race! Happy farming and happy days
Sounds like a great plan . Was at the sun flowers today was hoping to have met ya but ya we’re on feeding duty’s good set up well worth the trip from Castlebar
@@georgedoorley5628 I'm kidding. But he did mean tramlines. He said he had a shed make from narrow guage railway lines and a shed from tramlines and he didn't know which was which. I presume that tramlines would have been the tracks that they ran the trams on it Dublin City many years ago.
When you get the steel and are ready to start setting up for welding, put the steel columns and beams on trestles to make the easy to turn over when welding, you MUST and without fail remove the mill scale off the columns, beams and all plates, web stiffeners and gussets. It is essential to do that for structural steel to reduce contamination of the weld that might lead to cracked welds and or failure. Make sure, you use 1mm or 1.2mm wire in your welder and that you follow the structural engineers Welding Procedure Specification (WPS) where supplied. Grind out any porosity or faulty welds, don't weld on wet or damp steel or in rainy conditions because of the risk of hydrogen entrapment and future cracking and failure. Use a 80/20 Argon CO2 mix gas or 75/25 depending on maximum thickness of the steels. DO NOT USE 100% Argon because the welds will fail due to poor penetration and bead formation. Read up on welding codes and TEST your welding ability before you start welding. Ensure the supply of electricity is excellent and ideally 3phase. Set the welder up on test plates before welding the actual steels so that you get right settings. You should consider getting the steel supplier to drill all holes for you, it can work out much cheaper and lead to less hassle and time. If you do drill your own holes, use annular cutters and a quality oil emulsion coolant and not a drill bit. A TCT hole saw is a great option, they can cut 100+ holes each if cooled and lubricated.
