Thoughts on choice of pleating; 'to the stripe' or 'to the sett'

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There are two choices when the time comes to arrange the pleats on your kilt - 'to the sett' or 'to the stripe'.
(there's a third choice: 'Total Bloody Chaos' - in which the cloth is pleated without reference to the tartan pattern, which I'm informed was how it was often done before the 1890s - but I've never heard of it being done in modern times)
I believe that you the client should have the maximum possible input as to how your kilt should look.
"To the sett' is straightforward, but if you choose to pleat it 'to the stripe' - which stripe shall we choose?
It seems that other kiltmakers will elect to choose for you - they'll pick the most-prominent stripe and pleat the kilt to that.

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1 окт 2024

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Комментарии : 27

@ianduncan7189 2 года назад

superb explanation on pleating styles and options...many thanks....

@dukethomas95 Год назад

Mr MacDonald. I love your videos and have learned so much. I can imagine you are so busy so I won't even bother you to make my kilt. I'll just admire your work from afar. Thank you for what you do and how you share your passion.

@BeautifuLakesStreamsBiologists 2 года назад

This video is the definition of the word bespoke! Thank you for your passion in your craft.

@williameshea 5 лет назад

That's very interesting, I'd never realized there would be different ways to pleat to the stripe. Thanks for all your work on these videos.

@michaelcrenshaw9199 5 лет назад

Quite informative, I had no idea there are so many options. I'm looking forward to seeing how the US Army tartan on order will lay out when pleated to the stripe.

@tomkenney5365 5 лет назад

Awesome! I never thought about pleating to different stripes (because no one goes into the detail you do, maybe). I always thought pleating to the sett looked better, except for military/band use, but this really changes my thoughts on stripe pleating. Thanks for your videos.

@robertmacdonaldbespokekilt3063 5 лет назад

One factor I didn't mention (because a) I do these in one take without notes and b) I'm never sure how much memory the camera has left) is that some setts are so very large that 'pleating to the stripe' is pretty much the only option. I'll do a follow-up video to show why a kilt 'pleated to the sett' will usually/always have fewer (and therefore 'wider') pleats than a kilt of the same tartan which is pleated to the stripe.

@RidseardMhicCoinnich 5 лет назад

As a civilian of course you have the choice of stripe or sett. Not so in the British Army, you will find they are all pleated to a stripe. This kilt maker go’s one step further and discusses with his customers the various combinations with a tartan. A nice personal touch.

@45calibermedic 5 лет назад

Wow, thank you. It makes a lot of sense to consider the different ways that you can go about pleating. I'm sure that opinions vary a little as to what style of pleating makers use for this or that tartan, and the characteristics of the type of stripe they generally choose to pleat to, but you've generously taken the time to show us the fundamentals of it. Of course, this sort of thing must jump out at you as soon as you get into pleating any tartan, but for an outsider it may not be so obvious.

@ichabod0391 4 года назад

What would you recommend for a Black Watch tartan kilt? Pleat to the sett or stripe?

@robertmacdonaldbespokekilt3063 4 года назад

My personal preference is 'to the stripe' as it results in a greater number of pleats than 'to the sett' and has a stronger 'vertical' element - which is 'more slimming'! ...

@ichabod0391 4 года назад

@@robertmacdonaldbespokekilt3063 Thank you Iian. What stripe would you recommend?

@robertmacdonaldbespokekilt3063 4 года назад

@@ichabod0391 this is strictly a matter of 'my personal taste', mind - but if it was the really, really dark military cloth (which is so dark that you can only see the sett in bright daylight) I'd pleat it to the black stripe centred on the green a la the Argyll and Sutherland Highlanders. If it were the lighter-palette 18 oz cloth I might try another stripe...

@ichabod0391 4 года назад

@@robertmacdonaldbespokekilt3063 I appreciate your advice. I'm not looking at the military cloth, I light the lighter cloth. Thank you. Keep up the great informative videos.

@adamguthrie8522 5 лет назад

I don't think that kilt is the Davidson tartan of the 48th. It looks to me like Murray of Atholl, seen in kilts of the Transvaal Scottish of South Africa.

@robertmacdonaldbespokekilt3063 5 лет назад

Ah, but it IS - I have provenance from the son of the officer for whom it was made!

@captaintimcurry1713 4 года назад

That is awesome! I thought pleating to the stripe was just whatever the kilt maker decides is the right stripe to pleat to. How expensive would it be to weave a custom tartan?

@robertmacdonaldbespokekilt3063 4 года назад

That depends on how you define 'custom': do you want an extant tartan that the other mills don't offer as a stock item, do you wish to 'difference' an existing tartan by changing the pattern and/or colours, or do you want an entirely new design?

@captaintimcurry1713 4 года назад

@@robertmacdonaldbespokekilt3063 It's my newly registered family tartan. The design is officially registered with the Tartan Registry in Scotland but it's never been woven before, so yes, it's essentially a new design

@robertmacdonaldbespokekilt3063 4 года назад

@@captaintimcurry1713 I'll ask the mill - as it is a registered tartan I think that we'd not be charged any extra fee above the usual cost.

@captaintimcurry1713 4 года назад

@@robertmacdonaldbespokekilt3063 thank you!

@pipsheppard6747 4 года назад

A superior and informative video! Thanks for the detailed explanation.

@robertmacdonaldbespokekilt3063 4 года назад

Thank you - that's very kind of you to say. I wonder why I seem to be the ONLY kiltmaker in the world who offers or at least advertises this level of service to the client: custom-woven cloth - including changes in colour and design, maximum opportunity of choice. It's not any more difficult and it requires no more effort - it's as though the others in the Trade (you'll notice that I didn't refer to them as 'the competition' lol) have never heard of Saville Row...

@pipsheppard6747 4 года назад

@@robertmacdonaldbespokekilt3063 Some folks like to hold their cards close to their chests. However, your approach to sharing your kilt-making tips and knowledge only raise the standard for quality, and I for one appreciate that. I'm not a kilt maker, but I do wear them, and the things you share help me to understand not only how they are made, but even how best to measure and don them. Keep those videos coming!

@robertmacdonaldbespokekilt3063 4 года назад

@@pipsheppard6747 Funny you should mention that - I was recently interviewed about Highland tailoring and when I immediately and comprehensively answered a particular question about my methods

@robertmacdonaldbespokekilt3063 4 года назад

...the interviewer gasped (well, sort of) "THANK you! No-one else would answer that, they said it was a trade secret!" And I was " 'like WTF'? Seriously? I'll open your work, learn your 'trade secret' and then troll you to death for being an insecure numpty tosser!" It was then that I decided to make all of my methods and tricks 'open source' as a way of blowing a wet raspberry at those insecure nameless 'kiltmakers'... My OTHER (and less-ignoble) aims are to help others in the Trade and to create consumers who are sufficiently educated to make proper and informed decisions!