Needs to be mentioned that when using this memory saver and you unhook the + and - from the cars battery you still have to be careful as the + connector is still live and would shorten up when getting in contact with any grounded metal.
and presumably if you touch the terminals together on the crocodile clips on the memory saver, it's also still live so could blow a fuse on the OBD connector
Years ago i worked in a motor factor and we used to connect a small motorcycle battery to the leads while disconnecting the main battery so the radio, alarm and any other electronic devices never lost power. Simple solution!
I recently also purchased a Bosch battery from Tayna Batteries. I was very impressed with speed of delivery, price, packing, and the battery itself. I will certainly use them in future. Interesting video, thanks.😀🇬🇧
Same here. As soon as he started fitting it I thought hang on, wheres the battery insulation cover?? My Astra has a battery cover. Useful in cold weather. Helps the battery to hold charge.
It's a sleeve to keep heat in the battery and a ok bit of kit but just leave the car running when you change the battery and the radio codes will stay in and all the stations will be saved as well just rap a rag around the terminals so they dont touch
I have used this method for years. In my case, I have bought a tiny 12 V, 9Ah AGM battery for about $20, the one that you would use in an UPS and toghether with the OBD tool, I store them in a small toolbox that I can take with me wherever I like, it's so portable. I recharge that small battery every couple of months. It's powerfull enough to power the car for days. It is true that I haven't thought of this method all by myself, I saw it being used at a local battery change shop and it stuck with me until I made one for myself. I order that OBD tool from Ebay for another $20 or so.
When I changed my battery on my Passat the code was missing on my book too, all you need is the serial number from the radio, the vin number and a V5 and Skoda will give you the code. That’s what I was led to believe anyway. On that note, that OBD saver is an amazing tool!
Well Done and as you did, always its the negative is the first lead to take off and the last one you connect, the amount of people who don't know that (unless very unlikely its a positive earth car a persons working on (pre 1962))
Thank you James. I’d have to say I wish for more informative videos on the mk2 Fabia (HB - TSI) but appreciate this isn’t a tailored channel. You’ve taught me so much so thank you.
Bought a fabia 1.4tdi in December last year and found all your gearbox vids very interesting and now coming through with the goods again saving me a world of pain as I need to change the battery 😂
What we do in work about the radio codes is to remove the battery while car is running and put the new one in keeps the radio codes and don’t worry car will not die for a good while
23 years of working in the Motor Trade I never needed a code saver for a Skoda? I have bought 2nd hand original skoda head units to replace aftermarket ones and still never needed a code. I know that some cars do need a saver plugged in before anyone says it including some other old VAG cars but never a Skoda. Good video all the same to make people aware and no harm using a saver anyway.
Modern car radios only need the code to start ups after a battery change or full loss of power, they very rarely lose the stored settings/radio stations either, unless left without power for 24/48 hrs, they have capacitors to store the minute power needed to keep the settings etc.
Just changed the battery in my R55 Mini (clubman). Has factory radio/satnav. Read through the manuals and the changing of it was not as straightforward as you would think! The battery needed to be registered to the car!! Had to buy a tool to register it,. It was still cheaper than taking to the garage and now I have another tool.... anyway the radio code is stored on the ECU (or alike) and after driving the BMW, Mini says that wait at least 15 minutes after driving so the car learns all stored data which includes the code for the radio. All cars are different just thought it was mentioning. Like the Chanel and content. Thanks.
shows that its working. if every car made today got rid of it, people would nab these modern complicated head units and sell em for £500 a pop. look at the current cat converter thefts. did not think of tha did ya
@@CutLeRoc Some makes and models you can find a work around on youtube . The other way to do this battery swap is to just have a slave battery , a couple of leads with croc clips , hook the slave to the car leads before disconcerting the faulty battery . Just need to be a bit careful that you do not pull any leads off or short anything but you can potentially change the batter in the car park outside a motor factors . The terminals on a lot of cars have points where you can bolt on extra accessory leads , use those and its easy , no need for the ''tool''
@@MrTarmonbarry I've actually got an older version of this by draper but mine plugs into the cigarette lighter and uses a 9v battery. Only used it once many years ago on a Scorpio Cosworth I once had.
Did you do the ecu battery adaptation using your scan tool afterwards? Another great video, keep them coming. I enjoyed watching your toolbox tour ones again while you tube sesrching
That is handy. seen that in motor factors and didn't know what it was for but that's is handy ill get one and its there if I ever need to disconnect battery off some other car with no radio code.
I see the Value Analysis boys at VAG production design have been busy with the battery compartment - no hinged battery cover on the battery on the 2012 model - not much protection for the heavy duty link fuses. My 2003 saloon has a lovely cover with the link fuses integral, to keep it nice and warm in winter and to protect the link fuses from "Freeze-thaw" effect. So, lots of lovely "early onset" failure jobs created for the recovery and breakdown boys when the link on the starter motor breaks (Usually the first to go). Amazing how manufacturers, as they go futher into each models production run find new ways of economising on the design and saving even more oennies to contribute to VAGs bulging coffers. Would the other alternative to buying the £20 OBD device to record the radio code, be to borrow a VCDS cable and a laptop or tablet set-up with VCDS software. Try the Briskoda website. Its also useful to have a VCDS or OBD computer interface available, as you can then cancel any error codes that pop-up in the EMU/ECU as a result of either the battery depleting and outputing low voltage or/and the actual act of removing and replacing the battery. Be assured these error codes do arise and they will, if left unaddressed effect some aspect of the cars operation. As a result of 2 months lack of use due to lockdown, my Fabia's battery went flat. VCDS scan prior to battery removal, showed no error codes other than one oermanent one for the aircon which has been out of use for a long time. On re-installing the battery after a re-charge, the car was taken for a run and found to be over-fuelling at high revs (Accelerating uphill, foot-off) When subsequently scanned on VCDS, an "Excess Flow" fault was reported in the EGR and additionally in both door control modules. These fault codes were subsequently cancelled using VCDS - its worth noting that both of these faullts hadn't been reported before this series of events. After another run, a subsequent VCDS scan showed the error codes didn't reoccur. It is to be oresumed that just the low to non-existent voltage of a discharged battery or/and the electrical effects caused by its removal and replacement by a fully charged item were sufficient to corrupt the "Variables" section of the EMU memory. That said, the door card modules (Which hold the ekectronic control gear for the electric windows and central locking outposts)and EGR, which both include switch connections always get a bit sticky after a period of disuse, or in the case if the electric window switches, this can iccur if moisture seeps in.
original radio/navi is paired with car. so if you have disconnected battery, the first thing after reconnect ist to turn the key. then the radio will scan if it is still in the original car and decodes itself.
Hang-on. maybe I'm being a bit harsh on VAG. I think I can see one design improvement that VAG appear to have made to the bonnet scuttle area ( Immediately, underneath the wipers/windscreen). They've extended the width of the plastic gutter to cover what, on my model are the drain holes into the engine compartment. The design of the scuttle and drain holes on my 2003 model are open to the elements and collect all msnner of leaves and crud, which, if not cleared in a timely way, form a lovely agricultural tilth in the oainted scuttle bottom. A right breeding ground for corrosion.
You didn't mention that usually sealed batteries have a vent hole which is normally blanked for transportation and therefore should be removed prior to fitting. Seems a good piece of kit though and saves messing around with jump leads etc.
As his is power the car from another battery I think it won’t make a lot of difference which terminal you removed because if he was to short the positive to the chassis he will blow his ECU up from the other battery current so it’s a very scary procedure having the car electric systems powered in that way I think I’d rather find the radio code out and have it all shut down properly and safely myself
@@neilmurphy845 well my VW caddy which essentially had the same radio didn’t require a code it was only the days of the fords and the Vauxhalls had radio codes now the radios are built-in to the dash they don’t think they bother with security codes anymore?
@@PaulsRoadshow don’t think these have codes no... well technically they do but only needed if units are swapped from one car to another... still a good video and a good thing to have...stops them moaning about losing the clock time, stored radio stations etc...
Newer radios are tied to the vin of the car, it will ask for a code until you turn on the ignition for the first time after changing battery. Once immobilizer is disabled, the radio will unlock.
Good video, I've got a job and a half to do on my volvo s60 p2 headlamp bulbs, I'm replacing them with h7 led lights but bumper off job by the looks of things worst case scenario. Wish me luck guys, I'm going to give long nose pliers, inspection mirror and extendable magnet first
Cant remember if the S60 P2 is one of them but a lot of the Volvo's of that generation you can just pull up some metal rods and the headlight can be pulled out
@@JamieS420 one side in 😂. What a pig I've been defeated by the weather just one side to do. I've also got to work out which way the cob leds should face to the side or up and down
@@chucky2316 it's a guaranteed, as soon as you start doing something, the heavens open 🤦♂️ most bulbs have a tab that means they will only locate 1 way so if you can still rotate the bulb or it feels like its sitting at an angle, it's not in correctly. Good luck 👍😉
Hi I have only recently discovered your channel,Great Stuff man!! Just a word about Tayna batteries they come in at a good price. The issue is if you have a problem they wont replace it. I bought one with a five year guarantee it failed after nine months I sent photos, e mails, videos nothing worked. They want you to send it back so that they can test it and come up with a excuse not to replace it. It defeats the object I now buy locally if it fails just take it back. Hope your ok you've not posted for a while. Thanks Mike
these are a good little tool, I bought one recently [ebay, think it was a fiver] to change the battery on our Pug308, I recently had to change battery on my Grande Punto as well and I lost all the menu settings, was a right faff to set it all back up, didnt need a radio code though and strangely on that it kept it stations in memory. I seem to have a box full of various OBD2 things.
Useful tool but I normally just hook some jump leads up to another car if I need to. I was under the impression that most cars are coded to the body computer so issues like this arise if you swap the radio to another car. I could be wrong, it has been known 😄 Also, when a car has a decent battery box, I put the receipt in a large self seal bag and keep it underneath the battery, not lost one yet but the battery always dies after the guarantee.
Got to repeat what a number of other people have said. Disconnect the battery - Negative first, then the positive. Installing - Positive first, then the negative (negative earth vehicles). Again as others have stated, with the OBD code saver connected, the positive battery clamp will be 'live', so will need to be isolated from any contact with the body or engine.
VAG batteries do tend to be pretty good from factory. My Golf's original battery lasted for 11 years. And yes that does look like an original battery to me. Both my golf and my dad's audi had the same type of battery from the factory.
Changed my kangoo maxi battery in November it was locked out thankfully code was in hand book putting in said code that was a different matter good channel for tips and advice 👍
these radio don't have radio code most car don't these day they get program with the car vin number and the radio request the vin from the body computer to make sure the vin matches if the vin matches then the radio will work if you took the radio out from that car and put it in a different car it will lock out or beep and it would need programing to the new car
Good to know, but I would say that RAC changed battery on daughter's Focus, (2002!), and she had to find the radio code. It was original radio - but older car, of course.
Simple solution connect a booster pack to the battery terminals before you fully remove them from the dead battery and then fit replacement battery in place. ..job done.
You could buy a smart charger for car battery, almost same price and it has built in option for supporting all vehicle electronics when changing battery. Anyway, another interesting video..
Only think you forgot to mention is that the car live battery terminal remains live when the obd2 memory saver is connected and you have to ensure that the terminal does not touch any metal part of the car chassis
My E70 X5 battery failed, it had been replaced by the previous owner at a well known high-street garage ahem... "SwiftFit" and they didn't code it to the car which eventually killed it. I found out that new batteries need to be coded to the car which was news to me. I miss the good old days of a 5 minute battery swap.
2011 car. Probably original as my 61 plate fabia 1.2tsi was on a similar mileage and on the original battery. Just sold the car. Wish I hadn't. Great little cars.
Save your money. Connect a spare battery to your starter motor live and to a good ground, check the continuity with a multi meter, then change your battery.
No need to buy a special tool to plug into OBD port. Just connect any 12v supply to the car at any convenient spot - many cars have posts for this. And put the battery sleeve back on. And code the battery to the ECU if required (probably not on this vehicle but the OEM battery did have the code on it so maybe it is necessary) If a new battery is not coded to the ECU it will die very very quickly.
If it's factory stereo, yes it's a good idea to have the code BUT when i had my polo, if you disconnect the battery and reconnect, it will ask for the code but you can just turn igntion on and shut and open the drivers door and it will start working again
If it's all factory. The radio should keep the code stored in it's memory so when it's switched back on, everything should talk to each other and switch on. Mind you, I'm sure it doesn't always work, but I've never had an issue.
I have a 2013 Fabia and never had a jacket from new. Also my battery has died and been changed but never had to do this luckily enough hence why I'm watching this as I'm curious about it.
